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shihawk

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Everything posted by shihawk

  1. Thinking the same thing and hope to get it varnished in the next couple of days
  2. Druxey ,i understand your thinking and did consider putting in a couple of extra bulkheads before first planking but as it was 1.7 thick i decided it wasn,t necessary .As i have been repairing the planks ,when i push the pin in sometimes there dosn,t seem to be a lot underneath which makes me think that a combination of cheap timber and lack of proper preparation on my part may be the problem , plus the fact that the cherry im using for the second planking was only 0.5 thick and although very easy to bend dosen,t have much strenght on it,s own . i can,t rule out humidity or direct sunlite so it could just be an unfortunate combination of everything . I now keep the ship away from the window when not working and have set a couple of bowls of water in my work place to try to prevent low humidity , Either it,s working or i have eventualy got all the springy planks fixed , of course the weather has also gotten worse so i might never know what caused it . testazyk , as you can see in the pics i simply raiseb the plank slightly with a needle and then worked some glue into the space with another needle , rubbed vigerously with a domp cloth 20 -30 times and it seemed to cure it . thanks all for your suggestions . Boyd
  3. Perfection can not be achieved in this hobby the best we can hope for is satisfaction Have Fun !!!
  4. Been thinking today as i was fixing a few more planks i didn,t use much filler on the first planking ,just leveled it and filled a couple of hollows near the bow ,The first planking was fairly level but had i used more filler and perhaps sealed i may have had a better foundation for the second planks . Another lesson learned !!!!
  5. looking great Glen ,i look forward to copper plating sometime ,or do i ???
  6. tks JOHN ,sorry i missed those David .Here,s a pic of the flags included in my kit
  7. Si ,i usually only let one side dry to sticky and the other was fresh ,and your correcr in that the need to be aligned quickly,but i perhaps mistakenly thought there was no need to clamp except at extreme bends .the first planking was obliche which is next to balsa and it could be fairly absorbent . im quite prepared to accept that i am to blame and treat it as a lesson learned and as i said it,s not that big a problem to fix but was more worried that due to my building enviorment i could have planks springing all through the build Thanks to all to took trouble to reply and i don,t think ill use this method of planking in future Boyd
  8. David ,i bought my kit from CMB ,have looked there site but no sign of flags ,so you might need to try direct to billings ,surely they could supply . if not let me know i haven,t decided if i will use my flags or not . I have never contacted billings .On the warranty there is a phone number for service in UK&IR 01903 765 496 and E-mail enquires@amerang-group.com ,my be some help ?? hope so Boyd
  9. My worry is that each time i look more seem to have appeared , im wondering if i varnished the hull would it seal it and prevent any more appearing .Idon,t think i could have missed so many spots with glue ,a few maybe but not this many
  10. I used a method i found somewhere on the site of letting the glue on the hull dry slightly and then a layer of glue on the plank also .This meant i only had to clamp on the most extreme bends . Thought it worked very well but again it could be something to do with the way i used this method although i rubbed each plank immediately with a damp cloth to remove any excess glue and then ran a piece of wood along each joint to make sure it was tight . maybe i let the first layer of glue dry to much ? will post a pic to explain better
  11. Im using titebond 2 so can,t think that,s to blame ,.Most of the planking was done earlier in the year when cooler but i noticed it more over the last month or so when it,s been much warmer . it,s only small 2-3 cm pieces of the plank that are affected and easily fixed dut im worried that im doing something wrong while planking
  12. Im sure this topic has been discussed before but i can,t find where . I recently second planked with 0.5 mm cherry being paticular and glueing both hull and plank and thought i had managed a reasonably good job but have noticed quite a number of springy planks developing over time . Not a big problem to fix but there seem to be new ones appearing every now and then and im beginning to wonder if my bad work is entirely to blame ??. My workshop is in a roofspace which in winter is very cold (not freezing) and in summer extremely warm ,our resent hot weather has meant i need to run a fan so im wondering if the extremes of tempature especialy heat could be having an effect on my planking ,also my build often sits under a roof lite ,could the direct sunlite have a damaging effect ? Im quite happy to accept that i didn,t do as good a job on the planking as i thought but wondered if anyone else had a similiar experience with heat or sunlite??
