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Stuntflyer
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Stuntflyer got a reaction from Captain Poison in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by Stuntflyer (Mike) - FINISHED - 1:48 scale
Over the past few days I managed to get the seats shaped and the channels installed.
The holes for the seats were drilled using 5/32" O.D brass tubing. After placing the tubing in a hand drill, a #11 blade was used to taper and sharpen the inside of the tubing to a sharp edge. The tubing was placed in a drill press for drilling. Both sides of the seats were drilled at the same time for uniformity. Making them and fitting them was time consuming and a bit fiddly, but worth the effort. The seats will be spray painted off the ship along with the other inboard stern details.
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I'm going to notch the channels after double checking the angle of the chain plates in relationship to the hole markings in the wales. The eyebolts were formed from black 22ga. wire. To avoid having to use oversize holes in the channels the eyebolts were made by a simple shaping of the wire. A tiny notch was filed into the channel to allow the eyebolt to sink in a bit. Since the wire was not twisted, I used 3 hour Epoxy to glue them in.
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Stuntflyer got a reaction from Canute in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by Erik W - 1:48 scale
Looking very good! Had the same problem only I'm glad you were able to catch and fix the over faired area early on. Those pesky stern gun ports tested my patience as well.
Mike
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Stuntflyer got a reaction from PeteB in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by Stuntflyer (Mike) - FINISHED - 1:48 scale
Over the past few days I managed to get the seats shaped and the channels installed.
The holes for the seats were drilled using 5/32" O.D brass tubing. After placing the tubing in a hand drill, a #11 blade was used to taper and sharpen the inside of the tubing to a sharp edge. The tubing was placed in a drill press for drilling. Both sides of the seats were drilled at the same time for uniformity. Making them and fitting them was time consuming and a bit fiddly, but worth the effort. The seats will be spray painted off the ship along with the other inboard stern details.
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I'm going to notch the channels after double checking the angle of the chain plates in relationship to the hole markings in the wales. The eyebolts were formed from black 22ga. wire. To avoid having to use oversize holes in the channels the eyebolts were made by a simple shaping of the wire. A tiny notch was filed into the channel to allow the eyebolt to sink in a bit. Since the wire was not twisted, I used 3 hour Epoxy to glue them in.
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Stuntflyer got a reaction from GuntherMT in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by Stuntflyer (Mike) - FINISHED - 1:48 scale
Over the past few days I managed to get the seats shaped and the channels installed.
The holes for the seats were drilled using 5/32" O.D brass tubing. After placing the tubing in a hand drill, a #11 blade was used to taper and sharpen the inside of the tubing to a sharp edge. The tubing was placed in a drill press for drilling. Both sides of the seats were drilled at the same time for uniformity. Making them and fitting them was time consuming and a bit fiddly, but worth the effort. The seats will be spray painted off the ship along with the other inboard stern details.
.
I'm going to notch the channels after double checking the angle of the chain plates in relationship to the hole markings in the wales. The eyebolts were formed from black 22ga. wire. To avoid having to use oversize holes in the channels the eyebolts were made by a simple shaping of the wire. A tiny notch was filed into the channel to allow the eyebolt to sink in a bit. Since the wire was not twisted, I used 3 hour Epoxy to glue them in.
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Stuntflyer got a reaction from Ryland Craze in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by Stuntflyer (Mike) - FINISHED - 1:48 scale
Over the past few days I managed to get the seats shaped and the channels installed.
The holes for the seats were drilled using 5/32" O.D brass tubing. After placing the tubing in a hand drill, a #11 blade was used to taper and sharpen the inside of the tubing to a sharp edge. The tubing was placed in a drill press for drilling. Both sides of the seats were drilled at the same time for uniformity. Making them and fitting them was time consuming and a bit fiddly, but worth the effort. The seats will be spray painted off the ship along with the other inboard stern details.
.
I'm going to notch the channels after double checking the angle of the chain plates in relationship to the hole markings in the wales. The eyebolts were formed from black 22ga. wire. To avoid having to use oversize holes in the channels the eyebolts were made by a simple shaping of the wire. A tiny notch was filed into the channel to allow the eyebolt to sink in a bit. Since the wire was not twisted, I used 3 hour Epoxy to glue them in.
