ianmajor

First of all, never download a model from a third party file sharing site.  Always download models from the designer's own web site or a site authorized to host them.  Second, never buy CD's claiming to have "hundreds of models" from auction sites like eBay  -- these are inevitably scans of commercial kits.  If you shop at eBay or somewhere similar on-line, make sure the seller displays a photo of the printed kit booklet; it should have an artwork cover with the publisher's name plainly visible.

1:60 HMS Naiad 1797
Part 181– Deadeyes and Chains
 
I will admit that making deadeye chains is one of my least favorite tasks, so it is well that it comes near the end of the project when my desire to get finished overcomes my reluctance to working on these.  I find it difficult to exactly measure the required lengths of the chains and lack the patience to make all the easily deformed pieces straight.  However, having said that, the task must be faced.  There are a lot of steps to the process I use.  I will merely summarize.
 
Turning the deadeyes is the easy part.  I use a shaped cutter as shown in the first picture.
 

 
After these are polished in the lathe and parted off, the holes are drilled with the aid of the indexing head in the mill,  The next picture shows a finished deadeye fitted with its binding,
 

 
For the large deadeyes the bindings and chains were made from 20-gauge copper wire.  When stretched this is just slightly (⅛”) larger than specified.   Close enough, when considering that wire sizes are limited.
 
Once the correct binding size is found by trial and error, the assembly shown above is used to help determine the length of the two chain loops that connect to the bolt at the top of the preventer plate.  This measurement is taken as shown in the next picture.
 

 
The next step is to find two links to fit this measurement.  I do this by selecting two from a group made by wrapping wire around a tapered plate then parting off a number of loops of increasing size.  The next picture shows the tapered plate being wrapped with pre-stretched wire.
 

 
The next picture shows three stages in making a soldered loop.
 

 
The lower loop in the picture is as-cut.  The middle one has had its end curved to close the gap for silver-soldering. 
The loop at the top has had a small amount of copper-phosphorus solder paste applied and is ready for the heat.
 
After soldering, the toe loop is crimped around a wire at the bottom end and soldered at the bottom.  The middle loop is then fitted between this and a binding loop and soldered.  The deadeye is then fit into he binding and shaped around the deadeye.  The next picture shows a set of these hanging from pins in their final locations.
 

 
After assembly the chains are test fitted at the measured location.  Since the model will not be rigged they need to be taut for appearance purposes.  If the chain does not fit in the measured location, I try it at other places until a nice fit is found.  When the set is complete the chains are polished up, straightened and blackened.  They are then installed.  The next picture shows the completed chains on the fore channel.
 

 
Ed

Tom,
 
Gaeton is absolutely right. Milling bits are more complex than drill bits. There are different designs for different functions. They should be used wherever possible. However, I have successfully used ground down broken drill bits to mill very small slots. I have cut slots in brass and wood this way. With the brass I chain drill the slit then use the broken bit (same size) to mill the holes in to a slot. (Purists will be rolling their eyes now!  )  The trick was to keep the length of unsupported bit as short as possible and to take it very, very slowly, taking very small cuts on each pass. For wood I keep the speed low to avoid burning.
 
When milling you should always use a collet to ensure the mill bit is running concentrically. Initially I used an ordinary power drill type three jaw chuck and broke a couple of milling bits (expensive). Since using collets (sadly also expensive) I have not had any bit problems. 
 
Another thing to avoid with micro milling machines is "Climb milling". The small machines are less rigid than their larger brothers, so if you try climb milling (particularly on metal) the milling bit can grab (rather than cut) the work resulting in, at best, a mangled work piece or possibly a broken mill bit or even damage to the machine itself. Before I had the miller I did my milling on a micro lathe using a vertical slide. I had spent some time milling a piece and was approaching the end - got sloppy - and did my final pass using climb milling. It grabbed. It broke one cutting edge off the bit, left my beautiful work looking look at had been attacked with a cold chisel. The lurching machine also frightened the life out of me.
 
Below are two diagrams that show the difference between conventional (first diagram) and climb milling.
 
Conventional milling.
 

