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Stuntflyer

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  1. Stuntflyer
    Thanks, Erik! The great work of yours and others has inspired me to do better. One of the things Chuck said that stood out in my mind was about how slowly he works and I know it's something that you do too? I started doing this in the last year and I'm glad I did. It seems like every time I start to speed things up the results end up being disappointing. Mike
  2. Stuntflyer
    Thank you, druxey! Spreading it out over a four day period made it easier to digest. Oh, I almost forgot. . I used the same striping tape here as I did on the rudder. It was cut to a width of 3/32". The eyebolts are made from 24 gauge black annealed wire. I still need to darken the inside of the sheave and Poly the bowsprit.
  3. Stuntflyer
    The making and fitting of the bowsprit proved to be a very interesting project along with a few challenges along the way. . The square stick was marked off on opposite sides every two inches for the length of the bowsprit. Using the plan as a guide a 7-10-7 tapered template was used to mark the bowsprit width at each of the 2 inch locations. Then a ships curve was used to join these marks along the entire length of the bowsprit. The disc sander was used to remove the wood outside the tapered line. The process was repeated on the two remaining sides. Using my hobby vise, which now has removable rubber jaws, the bowsprit was filed down to achieve the octagon shape. Care was taken not to file past the lines while keeping the surfaces as flat as possible. The bowsprit was rounded off, a task easily accomplished using the "shoe shine" technique with sandpaper. So far so good, I thought. . Fitting the bowsprit into the hull proved to be a very time consuming process. The bowsprit has to be slid over the deck fittings at a downward angle. Once clear it can be lowered into the bowsprit bit. Problem was, the bowsprit was rubbing on the bottom of the pin rail at the bow making it difficult to move it forward. I had no choice other than to remove the pin rail. Once the hole was completed, the end of the bowsprit could be lowered into the bit. The hole shape was close though there was a bit too much slop where it exited the hawse plate. This was unacceptable, so I removed the plate and made a new one after the bowsprit was affixed to the bit. This proved to be another challenging task as the plate becomes very fragile as the hole is enlarged. I fixed the hole fit inside the hull with some filler and paint. I added a new pin rail from thinner 1/32" sheet which now sits flush with the cap rail. It goes to show that there must be some measurement which was slightly off thus making it difficult to do what would seem to be a straight forward task. Anyway, I'm happy with the result overall.
  4. Stuntflyer
    Beautiful job, Thomas! The additional work makes it unique. Mike
  5. Stuntflyer
    It's always good to have Druxey around helping to keep us on the right path. Mike
  6. Stuntflyer
    Thank you very much, again! Matt, I profiled my camera for indoor lighting yet color correction is still sometimes needed. I guess I should blame the camera. WYZWYK, Photos are great for covering up "slight imperfections". druxey, I bet that you have a shoe box full of those cartoons. Keep 'em coming. Mike
  7. Stuntflyer
    What's that old adage, "measure twice cut once". That's what I should have done while making the bowsprit. Luckily Jason over at Crown Timberyard had another stick to send me. That's my next project. Meanwhile the bowsprit step is now painted and in temporary position. I still need to weather the windlass gears, while being careful not to get any of the powder on the deck. Should be fun. Matt, if your looking in, This is closer to what the deck color really looks like.
  8. Stuntflyer
    Thanks guys! I've been recovering from some back issues, hence the late reply. Matt, I'm using Winsor & Newton "Crimson" red mixed with their "Burnt Umber" in a ratio of 10 to 1. For the black, I'm using Grumbacher "Mars Black". I started with the same color from W&N before switching to Grumbacher. For some unknown reason It goes on smoother and dries better than the same color from W&N. Looking at the photos I see why you would think that I'm using Holy for the deck. Nope, the deck is Boxwood with some Wipe-on-Poly applied. Mike
  9. Stuntflyer
    Hello everyone! Just a small update. The Quoin handles are now on the carriages. They are very small measuring 3/64" wide and 1/8" long. They were turned on the Dremel from 8mm boxwood belaying pins purchased from Model Shipways (also sold by Amati). The bowsprit step is scratched using Chuck's method as a guide. The only difference being that the beam holes in the middle post were drilled oversize 3/32", thus making it easier to file the square holes on the two outer posts. Some red paint, pins and washers will be added to complete the part.
  10. Stuntflyer
    Moving along. . . Still need to scratch the bowsprit step and then hopefully onto the bowsprit.
  11. Stuntflyer
    Got a few more tasks completed before I move onto completing the gun tackle. The pumps were made from Chuck's kit and the winch was scratch built. I had a blast while working on the winch. It consists of 12 separate pieces of wood. These parts are shown here in temporary position only and will be removed before I start to work on the gun tackle. I don't trust myself working in tight areas around somewhat fragile parts.
