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MrBlueJacket

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Everything posted by MrBlueJacket

  1. MrBlueJacket
    Here's the dory with thwarts and caprail painted.
  2. MrBlueJacket
    Did I say they are delicate? While sanding them, two handles broke off. This leads me to several choices: 1- get more lasered oars (advantage of working here) 2- only show 2 oars on the boat 3-get creative and find a way to hide the error I'm deciding on #3. I think it will work.
  3. MrBlueJacket
    Next comes the oars. They are lasered in 1/16" basswood, and are very delicate. Raw piece and sanded piece.
  4. MrBlueJacket
    Now for the thole pins. I'm making them from .020 brass rod. First, I cut them long and install them through the caprail. Next step is to trim them to length. I'm using a 1/16" x 1/8" scrap of wood as the guide. And here's the trimmed thole pins.
  5. MrBlueJacket
    Gripe and gunwale installed.
  6. MrBlueJacket
    Start adding the frame pieces. All the frame pieces in and the thwarts.
  7. MrBlueJacket
    A little sanding to bevel the stem, transom, and bottom so the sides can lay on a flat surface. Trim the first side, and add the other side, remove from building jig and sand to final shape.
  8. MrBlueJacket
    I attached the knee to the transom and then glued transom and stem to the bottom. Put it on the building board, and the stem came up a little short. No big deal.
  9. MrBlueJacket
    Plan ahead! Because I want to leave the inside natural wood, I sprayed the parts with flat clear (both sides.) That way, glue won't stain the wood. Once the paint dries, it's time to start assembling.
  10. MrBlueJacket
    Like all dories, it is built upside down. FIrst step is to wax the formers so the glue (hopefully) doesn't stick. Then they are glued to the building board.
  11. MrBlueJacket
    So I'm building the Smuggler dory for display. At 1/4" = 1', it's a small model. Here's the instruction sheet and kit parts.
  12. MrBlueJacket
    And here are all 3 finished traps.
  13. MrBlueJacket
    So while the traps are done, the package includes 3 buoy blanks (see post#2). Here's a photo of them finished.
  14. MrBlueJacket
    tease it with an Xacto blade
  15. MrBlueJacket
    The final step is to paint the trap. I used some light gray, then dusted it with olive drab to make it look like algae scum. And with that, this comparison is over. We will be phasing this new way in over the next few months.
  16. MrBlueJacket
    After all the slats are on, the remaining steps are the same for either way. Add the netting and opening
  17. MrBlueJacket
    New way: glue the sheet of slats. Much easier. Of course, either way, the slats have to be trimmed.
  18. MrBlueJacket
    Next step is to add the end slats. Old way: glue them on individually
  19. MrBlueJacket
    New way: Attach the sheet of slats. Much easier, all slats are evenly spaced. Once bent around the hoops and glued in place, it is a simple matter to trim off the edges.
  20. MrBlueJacket
    Next step - old way: individually attach the slats to the hoops. Tedious, and prone to misalignment.
  21. MrBlueJacket
    How about the Charles P. Notman? Or maybe the large Friendship sloop and put a dollhouse figure or two in it. Picnic, maybe?
  22. MrBlueJacket
    New way, add 2 longitudinal pieces, then put down the sheet of strips. Nice and evenly spaced.
  23. MrBlueJacket
    Next step is to finish the bottom. Old way, add 4 cross braces (carefully fitted) and finally add the strip wood bottom pieces.
  24. MrBlueJacket
    Congratulations Dave! Your customer file now show a 10% discount on the next kit you get from us. Nic
  25. MrBlueJacket
    I have decided to build both the old and new traps so people can compare the two. First step old way is to cut the bottom stringers from stripwood, champher the ends and drill holes. Then free the hoops and glue to the stringers. The new way is to again free the hoops, but now you just glue them to the pre-cut holes in a lasered base.

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