 
Climb milling
 

 
With regard to training - personally I have had none (which is probably obvious to those who have been formally trained) but am a cheerful amateur. There are plenty of small, cheap soft cover books available that give introductions to milling. On You Tube there are loads of "how to" clips on the subject (I recently looked at a series by Tubal Cain on making a single cylinder steam engine from basic materials).
 
If you decide to get a milling machine then:
 
Step 1 - read, understand and observe the safety instructions.
Step 2 - read the basic operating instructions supplied with the machine.
Step 3 - clamp a block of pine wood on the machine and fit a milling bit and try things out - as long as you have done step 1 and 2 carefully, and don't wind the bit in to the miller's table you won't do any harm.
Step 4 - enjoy the experience.
 
I find it a very satisfying experience to watch the miller in action (what a sad existence this man must live - I hear you say!).     
 
 
    
 
  
 
 

Before the boiler top is fixed on I can still access the inside of the stove. So I have made 2 cocks which will be soldered in place from the inside of the end plates.
 
I have made some cocks from 3mm diameter brass rod, these were end drilled 0.5mm, then turned to the profile in the photo. They were also cross drilled to take wire handles. However I am not happy with these. Looking at photos of the replica stove on Victory the spouts should be longer and tapered. The left hand cock in the photo has also got an off centre hole. So I will replace these.
 
Photo 10)
 

 
I will soon be fixing legs on the stove. These will be made long so that they can fit in to holes in the brick base. I need to complete the brick base first so that I can determine how long the feet need to be. That is the current job in hand.
 
Time to go back to the work bench.       
 
 

John, Joe, Bob, and David,
 
Thank you very much....!
 
Ian Thank You very much. Thanks for noticing. I once placed the flag upside down, and swore never to do that again..!  

I find it easier to attach some detail whilst the parts are flat. In this case I added the small doors on to the sides.
 
I made all the doors from 0.25mm sheet N/S. They were all the same width so again I produced a strip of N/S to this width then cut the individual doors from it. The hinges and latches were made from 0.5mm N/N wire. These I attached to each door before separating it from the strip - it made it a lot easier to hold. I then ran a smooth file over the hinges and latch to make them flat.
 
The completed doors were then soldered to the sides. The hinge/latch detail is a bit crude and cries out for etched brass overlays.
 
Photo 5 shows (from left to right) The three parts to make the boiler end, the two sides with the middle spacer, the hearth end which includes the rear of the hood. 
 
Photo 5)
 

 
Time to start soldering. Because no parts will come under any strain I am happily using soft solder. I have soft solders that melt just above 100 degrees C up to 230 degrees C for which my iron has plenty of grunt. I use liquid (acid) fluxes. I also have silver solders and a variety of blow torches for the heavy jobs.
 
I soldered the cross pieces to one side. Purists say that you should fix one end to one side, fix the other end to the other side then bring the two assemblies together - but hey ho.
 
Photo 6)
 

 
Photo 7)
 

 
 
 
 

Next up was to solder the other side in place and create the hood.
 
The rear of the hood was already in place but pointed backwards at too great an angle. So using the piercing saw I cut a grove along its rear face immediately above the sides. This allowed me to bend it cleanly upwards to the right angle.
 
The front of the hood was cut from the strip used to make the cross pieces above.
 
From the rear of the hood I measured the height for the hood side pieces, produced strip to this size and cut off two over length pieces. The hood sides were then soldered to the hood rear and the hood front soldered between them. This left the hood sides overlapping the front. It was simple job to file them back to the correct size.
 
Photo 8)
 

 
Next came the grate. I threaded 5 lengths of 0.5mm and 2 lengths of 0.75mm N/S rod though the stove sides - not forgetting the middle spacer. The rods were soldered in place on the outside of both sides. The middle spacer was then carefully positioned centrally and squarely. This part only needed flux applied, no extra solder, before the iron was touched on it. The solder still on its surface from the earlier stage flowed in to all the joints - leaving firmly in place and tidy. Photo 9 shows it before I trimmed the excess rod off.
 
Photo 9)
 

 
 
 

UPDATED 12/2022
 
The tutorial I will be writing will use a free kit as its subject, but supposing you wished to buy a paper model kit, where could you get one, and who makes the best kits?
 
