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Stuntflyer

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Everything posted by Stuntflyer

  1. Stuntflyer
    Coming together nicely, Maury! Mike
  2. Stuntflyer
    Way to go, Erik! Looking really nice. Mike
  3. Stuntflyer
    Greg, Actually, I think it was designed as a first time scratch build with some laser cut parts available for those that want them. The plan is highly detailed and as long as you follow the monograph or Chuck's build, then things can come together amazing well. So I would say that it is a very well designed ship. Mike
  4. Stuntflyer
    Dharma66, Steve, Chuck's build is definitely a hard act to follow. I'm amazed at just how much there is to know to even approach what he does so well. He is definitely a good man to have around. Mike
  5. Stuntflyer
    Thank you all for the kind words, comments and "Likes". After a week off vacationing, I'm finally getting around to building again. I finished the lower backstay and tackle today. Next up is the sling and then the mainstay. After that I'm going to clean up some of the scratched paint work. At least that's the plan. Mike
  6. Stuntflyer
    Russ: I tend to agree with you. Things are moving around a bit, as you say. I'm going to wait until after the lower backstays and mainstay are completed before I start to tighten things up. Druxey: Chuck's method does seem to work nicely once one gets the hang of it. Like everything here there is some learning to do. Next time I would like to try your method as I'm sure you have worked out all of the kinks. Mike
  7. Stuntflyer
    Hello! I managed to complete the shrouds today. "Turning in" the deadeyes required a few do overs and a test of my patience. The lanyards are not secured. I like to go back and look at things when my mind is fresh before committing. Next, I want to clean up the chainplates which is something I try not to look at since right now they look like c***. Mike
  8. Stuntflyer
    I used a lot of clear dope when I was building airplanes and still have a few gallons on the shelf. Aero Gloss Clear "Nitrate" Dope was known to yellow over time. On the other hand, Sig Mfg had a product called "Butyrate" Clear Dope which won't yellow over time or shrink like some "Super Coat " clear dopes. It's still available over the internet. Mike
  9. Stuntflyer
    Thanks, Chuck! I'm hoping to have all of the deadeyes replaced sometime tomorrow. Will send you a PM. Mike
  10. Stuntflyer
    No problem, Chuck. Hopefully sometime this coming week if you have the time. Mike
  11. Stuntflyer
    Chuck, If by Corel Photo, you mean Corel Photo Paint, this plugin might fix the lens issues that you are having. I believe it works as a stand alone program or as a plugin. Of course, there is always Photoshop where its "Camera Raw" plugin can be set up to do it automatically. http://epaperpress.com/ptlens/ Mike
  12. Stuntflyer
    Best wishes to everyone for a Healthy and Happy New Year! The Cheerful plans show 5.5mm deadeyes for the chainplates and shrouds. My eyes must have been playing tricks on me when I first measured them at 5mm. Now that I am trying to install the shrouds, I can see that they are too small and somewhat hard to work with. Chuck has suggested that I could replace them with 6mm ones that would be easier to rig. That's what I'm in the process of doing now. Hey! It doesn't get more exciting than this. A while back when I was finishing up the paint work on the wales, I had decided not to paint and weather the chainplates. Something told me to hold off a bit or maybe I was just being lazy. Now that I'm scratching them up, I'm glad I waited. With the first 6mm deadeye installed you can easily see the size difference. Mike
  13. Stuntflyer
    I have seen the way Chuck did it, as described in his monograph, and it looks very nice. Mike
  14. Stuntflyer
    Aha! Thanks, druxey. Mike
  15. Stuntflyer
    Thank you all for the comments and "Likes". . . It certainly has been an interesting journey so far. Shrouds are coming soon. Speaking of which, I'm not clear on what "turning in" means exactly. I searched and found only limited information. Does anyone have something more descriptive? It would be greatly appreciated and hopefully helpful to others as well. Mike
  16. Stuntflyer
    When I first started rigging Cheerful It all seemed a bit overwhelming and I wasn't having all that much fun, honestly. I had no real plan for completing the Peak Halliard so I decided to concentrate on one task at a time and try not to think about all that had to be done. Making a decent looking hook, for example, required a lot more effort than I originally thought. I spent the whole day trying different methods and threw out a lot of wire. Making more wouldn't hurt, but the process did get easier and I'm happy with the results overall. Taking things really slow has made the rigging process a whole lot more enjoyable.
  17. Stuntflyer
    There is a lot to be said for "peace of mind". Well done, Thomas. Mike
  18. Stuntflyer
    While looking at some photos today, I realized that I forgot to mention a technique that I used for seizing the served rope shown in my post #279. The idea was passed onto me during a Saturday get together at Chuck's. With the heavier served rope a typical seizing might look too heavy. Here is how I did it while maintaining a thinner profile. Before gluing, the end of the rope is cut to an angle similar to what is shown here. I like using the G-S Hypo Cement because it grabs and sets quickly. A single overhand knot starts things off The thread is wrapped to the end of the glue joint and finished off. Mike
  19. Stuntflyer
    Hello everyone! I just wanted to post this small update as I prepare to complete the gaff and its halliard work. The strops on the gaff are done using thimbles and .018 Brown rope. The flag halliard tackle uses a 1/8" single block. Mike
  20. Stuntflyer
    druxey: Thanks for pointing that out. I couldn't adjust the lift without redoing the main sheet. I'm surprised just how much rope is needed for this, almost 18", to play it safe. Afterwards I had to shorten the lift where it meets the tackle. While I was at it, I corrected the tackle by crossing the rope as shown in Chuck's post. A small but noticeable change. Mike
  21. Stuntflyer
    My girlfriend Ofelia and I had a chance to visit the model ship exhibit at the Morris County Library today. http://mclib.info/Lots of interesting models to see and admire. The exhibit extends sometime into January for those that might be interested. The rigging work continues after fitting the boom, with the topping lift and its tackle. The topping lift is .025 Light Brown and the tackle is .018 Light brown. All of the blocks are 1/4" As you can see from the photo, the main sheet needs some tightening up. Mike
  22. Stuntflyer
    Yes indeed, Thomas. Its looking wonderful. Mike
  23. Stuntflyer
    If not Michaels then there is a Joann store, I think, at 2440 Arapahoe Ave, Boulder, CO 80302-6709. They should have a complete selection. Mike
  24. Stuntflyer
    Erik: I'm using Chuck's Light Brown instead of Tan. I'm seizing with Gutermann #3880 100% cotton thread. It's about 50wt as well. If you decide to go with Tan you can use their #3756. I got mine from a Michaels store near by. I'm waiting for Superior threads to re-stock 60wt and 80wt Dark Brown. I would like to try these for seizing or serving thinner rope. Mike
  25. Stuntflyer
    Thank you all for the comments and "Likes" Erik: That's interesting. I hadn't thought about comparing the Longboat rigging to Cheerful. What I do know is how bad the MS rope was to work with compared to using Chuck's rope now. I'm sometimes tempted to shoot farther away though these hi-res photos do allow you to see mistakes that otherwise might be missed. Here is the thread link. https://www.superiorthreads.com/shop/product/so-fine-50-467-buffalo-550-yds-polyester-thread/ Mike

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