BareHook

Very nice hooks.  I know how small these actually are and how finicky it is to make the hooks and strop them.  Here are some of my blocks with hooks.  The bottom block is a 2mm.  The two above that are 3/32".   This is about as small as I can make a reasonably good looking hook.
 
Chuck
 

Folks,
 
there are currently on the French Market some graphic novels depicting the kind of ships the members of this forum enjoy to build. These novels are extremely well drawn and the attention to details is outstanding. The stories are quite often riveting and the reader has a hard time waiting for the next installment of the series.
 
I believe that some of these series have been translated in German but I am not sure about the English language. Even though you may not read French, the drawings themselves are a treat and would justify the purchase of one or many albums.
 
I wanted to introduce you to two artists:
 
1) Jean-Yves Delitte who is the official artist for the French National Marine Museum and Collections. Jean-Yves produced three series Belem, U-Boat and Black Crow and I have uploaded the front covers of the albums:
 

 

 

 

 
as well as some pictures to show his talents:
 

 
Jean-Yves also authored two books about some famous ships:
 

 

 
2) the second artist is Marc Bourgne who has produced a very large quantities of graphic novels and seems recently to dedicate his time and talents to the series Pirates of Baratavia:
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Here again, the drawings are extremely beautiful and the plots riveting:
 

 
 
 
 

 
I encourage you to procure one or a few of these albums and enjoy the adventures of Corsairs, Pirates, British, American and French naval forces as well as romances and intrigues.
 
Yves

I always cut my planking from 3 or 4 inch wide sheet. If the planks are from a 1/32" thick sheet, I tape a brass bar 1/32" thick by 3/4" or 1" wide to my table, leaving the front edge of the brass without tape. I then use another brass bar on top, overlapping the first by as wide as I want the plank. Now I can slid the wood under the upper piece of brass until it rests against the lower piece of brass and I have an edge to run my blade against. With this setup I can cut as many planks as I need.
 
Bob
 

 

 

 

 
 

Hi friends,
first build the deck beams 1. Gun-Deck for the further interior in Orlop-Deck.
Karl
 
T e i l  31

Hello friends.
There are three rider ( Kattspore ) in all reinforcing the hull.
The hooks and half-hooks of the mainmast step and the mast-step carlings.
These timbers are made up of a number of pieces because of their shape.
 
Karl
 
T e i l  30
 
 

This is a portable bench that I design on Google Sketch up. I want to build it in the near future because I don't own a workshop and I'm working on a balcony or inside according to the weather.
I'm planing to build it from 2 by 4 cm  and 12 by 1,5 cm boards or any cheaper material.
The whole bench is portable as You can see on the pictures, is closes by a piano hinge and can be mounted on a wall with a french cleat and a pull up legs, or can stand on a table top without the legs.
Any suggestions, comments or questions are welcome.
And there are the dimensions on the pictures in mm.

Resubmitting of lost pictures
 
Hi fellow builders,
 
as some of the pics went lost some time ago I have resubmitted these, beginning with # 32 post on page 3
 
Nils
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Hi fellow builders,

in Need for sewed sails, I dared to do self Trials with my wifes sewing machine some months ago. If there is interest in anyone trying likewise, pls. dont hesitate to comunicate your queries here. Also feel free to share your own experience....

I use thin fine weaved Cotton Cloth, use 100% Polyester sewing thread, medium machine needle, textile glue for Fixing, some ordinary paper for Patterns and a soft pencil for drawing the contours from the templates onto the Cloth.

The Cloth is only slightly wettend with laundry starch spray and ironed dry . The soft pencil lines are easy to follow during Transit into the sewing machine. There is no Need for prefixing sewing needles along the seams. The ultimate kick I found was to place a 0,5mm stainles steel wire in spring Quality into the lower (bottom) Portion of the bolt-rope that encloses the sail. Braced to the wind, once mounted you get sails shaped as if the tradewind is just providing Swift sailing

Please follow the (I trust) self explaining Pictures, I added some coments, and a Little Hand scetch for Illustration. It does not Claim to be perfect, but the anxiety for the sewing machine is overcome, improvements are welcome, but last not least the "sewing boat" has been pushed out....


Part 1


sew straight seams horizontal, vertical


follow the soft pencillines on the Cotton cloth


trimm off the edge fringes after doing so, then follow my handscetch at the end of this part 1


spring wire (stainless st)and hollow weaved thicker Polyester tread


sorry, dont know the english Nomination for this seam making device


debur (important !! slightly round)wire edge and push gently though the weaved thread
Surplus wire endings shall be made to small Loops for the the sail bottom bolt-rope rings


stay sail pattern


after many Trials,.... seem to work now...


Comes out of the machine quite clean and neat now


should be self explaining... come on pls.get out your german/ engl. dictionary.
Of course I shall be happy if I can help....


Part 2 to follow

I'm relatively new to ship modeling, and lately have been cutting some pieces out from patterns for spiling, etc.  I started by using rubber cement to adhere the pattern to the wood, but didn't like the amount of mess and the residue left on the wood.  I've tried a few other glues, but they basically gave me the same issues.
 
My wife is a quilter, and suggested using freezer paper (she calls it the quilter's best friend):  draw the pattern on the plain side of the paper, put the waxy side down on the wood, and iron it onto the wood with a low-temperature iron.  It worked great!  Adheres to the wood and doesn't move around while working with it, then easily peals off with no residue on the wood.  A side benefit is that the pattern can be reused if desired, since the wax on the back doesn't come off on the wood.
 
