BareHook

I have been mixing black ink into the Lepages Carpenters glue with no problems noted over a couple of years so far.
 

 

 

 
Michael

lambsbk! I used taps and chaser ... less than 1 мм  I have unfortunately

My 1:50 scale allowed me to do so blocks

Hi Rob
The whole stern area is perhaps the most tricky part of the AVS in my experience. The windows are tiny and very fragile but you need to use them as a template for the framing pieces. One small tip - after removing them from the billet, I separately labelled them in in small containers as it quickly becomes very difficult to tell the inboard windows from the outboard ones!
 
As all AVS builders will all so tell you, you really need to fair the frames up to the stern counter. If it not faired enough the planks will tend to snap as they bend up. I'm looking at your last photo with the filler - the frame forward of that needs to be heavily faired, much more so than you'd expect.
 
Look forward to more - a trip down memory lane.
 
Cheers
Alistair

The Thanksgiving holiday has given me a four day weekend and a great opportunity to spend some time in the shipyard. 
I completed attaching the bulkheads and the bracing in between. The braces really do stiffen it up which will help during the fairing process. Many of the bulkheads fell short of the rabbet. I cut some strips 1/32" thick and glued them on the offenders. Much of the strip will be sanded away but it will pay big dividends when I get to the planking stage.

 
I also began taking a look at the stern. There are four lights (windows) across the stern. They are not perpendicular to the keel for some reason (that would be too easy ) The vertical strips of the window frames are angled. To ensure the rough opening is correct, I sanded an angle on the innermost frame. I don't need to sand the angle on the other 2, I'll just glue them on parallel to the inner frame. In an attempt  to avoid screwing this up I'm taking the time to lay this out on the bulkhead. I still need to mark the outermost frame. Once I get the starboard side done, I'll repeat it on the port side. That's my plan anyway. We'll see how it goes.

I've been making a little progress. Bulkheads are going on and bracing added between them. I am trying hard to get them square. Once they are on I can already see that I will need to add some shims and do a lot of sanding. From looking at other build logs I will be spending quite some time getting the hull faired. Thanksgiving is coming with a 4 day weekend and I aim to spent a good portion of it in the shipyard

 

I use this one available from harborfreight.com, currently on sale for $79.99, but not sure what shipping would be to various locations.
 

Here are a couple tutorials online:
 
http://www.modelboatyard.com/hooks.html\
 
http://www.modelboatyard.com/stropping.html
 
Ken

I use this one available from harborfreight.com, currently on sale for $79.99, but not sure what shipping would be to various locations.
 

I use this one available from harborfreight.com, currently on sale for $79.99, but not sure what shipping would be to various locations.
 

Here are a couple tutorials online:
 
http://www.modelboatyard.com/hooks.html\
 
http://www.modelboatyard.com/stropping.html
 
Ken

Thanks!
 
By the way Ken, your AVS is incredible.  Very nice crisp work!

It's nice to see another AVS getting started. Feel free to ask for input, there is a lot of experience on this site with this kit, I'm nearing completion with mine.
 
Are you planning to work with any of the practicums available? I used this one, the cost was right for me.
 
http://www.modelboatyard.com/avs_articles.html
 
Ken

The links below the deadeyes are made of metal rod and straps. It appears the deadeyes are stroped with metal rods that then attach to the metal straps which are bolted or nailed to the hull though the bottom holes.  I agree the upper supports or gussets are additional wood supports. Note, the drawing shows the channel angled down toward the water to show depth and width of the plank, but in actual installation, it should be horizontal or only seen on edge in that side view. You could probably estimate the width of the channel, or it may appear in another view where you can measure it.
 
Ken
 
P.S. The 2 links between the deadeye and the 2-hole strap are the same, the one above is just rotated like a chain link, so is seen on edge.
 
Check out the link below, very similar chainplates to yours.
 
http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/487-chain-plates/

Hello,
This is the initial entry in my build log of the Armed Virginia Sloop. My #1 goal is to complete the ship. I've got a few secondary ideas floating around in my head such as quality, craftsmanship, scratchbuilding and upgrading materials but I really want to finish this thing. For those not familiar with the kit, It is a 1:48 scale model sloop of the type built in and around the Chesapeake bay around 1800. As such I don't believe it represents a specific ship.
 
