Omega1234

Hi Frank
 
Lovely framing.  This is where the fruits of your labour really starts to take shape.
 
Cheers
 
Patrick

Thank you jct, glad to have you along 

Very nice work through out, glad to follow along

Pfew... my little corsair has been gathering dust for quite a while now.
 
Next is the building of the "toe rail".  
First I've drilled a whole on the place where i want the supports for the rail. Afterwards i squared them out using a square file.
 


 
Then the glue goes into the wholes and the supports are put in place. I've used some walnut i had lying around.
 

 
After drying overnight, i put in the toe rail. To make that rail I've first drew a template from the profile of the hull. 
 

 
After everything dried, i sawed of the extents of the supports and sanded everything smooth. Afterwards I treated the wood with oil.
 

Continuing planking the deck, now near the stern.
 

 

 

I treenailed the counter.
 

 
And the porcupine reappears 
 

 

 
The finished counter.
 

Cutting planks for the decks on the proxxon table saw.
 

 
First placing the two middle planks of the deck.
 

 
Then progressing along each side of those middle planks.
 

Now on to the margin plank.
 
I started with making a template out of paper by tracing the hull.
 

 
Onto which i drew the different parts for the margin planks.
 

 
I cut those out using caution.
 

 
And glued them on a piece of Cherry wood using a glue stick (Pritt).
 

 
After sawing them out, i needed a sander to get them to close to the line. My scroll saw skills are not so good 
 


 
The delicate parts i did with file.
 

 
The result before placing on the hull.
 

 
And finally glueing it in place.
 

 

Hi Kees
 
Love the coat hanger improvisation.

Marvelous work, Kees. Those colours make them very vibrant, a treat to look at!!

Looking good Popeye....fine build.
 
Rob

there ya go Tom and John.........nearest I know of is Boston.........you can be there when they come to haul me away!  

thanks very much everyone for the comments and likes........even I wanted to see how it would look     I put it half together on the table and finished it on the ship.......it worked out just as well.  I'm hoping to get something done today,  but it don't look promising.  if you read my Thermopylae log...you know why    I will try to get the other net up.  it will get the other net rig from hanging off of my crane light.   the clothes pin that I'm using for a counter weight hits the shade {which is metal},  and makes the sound of a ship's bell,  whenever someone walks by the table.  it can get annoying when it rings past three bells    

That net looks great! You have an aquarium you can test it in?

So, when are you taking her out for a test trawl?
 
John

Ya got my vote for "cool" - nice work Denis; that looks really good.
 
cheers
 
Pat

That's a "Wow" Denis. Looking great.
 
Bob
 
 
 

Nice progress Denis.  She's looking really very great.
 
Cheers,

I spent a little time with this build today.......I think everyone is waiting to see this.   I installed the starboard side net.  it involved fastening the net to one of the trawl rigs,  as the first step,  using metal rings to do so.   a length of hemp rope was seized to one side of the rig,  and about 26 colored beads were strung on.   I ended up choosing the yellow and white ones.

at the other end of the net,  a ring was fastened there too.   a shackle was threaded on some rigging rope,  and fastened to the net via the ring.

it's a bit blurry,  but you can see that the sides were crimped together before it was seized.  all of the beads {buoys} were spaced and cemented in place on the rope.when lifted,  the buoys hang natural.

{I laid it out to show}     the assembly was then fastened using the shackle that I had previously threaded on the net rigging.   the rigging rope that is on the other end of the net,  was threaded through the block {double block}  and tied off to the shroud spreader and given a rope coil.


I made up a bunch of these curly looking things........these need to be trimmed and shaped,  and used to fasten the bottom lip of the net to the buoy string.  the upper lip of the net is fastened to the center chain supports of the rig itself.


the port side net is on the desk.......it will get the same treatment and installed on the ship.   thanks for looking in  

Beautiful framing.

Mahuna, holy smokes!  this is drop dead gorgeous!!!!

Thanks Michael
 
Thanks Druxey

Taking shape nicely, Frank!

Very elegant framing.

Part 9 – Frames, cont’d
 
There is no mention of cant frames in the HAER documentation, but in the drawings the forward most 11 frames on Kathryn appear to be canted.  I’ve decided to construct those 11 frames as cant frames.
 
The framing jig for the cant frames is essentially the same as for square frames, except that only one side of the drawing is used at a time, due to the angle the jig must be held at, as in the following photos.
 
 


It is also necessary to angle the base of the frame floor timber so that it sits flush against the keelson.  Each of the eleven frames will sit against the keelson at a different angle, so these angles were measured from the half-breadth plan and recorded.  Templates were created so these angles could be accurately created on the frames, as shown in the following photo.
 


The following photo shows a template being checked against the drawing on the shipway.
 

 
The templates were printed on card stock and are used to adjust the miter gauge on the disk sander to the appropriate angle.
 


A temporary batten – held by clamps – is used to double-check the fairness of the frames.
 


The cant frames were installed in the same way as the square half-frames.  A stiffening brace was added between frames while the new cant frame was still in the installation jig.
 
 


The aftmost square frames – 22 through 26 – need to be faired to conform to the rising shape of the keelson in that area.  The drawings for these frames indicate the fairing needed.
 

In this drawing the color and configuration of the lines indicates the shaping required:
·      The red lines indicate the aftmost face of the frame, while the green lines indicate the forward face.
·      The frame is cut out along the solid lines, whether red or green, and then the dashed lines indicate the edge of the frame that that needs to be reduced (the cutting line).
 
Since the drawing is pasted to the front face of the frame, the first task is to draw a line corresponding to the red dashed line on the aft face of the frame.  A compass is used to measure the distance of the dashed line from the edge of the frame, and this compass setting is used to draw a corresponding line on the aft edge of the frame.
 

 
The frame is then shaped using a stump cutter in a rotary tool.  First, the cutter is used to cut the aft edge of the frame down to the drawn line.  It is then used to flatten the entire outer edge of the frame at the appropriate angle.
 

 
The forward face of the frame is shaped by cutting to the green dashed line. 

The braces used for the cant frames and for the aftmost square frames need to be angled to fit securely against the frames they support, as shown in the following photo.
 


Cant frames 7 through 11 have been installed at this point.
 



The square frames have been installed to frame 23.
 


So this leaves 6 cant frames and the aftmost 3 square frames to be installed.  I hope to have these frames completed sometime next week.
 
 

There are a couple of frames in the midship area that concern me, and I may need to remove and re-install them.  But I won’t think about that until all of the frames have been installed.
 
Thanks everyone for following, for the ‘LIKES’, and for the encouraging comments.