Since this worked, I wondered how the paper would work in a printer.  I cut a piece to 8.5X11, flattened it by rolling it around a piece of pvc pipe a few times, then printed a test pattern on it in my inkjet printer (I don't think this would work in a laser printer because of the heat).  It worked great.  Now when I learn to use CAD and learn to loft frames using CAD, I'll be able to print out self-adhering patterns.
 
Frank

As five hands sometimes are not enough for rigging, I build myself a small rigging bench.
 

 
An inclined plane with a pin in the middle ...
 
 
 
... and two hairgrips on a holder. The holder can be fixed also pointing the other direction - or being left off - ...
 

 
... and even tiny bits can be worked on with ease :-)
 
For serving small parts I included a hook on a thread. Turning the part in between the fingers, it is still nicely held under tension and does not wobble around  :-)
 

 
These are the nice bits one can do with it ...
 

 
... and even to be repeated precisely :-)
 

 
Gruß, DAniel

Hi friends,
new pictures of the construction progress of the Bonhomme.
Regards Karl
 
 
T e i l  28

Well I thought I'd put the start of the plans out here and get the thread up and running. 
 
I'm still counting out and converting block and line sizes (makes for hours of fun for the whole family)
 
I have to actually do it twice as I'm going to use Chuck's (SyrenModelingCompany) blocks and line but I also have to have the comparable product accounted for from Expo/Shipway as well that will be included in the kit.
 
In addition to the rig I have to draw out and construct the remaining open launches, draw and create the additional anchors and a few other details (ideas) that I have.
 
I'll say it now (although I'm certain I'll say it again) there will be no sail plan.
 
Sam
 
 
ESSEX RIGGING PLAN 062013.pdf

One thing to consider is whether or not to glue the mast in the hull. If you have a slightly oversized hole, you can fine tune the mast alignment as the standing rigging (stays and shrouds) are added, and they will hold the mast in place. On the old site, there was a thread discussing glueing masts, and I think it was an even split whether to glue or not. I you get it close, either way you should be able to fine tune it with the rigging.
 
Ken

No worries! you guys are the "Gold Standard" for customer service IMHO.
 
Ken

One thing to consider is whether or not to glue the mast in the hull. If you have a slightly oversized hole, you can fine tune the mast alignment as the standing rigging (stays and shrouds) are added, and they will hold the mast in place. On the old site, there was a thread discussing glueing masts, and I think it was an even split whether to glue or not. I you get it close, either way you should be able to fine tune it with the rigging.
 
Ken

I've finished rigging the anchors, I went with having them lashed since I'm planning on having her under sail.
I was ready to pull my hair out rigging the bouys...  that was a very fiddly task, and causes me to worry somewhat about the rigging process.
The cannons are loosly placed, next is to rig the tackle and bond them in place.
I need to build my block tumbler to help out with all the cannon tackle blocks, I purchased a set of 1/8" blocks to use instead of the 5/32" ones.
I want to finish the bowsprit, I've been looking for a pine stain that is waterbase, and may try a couple different paints that are close in color.

Down the "rabbet" hole you go "Alice" no turning back, but will be a fun adventure
Ken

Modern day Noah's Arc?

I was at Michael's and found these rings and pins in the jewelry making section. They have a durable black finish and are made from some type of steel.
 
Ken

I've been warned so many times not to glue the masts in that I'd be scared to do so!
 
For alignment, I use the little jib described in Mastini's Ship Modeling Simplified.  It's just two small dowels of equal length, placed parallel to each other and pinned together at one end. It's a little bipod.  With the two ends placed against the bulkheads, the pin should be right in the middle of the mast.  It's really easy to check alignment as you work.  On my Scottish Maid, the foremast alignment was a little tricky.  I used the shrouds to hold it properly in place and checked as I progressed with the "mast alignment tool."  Worked out just fine.
 
 
 
Dan

Someone might find this useful
 
http://www.animatedknots.com/knotlist.php?LogoImage=LogoGrog.jpg&Website=www.animatedknots.com
 

I bought the AL independence for three reasons
It is a ficticious kit, so I don't feel bad about renaming it after one of my kids for a gift. It is a larger scale 1:36 for planking practise and building, plus particular kid has some vision impairment, so larger size is easier to see. Price on Ebay was hard to beat. Ken

One thing to consider is whether or not to glue the mast in the hull. If you have a slightly oversized hole, you can fine tune the mast alignment as the standing rigging (stays and shrouds) are added, and they will hold the mast in place. On the old site, there was a thread discussing glueing masts, and I think it was an even split whether to glue or not. I you get it close, either way you should be able to fine tune it with the rigging.
 
Ken

This gave me an idea, what if you get adhesive backed copper tape (as used for coppering the hull) cut into thin strips and blackened chemically or with a marker. You then just apply the strips around the barrel.
 
Ken

This gave me an idea, what if you get adhesive backed copper tape (as used for coppering the hull) cut into thin strips and blackened chemically or with a marker. You then just apply the strips around the barrel.
 
Ken

This gave me an idea, what if you get adhesive backed copper tape (as used for coppering the hull) cut into thin strips and blackened chemically or with a marker. You then just apply the strips around the barrel.
 
Ken