I began by reading the instructions, going over the plans and perusing various build logs here at MSW. I took the plans to a local office supply store and had them make copies that I could cut up and use as patterns etc. keeping the original set intact.
 
First step was to transfer the bearding line from the plans to the false keel. I then cut, carved and sanded the rabbet. I have begun to attach the keel.
 
While waiting for the keel to dry, I removed all the bulkheads from their sheet and cleaned up the edges. 
 
Next I used my extra plan sheet to cut out each bulkhead and transfer the bevel line onto the front side. I'm going to leave myself some wiggle room to adjust the angle once the bulkheads are glued to the false keel. 
 
I welcome any and all comments even if they seem critical (I spent several decades on submarines - those guys have no problem telling you what they think  ) I won't be offended at all. 
 

 

 

Along the years I built some tool boxes. Recently a major reorganisation to regroup  the small tools in only 1 chest all at hand. I came close to buy Bisley cabinet (up to 15 drawers). Finally I opted to build one. Most of the drawers are only one inch high and most of the tools fit in and some drwaers could even be less high.

I use this one available from harborfreight.com, currently on sale for $79.99, but not sure what shipping would be to various locations.
 

The links below the deadeyes are made of metal rod and straps. It appears the deadeyes are stroped with metal rods that then attach to the metal straps which are bolted or nailed to the hull though the bottom holes.  I agree the upper supports or gussets are additional wood supports. Note, the drawing shows the channel angled down toward the water to show depth and width of the plank, but in actual installation, it should be horizontal or only seen on edge in that side view. You could probably estimate the width of the channel, or it may appear in another view where you can measure it.
 
Ken
 
P.S. The 2 links between the deadeye and the 2-hole strap are the same, the one above is just rotated like a chain link, so is seen on edge.
 
Check out the link below, very similar chainplates to yours.
 
http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/487-chain-plates/

The links below the deadeyes are made of metal rod and straps. It appears the deadeyes are stroped with metal rods that then attach to the metal straps which are bolted or nailed to the hull though the bottom holes.  I agree the upper supports or gussets are additional wood supports. Note, the drawing shows the channel angled down toward the water to show depth and width of the plank, but in actual installation, it should be horizontal or only seen on edge in that side view. You could probably estimate the width of the channel, or it may appear in another view where you can measure it.
 
Ken
 
P.S. The 2 links between the deadeye and the 2-hole strap are the same, the one above is just rotated like a chain link, so is seen on edge.
 
Check out the link below, very similar chainplates to yours.
 
http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/487-chain-plates/

Hej Richard,
 
I’m  a lucky man and own both setups (the MF70  & the BFW 40/E and the table setup as shown by MIJ) 
So hereby my findings for both setups.. 
 
I started off with the MF70 and I’m very, very satisfied  with this product
 
Pro.

-It comes with an compound table and the “head” also moves down & up  via an spindle and it is good for accurate router tasks.
-It is also very good for small router bits and harder materials as the speed can varied between 5.000 - 20.000 rpm
-Collets and a three-jaw drill chuck can be used
-Is a small machine
 

Con.
-The “spindles” on the compound table (200x70mm) are small and therefore I use the spindle itself for accurate movements and not the handles
-It is a time consuming machine for drill tasks as the vertical movement only can be operated by an (small) spindle
-It can’t be used for “tilted” drill/router tasks 
 
 


 
As for the other setup..
I was actually looking for an drill-press but instead my attention focused on this BFW 40/E setup (contains BFB 2000, KT 150 and BFW 40/E) ..  
 