The first question is rather easier to answer than the second, so we'll start by discussing the various publishing houses.  Few card model designers run their own publishing outfit; usually the designers farm their kits out to one or more publishing houses.  This makes it a little difficult to generalize about Publisher A versus Publisher B, because a designer might have his or her design published at both places.  Lesson: It pays to take note of who designed a particular kit you like, then look for that designer's work at different sites.  Something else to make note of is the date of publication.  CAD designing did not become commonplace until about the turn of the new century -- the earlier a kit is published prior to 2000, the more likely it is to be hand-drawn.  This is not to say that all hand-drawn kits are bad (they aren't) or that CAD-drawn kits are always preferable (they aren't either), but CAD-drawn kits usually have more and finer detail.
 
With that in mind, let's take a look at some of the major publishing firms.  This is by no means an exhaustive list, because due to the nature of the product and the fact that it can easily be electronically distributed, there are dozens of Mom and Pop sites that may have a limited offering available.  Here's a few of the better-known outfits:
 
WAK: This is currently my favorite Polish publisher and shop, as they have the best shipping rates to the US.
 
GPM:  GPM are one of the largest card model publishers in Poland.  They have a large selection of ship models in many scales, both in their own line and from many other publishers as well.  They also have an extensive inventory of after-market accessories.  Ordering by mail from Poland is usually not terribly expensive.  GPM's listed postage rates are steep, but according to reports from other modelers, GPM will calculate the actual postage charge and refund the difference between that and the rate calculated at their website.
 
Modelik:  Modelik carries only their own line of models, but as discussed previously, these are not all the work of one designer.  Modelik kits are generally well-regarded in the hobby.  Modelik charges a flat shipping rate of 15 EUR per order.
 
JSC:  JSC have an extensive line of ship models and are one of the few Polish publishers to offer a large selection of models in a scale other than the usual 1/200 favored in that country; JSC kits are normally either 1/250 or 1/400.  Many of JSC's kits are older hand-drawn designs.  JSC sells directly to the public and through other on-line retailers.
 
Kartonowy Arsenal (KA):  Better known by the surname of its owner and chief designer, Halinski, KA offer highly detailed models of mostly WWII warships.  Though often considered suited only for advanced modelers, the fact that they usually fit together so well eliminates some of the problems found in less well designed kits.  KA does not sell directly to the public. (EDIT (2022): KA does now sell directly from their site, although the ordering process is not what you might expect. You send an email specifying the products you wish to order, and then KA sends you a quote.)
 
Orel:  This Ukrainian publisher is relatively new to the scene, but they have been prolific.  They offer a large selection of mainly Czarist-era Russian vessels, including torpedo boats, destroyers, cruisers, and pre-Dreadnoughts in 1/200 scale.  Orel sells directly to the public as well as through larger firms like GPM. (UPDATE (Dec. 2022): Due to the current hostilities in Ukraine, Orel is not currently accepting orders.)
 
HMV:  The Hamburger Modellbaubogen Verlag is probably the premier German ship model publishing house.  Like other German publishers, their kits come in the 1/250 scale preferred in Germany.  They have a wide selection of mostly German warships, passenger ships, and merchantmen.  They also offer an extensive line of after-market detail sets.  HMV have been good about upgrading their designs, and several of their older hand-drawn models are currently being reworked as CAD models.  HMV does not sell directly to the public from their website.
 
Moewe Verlag:  Also known as Wilhelmshavener, this publisher has an extensive line of warships, passenger ships, and merchantmen in 1/250.  Ordering from them can be kind of tricky, since many of their kits are hand-drawn models dating as far back as the 1960’s, and this isn’t always obvious when browsing their website.  MV kits tend to be less detailed than HMV kits, but they have a broader selection and somewhat lower prices.  They don’t offer after-market detail sets.  Moewe kits can be purchased on-line from their website.
 
J F Schreiber:  Schreiber are the third major German publisher.  Their kits are, as a rule, less detailed than either HMV or Moewe, but they offer more kits of simpler subjects suited to beginning modelers.  They also offer more kits in 1/100 scale than other publishers.  Schreiber operates an on-line store.
 