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Stuntflyer got a reaction from druxey in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by Stuntflyer (Mike) - FINISHED - 1:48 scale
Over the past few days I managed to get the seats shaped and the channels installed.
The holes for the seats were drilled using 5/32" O.D brass tubing. After placing the tubing in a hand drill, a #11 blade was used to taper and sharpen the inside of the tubing to a sharp edge. The tubing was placed in a drill press for drilling. Both sides of the seats were drilled at the same time for uniformity. Making them and fitting them was time consuming and a bit fiddly, but worth the effort. The seats will be spray painted off the ship along with the other inboard stern details.
.
I'm going to notch the channels after double checking the angle of the chain plates in relationship to the hole markings in the wales. The eyebolts were formed from black 22ga. wire. To avoid having to use oversize holes in the channels the eyebolts were made by a simple shaping of the wire. A tiny notch was filed into the channel to allow the eyebolt to sink in a bit. Since the wire was not twisted, I used 3 hour Epoxy to glue them in.
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Stuntflyer got a reaction from tadheus in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by Stuntflyer (Mike) - FINISHED - 1:48 scale
Over the past few days I managed to get the seats shaped and the channels installed.
The holes for the seats were drilled using 5/32" O.D brass tubing. After placing the tubing in a hand drill, a #11 blade was used to taper and sharpen the inside of the tubing to a sharp edge. The tubing was placed in a drill press for drilling. Both sides of the seats were drilled at the same time for uniformity. Making them and fitting them was time consuming and a bit fiddly, but worth the effort. The seats will be spray painted off the ship along with the other inboard stern details.
.
I'm going to notch the channels after double checking the angle of the chain plates in relationship to the hole markings in the wales. The eyebolts were formed from black 22ga. wire. To avoid having to use oversize holes in the channels the eyebolts were made by a simple shaping of the wire. A tiny notch was filed into the channel to allow the eyebolt to sink in a bit. Since the wire was not twisted, I used 3 hour Epoxy to glue them in.
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Stuntflyer got a reaction from wyz in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by Stuntflyer (Mike) - FINISHED - 1:48 scale
Over the past few days I managed to get the seats shaped and the channels installed.
The holes for the seats were drilled using 5/32" O.D brass tubing. After placing the tubing in a hand drill, a #11 blade was used to taper and sharpen the inside of the tubing to a sharp edge. The tubing was placed in a drill press for drilling. Both sides of the seats were drilled at the same time for uniformity. Making them and fitting them was time consuming and a bit fiddly, but worth the effort. The seats will be spray painted off the ship along with the other inboard stern details.
.
I'm going to notch the channels after double checking the angle of the chain plates in relationship to the hole markings in the wales. The eyebolts were formed from black 22ga. wire. To avoid having to use oversize holes in the channels the eyebolts were made by a simple shaping of the wire. A tiny notch was filed into the channel to allow the eyebolt to sink in a bit. Since the wire was not twisted, I used 3 hour Epoxy to glue them in.
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Stuntflyer got a reaction from Rustyj in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by Stuntflyer (Mike) - FINISHED - 1:48 scale
Over the past few days I managed to get the seats shaped and the channels installed.
The holes for the seats were drilled using 5/32" O.D brass tubing. After placing the tubing in a hand drill, a #11 blade was used to taper and sharpen the inside of the tubing to a sharp edge. The tubing was placed in a drill press for drilling. Both sides of the seats were drilled at the same time for uniformity. Making them and fitting them was time consuming and a bit fiddly, but worth the effort. The seats will be spray painted off the ship along with the other inboard stern details.
.
I'm going to notch the channels after double checking the angle of the chain plates in relationship to the hole markings in the wales. The eyebolts were formed from black 22ga. wire. To avoid having to use oversize holes in the channels the eyebolts were made by a simple shaping of the wire. A tiny notch was filed into the channel to allow the eyebolt to sink in a bit. Since the wire was not twisted, I used 3 hour Epoxy to glue them in.
