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Stuntflyer

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Everything posted by Stuntflyer

  1. Stuntflyer
    Movin right along, Rusty. Looks good to me! You could just tape it off and skip the freehand.
  2. Stuntflyer
    Looking very good! Had the same problem only I'm glad you were able to catch and fix the over faired area early on. Those pesky stern gun ports tested my patience as well. Mike
  3. Stuntflyer
    Over the past few days I managed to get the seats shaped and the channels installed. The holes for the seats were drilled using 5/32" O.D brass tubing. After placing the tubing in a hand drill, a #11 blade was used to taper and sharpen the inside of the tubing to a sharp edge. The tubing was placed in a drill press for drilling. Both sides of the seats were drilled at the same time for uniformity. Making them and fitting them was time consuming and a bit fiddly, but worth the effort. The seats will be spray painted off the ship along with the other inboard stern details. . I'm going to notch the channels after double checking the angle of the chain plates in relationship to the hole markings in the wales. The eyebolts were formed from black 22ga. wire. To avoid having to use oversize holes in the channels the eyebolts were made by a simple shaping of the wire. A tiny notch was filed into the channel to allow the eyebolt to sink in a bit. Since the wire was not twisted, I used 3 hour Epoxy to glue them in.
  4. Stuntflyer
    I wish I had thought of this when I was at this stage, Rusty. Mike
  5. Stuntflyer
    Thanks guys! It feels good to be able to work on the ship without all the saw dust. druxey, I don't think that pinning the windlass is needed here. Mike
  6. Stuntflyer
    Just a small update. . After applying a coat of W-O-P to the deck I decided that it was a good time to attach the windlass. The most important thing was to get the windlass centered and parallel to the other deck structures like the coaming directly behind it. Varying plank widths at the bow meant that I couldn't use those joints as an additional guide for alignment. With this in mind and not trusting my eye, I decided to make a jig. The jig was made from a stick ripped to the width of the distance from the coaming to the back of the windlass. Vertical pieces were then glued to the stick for the windlass to back up to. After heat bending the jig was I taped it down to the deck against the forward edge of the coaming. Aligning the windlass was a simple matter of centering it and backing it up to the jig while holding it down for a few minutes until the glue set. Still need to clean up some of the dust remaining inside th ports.
  7. Stuntflyer
    Thanks guys! Your coments and "Likes" are very much appreciated. Now its back to sanding! Mike
  8. Stuntflyer
    Hello Everyone, Normally I like to do a final sanding and a coat of W-O-P before posting. Today I'm just too excited as I have finally finished all the deck planking. Much of it was done with the aid of Dewalt Trigger Clamps. As space became tight I reverted to using wedges cut from 1/16" basswood or scrap boxwood sheet. The wedges allow for as much pressure as needed to close gaps. PVA was used throughout. The Bulwarks where masked of to prevent any damage to the red paint. As you can see in the photos, I have started sanding the starboard side. There is much more to do so I will spend the next day or two finishing up. Will post some photos once the W-O-P is applied. Yippee!
  9. Stuntflyer
    I like the tool you made for drawing the reference line.
  10. Stuntflyer
    A milestone for sure, Bob. It really does look great with all the deck fittings in place. Looking forward to your posts on rigging.
  11. Stuntflyer
    Great start Deon, I will be following. . . Mike
  12. Stuntflyer
    Great to see you building again Rusty. I've had a great time building Cheerful and I'm sure that you will too. Please keep those photos coming. Mike
  13. Stuntflyer
    I'm smiling too Mike. Nice fairing work!
  14. Stuntflyer
    This is definately a first for me Druxey. I have never had the pleasure of following any of your build logs. Let's just say that I'm very excited to see this one. Mike
  15. Stuntflyer
    I started lining off the deck today. . . Using a tick strip, the deck beam reference line on the fore side of the main hatch was divided into equal segments. Mine needed eleven, each segment being slightly under 3/16". I divided the eleven spaces into two belts seven inner and four outer. To establish the two belts down the length of the hull I decided to get the initial curve from the plan and adjust it later if needed on the deck itself. I had already made a copy of the plan sheet showing the deck. I made a few changes to the plan to correspond to the actual build. I placed a thin sheet of glass over the plan and used a ships curve and a fine line marking pen to draw the curve. Once I was satisfied with the run of the curve I placed 1/8" tape along the line directly to the glass. A photo was taken and printed so the curve could be glued to card stock. Placing the curve on the deck showed that only a slight adjustment was needed at the location of the tick mark which divides the two belts. With the curve redrawn and a line transferred to both sides of the deck, I was ready to complete the remaining tick marks. Connecting the tick marks really helps to see what the run of planks will look like. In a few places I included the planks tab into the measurments and that was enough to throw off the even flow of planks down the hull. If I had not connected the tick marks it would have been very difficult to spot these errors. Mike
  16. Stuntflyer
    Looks really good! Mike
  17. Stuntflyer
