robdurant

During the weekend I made wooden finish of the hull using foil stripes. Later, it will be modificated with darker colours and of course I will create treenails and pins in wooden planks as well.
 

I decided it was time to try and belie my handle, and - for my second from-scratch model - build something whose beauty resides in its woodwork as well as its lines. I.e. the finish has to be perfect.
Some history of the Riva Aquarama:
"I’ve decided that the most jaw-dropping, eye-watering, hand-biting man-made spectacle of all time is the 1965 Riva Aquarama speedboat.. Oh, and it’ll do 50 mph."
Jeremy Clarkson. I Know You Got Soul.
"The Riva Aquarama was a luxury wooden runabout built by Italian yacht builder Riva. Production of it ... ran from 1962 until 1996. The hull was based on the Riva Tritone, an earlier model speedboat by Riva, which in turn was inspired by the American mahogany Chris-Craft runabouts. The boat's speed, beauty, and craftsmanship earned it praise as the Ferrari of the boat world.
The Aquarama has become over the decades a nautical legend. The Riva Aquarama's 8.02 - 8.78 metre[ hull was sheathed in mahogany and varnished to accentuate the beauty of its natural wood grain. All versions were twin engined, with top speeds of 45/50 knots depending on engine choice. Power varied from 185 hp to 400 hp per engine delivered by Riva 'tuned' Cadillac and Chysler models, among others. On top of the engine compartment was a cushioned sundeck. The boats also carried a convertible roof which retracted behind the rear seat and cockpit. A swim ladder was often mounted in the stern."
Wikipedia Riva Aquarama
Owners have included
Stewart Granger, John Barry, Rex Harrison, Peter Sellers, Brigitte Bardot, Karl Heineken, Sophia Loren, Joan Collins, President Nasser, Victor Borge, King Hussein, Ferrucio Lamborghini, Prince Rainier, Roger Vadim and Richard Burton.
 
There are plenty still on the second-hand market. This is the most expensive one I've found:

I've finally let the moths out of my wallet and purchased a small scroll saw (Dremel).
The plans I have call for a build about 70 cm long. I had to reduce the originals by about 20% so that the rib spacing (3 ribs) could be spanned by a single popsicle stick. But a consequence of the largish scale is that a single stick wouldn't span the width of most ribs. So rather than making plywood out of multiple sticks and cutting them to shape (as for my previous build) I had to build the ribs rather in the shape of the plans. The largest rib has 23 individually cut pieces. Making them would have been impossible without the scroll saw.

I'm amazed that I just spent about 30 minutes measuring and cutting and sanding  a short stub of a plank just to get it to fit just so, and when this model is finished and rigged....no one, including me, will ever turn the ship upside down to check that planking. What a crazy lot we are.

I've just planned for tapering the veneer planks. It looks like a minimum of tapering will be needed to fit all the planks at this stage.

A brief update... and a little milestone!
 
I finished first planking on the starboard side... Now I'm working down the port side.
 

 
And here she is on her new stand - not perfect, but it's nice and solid, and it'll do for building purposes.
 

 
Thanks for looking in and the likes and encouragement

A brief update... and a little milestone!
 
I finished first planking on the starboard side... Now I'm working down the port side.
 

 
And here she is on her new stand - not perfect, but it's nice and solid, and it'll do for building purposes.
 

 
Thanks for looking in and the likes and encouragement

A brief update... and a little milestone!
 
I finished first planking on the starboard side... Now I'm working down the port side.
 

 
And here she is on her new stand - not perfect, but it's nice and solid, and it'll do for building purposes.
 

 
Thanks for looking in and the likes and encouragement

It's been a while since my last update, and lots has happened, so here's an update.
 
Deck planking
 
I completed the gun deck, with 1mm maple. I'm pleased with how this has come out, and I'll be wiser when I start the quarter deck later on in the build. Replacing the wood seems to have been a good choice, not least, because I've been able to vary the widths of the planking to reflect the real ship more truly.
 

 

Inner planking for gundeck
 
I pre-painted the gundeck inner walls red using the admiralty paints and installed them.
 

 
Stern
 
Using Ray and Beef Wellington's logs as a guide, I approached this part of the build with trepidation. Only time will tell whether I've got it right, but I used scans of the plans as templates as others have done before me to line up the parts for the stern. So far, it doesn't look too bad!
 


Once the stern parts were in place, I opened up the area where the keel former would go to take a wider stern post from boxwood.
 


 
 
First hull planking
 
This is in 1.5mm by 6mm lime. It's lovely wood, actually. Really sharp and easy to form. I filled at the bow and the stern with balsa to act as a support for some of the more complex curves that this hull contains.
 


