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Glenn-UK

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Posts posted by Glenn-UK

  1. 006 - More Fairing, Planking Issue and Deck Items

    As @James H pointed out I had not faired the outer stern frames. This has now been done. The bulwarks are still drying after being soaked to remove the residual wood glue, so they are only clamped on the hull in the pictures below.

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    I then decided to check how the first plank would look. For the most part I am really happy with the how this plank will lay. However, I did detect an area where there is a gap as can be seen in the next photo. As there is no gap between the bulwarks and bulkheads this is probably due to me over fairing some of the bulkheads. It is not a major issue as I will just add some filler shims so, when fitted, the plank will be at the same level as the bulwarks.

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    I then thought it would be fun to test fit the some of the deck items. Some of these deck items require some PE parts to be added. The sheet is currently in the paint shop where I am waiting for the black paint (sprayed on) to dry

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  2. 2 hours ago, James H said:

    Hi Glenn,

     

    Those sides needed fairing in far more before you added the bulwarks. Sanding needs to be done to fair the MDF into the deck edge at the rear, and that will also bevel those stern timbers, possibly by half. 

     

    Many thanks James

    Both rear bulwarks are removed so I can fair the outer stern frames as they should be done.

    Glenn

  3. 005 - Bulwarks, inner stern counter and more deck items

    The bulwarks had been left for 24 hours to fully dry out, clamped to the hull. With the clamps removed they had retained the required bend.

     

    Taking each bulwark in turn, the position of the bulkheads were marked and a small 0.5mm hole drilled for the brass pins. Glue was then applied to the bulkheads below the deck and along the deck edge and the bulwarks were then pinned in place. I was very happy with the end result.

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    Once the glued had cured the inner stern counter was glued into place. So far so good, what could possibly go wrong.

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    It was then I then noted the left-hand rear bulwark was a bit floppy at the stern end. On closer inspection I realised the outer left side stern counter had snapped at the point shown in the photo below. I think the damaged happened when the inner stern counter was clamped in place and was probably not sitting fully on the stern frame even though I thought I had checked that. In the photo below the damaged part has been glued back in place and you will not that I am using the transom rail to help ensure in is set in the right position

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    Thankfully I was able to release the left-hand rear bulwark without too much effort and without damage. As can be seen in the photo below there is sone glue deposits and traces of the outer stern frame on the bulwark which I will need to remove.

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    To remove the glue deposits the bulwark was soaked in hot water for 30 mins which did the trick. The part was then clamped back in place and will now be left to fully dry out (again).

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    I will have to take care when fitting the part with regards to the inner stern counter. As can be seen in the photo below there is slight positional problem which needs to be avoided when the part is glued in place.

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    I have now made the capstan assembly. As can be seen in the photo below the top red section is not fully seated (or glued) on the lower section at the moment. The instructions did indicate that the slot for part PE-45 (a small upright post) was missing from part PE-41 (top section). It suggested cutting off the unexposed length of PE-45 and glue directly to the small, raised position on PE-45. I opted to modify part PE-45 by adding the missing slot. The upper red section would have looked much so much better with an air brush paint job rather than a paint brush. Another tool to add to my wish list.

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    The remaining green parts have also been hand painted.

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  4. 004 - Bulwarks and Priming

    The keel, stem and stern posts have now been glued in place. As you would expect with a Vanguard Models kit everything fitted together without any problems.

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    As I was checking the bulkheads during the final fairing process I added some pencil marks, as can be seen on the photo below, to indicate where the planks will lay.

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    The 4 bulwark parts were soaked in hot water for 30 mins before they were clamped in place. These will be left clamped for at least 12 hours to ensure the strips have fully dried out.

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    Whilst waiting for the bulwarks to dry I have taken the PE sheet, which had been cleaned with acetone and soapy water, and I applied a coat of primer. Once the primer is dry, I can apply the required colour to each part.

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    There were a few a more parts to clean and prime. In the photo below they are in a bath of acetone and the soapy water bath can also be seen in the photo. I tend to soak the parts in the soapy water first for around 10 mins before using a toothbrush to gently on the parts. I then transfer the parts to the acetone and repeat the toothbrush cleaning process after about 10 mins. The parts will go through another soapy water and acetone bath treatment before being washed in clean water and dried.

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    I made a simple jig to hold the parts and then applied a coat of primer. I haven't primed the chain pipe as the resin part supplied is black and I am undecided if I will leave as is or if I will paint green, as shown in the manual.

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    There is not a lot more I can do at the moment. I could start making the masts, bowsprit, etc. but I think I will leave that for another time.

