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Stuntflyer

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Everything posted by Stuntflyer

  1. Stuntflyer
    Looks very nice, Erik. A major hurdle cleared. Touching up never seems to end, so there is plenty of time for that. Mike
  2. Stuntflyer
    Thank you all, again! Mike
  3. Stuntflyer
    Today, I started the running rigging with the jib halliard and related components. The traveler ring, was made by Chuck and is available on his website. I decided that stabilizing the traveler ring was key to making it all go smoothly. The photos below show the steps taken to achieve this. Note that the jib halliard #2 is temporarily wrapped around one of the bowsprit bitts instead of being fully rigged through the block at the mast head. That will come later after the jib inhaul is completed. The jib outhaul #1 is routed correctly. With the traveler ring stabilized I made the jib inhaul. Lastly the inhaul was seized to the traveler ring and the jib halliard was routed correctly. Hope this all makes sense. . Mike
  4. Stuntflyer
    Dirk, Rusty, thank you for the kind words, and for all the "Likes" Mike
  5. Stuntflyer
    Well, I have finally made it past the standing rigging. I recently noticed that the cleats going around the lower mast are evenly spaced, just not in the right starting position. They all need to be shifted 5-10° in one direction to match the plans. I don't see this as anything to be concerned about, but I will leave the top mast stay tackle long, should I need to move it to another cleat later. It's impossible to take the photos the way I want to show them, that is the entire image, full size and high resolution. Can't have everything, but hopefully you will get the idea. Mike
  6. Stuntflyer
    Hi Rusty, I glad to see your making some nice progress again. You might find that the pin rail between the catheads will have to be raised, virtually level with the top of the caprail, in order to clear the bowsprit. Check out Chuck's third photo in post #910. I had to do the same on mine. Mike
  7. Stuntflyer
    Erik, The topsail yard was reduced approx 1 1/2" (actual) and the lower yard was reduced by approx 1 13/16" (actual) . As to why they where drawn longer on the plans, I really can't say. Mike
  8. Stuntflyer
    Hello everyone, I've completed a few projects ahead of finishing up the standing rigging. One being the repainting of the workroom and the other being the necessary shortening of the two yards, as per Chuck's instructions. No doubt he will have the drawings and related comments available when he has time. I could have made all new ones, however I wasn't really happy with the idea having to do that. Since the stock thickness remains the same for both. I just shortened them and re-tapered them to the proper spec with the use of a hand drill. The lower yard needed new sheaves and there was just enough length available to allow for this. I left them unpainted so you can see what they look like at this time. I was able to salvage those pesky to make stops as well. Mike
  9. Stuntflyer
    Ed, I might have missed it somewhere in your log, but I'm a bit curious as to why you're not to staying with foam core. Couldn't you make a slot to hold it in place for easy removal later? Mike
  10. Stuntflyer
    See, I told you not to worry. Looks fantastic! Mike
  11. Stuntflyer
    Well, I'm happy to say that the ratlines are done. The next step will be to complete the standing rigging and add some rope coils. Getting there! Mike
  12. Stuntflyer
    You won't, Erik. Just keep doing what you do best! Mike
  13. Stuntflyer
    Erik, I would not do it that way. Gaps will remain gaps no matter how much you try and force the wood into place. This is especially true since boxwood is not going to conform to variances in shape beyond a certain point. Take your time to get a press fit, though not too tight. The glue will swell the wood slightly and you definitely want the wood to go into the space as far as possible. I would only bevel the wood ever so slightly, Too much and there is a risk over thinning the edges during final sanding. You might end up test fitting numerous times in order to get it right. However, I think that the process will go quicker than you might expect. Mike
  14. Stuntflyer
    Hey Mike. I have no doubt that you will find this to be an interesting build. Can't say much for the poor Britannia castings, but those can be replaced with wood. Follow Chuck's instructions and it should go smoothly for you. Any questions, please don't hesitate to ask. Mike
  15. Stuntflyer
    Well, I don't know how long it would take a more experienced modeler to do this. However, waiting those three days to see the final result felt more like a week. Mike
  16. Stuntflyer
    Thank you, Erik! I'm embarrassed to say, but almost three days. The third day was spent getting the lines into some sort of uniformity. Some of the clove hitches needed tightening and some of the line lengths needed adjusting. Not a big deal, just time consuming. Mike
  17. Stuntflyer
    Thanks, druxey! It's doesn't hurt to have good material to work with. Using Chuck's rope certainly helped in making the work go a whole lot easier. Mike
  18. Stuntflyer
    Hey guys, I apologize for redoing doing the last post three times. Still learning the new format. Mike
  19. Stuntflyer
    I've been tidying up a bit lately. Managed to get some paint on the chainplates, which are now ready for weathering. I just need to decide what look to go for. Most of the rigging needed some tightening up as well. The two eyebolts that secure the bobstay to the hull where moved forward to prevent the bobstay from interfering with the anchor hoisting. The eyebolts are now 1 1/4" from the stem. The original holes where filled and re-painted. The two ladders that were apparently not glued down securely and knocked off during the rigging process are now on the deck. The thrill of the day, at least for me, was getting the starboard side ratlines completed. The shrouds where checked after every square knot and clove hitch was tightened to insure that there was no hourglass shape creeping in. I found this to be an very interesting process. I learned a lot and planning ahead definitely helps things go easier. Hopefully this is what ratlines are supposed to look like. . . Mike
  20. Stuntflyer
    Well done, Erik! If you want, as you do those final strakes on the upper belt, you can place a small block of wood on top of the bulkheads near the inside edge of the hull. This might help you get the clamp into a better angle. It also prevents any damage to the hull due to clamping directly onto it. Mike
  21. Stuntflyer
    Thank you, Dave!
  22. Stuntflyer
    Simply amazing, Bob! All this in only ten months. Can't wait to see what's next. Mike
  23. Stuntflyer
    I finished the Forestay today. The rope is .054 Brown served with 50wt thread. To thin out the splice as much as possible I decided to include only one served end into the splice. To make this work I had to measure exactly how much length of serving would be needed. That turned out to be 4". The serving adds quite a bit to the thickness of the splice, so doing it this way reduces the overall thickness of the splice considerably. Here you can see where the serving ends (as indicated by the green arrow) and where the beveled cut rope was glued to the served side. As you can see, I didn't tighten anything up yet. The gang of ropes turned out to be a bit too tight once the Forestay was added and it's crushing the ropes below it. I'm thinking that perhaps I should move it up as shown in "Rigging Fore-and-Aft Craft" Lennarth Peterson: The British Naval Cutter Mike
  24. Stuntflyer
    I had the same issue with those two gun ports and framing alignment. You are not going to notice it once the interior is painted and details are added to that area of the ship. Once the lids are in place everything will look great, just like the rest of the ship. Mike
  25. Stuntflyer
    The sling is now completed. It is made from Chuck's .035 Dark Brown rope and served its entire length with 50wt thread. Adding the thimble and seizing it was straight forward. The rope length was measured so the bottom of the hook falls about 3/16" below the gaff. A small eye was seized to one end of the rope, while being careful to maintain the proper rope length. This was all done off the ship. After feeding the sling around the mast, the remaining end was inserted through the eye and the last intertwined eye was made when the sling was in position. Seizing the last eye proved to be quite tricky. The sling is short, so holding onto it while seizing the eye proved to be awkward. It took several tries before I managed to do it. Mike

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