 
I started putting a plank on each side (to prevent the keep getting twisted) and once I reached where the gun deck was, I marked the frames and the gun port positions (The height of the port rises slightly at the back (between 21 and 25mm from the gun deck)) before I lost the frames as a reference behind the planking.
At present the gun ports are marked out as they will look when framed, so the holes made will need to be larger. This has helped in terms of understanding where the bulkheads meet up with the gun ports. (For some of the gun ports, one side of the port frames will be bulkhead.)
 
I've used a mix of plank nippers and boiling water to edge bend the planks so they aren't forced round the corners. After reaching roughly the point where the wale is, I started to work all the way down on the starboard side. Here's the progress so far.
 

 
 

Thanks for the likes
 
I’ve added the 7mm waterways, and continued planking with 3mm from the centre out towards the edge. To do this I needed to find a way of cutting a whole bunch of 3mm planks to the same length. I used a template with a stanley knife blade, hitting it with a hammer, to cut the planks one by one. This was surprisingly effective and quick, and I’ve been very pleased with the results. The template was made using "display case section" offcuts stuck onto a ply offcut. I used the display case section because I had it left over... the advantage being that it's nice and square, reasonably cheap (from Cornwall Model Boats) and a good size for this stuff... and they can be quickly and easily glued with carpenters glue.
 
Hopefully the following pictures are fairly self-explanatory. It's probably worth saying that if you're going to hit a stanley knife blade with a hammer, please wear safety goggles!
 

 

 

 
Once cut, the 3mm planks aren’t very sharp on the edges, so I made a second template to sand them to size… this was a head-scratcher, because I wanted the planks to end up exactly 3mm wide… eventually, I settled on using 1.5mm plasticard glued together with plastic-weld… This allowed me to make two sides (one fixed, and the other floating) that could be put on each side of a stack of planks… One edge was flattened using a scraper, and then the planks were turned over to scrape the other side to get the width down to 3mm.
 

 

 

 

 
The pressure of the scraper and a hand holding the floating side of the template in place was sufficient to get the job done...
Once scraped, I edged all the planks with a sharpie marker.
Here are the results...
 

 
Once I got to the edge of the top and butt planking, I started adding these in. I’ve been using Shipyard Sid’s template to do this, and it’s been extremely helpful.
 

 
I’m almost finished on the port side, then it’ll be the same again to complete the deck.
 
Here are the results so far... Not perfect, but it hasn't been scraped yet, so I'm pretty happy. The caulking should tone down a little bit when it's scraped, and I'm aiming for the newly built look, so I don't mind if it's fairly dark.
 

 

 

 

 
That's it for now
 
Happy building
 
Rob
 
[edited to restore photos, 11, 13 July 2017]
 
 

Hi All,
 
I'm back!  I took a little break but am now back in the shop and going strong. 
 
530 hours into the journey.  I decided to shift away from the hull work and tackle a little of the inside.  I had several reasons, the real one being that I needed a change of scenery.  That being said, I wanted to stiffen the hull before doing final sanding.  To do that, I laid the keelson, ceiling planks, crutches and breast hooks.  I then built up part of the magazine while I was on a roll.

Ed suggests building the forward magazine while off the model.  I think this was a great idea and it allowed me to work freely at the bench.  At some point, the magazine will be installed, but first I need to lay the orlop deck beams.  There is a critical relationship here that you need to get right.  My version of the magazine has simple detail elements.  I decided not to treenail at the lower depths and decided to simplify the number of beams on the sb side.  This being said, I will increase the detail as I climb.  I enjoyed making the magazine substructure. It was a unique challenge.  And, looks much better to the naked eye - these photos are unforgiving.  I wanted clean detail, but I am not obsessing on my work here.  The black area is simulated charcoal.  I simply took 500 grit wet sandpaper and applied it here.  I doubt you will be able to see it on the finished model, but thought it would be a nice detail to discuss.

The ceiling planks were a special challenge when it came to clamping.  I made great use of the gantry system when securing these planks.  Its amazing how stiff the hull is with these structures in place.  While I would not want to step on the model, it does give you appreciable insight into the durability of the actual ship. 
As I reflect further on building an extreme POF ship, one of the many things I like about it is that you don't simply glue pieces together, but rather think about how they would have worked together on the real ship.  My skills have improved since I have been forced to think differently about the ship.
 
Hope to have more soon!
 
All the best, Gary

Shipyard Update
Mizzen Mast Shrouds and Stay:
Been slow going, checking and preparing ropes sizes and making the ends.
 
Mizzen Shrouds:
Shrouds made and hoisted at-top the mizzen mast.
All just clear the top rail either side, just how they should be.


