Glenn-UK

017 - Smoothing and Filling The Hull

After the initial sanding process, using 120 and the 320 grit sandpaper the hull looked and felt smooth. I then applied a thin coat of white paint. As can be seen in the following three photo's the paint really helps to highlight all the problems.

Once the paint had fully dried, I applied a filler solution to all the gaps and dips. The filler solution used was diluted Roneal natural wood filler mixed with an equal measure of titebond original. Once the mixture had hardened the hull was sanding smooth removing all the excess paint and filler. Another coat of white paint was then applied. As can be seen in the final two photos below the painted section of the hull looks much better. It is still not perfect. Once the paint has had time to dry more filler will be applied as necessary and the hull will be sanded smooth again and then repainted. This is a slow painstaking process, and it can take a few sanding and painting steps to complete the job. It is well worth the time and effort required to get a nice smooth hull.

50 minutes ago, Bowline said:

Great great work - you ship builders are smarter than I, -- wish I'd taken this amount of care - never having done this before I just plowed on and ended up with a waterline that I wasn't happy with, and the weakest  part of my build

Many thanks. I'm no smarter, I just try to learn from all my previous builds and from studying other people's build logs.

9 minutes ago, Craigie65 said:

Yip, this took me quite a while too. I tried to use a waterline marker, but found it too difficult under the counter.  In the end I used the Mk 1 eyeball to run the masking tape before spraying the anti fouling coat.  Decided that I was not going to have a boot top on this one.

I have two waterline marker tools, an Amati one and one I bought from Vanguard Models. I prefer the Vanguard Models tool. It can be tricky to use and mark under the stern counter. However once the tape has been added I find it easy to check the alignment with the waterline marker tool.

A good start

14 hours ago, Craigie65 said:

Looking good, but be careful, the plans are not 1:1.  They are about 85%.. which reading properly you are aware of! Sorry 

Many thanks. I had noted the plans were not 1:1 scale (as you noted) and I took that into account.

19 hours ago, Bowline said:

Ah - I wondered about that mark and what it was for in my build. At first I also thought it was the waterline but also discounted that as it being too low, but I bet your explanation re. positioning the decals is right!! An "Erycina" mystery.

It will be the marker for the start of the decals so I think the "Erycina" mystery has now been solved.😀

016 - Marking the Waterline

I have jumped forward a bit with the build sequence as I wanted to paint the hull white below the waterline. This will highlight all the bumps and dips. I can then sort out all the defects prior to adding the deck pattern and painting the outer bulwark patterns.

Adding the waterline should be a simple task to complete. Unsurprisingly this turned out to be more time consuming than I expected. This is because I over complicated this simple task by trying to be too clever. I have detailed what I did below.

I started measuring, from the plan sheet, some points of reference to help with ensuring the waterline was correctly drawn. I transferred these measured reference points to the actual hull, using the scaling factor of 0.85. With all the point added and double checked I added a length of masking tape, joining the dots up from stem post to stern post. I then used my waterline marker tool to check the alignment of the bottom edge of the tape. The bottom edge of the tape did not track the same path indicated by the waterline marker tool. With the tape adjusted to following the same path indicated by the waterline marker tool I noted some of my reference points were visible, as can be seen in the following photo, The measured 2nd dot can be seen below the tape (blue arrow added). 

With the tape adjusted and checked once again with the marker tool the waterline position seems to be set.

When I then looked at the stern post area there is clearly a major issue with the position of the waterline. The bottom edge of tape should be at the end of the counter pattern, The problem can be seen on the photo below, the bottom edge of the tape should be at the left-hand side of the blue line.

I removed the tape and redrew the waterline, this time ensuring the start point was at the correct point at the stern post end. New masking tape was added, and I then double checked the bottom edge of the tape followed the path indicated by the waterline marker tool which it did. I am now happy with the position of the waterline.

