Glenn-UK

9 minutes ago, ccoyle said:

Fabulous result, Glenn!

Thanks Chris

2 minutes ago, DB789 said:

She looks super Glenn. Thanks for the detailed log. I’m following with my Erycina build a bit behind and this is really useful. 

Many thanks Dan. I found belaying the rigging, after the sails had been fitted, the trickiest aspect of this build due to the limited access.

041 - Completed Model

I have now built the display stand and the model is now complete. This has been an interesting and fun model to build. @chris watton design work is outstanding and the kit instruction manual, plan sheets and materials are of the finest quality.

I have attached a selection of photographs of the completed model for your viewing pleasure.

43 minutes ago, DelF said:

Looking very smart Glenn. Your rigging has come on leaps and bounds.  
 

Derek

Many thanks Derek. I have learnt so much from following your build logs.

040 - Mizzen Sail Rigging T

The end is in sight as I'm working on the mizzen sail and associated rigging which is the final boat building task.

The first photo shows the rigging of the mizzen gaff block to the two lower mizzen mast blocks. The thread from the end of the mizzen boom can also be seen being fed through the top mizzen mast block. The mizzen gaff lift rigging (the two 4mm double block can also be seen).

The next photo shows the mizzen gaff block rigging belayed.

The thread from end of the mizzen boom is belayed via a double block arrangement, with one end secured to a deck eyebolt, via a hook. The other end is taken to a belaying pin. In the photo below I have added a 3mm single block to the end of the boom rigging.

The next photo shows the other 3mm single block complete with the hook.

The next photo shows the completed double block in situ.

The final task was to belay the mizzen gaff lift thread to a belay pin. WIth that done all work on the mizzen sail was complete.

The final task on this build is to assemble the display stand.

  happy birthday Chris

039 - Outer Jib Sail Refit

Thanks to @James H eagle eye the problem with the outer jib sail was an incorrect fitting. This morning I set about releasing the outer jib sail. With a great deal of patience and careful manoeuvring of the threads used to secure the outer jib sail to the belaying pin and cleats I was able to successfully remove without any damage. I thought I would detail the refit process in this post, which may help other builders.

New thread (0.25mm natural) was then added to the outer jib sail. I did not have to replace the thimble that I had previously secured to the sail.

The sail was the hoisted up the main mast, via the block located on one of the mast rings, as can be seen below.

The other thread was then passed through the hole at the end of the bowsprit.  The outer jib sails alignment is already looking much better.

I then added the two threads to the eyebolts, In the next photo I am in the process of adding the seizing to one of these threads.

With all the rigging in place I took some time to adjust the position of the outer jib sail. As can be seen in the photo below I am using to reverse action tweezers to tension the rigging lines to check everything looks OK.

Keeping the tension of the thread that is fed through the bowsprit, with the reverse action tweezers, the other thread which passed through the main mast block was tied off to a belay pin on the main mast belaying rack. Next the thread that was fed through the hole at the end of the bowsprit was, after being fed through a hole on bulwark, then secured a cleat located on the inner bulwark. The final task was to secure the two threads from the eyebolts to cleats located on the inner bulwarks, via the thimble fitted to the outer jib sail, which is in progress in the next photo.

After around 60 minutes of effort the misaligned outer jib sail had been removed and rerigged and it does look so much better. I am really pleased I redid this task as the end result looks so much better.

Having noted the alignment error with the outer jib sail, which @James H noticed (many thanks) I will probably attempt remove the sail and align it as it should be. The hardest part will be trying to release the sails rigging from the cleats.

I have concluded I do not like rigging sails.

14 minutes ago, James H said:

She's looking real nice, Glenn. 

 

One thing to point out is that your fore sail is on in the wrong orientation. 

Thanks, I knew something looked wrong.

Looking good.

038 - Sails Work Continues

I have almost finished adding the sails. I am not very happy with how the inner and outer jibs sails have turned out. Despite rigging more complex models such as the Duchess of Kingston and The Sphinx I found the challenge of adding sails at times much more demanding, complex and fiddly. I think this was because I found it difficult to belay some of the rigging due as the sails getting in the way.

The photo below shows the current state of the build and really shows my substandard workmanship with the installation of the inner and outer jib sails. The only task left is to belay the various mizzen gaff rigging threads.

The next photo is a close up of the two jib sails. I could have done it better. On reflection this could be improved if I repositioned a couple of areas, so the jib sails were better aligned, for example:

a:) closing the distance between the double blocks at the top left-hand edge of the inner jib sail

b:) lowering the mast ring where the top left-hand edge of the inner jib sail is fastened.

I have decided that I will leave this model as built as it will not be on public display. Model ship building a hobby I enjoy, and it helps me pass the time during the day. I have improved my building skills is so many areas with my last few models. I know if I built another model fitted with sails, I would make a much better job.