Con.
-The total setup is more expensive (but I must admit it is worth the extra money)
-Needs a separate power supply
-Less rpm’s than the MF70 (900-6.000 rpm)
-Only collets can be used
 
Pro.
-The compound table (200x200mm) can be bought separately/later, the spindles are more accurate, can move very fast and the handles are usable  
-The head can be tilted, so angled tasks are no problem
-The setup is Multi-functional (via an lever the head can be switched into a “router/static” or “drill-press/lever” mode)
-The motor-unit (BFW 40/E) is very, very, very quiet…   
-It can also handle “big” work pieces 
 
 

Esion, As ken has mentioned Brass is fairly soft and can easily be shaped with small files. this brass was shaped with small files.
 

 

 

 
then using the 220 that you mentioned it was polished up and steel wool for a final finish.
The most difficult part of working with small pieces of brass is holding them while you reshape or polish them, if you have a small hand vice it can be really helpful along with some needle files.
 
The needle files can usually be purchased at craft or hobby shops, the best quality ones can be purchased at a jewlery supply house.
 
Michael

Hi Daniel -
 
It really is just as simple as it sounds.  If you look at the plan for the bolster there is a zig-zag line dividing the forward and aft pieces that fit together.  Once I had the shape of the bolster cut and tapered, I drew on the line with a straightedge and a sharp pencil.  Then I went over the lines with the straightedge guiding the back (dull) side of a #10 blade, the curved one, not the pointed #11 blade.  I pushed down fairly hard to make a groove in the wood.  This would have made a visible line all by itself, but I find that doing this pushes the graphite from the pencil down into the groove, darkening it and making it stand out.
 
I used this same technique on the teak bench seats for the Swan 42 model.  In the computer I drew the multiple wood pieces for the seats, the side-by-side planks and the perimeter framing.  Once it was done to my liking and sized to the model, I printed it out onto thin veneer.  It looked good, but when I scribed the lines the printer ink was driven into the grooves, making seams that in some indescribable way look much more realistic than the simple printed version.
 


 
Anyway, it seems to work for me.  That's my story and I'm sticking to it.
 
Dan
 
 

Hi all - thanks for looking in.
 
Another week, another report.  The hulls are not going as well as could be hoped, so here is another deour.
 
To go with the tops that were built last time, I am now making the masts.  I took a plank of rock maple and cut it down to the dimensions of the masts and spars that I measured from the Budriot plans.  They are cut as square sticks sized to the largest width of the ultimate mast or spar, then cut to length.  As long as I was cutting, I cut duplicates for the two models.  Here are most of them, from the 5/8” x 19” of the main mast, down to the 3/16” x  6” of the main stunsail boom.
 

 
These were all cut on a Hegner Mk 4 multi-tool.   It is a mid-sized tool that fits between the Preac and a full sized table saw, and is perfect for the size of the QAR models.  It has a table saw, router, disc sander, and a Jacobs chuck that can power a flexible shaft grinding tool or an add-on lathe unit.  I picked it up used and it came without an instruction manual, but I am figuring it out as I go.
 

 
After all of the pieces were cut, I turned first to the main mast.  It is a fairly simple tapered cylinder.  I planned to use the lathe on the Hegner, but it will only take 12” work pieces, not the 19” of the mast.  Without access to a larger one I went back to basics to carve the mast.
 
The first step was to cut the tenon for the mast cap while the blank was still square.  The blade height and rip fence were adjusted on the table saw and the tenon was quickly cut out on all four faces.  Then the blank was made octagonal.  This was done in the usual way by marking out the 2-3-2 divisions down the length of the blank with a dividers.  With a sharp block plane the corners were taken down to the lines, resulting in the eight sided stick on the right.
 

 
After the corners were marked up as sight guides, they were taken down and rounded with a coarse disc in a hand-held random orbit sander.  I didn't find it difficult to do this, since it only had to be accurate enough for a first approximation.  I paused frequently to mark up any high spots that I felt when I spun the blank between my fingers.  Then they were sanded down and the process was repeated till it felt round.
 

 
Once the round blank was achieved I went to the plans and determined that the diameter just under the cap was 7/16”.  This was marked onto the top of the mast using a circle guide.  Using a coarse sanding drum in the Dremel I took the mast down to that size in a sharp taper right at the top.  I would pull the drum towards me, grinding off a thin slice from the mast, then rotate the blank a little and repeat.  One corner of the top tenon was marked so I would not forget to make a complete circle before checking my progress.
 