 
Mizzen Stay:
Made the Mouse on the serving machine(with mouse jig) and looped for the top of the stay.

Hoisted the stay in place.


 
3 years and 1 month after starting the build:
An side on view of the 3 Lower Masts hoisted with Shrouds and Stays on.
I believe I can now see the light at the end of the tunnel ahead.

 
 
 
Dave R

I did some more sanding and filling, working tiny amounts on the bow face and shaping the bell the way I want it.
I had that done by 11 a.m. and feel guilty (haha) not working on the superstructure today. But hey, her 1:1 wasn't built in a day. Slow & steady

More work on the stern and transom. This is a multimedia build in sure some puritans will be aghast by haha but I I like to use materials I feel are right for the job. So on the stern is a mixture of brass, wood, plastic formed strips, modeling clay and wire. For the deadlight glass I used a fogged acetate sheet with a light sky blue painted on the back piece. Glass especially at this time wasn't the clear crystal we look through today so I think the acetate sheet works well. This is the same stuff I will use for the quarter galleries. From paintings and the contemporary models of 17th century British ships the framing looks more to be lead strips as in the lead glass windows so will use thin strip in a cross thatched pattern for these. I've also left the Prince of Wales feathers white and will paint the three British coat of arms - the one on the stern and both quarter galleries - in the correct colours. Again going by the contemporary models from the time which while covered in gilding the coat of arms and feathers seem to always be highlighted with paint. 

Thank you very much guys
 
I also believe modeling is an art form. I've always enjoyed art and modeling and I believe they go hand in hand. Modeling is just another medium for creating art, as my gf says I will leave this world a prettier place by producing these model ships. I know, she's a keeper haha 😂 
 
I have to say I doubt I'll build another ship with this level or ornamentation and to be honest I was always scared off as much as being eager to build her. 
 
What i I love about forums such as these is what knowledge we all can learn and share. Whether we take everything onboard or pick and choose, I know I follow many builds to see how other builders tackle items and to see if there is something I've yet to try, and trust me there always is!

Another update on the quarter galleries. Still a few more decorations to finish, and the simulated lead window glass - I'll use acetate sheet for this. I've also included a photo with the kit included turrets on top. The shape of these are pretty good however the roof tops have open holes in them and in reality had guilded shingles. 

Thanks. I do feel blessed to be making this kit

Shipyard Update
 
Fore-stay:
I had the fore Stays looped over(on top of) the shroud loops like this:

However I believe after some investigation they should be like this(resting lower and more around the sides of the shrouds):
Hope I have it right now.

MIZZEN MAST
And the Mizzen, have made and added the Burton Pendants. The picture on the left is of the Endeavour Replica, Mizzen Pendants.

Mizzen Pendants on my model:

 
Onto the mizzen shrouds next.
 
 
Dave R

Looking great! And an interesting vessel to choose to build. I built this kit quite a few years ago and until my recent and current built of my Sovereign it was my favorite build and by far the nicest kit I've built. I'll follow with interest

It's been a while since my last update, and lots has happened, so here's an update.
 
Deck planking
 
I completed the gun deck, with 1mm maple. I'm pleased with how this has come out, and I'll be wiser when I start the quarter deck later on in the build. Replacing the wood seems to have been a good choice, not least, because I've been able to vary the widths of the planking to reflect the real ship more truly.
 

 

Inner planking for gundeck
 
I pre-painted the gundeck inner walls red using the admiralty paints and installed them.
 

 
Stern
 
Using Ray and Beef Wellington's logs as a guide, I approached this part of the build with trepidation. Only time will tell whether I've got it right, but I used scans of the plans as templates as others have done before me to line up the parts for the stern. So far, it doesn't look too bad!
 


Once the stern parts were in place, I opened up the area where the keel former would go to take a wider stern post from boxwood.
 


 
 
First hull planking
 
This is in 1.5mm by 6mm lime. It's lovely wood, actually. Really sharp and easy to form. I filled at the bow and the stern with balsa to act as a support for some of the more complex curves that this hull contains.
 


 
I started putting a plank on each side (to prevent the keep getting twisted) and once I reached where the gun deck was, I marked the frames and the gun port positions (The height of the port rises slightly at the back (between 21 and 25mm from the gun deck)) before I lost the frames as a reference behind the planking.
At present the gun ports are marked out as they will look when framed, so the holes made will need to be larger. This has helped in terms of understanding where the bulkheads meet up with the gun ports. (For some of the gun ports, one side of the port frames will be bulkhead.)
 
I've used a mix of plank nippers and boiling water to edge bend the planks so they aren't forced round the corners. After reaching roughly the point where the wale is, I started to work all the way down on the starboard side. Here's the progress so far.
 