The final photo of this post is a close up of the mizzen sail and rigging. All the rigging has been added and just needs to be belayed which should only take me an hour or two to complete.

11 minutes ago, DelF said:

Topgallant shrouds & Backstays

 

Thanks guys - much appreciated!

 

These are straightforward shrouds, not needing any ratlines. Although there is an odd number of shrouds - three - on both sides of both masts, the shrouds are still set up in pairs - two each side. That's because the aftmost leg of each pair becomes the topgallant backstay. You just have to remember that this leg needs to be considerably longer than its companion. I'm not sure this practice is recognised in the kit instructions where the topgallant backstays seem to feature as separate items, but my understanding is that this was the way it was done at the time. In theory the central portion of each pair should be served as per the lower masts, but I don't like serving such light line (I used 0.40mm), partly because it's difficult but also the result looks too heavy.  On Speedy I experimented with using fly tying thread to serve the line which avoided the bulkiness, but it was so hard to tell the difference between served and unserved line I concluded it wasn't worth the effort.

 

The shrouds rove through the holes in the cross trees and are then led round the futtock staves and the ends seized to the topmast shrouds. An innovation that came in towards the end of the eighteenth century (and is suggested in the kit instructions) was to lead the topgallant shrouds down to the tops where they were tied off to the lower deadeyes, presumably for ease of access when they needed adjustment. I thought that might look a bit messy so I stuck to the older method.

On both masts, the backstays ended in a thimble lashed to another thimble hooked close to the main and fore channels:

 

As usual, I haven't tightened any of the stays yet, preferring to wait until they're all rigged and I can make sure everything is balanced.

 

Here's the current state of play:

 

Topgallant sytays next.

 

Derek

 

Looking very good, excellent workmanship.

037 - Adding the Sails Part 1

I have started to add the sails. I have not added sails before, so it is a new experience for me. It has taken me a while to get use to method, but I am slowly getting there. I stated with adding the main mast sail and I then added the main topsail. As can be seen in the photo below there is a slight kink at the top of the main sail, but it is good enough for my low standards.

The next photo shows the main gaff block rigging. It also shows the main top sail fastened to the end of the main gaff.

The next photo shows the rigging through the three blocks on the main mast. I should have tried to reposition the bottom of these blocks, but now everything is belayed it will stay as is.

The next photo shows some of the belaying.

I then moved on to adding the inner jib sail. I started by securing the inner jib sail to the main stay. In the next photo I have tied the top and bottom threads to the main stay and the other thread are waiting to be tied to the main stay.

The next photo is a close up, I am moving from top to bottom as I secure the inner jib sail to the main stay.

The inner sail has now been secured to the main stay on the next photo.

The bottom edge of the inner jib sail is belayed to the Fore Jib Traveller in the next photo

The leading bottom edge of the inner jib sail is belayed to the eyebolt on the top of the stem post in the next photo

The top edge of the inner jib sail is secured to the main mast via a double block arrangement, and the thread has been taken down to a belaying pin on the main belaying pin rack.

The completed inner jib sail is shown below

The final photo shows the main, top main and inner jib sails. I will add the outer jib sail next. Once that is done the mizzen sail rigging can be completed which will complete the build.

You are building a fantastic model, great work

036 - Main Boom

I have now fitted the main boom which was a relatively straightforward task. I started with rigging the blocks between the boom and main sheet housing. In the photo below the rigging has been added but I have not belayed the free end. I have also run the thread from the end of the boom up to the top of the main mast.

The thread from the end of the boom was then fed through the top block on the main mast.

The thread is then belayed to the hull via a double block arrangement. I will touch up the metal work with black paint.

To complete the main boom the rigging between the boom and sheet housing blocks was belayed to the cleat on the housing.

The work on the main boom is now complete.

035 - Stays

I have added the top mast shroud and the main mast and main topmast stays. The next task will be to fit and rig the main and mizzen booms and gaff. Once that is done the sails can be added which should be the final task.

I have added some photos of the current state of the build.

The next photo shows the main topmast stay as it fed through the two thimbles on the end of the bowsprit.

The next photo shows the termination of the main and main topmast stays at the bow.

The final photo shows the lanyards for the main and topmast shrouds.

034 - Ratlines

Following on from my last post I have now completed adding the ratlines to the mizzen mast and the left-hand side of the main mast. It will not take me long to add the right-hand side main mast ratlines when I next visit the shipyard. Then I will add the stays.

Here are a few pictures.

033 - Lanyards and Ratlines

The lanyards have now been tied off. I thought I would share my process in this respect. The free end of the lanyard thread is attached to a needle which is then pushed through the top of the shroud deadeye, as shown below.