  12. Stuntflyer
    Coming along nicely, Brian I boxwood framed the forward chase ports too. I did it mainly to get a clean looking port instead of relying on having to shape the ply fillers. Either way, I think it would look fine since the port is thin enough to mask any minor shaping errors. Mike
  13. Stuntflyer
    Thank you all for the comments and "Likes". To make the mast coat a boxwood disc was centered to the face of a Dremel sanding wheel with a drop of CA, spun at fast speed while filing in the shape. Afterwards, the part was soaked in acetone to release it from the wheel. The mast sits at a 4° angle, as near as I can measure. To allow the mast to tilt, I used a round emery sanding stick grit #2 inserted thru the bottom of the mast coat. Because the stick is tapered, I was able to remove material without damaging the top of the mast coat. http://www.esslinger.com/round-emery-sanding-sticks/ A 13/32" drill was used to check the angle.
  14. Stuntflyer
    I guess I have been slackening off a bit lately, but I have somehow managed to work on a number of different Cheerful projects at the same time. Here is the first update. The carriages were rigged with the 3mm blocks. I still need to finish off the rope and do the coils. The rudder was scratch built. The straps were made from Chucks kit, using the thinner laser board and not the thicker wood straps. I used 24 gauge wire for the nails. After trying the wire on the rudder, I decided to try and find something that didn't require painting afterwards. Remembering something I had read on one of EdT's build logs, I was able to find black monofilament on Amazon with the suitable thickness. The hull strap nails were done with the mono. I found it much easier to work with, at least for me. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PA9MRFC/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1. In addition, the tiller was completed. I used striping tape (razor cut on glass to 1/16") for the straps around the tiller. This tape was easy to work with, has a flat finish and is hi-tack as well. Both parts will be permanently attached after I finish the carriage rigging
  15. Stuntflyer
    Bob, Can you please tell me what the overall base dimensions are? Mike
  16. Stuntflyer
    FWIW, I have found that lightly scraping the char edge with a #11 blade just enough to lighten the char (remove the loose stuff only) leaving some of it there on the edge, works nicely. Mike
  17. Stuntflyer
    I think it would be fair to say that Chuck is doing more than just simply writing instructions. He is giving us insights regarding his approach to model building. He is guiding us into thinking differently about the way in which we might build our models. In doing so, he takes his instructions to a higher level which benefits all of us seeking to be better modelers. Mike
  18. Stuntflyer
    Thanks Johann, Your videos are fantastic! Beautiful work indeed. Mike
  19. Stuntflyer
    Thank you for the comments and "Likes" Brian - The photo below shows pretty much how I set things up. The wood spacer is 3/32" deep with a tab on each end to help keep it flat on the deck. The pins are about 1/16" long and filed flat and to equal lengths. Once the gun is aligned it's only a matter of creating the indents into the masking tape. When pressing down I found that a rocking motion (side to side) works better than just pressing straight down. The indent will be very shallow yet still visible for drilling. To allow a little wiggle room I made the holes a few thousandths oversize. Honestly though, It's a time consuming process that one might find unnecessary. Though not shown in the previous post, I have since re-positioned the two guns at the stern that were slightly off center to the port openings. The pins were removed and they were just glued to the deck without any issues.
  20. Stuntflyer
    I made a little progress over the past week. Managed to get the carronades on the deck along with the breech ropes. I decided to go through the process of pinning the rear trucks to the deck with 24 gauge wire. I really took my time here for fear of making an unsightly mistake. Though not necessary to do this, the process was an interesting one and I learned a few tricks along the way.
  21. Stuntflyer
    All of the parts for the carriages, guns and gun tackle are completed. I assembled the first of the carronades to see how the breech rope looks. If something is not right, please let me know before I get started on the remaining ones. The guns where first given a spray coat of etching primer. As it is not recommended to place the paint directly to the etching primer, the guns were then sprayed with Krylon Gray primer before spraying on Badger "Model Flex" Engine Black paint. Final color was achieved using Doc O'Brien's Rusty Brown weathering powder. I deviated slightly on the capsquare simulated hinge arrangement. I used 24 gauge wire instead of 28 gauge. The wire is placed up against and behind the capsquare making for easy placement of the wire. Although slightly thicker, you really can't tell since the capsquare thickness makes it look smaller than it is. The quoin handle will go on later.
  22. Stuntflyer
    Very nice, Brian! Mike
  23. Stuntflyer
    Better to be BBQing, hiking, biking and Cheerfuling. looking forward to your updates. Mike
  24. Stuntflyer
    Hi Mike, Would bamboo be easier to draw than boxwood? Instead of brass nails maybe you could use copper. I would think that you could file the nails down if you used a #0 or #2 flat riffler without damaging the hull. http://www.ottofrei....nd-LR12711.html. Anyway, just a thought Mike
  25. Stuntflyer
    Looking great, Ken. I see no reason why those belaying pins would break as long as you don't pull too hard on them when rigging. What "wood hardener" are you referring to? Mike

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