 
 

I'm pre-bending the stern trim to be installed later. I'm still preparing the inner gunwales to be planked.

It's been a while since my last update, and lots has happened, so here's an update.
 
Deck planking
 
I completed the gun deck, with 1mm maple. I'm pleased with how this has come out, and I'll be wiser when I start the quarter deck later on in the build. Replacing the wood seems to have been a good choice, not least, because I've been able to vary the widths of the planking to reflect the real ship more truly.
 

 

Inner planking for gundeck
 
I pre-painted the gundeck inner walls red using the admiralty paints and installed them.
 

 
Stern
 
Using Ray and Beef Wellington's logs as a guide, I approached this part of the build with trepidation. Only time will tell whether I've got it right, but I used scans of the plans as templates as others have done before me to line up the parts for the stern. So far, it doesn't look too bad!
 


Once the stern parts were in place, I opened up the area where the keel former would go to take a wider stern post from boxwood.
 


 
 
First hull planking
 
This is in 1.5mm by 6mm lime. It's lovely wood, actually. Really sharp and easy to form. I filled at the bow and the stern with balsa to act as a support for some of the more complex curves that this hull contains.
 


 
I started putting a plank on each side (to prevent the keep getting twisted) and once I reached where the gun deck was, I marked the frames and the gun port positions (The height of the port rises slightly at the back (between 21 and 25mm from the gun deck)) before I lost the frames as a reference behind the planking.
At present the gun ports are marked out as they will look when framed, so the holes made will need to be larger. This has helped in terms of understanding where the bulkheads meet up with the gun ports. (For some of the gun ports, one side of the port frames will be bulkhead.)
 
I've used a mix of plank nippers and boiling water to edge bend the planks so they aren't forced round the corners. After reaching roughly the point where the wale is, I started to work all the way down on the starboard side. Here's the progress so far.
 

 
 

Well the brig is now hitting the rigging stage and I have now placed the standing rigging as per the plans, I have been looking at other builds to see any additions others may have worked out for extra rigging and am adding where I can. 
 
Im now planning the running rigging and have had to place blocks in new positions due to me not thinking ahead. But I'm pleased so far and it's just nice seeing a box of wood become something in the end. Cheers all
 
terry

I've taken advantage of a bit of nice weather to get her out side for some full on sanding.
 

And Port.
I always leave strakes over length until after the majority of sanding has been done, you can see them here at the Beakhead Bulkhead.
I find that there can be a tendency when sanding to 'drop off' the end edge, that then leaves an unwanted thinned section / radius.
This way you can trim afterwards and keep a consistent surface.
 

Similar on the end of the strakes at the stern.

 

OK that's most of the heavy duty sanding done.
I will do some more finer sanding later.
So back inside.

Here's a bit of a close up.
I added simulated sheaves into the shells.
But the sanding has taken off a bit of the radius so I have dug them out and will redo them later.
I'm pretty pleased with the planking so far and loving the hard maple.
Also happy with the results of the paper caulking, it gives a nice consistent line, especially after sanding.

A shot on the Bow.

Time to get onto tree nailing.
I mulled over the decision a lot earlier on but decided to nail based on the look of Chuck's results.
Here is a bunch of holes being drilled, I stopped short of the area's that will get painted, no point in wasting effort.
Some of these were filled previously to check the look.
I am finding it difficult to pick a filler to use, I only want a very subtle different shade not an obvious black dot.
But what was really weird was my problem was the reverse of what I expected.
I have so far bought three different natural/pine/light wood fillers and tried them out.
But they are all really good matches to the maple.
Two of them to the extend that you cant actually see the 'nails' unless you get really close.
So I need to continue to look and find one a little off shade.
Mind you the filler that is such a good match will have some benefits 

And continuing along (someone switched the lights out!!)

I admit I was not looking forward to drilling thousands of very little holes at all.
But thanks to MSW I read a post about a little drill, actually for manicures.
So I hunted a through a big range on Amazon and picked one that is USB rechargeable, three speed and with a proper collett arrangement (many have just a pinch screw)
It was quite cheap really, about £20.
And I have to say it's a complete joy.
Very light, you hold it like a pen so has loads of control.
Takes my shanked drills, charge hold ages.
I shot through the drilling, a full side was three evenings work, about 4 hours.
Here is the item in question, the charging lead comes out obviously.
 

 
That's me about up to date.
Thanks for stopping by
 
Nick
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Measured and estimated, drawings could detail this feature much better, time will tell.

Here I'm bending and twisting a plank in several directions so it will easily fit on the hull. Most of the planks from now on will need the same treatment.