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Stuntflyer got a reaction from Knocklouder in Mayflower by Stuntflyer (Mike) - Model Shipways - 5/32" Scale
Hello everyone! It has been a while since my last update so hopefully others will come more frequently in the future. Below is a photo showing all the planking completed on one side. Unfortunately I'm having to cope with wood strips that don't have square edges as delivered from the source. This makes things very tedious and slows down the process tremendously. The gun ports were originally done with no pencil edge and were very hard to see. After carefully removing them I made new ones using pencil edging. The last strake has been gradually tapered down to 1/64" and the wale will sit directly below it. The lighter planks at the top will eventually be painted and should give some uniformity to the hull overall.
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Stuntflyer reacted to dvm27 in Greenwich Hospital barge of 1832 by druxey - FINISHED - 1:48 scale
I have had the pleasure of holding and examining this little jewel of a model today and it is even more impressive in person. It is surprisingly small, light and translucent. It's quite perfect! I believe Druxey is building it on spec so perhaps some lucky MSW member will end up with it.
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Stuntflyer reacted to mtaylor in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by Chuck - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - kit prototype
I think that's a very astute observation, Greg.
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Stuntflyer reacted to dvm27 in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by Chuck - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - kit prototype
This is precisely the reason that young people are not attracted to ship model making, Chuck. Instant gratification is the mantra for most people under 40 as well as the "good enough" philosophy.
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Stuntflyer got a reaction from PeteB in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by Stuntflyer (Mike) - FINISHED - 1:48 scale
Just a small update. .
After applying a coat of W-O-P to the deck I decided that it was a good time to attach the windlass. The most important thing was to get the windlass centered and parallel to the other deck structures like the coaming directly behind it. Varying plank widths at the bow meant that I couldn't use those joints as an additional guide for alignment. With this in mind and not trusting my eye, I decided to make a jig. The jig was made from a stick ripped to the width of the distance from the coaming to the back of the windlass. Vertical pieces were then glued to the stick for the windlass to back up to. After heat bending the jig was I taped it down to the deck against the forward edge of the coaming. Aligning the windlass was a simple matter of centering it and backing it up to the jig while holding it down for a few minutes until the glue set.
Still need to clean up some of the dust remaining inside th ports.
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Stuntflyer reacted to Chuck in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by Chuck - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - kit prototype
Thank You....
Its just a matter of slowing down and taking your time. Not rushing is a huge part of it. I think everyone can do the same but I see so many folks running through their projects like they are in a race. Should parts not fit correctly...throw them away and do it again. It took me about 2 hours to paint the stern after making the seats and adding the cleats. It took me about 1 hour to just paint one ladder after making it. Many thin coats being careful not to get any dust on it. Sanding carefully when imperfections and brush strokes take place. The key in my mind is to just slow down....my best advice for any model builder.
Chuck
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Stuntflyer got a reaction from Canute in Cutter Cheerful 1806 by Rustyj - FINISHED - 1:48 Scale
I wish I had thought of this when I was at this stage, Rusty.
Mike
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Stuntflyer got a reaction from mtaylor in Cutter Cheerful 1806 by Rustyj - FINISHED - 1:48 Scale
I wish I had thought of this when I was at this stage, Rusty.
Mike
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Stuntflyer reacted to Rustyj in Cutter Cheerful 1806 by Rustyj - FINISHED - 1:48 Scale
Thank you Ben and also the "likes".
I've made the fashion pieces and placed them. At this point I'm supposed
to add the second layer of the wales. I decided to delay putting them on until
I run the first couple of rows of hull planking.
The plans shows a drop plank near the bow. So I'm running the first two strakes
with the drop plank before lining off the rest of the hull. A card template was used
to find its shape and then cut from a boxwood sheet.
Next up will be a lot of planking.
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Stuntflyer reacted to Chuck in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by Chuck - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - kit prototype
At some point it does get ridiculous. Again I reiterate how I wanted this to be a scratch/semi-scratch project. But it all depends on how much demand there is for the pesky parts nobody likes to build from scratch. I have basically kept all of the laser cutting files for each element of the project just in case. If a lot of folks want these to be available I will certainly add them to the list of parts available. I use the laser cutter like anyone else would use any other tool. So its easy enough to do.