Paper Shipwright:  Designer David Hathaway’s line of kits is unique in its extensive offering of monitors.  David also designs small passenger craft and working vessels.  These are generally very good kits and also reasonably priced, with a fair but not overwhelming amount of detail.  Paper Shipwright kits can be ordered directly from their website.
 
Shipyard: The premier publisher of card model sailing subjects. Shipyard kits are distributed in the US by Ages of Sail.
 
In addition to the aforementioned publishers, many excellent designs are available from smaller outfits, some notable ones of which include Digital Navy and Answer (perhaps not exactly 'small outfits', but their ship model selections are limited).  As noted, some of these publishers sell directly to the public, and some don’t.  Finding a retailer that carries the kits you want can sometimes be a taxing ordeal, but here are some of the more popular sites:
 
GPM, Orlik, and Model-Hobby are three of the larger Polish retailers, each carrying their own in-house models as well as designs from other firms.
Karton Modell Shop is a German retailer with a good selection from a variety of designers.
Marcle Models are one of the larger distributors in the UK.
Paper Model Store is practically the only US retailer with a broad selection of Polish kits.  None from Germany, though. (UPDATE: The PMS website has been inactive for years now, and the seller appears to selling on eBay these days.)
E-Cardmodels is a retail venue for a slew of small designers -- a lot of variety of subjects, scales, and degree of difficulty.
HMV are sold through Fentens Paper Models. As of December, 2022, HMV is looking for a new US distributor.
 
There are many, many other places to buy kits on-line, but these should get you started.  Have fun browsing!
 
Back to Part II: Start for FREE!     On to Pt. IV: Tools & Other Supplies

Ian,  its true the jaws do dent wood, so everything is oversize to start with, so the fininshed product has had the marks turned out of them.  cheers William

Hi Paul,
 
Thanks for dropping in and your encouraging words, really appreciated.  Yes indeed, wood can give us some problems and I did encounter a little in the beginning.  But then again, I assume that paper, card and styrene can also pose a few problems.
I'm looking forward to your WW I German sub build, they were awesome.  
 
Okay, we are back home now since a week from our sojourn to Coraopolis, PA, a town west of Pittsburgh, PA to visit our daughter and be present at our grandson's High School graduation.
 
As I may have mentioned before, I planned to visit the USS Cod in Cleveland, Ohio.  That sub was the one that was called to assist the Dutch sub O 19 getting off Ladd Reef.  The attempt failed and the Cod took the O 19 crew on board and had to destroy my father's beloved O 19.  Remember that they were in enemy waters even though the war was winding down.  This event was in july 1945, thus just one month away from the end of hostilities.
Because the USS Cod has a close relationship with my father's boat I Just had to go and see and touch her.  So, I took my grandson Troy with me, he too wanted to see the sub.  The curator, Paul Farace, promised us a special guided tour, which he did.
 
I mentioned a few of the things my father was involved with with the build of the O 19 and some of the escapades during his early years with the KM (Royal Navy).  Like when my grandson saw the torpedo tubes it reminded him of the story I told him about his great grandfather going out of his sub when she got tangled up in fishing nets when submerged.  Yup, he was also a trained Navy diver and he thought nothing of it to don the "third lung" and go outside.  He went through the stern tube and cut the boat loose and freed the props.  Then got back inside.  This was before he got married to my mother when he was a "wild and crazy guy," to coin a phrase.  There is nothing like a visual image to drive a point home.  Needles to say our grandson is duly impressed with his great grandfather.
 

This is the URL with the true story of the rescue attempt by the USS Cod.  Copy and paste the URL in your web browser and watch the sad end of the proud O 19.
 
I hope you wont mind a few pics of the Cod with a few items the crew managed to take off the O 19 before destroying her. 
 

This is a panoramic shot my grandson Troy made on his dangfangeled new Samsung Galaxy 3 of the USS Cod in Cleveland Ohio.
 

This is a picture of the bow tubes in the USS Cod.  Now my grandson could visualize his great grandfather going outside his "netted" submarine.  A story come alive, somewhat.
 