I then made a final adjustment to the lanyard and in the photo below you can see I am adjusting the lanyards.

Once the lanyards have been adjusted the free end is looped around the deadeye with a simple knot, as shown in the next photo.

As the knot is pulled tight it is carefully positioned to sit just above the shroud deadeye.

It did not take too long to complete tying off all the lanyards.

I printed a template for the ratlines. With the template pinned in place I added vertical lines which shows where the shroud lines should be positioned and should help me to keep the shrouds in place as the ratlines are added.  I also added some numbers to the template. every 5th line has a 0 which indicates the first ratlines to added. The 2 indicates the next set of ratlines and the 1 indicates the final set of ratlines.

The next photo shows the first set of "0" ratlines in place, and I am using clove hitch knots to secure the ratlines to the shrouds.

IN the next photo I have added all the "2" ratlines. I will adjust the ratlines as necessary before I trim the excess ratline thread. Once the ratlines are complete, I will apply a diluted pva solution to the shrouds and ratlines.

11 minutes ago, Bowline said:

Nice!!

Thank you and should look a bit better once all the shrouds have been adjusted and the lanyards tied off.

032 - Shroud Line Deadeyes

I have now added the deadeyes to the various shrouds. All that is left to do, before I start work on the ratlines, is to adjust the tension of the shrouds and to then seize the free end of lanyards around the shroud deadeye.

9 hours ago, Craigie65 said:

Hi Glen,

Do the top deadeyes need rotating to me a mirror image of the lower one?

well spotted, you are correct

031 - Starting To Rig The Shrouds

With the main and mizzen sail added to their respective masts and gaffs it now was time to start adding the shroud lines. I have a jig which I use to set the distance between the deadeyes. I have set the distance to 15mm. In the photo below I have positioned the jig, ready for first shroud deadeye.

The next photo is a slightly different angle and shows both deadeyes in place on the jig.

I take then shroud line and wrap in around the deadeye to get an approx. position for the shroud deadeye.

I then position the shroud line in the quad hands ready to add the seizing to make the deadeye loop.

With the seizing added the loop can be pull tight around the deadeye. Using the jig as a guide it is possible to adjust the position of the deadeye ion the shroud so its set to the correct distance, as shown below.

With the position of the deadeye set I can complete adding the seizing, once again using the quad hands.

The process is then repeated for the next shroud line. I then added the lanyard rigging to double check the alignment of the first two deadeyes. They seem to be level which mean the process worked well. When reviewing the photo below I am a bit disappointed with the upper seizing on the right-hand shroud line. I might remove and redo it.

26 minutes ago, chris watton said:

Am now on my second prototype hull for the large armed schooner after further fine tuning...

 

OK, today I finally received my Alert premium sail sets (paid for and ordered back in May)!

 

Alert Sail Set – VANGUARD MODELS

 

I have put in another order which should be with me in the New Year.

 

Also, here at last is my Indefatigable pear block and deadeye stock (a lot of blocks and deadeyes)!, so these will be available when the kit is on pre order.

 

I will finish all Indy laser cutting within the next week (damn that's a lot of material), so all that will be left is to wait for Jim to complete the hull. As soon as this is done and have finished updating the manual, I shall release.

 

Finally, I invested in an A0 plotter, so was able to print and send Jim all of the Indy plans, which makes things a little easier for him, especially for masts and yards.

All I want for Christmas is an Indy kit.

1 hour ago, Craigie65 said:

Very neat

Many thanks Craig. I am pleased with how this has turned out. I now have to repeat the process for the mizzen sail which is attached to both the mizzen mast and mizzen gaff.

030 - Main Sail

I have never added sails to any of my previous builds, so this was going to be a new experience and skill set to master. I decided the first task would be to check that sail rings fitting on the main mast. The main mast did require a very light sand before the sail rings would slide freely up and down the mast.

I had no real idea what I should do with regards to adding the main sail, noting it needed to be secured to both the main mast and main gaff. I ended up starting by adding the main mast sail rings. After a bit of measuring, I calculated a spacing of 13mm between each sail ring was necessary. In the photo below the first sail ring has been added and the thread required for the next sail ring has been added.

Working methodically, I was making good progress with adding the main sail rings.

Once the final sail ring had been fitted it was then time to check the main sail could be positioned on the main mast.

Now that I was happy with how the main sail could be positioned up and down the main mast, I turned my attention to adding the main gaff to the sail. I found this to be slightly trickier than adding the sail rings. With a couple of threads added I did a quick check with the gaff positioned on the main mast.

I was happy with the work so far and after a short while the task was complete, and another fitting was undertaken. The sail maybe needs to be a bit higher on the main mast, so the sail clears the deck fittings.