  5. 003 - Deck Items

    With the inner stern counter immersed in hot water for 30 mins I faired the stern frames. Once I was happy with the stern frame fairing the inner stern counter was clamped in place. This will be left clamped to allow the inner stern counter to fully dry out.

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    I noted in the build manual that the lower from end tabs of the front bulwarks required a bevel so the part will sit flush with the side of the hull bulkheads.

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    As I waited for the inner stern counter to dry, I decided to build some of the deck items. I started with the fish hatches. It is important to remove the laser char from the visible edges when releasing parts from the sheets.

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    When assembling the ladder, once the laser char had been removed, I have found it best to start by gluing two rungs to one side. This will be left for a few minutes to allow the glue to grip.

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    After a few minutes the other side of the ladder was glued in place. This assembly will be left for a few minutes to allow the glue to grip

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    It is then a simple task to insert the remaining rungs to complete the ladder assembly

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    The next item to build was the companionway. This was a simple item to build. I am pleased that the roof door slides smoothly in the slots.  I just need to add the front doors to complete the assembly. I have not added these doors as they required two PE hinges. I have started to prepare the PE parts. The PE sheet has been through a through cleansing process using a mixture soaking the sheet in hot soapy water and acetone.

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  6. 002 - Hull Construction Part 2

    I have made a bit more progress. I had just coated a diluted titebond solution to the bulkhead joints so as I was waiting for the glue to cure, I decided to check some of the deck items. I started with the main sheet housing which slots into the deck. Once I had removed the laser char from the visible edges, I did a test fit with the deck. As can be seen it was a perfect fit.

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    As I started to assemble the parts I used a straight edge to check and set the correct alignment.

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    The basic main sheet housing assembly is now complete. I will add the cleat, block and eyebolt later on as the assembly still requires a bit of tidy up work

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    Once the bulkhead joints glue had fully cured, I went ahead and fitted the deck. I took my time as the deck was carefully positioned and I ensured it was fully engaged with the all the bulkhead securing slots. Once I was happy the underside joints were coated with a diluted titebond solution.

    004.thumb.JPG.64a29f017accdc23d08e1ab083c36817.JPGWith the deck glued in place it was time to fair the bulkheads. I used a length of planking material to check the fairing. As can be seen in the photo below the test plank is a nice fit except in a couple of places so a bit more work is required.

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    I am now happy with how the plank lays.

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    When considering how the inner stern counter should be fitted, I have noted the bottom edges of the various stern frames will need fairing for a smooth curved fit.

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    I have also checked the fit of the stern, keel and stem patterns, dry fit only so far.

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    I have also dry fitted the front and rear bulwarks, taking care to use the line on the bulwarks to align with the deck.010.thumb.JPG.b3fe4d7599fa730f4a9fc9b43bf5f8d7.JPG011.thumb.JPG.1f1d09640a6b6b4d74340dd0990c37f3.JPG

  7. 001 - Hull Construction Part 1

    There is not going to be much of a description in this post as I have simply been following the build manual instructions verbatim.

     

    With the manual on the workbench along with the first MDF sheet I am now ready to make a start.

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    Using my rotary tool, the initial fairing of the first 5 bulkheads to the guideline was carried out. When I started on bulkhead 5, I had a senior moment started to apply a reverse camphor. I marked out the required sanding line on the other side of bulkhead 5 and carried on. Not a great start and I hope it is not a bad omen.

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    Next the camphor's were added the last three bulkheads. You will note, both on the previous photo and the photo below, that I have added some pencil marks on the bulkheads and keel. These marks indicate the bottom the locating slots. When the pencil marks are aligned, I know the parts are fully engaged.

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    Stage 1 completed

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    Next up was camphor and add the filler pieces. I need to review some other build logs to check the bow filler pieces camphor's along the keel edge with the bulkheads. There is plenty of material to sand in order to get a smooth line, or I can fill the gaps with some offcuts.

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    With all the bulkheads and filler pieces in place it was time to add the deck. Apart from the filler pieces, which were glued in place (as per the instructions), everything is still a dry fit.

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    Bulkheads 12, 10, 7 and 4 require a cross piece to be glued in place. With the pieces in place, I used some clamps to hold the parts in place as the glue gripped.

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    The two longitudinal hull brace patterns were slotted into place followed by the 2 sets of stern frames (inner, middle and outer).

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    With everything looking good I mixed up a diluted titebond solution and brushed it in between all the joints. The hull will now be left overnight to fully cure before I move on to the next build phase.

     

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