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bear

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Everything posted by bear

  1. bear
    Ahoy Mates Thats getting to a tolerance that is only seen in ground steel stock.As far as ship model building what do you think of the tolerances shown above? As a tool and die maker it's nice to see this kind of consistancy in the wood sizes. I always use my dial calipers in my building of models. Using them to measure to make sure that the frames-bulkheads are on center to the keel and level to the deck. I use them since it is just how I worked on die's and tooling. What is the expectations of the ship modelers here on this site when it comes to wood sizes? Please let me know just how close you want the dimentional wood,and do you carry that into your building practices in wooden ship model building? Keith
  2. bear
    oy Mates I have been using boxwood for planking my last ship and was looking at Swiss Pear for a change in look for my next Planking. The ship is the 1/80 scale Mary Rose kit by Caldercraft. The planks will be either 1/32 or 1/16" thick by 5/32" wide. It would be the 1/32" thick if I double plank the hull or 1/16" thick if I single plank the hull. I am leaning torward the single plank with using 1/16" thick planks. I have done both single and double planking and have come to the same conclution as Chuck ,why do the same thing two times. But if the 1/16" thick swiss pear is harder to bend in this thickness ,I might have to do a double planking after all. My question for those who have used boxwood and Swiss pear for planking is: Is the Swiss Pear much different than the boxwood in planking? Is the Swiss pear harder to bend than the boxwood in either direction? or are they pretty much the same for the 1/16" thickness? Thanks Keith
  3. bear
    Hi Rick My answer on MDF is NO WAY. Plywood is still the way to go. Reason for this level of answer is that we have enough things to worry about health wise,and starting to use a KNOWN Cancer Causing substance in our hobby for no reason other than it would be just a couple dollars cheaper for the manufacturing of a kit is INSANE. And do you see Amati passing on the lower costs-NO. I am surpised that the UE would alow MDF to be used for a hobby product. With the MDF sanding dust also being a health hazzard,even if the chemicals are in "safe ranges" we do not need another possible increase in our health hazzard load as modelers. Being 62 it might not be a long term risk,but who knows how long any of us will live,and have this added exposure. I wish that I had not been exposed to asbestos where I worked back in the 1970's in our heat treating area,and also all of the acetone that I used to clean of Dyekem blueing off of die sections. And the paint thinners and paint in model making thru the years. But now I am smarter as we all must be,and we now know what we can keep out of our lungs and eyes that can realy hurt us. This is a material that doesn't have to be used,and should not be used. Now I will get off my soap box and leave it for the next builder. Plkease Rick do not go to the health dark side of kit manufaturing for just saving a small amount of dollars. Keith
  4. bear
    Hi Chuck I am glade to see that you are using laserboard instead of PE. It's easy to work with,glue and it holds paint. And after they are painted who's to know what they are made of. You must feel realy great about the laser cutter you now have and how you to creat new product to sell as you are building this ship and that you have the means to cut them. Keith
  5. bear
    Hi Chuck No,you are not crazy for drilling all those holes in the Cheerful,you are just an exalted "Holely Man Builder". As a tool and diemaker one of the first jobs I had as an apprentice was working on die's that punched holes into peg board. They would punch 3 rows of either 3/16" or 1/4" dia. holes on 1 " centers 48" or 72" wide for the hardboard sheets that you buy for your garage to hang tools on. Each die had 102 1-1/4" dia. springs ,that I had to drill the holes for into the dieset 2-1/5" deep. So I have been drilling thousands of holes thru the 44 years that I was a diemaker plus now as a model maker. But now they are quite a bit smaller in diameter. I just sit down and listen to the TV or a CD and get into the land of drilling holes and seeing how close of a perfect pattern that I can make,and just how many holes without breaking a drill bit. On my Royal Caroilne I have drilled over 8,000 holes now of .016 dia. without breaking a drill. And thats drilling into boxwood that has been coated with Testors Dullcote. Not a reacord for me,but just another week in model building. From a fellow "Holely Man" retired Toolmaker Keith from sunny Troutdale,Oregon-going to be 72 today here.
