Old Collingwood
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Everything posted by Old Collingwood
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Yep, the other side is fine, I have just this moment gone down stairs (as its night here now) and put a coat of micro sol over the affected decal/s I will check them in a couple of hours to see if (by miracle) the micro sol has worked - not holding my breath though. The problem is that top coat of Tamiya Laquer is key as it will either stop me working on the decal, or if I decided to try to remove the decal using tape to pull it off - I think the laquer will stop it or at worst pull a larger area of paint and laquer with it. OC. -
Tell me about it - its like its a jinxed plane, the funny thing is all the other decals are just fine - nice and flat and blended down with the flat laquer. Its not an easy operation by any standards even holding the thing while spraying is fiddly then the blast from the rattle can, trying to control that is impossible, I have to do it freehand as I have no way of spraying into a booth or rotate the model on a turntable. Who ever said modeling was easy (well the painting side anyway) OC.
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That car looks loverly - really nice job. OC.
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Thank you for having a look - much appreciated. OC.
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Hi all, I spent a bit of time on mossie to day, the rear stab was nice and dry so I gave it a few watery coats of Acrylic grey by brush - all good, I then took off the masking and noticed the main decal on the one side had crackled, the trouble is there is a coat of laquer flat coat that was sprayed over the top, would micro sol work on it to smooth it out even though there is a coat of laquer over the top of it. Looks quite bad and spoils what has turned out to be a good finish. OC.
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Some good detail on that hull should look great weathered. OC.
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She is looking really nice certainly coming to gether now. OC.
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I agree with Scott - wondeful work, and may I say that quarter deck gives such a large impression of space. OC.
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Only Tammy surface primer. OC.
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All masked up and no were to go. OC.
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And those wing leading edges (yep I felt one up close in a museum - they are sharp and need covers). Pic off the net. OC.
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Thank you kindly mate, Yep I think it will look quite nice in that scheme. OC.
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Thanks Joe, will do as I said to EG, give it a few days and check with my nose. OC.
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Thanks mate, I will let my nose be the key. OC.
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Your doing a great job mate, I remember those individual tracks on a T72 I once built (bloody fiddly) OC.
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Gotha G.lV by ErnieL - Wingnut Wings - 1/32 - PLASTIC
Old Collingwood replied to ErnieL's topic in Completed non-ship models
Nothing wrong with that, you should have seen my first 1/48 kit the famous (for all the wrong reasons) Tamiya Sea Harrier, I even built Three of them over the years could not get any of them even close to passable. OC. -
Does anyone know how long you need to wait between spraying a Tamiya Laquer paint rattle can, and being able to hand paint a layer of Acrylic paint ontop, I know its safe this way round but dont know If I need to wait for the Laquer to Fully de gas first (no worries if I have to wait as I have other jobs on hand) OC.
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I remember reading somewhere about NASA uisng one as a chase plane for SR71 and other experimenatl aircraft, wasn't it to do with sustained speed and acceleration? OC.
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"Come on lads - popcorns arrived".................Rush............... OC.
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Love the weathering on that rolling gear very life like. OC.
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Evening all. some good progress today - first I worked on the stabs, they needed a bit of scribing then they were glued in place, next was the rudder - not much fuss just glued straight on, next I worked on the cockpit glazing this was masked using tamiya tape, I placed a larger than needed piece onto glazing then cut away the excess, after completing the nose glazing and rear section they were then glued down. Here are a few pics also showing my other spit (that wanted to get in on the photo shoot). OC.
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Count me in. OC.
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There is always a way round things dount loose faith every hurddle has twice as many outcomes. OC.
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