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MrBlueJacket

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Everything posted by MrBlueJacket

  1. Over the weekend I was able to finish the royal yards, they are ready to mount. Also worked on the sky yards as well.
  2. So here's the start of the royal yards. from dowel to tapered to yardarm. And now all 3 roughed out, ready for saddles, jackstays, footropes, etc.
  3. Status update: Rigging the sheet and clew lines takes a lot of time, but there's not much to look at. Next up are the Royal yards.
  4. The late modeler Steve Wheeler has often said "the trash can is your best tool" Having said that, I hate re-doing things. But if you're not happy, I think it's necessary. Go for it and make yourself proud! Nic
  5. Trim the ends, apply a spot of fabric cement to the back of the upper loop, and install. Very convincing look.
  6. Then slide the loose thread end through the groove and knot it in the middle of the coil. Use a tiny drop of CA to secure the knot. Then slip the coil off the jig, spread out the upper end a little.
  7. Clasmp the end of the thread with the clothespin on the right side of the picture. Then put three wraps of thread aroiund the pins, and clamps the left pin with the clohespin with the hole in it.
  8. Last night I made a few rope coils. Here's how to do it. First, the equipment - a strip of wood with a groove and two pins, two reversed clothspins, one of which has a hole in it, and of course the thread.
  9. I agree with Roger. It could be any two non-compatible finishes. For example, enamel first, then acrylics. Or, acrylics, then enamel. The ides is that when you wipe off the caulk color, that solvent won't eat at the underlying finish. Nic
  10. All those blocks now added to the yards, and they are now hung on the masts. All askew until I add the lifts this weekend. And the halyards, and the sheet sand clews.
  11. When I do the rigging on these yards, I will document my technique. Of course, it is only one of many ways to do it. Nic
  12. And here they are ready for painting. I use .010" wire for the footropes, they always get bent around when I do the rigging, so I won't straighten them out until the end. The fore and main have 15 holes drilled, and 7 eyebolts each.
  13. All the topsail sheets and clew lines are done. Here's a shot of the mizzen Next will be making the t'gallant yards.
  14. Once you mask off, it is a good idea to paint either clear of the color under the tape. That seals the edge of the tape and makes for nice crisp lines.
  15. A good choice for starting. Remember: "Putty and paint - makes it look like what it ain't" One of my favorite expressions, and so true.
  16. Got the foremast topsail sheet and clew done this afternoon. Hard to see the "cloverleaf block" under the foreyard, but the chain is belayed to the pinrail, then through the cloverleaf block, the out to the sheave at the end of the yard (remember when I put those in?) and then to a single block, which receives a line from the topmast near the center, then down to the pinrail. The sheet tackle is .015, while the clew is .010. This is because the sheet carries a lot of force when he sail is deployed, but the clew only pulls up the sail itself.
  17. So here's the mizzen topyard halyard - with these all done, next is the topsail sheet and clew lines. Chain with blocks on each end.
  18. After several nights of work, all the lower lifts are aligned and tied off. Still have all the topyard halyards to do. A fair amount of woprk with little to show.
  19. So after 4 months and 10 days, I am back to the Red Jacket. During that time, I built a Whaleboat and did 2 repairs for customers. When I left off, all the lower and top yards were installed, top yards had their lifts, lower yards had their lifts, but not yet tied to belaying pins. Only the main top had halyards installed, but again not belayed. So I have a lot of aligning and tying off to do. Of course, first thing I did was to break one of the main lower lift attachments
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