  13. I can,t believe your finished ,there must be a record of some sort for that ,and quality dosen,t seem to have suffered either . I always start a build thinking this will be my best and finish thinking if only i had done that bit better,but i think most people are the same , so your not on your own ,we are our own worst critics !! .I have enjoyed following your build and look forward to your log on the Cutty Sark ,you should be finished it for christmas when i hope to be started rigging ??? Have Fun Boyd
  14. Paulo , just wondering are you copper plating the hull??
  15. Pardon my lack of knowledge but what is marquetry??
  16. To be honest Keith im probably going to scratchbuild practicaly everything that i can ,too much plywood and i don,t like staining .I must admit i enjoy the scratching but it is very time consuming but i reckon my ultimate aim is scratch building so the sooner i start the better . I haven,t even looked at the chainplates yet but i,m game if you are , i still have cannon carriages to make etc before i fit the top deck so i,m still a long way of that stage yet .I will see how you get on and pick up a few tips so don,t patent anything .Have Fun
  17. Just posted on a discussion on wheather to paint or not to paint a Victory and made me think about some of the problems of not painting so i thought i would point out my latest. Plywood is ok for painting but when stained it can cause problems so many parts have to be replaced or venered , the keel was one of these areas . I wanted to do it the same wood as the wales but could only get 1.5 x7 mm in that wood ,this meant i had to trim the plywood keel by 1mm either side to keep it a realistic thickness and then cover sounds simple but getting around the curves proved a challenge .my first attempt failed and i then went on the theory of some thing similiar to how i thought it may have been done in real life , i have no proof if this is any where near correct but im happier with the result Dispite my best intentions work commitments has interfered greatly with my building time but only temporarily i hope so when i get the jigsaw finished i will show the outcome .Have Fun .
  18. In my limited experience and what i recall from the previous discussion there is the painting with wood theory ,where you try to duplicate the paint colors with different woods ,in fact i think this was my initial intention but i soon realised to do this properly was way beyond my ability and decided to go with the" If it looks right im happy " method . I took great comfort from a victory picture site which showed countless Victory models ,some by MSW members and everyone had there own special Victory ,some painted some not ,some with wales in authentic place and some like my own fitted to suit , some even didn,t have Victory stripes and i think that once you realise there are no hard and fast rules you start to build the model you think looks right , it may not please everyone but are you building for yourself or your audience ? Carry on CAPTAIN .
  19. I started a similiar topic a few months ago and the conclusion seems to be that everyone should please themselves , My preference is no paint but i must admit some of the painted builds on this site are fantastic . Im building a Billings Victory at present and intend to keep a natural finish,feel free to look at my log ,any suggestions will be welcome , I have just about finished the second planking and one problem is that when not using paint plywood parts either have to be replaced or venered and unfortunately there are a lot of plywood pieces in the Billings version , but i still believe it can be done .Have Fun Boyd
  20. Now you know why my Cruiser sits half rigged , Had the same problem with my previous build and rushed in the end to get it finished ,not a good idea !! stick at it if you don,t finish it no-one else will
  21. Sounds like a big project remember once you put the masts on you may need a roof extension .but the raising workbench seems a great idea . almost got caught in a roofspace with a small door opening ,but you seem to have everything well covered .Good luck with your build i will be following Have Fun!!
  22. Have you ever used Dibetou or Manzonia ,in my opinion much easier to work with than walnut and readily available from CMB .Maybe costly but you won,t need that much . Just a thought !! Boyd.
  23. No problem ordering more timber from CORNWALL MODEL BOATS .Look under timber on there site ,top of the list with Billings in brackets you should have in acouple of days .i have found them a good supplier for nearly everything . Boyd
  24. It can take a long time to get the planks right , fortunately these are plenty thick which leaves a lot of room for sanding ,but don,t use that as an excuse . have you researched steelers etc they can be very usefull if you get into a tight spot
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