kayakerlarry

  This seems like a reasonable question for this forum but please direct me elsewhere if appropriate.  On my model of the Howard W. Middleton, a costal coal schooner built in 1883, I have a question on how the stay sail/jib sheets were secured when they ran outside the foremast shrouds.  I have 5 separate sheets that will run outside the shrouds and belayed on the rails midship.  I don't like the way the way they look in this photo and would appreciate any thoughts on options or input on how it was actually done on coastal trade schooners of last 1800's.

 

dental tools, dental tools and dental tools...

I have built my own cases for about 5 of my models and am getting ready to build one for my current build of a scratch model of the Howard W. Middleton (see build log elsewhere on site).  Have just ordered 30' of 1/4" x 1/4" brass angle from K&S (minimum order at $3.45/ft).  Will probably use about $47 worth of brass angle.  I have a quote on a 3/4" cherry base (appox 30" x 10") for about $60.  Don't recall cost of glass but relatively minimal.  Clear aquarium type sealer on glass edges and cuts of brass ends (I haven't mastered miter edges so simple square cuts so they all join up).  Final touch of two engraved brass plaques on each side for about $10 each and there it is.   So for ~$150 all in you have yourself a very nice looking case.  Would love to hear other approaches to building cases but this has worked for me.

My first mate grand daughter prefers checking out the Howard W. Middleton's bilge rather than helping me with the ratlines - go figure....

 

Dan,

 

Very impressive for your FIRST scratch build!  I love the look of cherry.  I haven't used holly (I do have a few uncut branches in my supply...) or swiss pear but I am sure they will compliment the look.  Looking forward to see your progress.

 

Best of luck.

 

Larry

Rudolf, thanks for the comment.  I purchased the chain at Bluejacket (http://www.bluejacketinc.com).  The bowsprit chain in the picture is 36 links per inch (part number F0987) and the chain I will use for the anchor is 20 links per inch (part number F0978).  It is brass link but can be blackened with brass black toner liquid (part number PN0052).  

Cheers, Larry

Peak and throat halyards on foremast.  Think I will tackle ratlines next as I believe they will be easier to access before I tie off all the top sail running rigging.  Still believe the backstays will be last as I know I will certainly break one of the doubling crosstree pieces if I need get into the fife rail area to tie off a line.

 

Topsail decision point - decided not to use cloth sails so needed a way to show a "virtual" topsail.  Used the basics of the clew line to outline the top sail.  Pictures in "American Coastal Schooner" and details in "American Fishing Schooner" really helped.  Clew line starts at single block tied to bottom topmast hoop, up to block with hoop attached to halyard, out to end of gaff, down to single block with hoop for sheet, back to single block on mast hoop and down to port side belay point on rail.

And final progress on forward running rigging.  Does anyone have any input on proper positioning of the 5 sheets (3 stay sails and 2 balloon)?  I have run them outside the foremast shrouds as discussed in "American Fishing Schooner" but it looks pretty busy.

 

 

Final standing rigging (backstay will be last so it doesn't get in my way)...

 

 

Masts and doublings with properly served shrouds...

 

 

It's been a while since my last update.  Currently working on running rigging.  Here are a few more WIP pictures...

On a very foggy August 11, 1897 night off the coast of Maine the Howard W. Middleton was searching for a protected cove inside Richmond Island.  GPS not being what it is today, it hit a rock off of Higgins Beach, Scarborough, Maine and has spent the rest of its days there.  Today the wreck is visible at low tide and often pieces of coal appear in the ever changing sands.  I have been modeling off and on for over 30 years and have always wanted to build the Middleton but a scratch model always seemed a bit out of reach.  During my research over the years I contacted the Philadelphia Maritime Museum (the Middleton was built at Coopers Point, NJ across the river from Philadelphia) and they put me in touch with an individual (Edward Brownlee) who was interested in coastal schooners of the 1800's.  After much correspondence, Edward drew up plans of the Middleton from the original Admeasurement dated April 23, 1883.  With actual plans in hand and semi-retirement "availability" I started the model several years ago.

 

Plans from Admeasurement

 

 

August 20, 1897 - Middleton off Higgins Beach, Maine

 

 

 

Middleton Today

 

 

Model Begins Nov 2013

 

 

She was a centerboard tern

 

Planking complete/ready for painting - March 2014

 

 

Hull Painted - April 2014

 

 

Building Deck Houses - July/Dec 2014

 

 

Middleton coal fills holds

 

This one's a bit too large...

Brought down to scale...

Holds filled with scale coal from Middleton cargo...

 

 

Masting and decking - March/Sept 2015

 

 

Rudder, Fife Rails/belay pins, capstan - Nov 2015/Feb 2016

 

 

 

Bowsprit and Jib Boom - March/April 2016

 

 

 

I had the same question from my Bluejacket blocks and just found this thread.  I did a Google search and found really cool looking basswood and pear wood blocks at www.syrenshipmodelcompany.com.  Has anyone used these?  Looks like the way to go.