Mike is in my local club for example...so I usually cut double the amount and I will give him some ladder kits tonight when I see him.
Chuck
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Stuntflyer reacted to Chuck in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by Chuck - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - kit prototype
Making ladders now. They are usually very annoying to make in any scale. I quickly drafted some laser cut plans. Makes it much easier. I laser etched slots to take each step. Note the angle to the completed ladder. It follows the sheer of the deck fore and aft and therefore is askew. Otherwise it would look funny. These will be painted red.
Chuck
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Stuntflyer got a reaction from tasmanian in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by Stuntflyer (Mike) - FINISHED - 1:48 scale
Just a small update. .
After applying a coat of W-O-P to the deck I decided that it was a good time to attach the windlass. The most important thing was to get the windlass centered and parallel to the other deck structures like the coaming directly behind it. Varying plank widths at the bow meant that I couldn't use those joints as an additional guide for alignment. With this in mind and not trusting my eye, I decided to make a jig. The jig was made from a stick ripped to the width of the distance from the coaming to the back of the windlass. Vertical pieces were then glued to the stick for the windlass to back up to. After heat bending the jig was I taped it down to the deck against the forward edge of the coaming. Aligning the windlass was a simple matter of centering it and backing it up to the jig while holding it down for a few minutes until the glue set.
Still need to clean up some of the dust remaining inside th ports.
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Stuntflyer got a reaction from GuntherMT in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by Stuntflyer (Mike) - FINISHED - 1:48 scale
Just a small update. .
After applying a coat of W-O-P to the deck I decided that it was a good time to attach the windlass. The most important thing was to get the windlass centered and parallel to the other deck structures like the coaming directly behind it. Varying plank widths at the bow meant that I couldn't use those joints as an additional guide for alignment. With this in mind and not trusting my eye, I decided to make a jig. The jig was made from a stick ripped to the width of the distance from the coaming to the back of the windlass. Vertical pieces were then glued to the stick for the windlass to back up to. After heat bending the jig was I taped it down to the deck against the forward edge of the coaming. Aligning the windlass was a simple matter of centering it and backing it up to the jig while holding it down for a few minutes until the glue set.
Still need to clean up some of the dust remaining inside th ports.
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Stuntflyer got a reaction from tadheus in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by Stuntflyer (Mike) - FINISHED - 1:48 scale
Just a small update. .
After applying a coat of W-O-P to the deck I decided that it was a good time to attach the windlass. The most important thing was to get the windlass centered and parallel to the other deck structures like the coaming directly behind it. Varying plank widths at the bow meant that I couldn't use those joints as an additional guide for alignment. With this in mind and not trusting my eye, I decided to make a jig. The jig was made from a stick ripped to the width of the distance from the coaming to the back of the windlass. Vertical pieces were then glued to the stick for the windlass to back up to. After heat bending the jig was I taped it down to the deck against the forward edge of the coaming. Aligning the windlass was a simple matter of centering it and backing it up to the jig while holding it down for a few minutes until the glue set.
Still need to clean up some of the dust remaining inside th ports.
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Stuntflyer got a reaction from tlevine in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by Stuntflyer (Mike) - FINISHED - 1:48 scale
Just a small update. .
After applying a coat of W-O-P to the deck I decided that it was a good time to attach the windlass. The most important thing was to get the windlass centered and parallel to the other deck structures like the coaming directly behind it. Varying plank widths at the bow meant that I couldn't use those joints as an additional guide for alignment. With this in mind and not trusting my eye, I decided to make a jig. The jig was made from a stick ripped to the width of the distance from the coaming to the back of the windlass. Vertical pieces were then glued to the stick for the windlass to back up to. After heat bending the jig was I taped it down to the deck against the forward edge of the coaming. Aligning the windlass was a simple matter of centering it and backing it up to the jig while holding it down for a few minutes until the glue set.
Still need to clean up some of the dust remaining inside th ports.
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Stuntflyer got a reaction from Canute in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by Stuntflyer (Mike) - FINISHED - 1:48 scale
Thanks guys! It feels good to be able to work on the ship without all the saw dust.
druxey, I don't think that pinning the windlass is needed here.
Mike
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