With the waterline marked on both sides the hull I used a steel rule to firmly press the tape edge into the hull. I then applied a coat of diluted titebond to the edge to seal the join and to further reduce the possibly of paint leakage under the tape The hull has now been masked and is ready for a light coat of white paint. I am going to wait for a couple of hours before adding the paint to give time for the diluted titebond to cure.

015 - Waterline Thoughts

I thought I would add the waterline to the hull next. With the hull positioned in the stand with the aft stand peg securely located in the slot on the keel I was initially concerned that the keel was not level with the stand, as can be seen on the photo below.

I noted the keel angle was correct when I checked the angle of the waterline with the keel on the plan sheet, as can be seen below.

I then noted there was a mark on the stem post, as can be seen on the photo below.

My first thought was this would indicate the waterline position. I soon discounted that as it lower than where I would expect the waterline to be. I confirmed this by scaling the waterline position off the plan sheet (using an 0.85 scaling factor) to get an idea of where the waterline would be on the stem post. I concluded the mark on the stem post would indicate the start of the waterline load marking decals.

24 minutes ago, James H said:

Looking real nice.

 

No matter how perfect we think we have the hull, paint always shows it isn't! I've never, ever been that lucky.

Many thanks, painting the hull is great for showing up the imperfections.

014 - Completion of Second Planking

I have now completed the second planking of the left-hand side. The hull has also been sanded smooth, starting with 120 grit sandpaper and finished with 320 grit sandpaper. Although the hull looks and feels smooth, I am sure that when I apply a coat of white primer to the hull (below the waterline) there will be a few areas requiring further attention to correct before the final coats of paint can be applied.

013 - Start of Second Planking Left-Hand Side

I have now made a start of the left-hand side second planking. I thought I would share my process in this respect. As can be seen in the first few photos I have added one plank below the outer bulwark pattern, and I have also added the garboard plank to along the keel.

I have now fitted the first three planks below the outer bulwark pattern. I did not get the clean joint I was after between the 2nd plank and the counter pattern so it will require a very small amount of filler.

I am also preparing the plank that sits next to the garboard plank. As there is a bend at the stern, I soaked the plank for a few minutes in hot water and then clamped the plank to the hull. The plank will be left to dry so the plank can retain the bend before it is glued in place.

15 minutes ago, BobG said:

You've built a wonderful model, Glenn, congratulations on finishing her in fine fashion! 

Many thanks Bob

012 - Right-Hand Side Second Planking Completed

I have had limited time in the shipyard over the last few days due to some pressing family commitments, so progress on the build has been slow. This afternoon I have managed to complete the 2nd planking on the right-hand side of the hull. I used GA gel to glue the planks to the hull and I am reasonably happy with the end result.

I have added some pictures of the planking.

Stern area

Bow Area

I am not sure what I am going to do with the area marked in the next photo, but I am not overly concerned as this area will be painted. I have noted that @James H used a small filler piece on the prototype build which I probably replicate.

45 minutes ago, killickthere said:

Unbelievably beautiful. I wish I had the talents and patience, (and lack of ADHDLMNOP), to attempt a model of this caliper.

 

Many thanks. I am not sure I have the talent as I made so many mistakes during this build. I have certainly learnt to have patience however.🙂

2 minutes ago, James H said:

Just add a little piece to infill there. It won't be seen.

That's what I thought, thanks for the confirmation.

011 - Outer Patterns Fitted

I have now fitted all the outer to the patterns (rabbet and bulwarks). I had a slight issue with the left-hand rear bulwark. With it glued in place I noted, when checking the run of the first 2nd planking, that the stern area required a bit more fairing under the bulwark area. Taking great care, I was able to release the outer rear bulwark pattern without damage. With the fairing redone the outer rear bulwark was reglued and looks OK.

With regards to the second planking, I was planning to fit full length planks. The photo below shows a test second plank dry fitted to the hull.

It looks good with the plank located in the stem post rabbet.

However, there is a slight problem with the stern area as the first plank is not quite long enough to be fitted as one plank as can be seen in the photo below.