This is your's truly, the Flying Dutchman, in the engine room aboard the USS Cod.  These diesels still run and purr like kittens!  No, they didn't fire them up for us.  They have some water in the case oil, which is not too good for the bearings.  However, once most of the water is sucked out then the engines should be run and brought up to temperature.  This will allow the water to evaporate and breath out of the engines.  That's what we do with aircraft engines too.
 

This is the pendant from the O 19 and given to the crew of the USS Cod.  This pendant was made by one of the O 19 crew members.
 

This is the brass plaque attached to one of the O 19's bulkheads after her refurbish by the Scottish Dockyard.  After the Dutch submarine supply ship was destroyed by the Japanese with all the spare parts and etc., all the Dutch subs had to be refitted to English standards so they could continue with their battle against the enemy.  The so called deck torpedo launcher was also removed but they did not reinstall the doors.  
 

Traditionally the conning tower shows the ship's decorations and enemy ships sunk.  You'l notice a tipped cocktail glass with the letters O 19 below it.  This is to commemorate the party the crew of the O 19 gave to the crew of the USS Cod for their rescue.  This was apparently the mother of all parties in the annals of naval warfare!  Both boats served the allied effort with honor and distinction. 
 
Cheers.

Next up was to solder the other side in place and create the hood.
 
The rear of the hood was already in place but pointed backwards at too great an angle. So using the piercing saw I cut a grove along its rear face immediately above the sides. This allowed me to bend it cleanly upwards to the right angle.
 
The front of the hood was cut from the strip used to make the cross pieces above.
 
From the rear of the hood I measured the height for the hood side pieces, produced strip to this size and cut off two over length pieces. The hood sides were then soldered to the hood rear and the hood front soldered between them. This left the hood sides overlapping the front. It was simple job to file them back to the correct size.
 
Photo 8)
 

 
Next came the grate. I threaded 5 lengths of 0.5mm and 2 lengths of 0.75mm N/S rod though the stove sides - not forgetting the middle spacer. The rods were soldered in place on the outside of both sides. The middle spacer was then carefully positioned centrally and squarely. This part only needed flux applied, no extra solder, before the iron was touched on it. The solder still on its surface from the earlier stage flowed in to all the joints - leaving firmly in place and tidy. Photo 9 shows it before I trimmed the excess rod off.
 
Photo 9)
 

 
 
 

Thanks Mike,
 
I am better with metal than wood. When I was in the first year of secondary school we had woodwork lessons. My woodwork teacher was married to my Father's cousin. ("There's distinction" as my Welsh friends would say). In one lesson my teacher said in a loud voice that "No one so bad at woodwork could possibly be a relative of his wife". From year 2 on I did Latin instead. I wasn't very good at that either!  Maths, Physics and Chemistry were my thing.   

Thank you, Ian.
 
The subject has been discussed, but basically the answer is that I use a solution of liver of sulfur for blackening copper. Almost all of the metalwork on the model is copper. Liver of sulfur does not blacken brass. With all of the knees and other metal parts secured with copper wire bolts, it is not practical to blacken everything first and avoid scraping it off in construction. Liver of sulfur affects only the copper and does not stain the wood - unless copper sanding dust is left on the surface, but I have not found that to be a problem. The solution neutralizes quickly to an inert state, but I normally wash it off with clear water immediately. The copper blackens within a few seconds. I find this to be a much more reliable method that the blue selenium based products - but sometimes they are necessary - when using brass.
 
Ed

no need for this extravagance you can just slice them off with a razor saw at the thickness needed, then just glue to sides flush with the bottom, you dont want the wheels lifting the carriage off the floor, finally you can drill a hole in the base for a secret steel or brass dowel to decure the carriage in place

Friday 28, Saturday, June 29, 2013 - Issue 22
 
Thanks to a friend I got the material of issue 22. While the work I'm doing on the Soleil Royal is very dispersive, during the frequent breaks due to waiting, I decided to start the installation of the last segment of the main deck.
 