 
From there I moved down the length of the blank: grinding a strip with the dremel and turning the blank a little bit, grinding and turning, grinding and turning.  In essence, I became a very slow lathe.  After doing this for a while I would smooth out any humps and hollows that developed by sanding the blank on a sheet of sandpaper which has been glued to a piece of plexiglass laid flat of the workbench. 
 

 
This process would have taken much longer if the mast had a straight taper from base to cap.  However, the plans had these two little beehive drawings which had to be the tapering diagrams.  They were only designated ‘a’ and ‘b’, but after comparing them to the plans I determined that the one on the left fits the three lower masts, while the one on the right fits only the bowsprit.
 

 
This tapering process continued for what seemed like a very long time until I could slide the mast up through the top with the masthead extending above the top as indicated on the plans.
 

 
Now the pieces to support the crosstrees and top were made.  Unlike English practice, there are no hounds, cheeks or bibs.  Instead, the French at the time used only a front fish that fit to the mast and slid up between the crosstrees.  A two-part bolster was fitted to each side and treenailed to the mast and to the front fish.  Here are the plans.
 

 
The fish was made out of pear and treenailed to the mast with walnut dowels for contrast.  The fish is also held in place by a pair of wooldings that lie in broad grooves carved into the face of the piece.
 

 
The bolsters are also pear and treenailed with walnut.  The only technical point here is that it was made in one piece, not two.  The staggered separation line was drawn on in pencil, then the back of a #11 blade was used to scribe the lines, which tattoos the pencil marks into the wood.
 

 
The mast is reinforced by alternating iron mast bands and wooldings.  The bands are made from 1/16” wide brass strips which are wrapped around the mast and sized to fit, then chemically blackened.  They are attached temporarily with glue before holes are drilled for metal pins.  Each end of the strip where they meet gets one, and a third is placed on the opposite side of the mast.    The pins are annealed iron wire which is inserted, glued, and clipped short before being peened smooth.  You can see one on the band near the bottom end of the front fish and another just below the light reflection on the other band.
 
Working in a large scale like 1/36 will allow me to build some details much as they are made in full sized practice.  The wooldings are a case in point.  A cherry strip was cut, soaked and bent around the mast before being glued in place.  3” rope (1” diameter) is wrapped 13 turns around the mast, packed tightly against the wood strip, and cinched tight.  A second cherry strip is added to the other side of the wrapping.  A painting of dilute PVA glue secures everything.  Once the glue is dry, everything was given a coat of the finish and rubbed down.
 

 
The top was fit back on the masthead to see that everything fit properly.  The inset shows how the front fish comes up to the level of the top of the crosstrees and takes the place of the spacer that, in English practice, separates the masthead from the heel of the topmast.   There is a third mast band that should be around the masthead just above the top, but the platform would not fit around it so it was removed until the top is permanently attached to the mast. [sharp eyes will also notice that the crowsfoot holes are towards the back of the mast.  This will be turned around before the top is attached].
 

 
So here are two of the shipyard workers just skylarking on the main top.  One seems to see a friend on the ground.
 

 
It’s a good thing that Dread Pirate Peter hasn’t spotted them.  He has some pointed questions to ask about the location of crowsfoot holes.  And why the bands and wooldings stop halfway down the mast.
 

 
Auf wiedersehen . . .
 
Dan
    

This is a picture of my Proxxon mill
 

 
mij

Hello Kimberley,
 
If you are rigging a plastic ship, I highly recommend a product called EZ Line, made by a company called Berkshire Junction.  You can read about it here: http://www.berkshirejunction.com/ezline.html  It can stretch to several times it's static length, which is perfect for a plastic ship, since, plastic masts will deform over time when they are under tension.  I buy mine from freetimehobbies.com, but I am sure you could find other sources.
 
I am just beginning to rig another plastic ship, which you can see in the pictures below.  On the second picture, you can see even if something gets caught in the rigging, it will not damage your ship. 
 

 

 

 
I hope this helps.