  6. bear
    Hi Chuck When will you add these little jewells to the parts for sale on the Cheerful? Just finished the treenailing on my Royal Caroline this weekend. I also have all of the Cheerful parts cut out and sitting in a drawer with all of the other parts for it in my Syren tool box just waiting for me to start on this build. Keith
  7. bear
    Ahoy Mates Other than wood,what do you use for treenailing? How do you use it? And where do you get your supply of it? I have used brass,plastic and nylon. For brass either I cut it before putting into drilled holes,or snip it off after. Using either CA or Titebond for glue. And pretty much the same for plastic. Has anyone used fishing monoflilament line? I see where it comes in various diameters and colors. And I have used Titebond and Elmers glue for filling treenail noles. Have colored the glue with acrylic paint mixed in to simulate wood and tar colors. Whats have you come up with for this labor intensive work? Keith
  8. bear
    Hi Even better would be 1/8" dia. piano wire. It will not bend like tube will. I have used it inside king posts and other ribs and frames that need the strenght. I have just drilled a hole that it will go into and glue it in place. Works great on basswood frames and bulkheads that have thin tops that are in the area that has planking that puts preasure on them. And supports them before the planking is glued to them,when you can just touch them and they will break off. Use a sharpe drill and drill the hole into the solid section at least 3 x the wire dia. or even more if possible. Keith
  9. bear
    Ahoy Mates Have a problem that I want to avoid the next time I plank. In the glue thats between the planks in the seams when using Titebond,open up when I sand and scrape the hull to shape. They then show up as white,when the sanding and scraping particals get into them. I qiute using CA because I am mildly alergic to it now,so I use Titebond. What should I do to avoid these? and how can I deal with them if I do get them ? Thanks for the help. Keith
  10. bear
    Hi John What plans are you using for your build and interior details? I have been building the Jotika 1/80 Mary Rose kit and having Rick laser cut me a 1/48 enlarged version. I have all of the Mary Roses trust books and other books for my builds. I would like to get a set of plans that you are using. Maybe they have details that my library that I have now on the Mary Rose desn't have. Sent me a PM on getting the plans. Your frames and progress looks great. I am working on my Panart 1/47 Royal Caroline until Rick gets me the decks for my 1/48 laser cut short kit that he has been working on and cutting for me. I also am working on the 1/80 Caldercraft Mary Rose kit. Keith
  11. bear
    Hi Chuck Since I have seen your moldings for over the past year,it was time for me to try some. Here's a photo of my moldings on the 1/47 Rouyal Caroline that I am building now. Looking forward to building the Cheerful. Keith
  12. bear
    Ahoy I will have to try the Sculpey myself. Here's what I was able to do for the stern moldings today. Tonight I will make the niche in the center of the windows and start on the windows. The moldings were made out of boxwood and evergreen strip material. And a photo of my shipyard supervisor, Sweet Pickels ,he loves just watching the work and the heat from the lamp. Keith
  13. bear
    Ahoy Mates I use a couple of dividers from a parts box as glue boards. They are made out of polyproeleen9sorry about spelling) nothing sticks to this plastic. Either PVA or CA. After the glue dries, I just flex the divider and the glue comes right off. I have about 3 that I use i n tag team manner. Keith
  14. bear
    Ahoy Mates Just finished another bottle 8 oz. bottle of Titebond today. Over the past year I have used up a total of 16 oz of Titeband and one 1 oz each of med. and thick CA glue bottles. I am not using CA for anything other than where I have to. Over the last year I have become sensative to its fumes. Just slows down the building, but now I do not have to pry the fingers away from a plank or two. I have found that I am building better by not having to be in a hurry to just hold it down,now I have to plan my clamping more and doing a better job at it. With CA I have found looking back at what I had done,that I was just depending on holding it in place by my hand instead of clamping,which when it did not harden fast,caused problems with it moving out of place. And using excelerator did not always work out well. I did have a fresh bottle of CA,but do not know its real age. From what I have read latly CA over time has some real problems,in hardening to a brittle point and causing thread to break from also being brittle. What has been your luck or lack of on CA,and how much do you use of these glues? And how about you finger sticking stories? Keith
  15. bear
    I used Minwax Golden Oak and Natural stains to finish my hull. On the basswood that I used and wood grained with the teeth of saw blades and xacto knife blade points to engrave the wood grain patterns ,I used the Natural stain first to keep the Golden Oak from being too dark of color. It would seal part of the wood,so that there was less of the dark stain that would go into the basswood. Keith
  16. bear
    Hi Chuck Here's what my Philadelphia looks like. I planked it with 1/32 oak veneer as the real one was made out of oak. I used .025 square evergreen plastic strip for the nails. I drilled .020 dia. holes then squared them up with a square steel punch. Then I colored the white plastic srtip with a black felt pen on the outside. Then inserted the strip into each hole with Titbond glue on them. Cut them off about .020 above the plank surface. Then I sanded them down until they were about .015 above the surface. after that I painted the ends with a Gundam Paint pen dark grey. I also stained the planks to show the staining that iron nails would have done to the oak planks. Over 2500 total of these guys inside and outside of the hull.