Let's start with the beams: in the first two pictures you can see these items installed, and like the previous ones below the already installed deck segments, they are reinforced with a strip of poplar plywood of 5mm.
 
01
 
02
 
Later I started to mount the boxes that simulate the deck below. The floor is already planked, I have now to paint the inside of the two boxes to continue.
 
03
 
In the next two images, the two elements of the last deck segment positioned although obviously not yet glued. They "entered at home" without almost having to work on. . incredible.
 
04
 
05
 
Cheers. Jack.Aubrey
 
High Resolution Images:
01 http://i38.servimg.com/u/f38/12/86/14/83/p1090510.jpg
02 http://i38.servimg.com/u/f38/12/86/14/83/p1090511.jpg
03 http://i38.servimg.com/u/f38/12/86/14/83/p1090517.jpg
04 http://i38.servimg.com/u/f38/12/86/14/83/p1090512.jpg
05 http://i38.servimg.com/u/f38/12/86/14/83/p1090515.jpg

How would you like to have had the opportunity to build your first wooden or plastic model ship having spent nothing for the kit and knowing that you will have as many chances as you need to get it right without ever having to purchase the kit over again?  Uh-huh -- good luck with that!  But one of the beauties of card modeling is that you can do exactly that -- build your first model for free.  Or at least pretty close to free.
 
Many card model designers and/or publishers offer one or more free model kits.  These come in the form of a downloadable file, usually in PDF format.  You simply download the file, print out the kit on your printer using appropriate card stock, and you're off to the races!  So, technically the kit isn't completely free, since you have to buy the paper and supply the printer and ink, but you get the idea.
 
One thing to keep in mind when considering a downloadable model is that almost all designs from anywhere other than the U.S. are designed to be printed on A4 size paper.  Occasionally designers will make their designs optionally available in 8.5" by 11" format, but this is the exception rather than the rule.  U.S. modelers will need to scale their models to fit 8.5" by 11", or else print the full-size pages in multiple pieces, which wastes some paper and ink on redundant parts.
 
The nice thing about a free model is that if you ruin it during construction, you're not out of a lot of money, plus you can simply reprint one or more pages and you're back in action.
 
A WORD OF CAUTION!!  Many unscrupulous persons scan commercially available card model kits and then host them at third party file sharing sites -- these are not 'free models'.  They've been stolen.  DO NOT PATRONIZE SUCH SITES!  Not only are models obtained from such sites pirated and thus not welcome at MSW, but designing card models isn't exactly a lucrative business.  Buying card models from legitimate sources helps out our designer friends, who are very often fellow modelers as well as designers.
 
OK, so where can you download some free models?  Here are some sites to check out:
 
Models 'n' Moore:   This site offers a number of designs by the late Magnus Morck, mostly American Civil War gunboats.
Digital Navy:  The Admirable-class minesweeper has introduced many card modelers to the hobby.  A lightship, torpedo boat, and 1/700 scale HMS Dreadnought are also available.  Don't try 1/700 scale as a first card model, unless you are a masochist.
Paper Shipwright:  Several free models, of which the most detailed is the river monitor SMS Rhein.
Zioprudenzio:  Mostly Italian naval vessels in 1/400 and 1/200 scale.  Some of the smaller 1/200 models might be a first good project (no experience with them myself).  (EDIT:  Zio Prudenziati passed away in 2014, and the link to his old site no longer works.  I have been unable to find his models hosted elsewhere.)
 
There's others, but these are some of the most commonly used resources.  Give them a visit!
 
Back to Part I: What is a card model?   On to Part III: Shopping for Card Models

Hi Ian:
 
Thank for you comment.
 
Take the lead of your grandfather, and performs the Santa Maria. From heaven he will guide you. Greetings.   Juan.   My grandfather was also a carpenter. We have something in common.

Mark,
 
Welcome to our Mare's nest!
 
Before I discovered MSW my ship modeling life was blissfully simple. I had but one problem on my Corel kit. A plastic molding for the rigging did not match the diagrams, which in turn did not match the instructions. So I looked to the Web to find an answer. Result - my ship ended up with an identity crisis! I blame MSW for getting me hooked on naval research.           
 