I have two options, as detailed below:

Option A - Fit the plank as shown above and to then add a small filler piece to fill the gap.

Option B - Fit two planks with a joint at the same point as the front and rear outer bulwarks.

I am more inclined toward option A at the moment, but I am open to other suggestions.

Looks great

Great idea.

010 - Preparation for 2nd Planking

After sanding the hull some more this morning I was happy the hull was smooth except for a couple of areas with dips which needed filling.

I used my tried and trusted method for making a suitable filler paste which is a mix of Ronseal multi-purpose natural wood filler, titebond original wood glue and water. I use an approx. 50 / 50 split between the diluted wood filler and titebond. I am unable to take credit for the mixture as @James H described mixing diluted wood filler and titebond in one of his build logs. The photo below shows the ingredients ready to be mixed. 

Once the ingredients have been mixed, I end up with a nice smooth paste.

The filler paste is then pressed into the dip on the hull and is left to dry.

Once the filler paste had dried it is ready to sand smooth. The dip has been filled and the hull looks and feels smooth.

Now that I am happy with the hull, I decided to dry fit the keel, stem and stern rabbet patterns along with the outer bulwark patterns. The leading edge of both front outer bulwark patterns will need a little bit of sanding to get a good fit with the stem post.

After fairing the stern frames, the stern board was glued in place.  The outer stern counter pattern had been soaked in hot water for about 20 minutes and was then clamped in place and will be left to fully dry out before I can glue it in place.

Looks very nice, well done

009 - First Planking Completed

The first planking of the Erycina hull is now complete. Despite this being my 10th model boat project, I still seem to struggle with mastering the planking techniques. I certainly made a much better job of the right-hand side planking compared with the left-hand side on the Erycina.

I have given the hull its first pass of sanding and, for the most part, the hull is now reasonably smooth. I will revisit the state of the hull when I'm next in the shipyard and will continue to sand where appropriate. It is vitally important to get a smooth hull structure before adding the second layer of planking.

In no particular order I have attached a selection of photos showing the completed first planking.

008 - First Planking WIP

I have now completed planking the right-hand side of the Erycina hull. The planks went on without too many issues.

The first three planks did not require any tapering around the bow area. Once I had completed the first 5 planks, I moved on to add the garboard plank and I then continued to plank upward.

There are a few little bumps and dips, but I don't think it will require a great deal of sanding or filling to get a nice smooth surface ready for the second planking.

The stern area turned out reasonably neat.

The bow area also looks OK.

I have now started to plank the left-hand side. I have added the first top plank and the bottom garboard plank. I would expect to complete planking this side in the next couple of days.

I have also added the small stern filler piece above the top plank.

25 minutes ago, Bowline said:

moving smartly along

Slow and steady but I'm making good progress 

007 - Deck Items and Start of First Planking

I have done a bit more work with the deck items now that all the PE parts have been painted.

The photo below shows the companionway doors with hinges and handles fitted

I have now added the double block and PE parts to the Main Sheet Housing as shown below.

The parts have been added to the Gypsy Winch. I have only dry fitted the three brass wire parts as they still need to be cut to the right length. I have test fitted the which to the deck as shown in the next two photos.

The parts have been added to the Main Windlass. I have only dry fitted the brass wires as they still need to be cut to the right length. I have test fitted the windlass to the deck as shown in the next two photos.

As indicated in a previous post I noted that I would need to add some shims to the bulkheads before I could start the planking which I have now done, as can be seen in the photo below.

When starting to add the first plank to the stern area I felt it was better to let the plank following a natural path which meant I will need to add a steeler to fill the gap.

The first plank has been fitted.

I did dry fit the stem rabbet pattern and drew a pencil line which will aid me when planking to the stem post.

When fitting the planks, I am beveling the top edge before fitting which does help get a better joint between the planks.

I have been taking my time adding the planks and I have completed three planks.

An excellent model, you must be immensely proud of your build.