  17. bear
    Hi Chuck No problem here with having to make the keel. Just looking ahead to what I will have to do. Keith
  18. bear
    Hi Chuck Will the of bulheads for the Cheerful also include the keel? Thanks Keith
  19. bear
    Hi Chuck Just a coule of questions. When drilling the hole,how deep do you drill the hole? When using the awl,how far do you push it in the hole? Is it just to make sure the hole is round after sanding? And if it is just for rounding out the hole,could you just use the same size drill and just use it in reverse to round out the hole befor using the pencil lead? Thanks Keith
  20. bear
    Hi Chuck Thanks for the full lesson on what to do. Keith
  21. bear
    Hi Chuck After drilling the #78 hole,what do you fill it with? What are your steps and what do you use? Thanks Keith
  22. bear
    Ahoy Mates Looking ahead to when I have to paint the decorations on my Panart Royal Caroline build with a Gold Leaf paint color. Will be panting whatever Gold Leaf paint that will be chosen from the recomendtions from all of you. I will try out several paints recomended on sample parts. I would also like to know what you do to add depth and high lights to the Gold leaf in dry brushing or washes for the inside corners and outsdie edges. I will be painting over wood,plastic nd cast brass parts. Thanks for your help. Keith
  23. bear
    Hi Allan Here's what I finished up with as to the windows and their frames that I made out of Evergreen Plastic strip material. Strip material used: .020 X.060, .020 X .030, .030 X .030, .030 X .080, .030 X .140 and .030 sheet. The parts are on top of the 1/48 drawing in AOTS Royal Caroline. Still have to put in the window muttons in 5 of the six windows. The frames get painted gold leaf when finished. The back of the windows are 1/32 boxwood that was cut out for the window,and the window's frame was glued inside the opening in the 1/32 thick boxwood. They will be inserted into the cabin window cutout's. So much for casting the parts. Just one days labor. Keith
  24. bear
    Hi Allan The parts that I am making get painted with a blue color,so that it doesn't realy matter what they are made out of.If the parts are to be painted I use all types of materials to build with. Just as long as they will have a long life. Thanks for your questions and sugestions along with the others who have answered this posting. I just wish that I could find a great replacement for the brass castings in the kit! I know that I would pay a nice sum for a set like others who have carved theirs that are shown here on MSW. Keith
  25. bear
    Hi Allan After I posted the question,I looked up what it would take now in cost and started to carve the parts now. They are the same. They are the side window eyebrows for the cabin windows on the Panart's 1/47 Royal Caroline. I have attached a photo here of what the master. It sits on top of the drawing in the AOTS's book. I ahve made lots of masters for 1/35 tanks and conversions in the past. It's been a long time since I looked at the prices for all that is needed to resin cast. If I was looking at a lot more than 6 parts,I would do casting. Thanks for your input. Keith

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