During the 18th century there were many Unicorns. We had a British Unicorn captured by the French - who renamed it Licorne. A new British Unicorn was built only for the old one to be recaptured. 
 
I came to the conclusion that the Corel Unicorn was the British 1748 one based on the leading dimensions and armament being the closest match. The current artwork on the Corel kit box gives a date of 1790. It appears that as the age of the kit increases so does date of the prototype. I calculate at this rate that by 2040 Corel will claim that this ship was lunched at the time of Trafalgar!
 
Mike,
 
I think the lines of the portholes on the kit are determined by the line of the quarter deck which in my humble opinion is too low. The quarter deck should step up from the waist area by about 4mm which would then line them up as per the Chapman plan. 
 
If you look at the Lyme plans you will see the port holes shown as complete circles breaking above the top of the solid bulwarks. If you look closely you will also see a line above that which I interpret as rail above the open portion of the bulwark.
 
The last link you supplied was very interesting - in particular the reference to Chapman being accused of spying, that the Unicorn (1748) plans are missing and it is alleged that he stole them.   

Mike,
 
I have no plans of Lowestoft but the photos on NMM give plenty of detail. That photo of Pegasus gives a feel for how the deck area should be - in my view.
 
For the deck layout I got clues from the NMM held plans of Lyme at http://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/385550.html gives a side view. Use the "slider" to the right of the illustrated plan to zoom to maximum. If you look closely the layout of the decks, companionways etc are shown as red lines. If you then look below this plan in the "related media" box you will see a second plan. Click on this and it will give you the layout of the Upper (main gun) deck. There are differences with Unicorn which can be considered later.  
 
I filled in detail by referencing Chuck's plans for Winchelsea at http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/99-hms-winchelsea-by-chuck-1764-english-32-gun-frigate-pob-164/page-1
 
I will be attacking the waist of my Unicorn in a few weeks time. It may end up as a model of the Unicorn as it was at the wreckers yard.
 
 

Thank you, dear friends, I am pleased and appreciate your comments and congratulations a lot.
I am also glad and honoured, you like my work on Royal Caroline. I love sailing ships and that´s the reason why i like making their models.
When I have more free time I would like to create here at MSW another build log with my Royal William scratch build, that´s also a card model. Hope, you will enjoy it as well.


 
Oh, I have just remembered, there is a birthday party on Royal William, so who wants to join? Now there are only a few officers, but at night the fun begins.....
 

 
Kind regards,
Doris

Thanks once again Brian, Mark, Grant, Allan, Michael, Sjors, Tom and Caroline - much appreciated.
 
Rudder Head Partners
 
To enable the planking surrounding the rudder head to be fixed down there is a Partner either side of it, joined by a short piece aft. This was rebated into each side piece :
 

 

 

 

 
There will be a half-beam fitted either side from the partners to the quarterdeck clamps. The quarterdeck (and forecastle deck) do not have the complex Carlings and Ledges of the lower decks on this ship.
 
  Danny

Thank you Pete, both Grants, David, Matrim, Ben, Paddy and 42 Rocker!
 
Bob, Funny you say that. I've always looked to you for insperation to do my best. Thanks!
 
Ok I've spent a whle drilling hole for the treenails.
 

 
Gonna draw the treenails tonight and start plugging those holes!
 

Hi Jasseij,
 
You know the story : lots of "parlé" and in the end the captain decides ( that will be mrs. Barbossa )
Anyway, think positive :  the sooner you have this kind of debate, the sooner you ( we ) can resume shipbuilding    
 
Hi Mort and David I really appreciate your kind words
 
Here's the update regarding the bow section and in addition : to lamp or not to lamp ? It is still dry fit but I like it.
The blue strips weree made of paper that was overpainted with blue gloss ( humbrol n°14) I believe something similar needs to be done on the catheads.
And regarding the lamp , I'm planning to fix it with some extra supports on both sides (painted in black)

Wednesday, June 26th, 2013.
 
Nao "Santa María". Captain America discovery.

Thank you all for your kind words.
I'm thinking of starting a new build by the end of the summer and I'll keep in mind to take more photos of the construction...
Thanks.