    Thanks guys! Erik - Thanks for the feedback. I know that there are many different methods out there, some being better than mine, for sure. Still, I really enjoy sharing these things with other modelers. Bob - I plan on doing the curved planking. I hope you're right about it not being too difficult. Mike
  18. Stuntflyer
    Planking the deck is not exactly what I would call a milestone though it does feel like I'm moving along. . . Though not very scientific, I did come up with a way to get those center planks in a straight line. After setting the first plank at the stern I used a card template at each location along the deck to keep the planks straight. To confirm alignment, I marked the center of the plank at its forward edge as well as the aft edge of the deck structure. After pulling the plank to the card template I could see whether or not two marks matched closely The four remaining planks (two on each side of center plank) where then installed using PVA and clamps. I was careful not to glue anywhere close to the red deck structures. Scrap strips were used between the clamp and the deck planking to avoid any dents that might be caused from tightening of the clamps. I don't have any of those high-tech wooden clamps like those used by EdT though the ones from Dewalt (found at Home Depot) worked well enough. The clamp's protective covers were removed in order to get a better grip on the planks. The Irwin Quick-Grips have a more rounded shape underneath the covers and tend to slip off too easily. My deck planks are approximately 3/16" wide and in various locations will have a small tab. These have to be made using a wider strip. I tried making one that would have been 7/32" at its widest point using a 7/32" strip. Guess what, it didn't work. There wasn't enough room to allow for adjustments to the shape. I decided to go with a 1/4" strip, which worked quite well. Once the shape was completed it was only a matter of reducing the width to 3/16" outside of the tab location. This is an important step if you want to maintain consistency to the overall look of the planking. This is the plank which goes on either side of the "ventilation scuttle grating", just behind the skylight. Once the first five rows were completed, excess glue was removed and the planks were lightly sanded. I will hold off doing the final sanding until all of the remaining planks are in.
  19. Stuntflyer
    Hello Erik, Great start! I know that this is going to be a wonderful build for you as well as for all of us watching. Have fun, Mike
  20. Stuntflyer
    Hello Bob, I would be interested in knowing your method for making the eyebolts. Mike
  21. Stuntflyer
    Thanks guys, I truly appreciate your comments as well as all the "Likes". . I remember the first SMSNJ meeting I went to where Tom Ruggiero was talking about our tech sessions. He felt that no tech session was too simple to show as there would always be something to learn from it. I never thought that the steps in making the block were anything special and was probably done that way many times before. It's very gratifying to see that I was able to show something different and perhaps useful to other modelers. Mike
  22. Stuntflyer
    Here's wishing you all a very Happy New Year! While waiting for boxwood sheet needed for deck planking, I was able to complete a few small projects. Those being the shaping the channels, backstay plates (unpainted), jib outhaul block and scuppers. The channels and backstay plates were made as described in Chuck's log. This was my build sequence to complete the outhaul block. . Step 1. 1/16" strip was cut to the overall size of the block. Holes were measured and drilled for the treenails (#76) and center pin (.028"). Drilling incorrectly at this stage seemed far better than doing so after the whole thing was assembled and shaped. Step 2. Used as a guide a short length of 22 gauge wire was inserted through the center hole. A 5/32" dowel center drilled and sliced to 3/64" was placed over the wire. The dowel was then secured to the strip. Steps 3-4. 3/64" strip was glued to the 1/16" strip with a .024 pin used as a spacer. This allows the .018 rigging rope to pass through the block. Steps 5-8. The overhanging 3/64" strips are trimmed off and the block is shaped. Once completed the treenails are simulated and 22 gauge wire is inserted through the center hole, standing proud slightly. The back of the wire is filed flush.
  23. Stuntflyer
    Beautifully done Erik! Having seen some photos of your other projects it comes as no surprise that you would build a Longboat to be proud of. I'm really looking forward to following your next project, whatever that might be. Mike
  24. Stuntflyer
    Erik, druxey, thank you for the nice comments and for all the "Likes". With the waterway completed I was finally able to add a few of the deck structures. These were all done a while back as a diversion, that kept me from getting crazy, when I was re-doing the planking. The photo below shows how I was able to set the structures with the correct spacing and parallel. You can't see it here but there is a lower deck below the skylight. The skylight windows have been antiqued thus reducing reflections, though quite subtle when viewed in person.
  25. Stuntflyer
    I managed to complete the waterways today. . They are very small and fragile being only 1/32" x 1/32" before being rounded off. The shape was created by taping a 1/32" sheet at the edge of a table with a slight overhang. Another piece of tape was laid down about 1/8" back of the sheets edge, to prevent any sanding of the wood further back. A long, flat sanding block was used to shape the quarter round. A 1/32" strip was then ripped from the sheet with the flat side up on the table saw. Done the other way the round edge would have slid underneath the saws fence. The waterways were glued in with medium CA.

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