Beef Wellington

Thanks whitejames, Eamonn, Joe, Martin, Stergios, mugje, Mike and all the 'likes' for the continued interest and encouragement.  Happy New year to everyone!
 
Anchors:
Adding some appropriate features here at the bow will do much to enhance the overall look of the model, the kit itself leaves the bow area a little sparse, especially the rigging which has already been commented on.  The kit provides 4 full sized 'bower' anchors.  However, Steele indicates that a ship of Snakes size and class would only carry 3, in addition to a smaller kedge and stream anchor : “Ships of 110 to, 100, 98, and 90 guns, have seven anchors; from 80 to 20 guns inclusive, 6 anchors; ships of 300 tons, and sloops, have 5; and brigs and cutters 3 anchors.” - This would include the large (best, small, and spare) bower anchors, stream and kedge anchors.
 
As for positioning, per Steele:  "The spare anchor is stowed on the starboard side, and is seldom used, but when one of the others is lost......The stream anchor is stowed on the spare anchor; and, when used, it is sent in the long-boat or launch, with its cable bent, and let go at any particular spot, either for steadying the ship, when riding by only one bower, or to assist a ship when in shore, or to warp her, &c. ......the kedge is stowed on the stream and spare anchors, and is frequently used to stop a ship for a tide in little winds…”
 
A number of years ago (!) I had purchased a smaller Caldercraft anchor for the kedge anchor, and luckily was able to find it.  Not much to cover in the making up of these anchors, which had previously started some time ago.  The ends of the stocks were rounded of and tapered.  One mistake I did make that I am now aware of is that there should be gap between the two halves, speculating to retard rot.  I found the 'puddening' particular challenging to complete as the pieces are hard to hold securely but finally got there - once again the 'springiness' of the kit supplied rope seems very capable of undoing work at the most inconvenient moment.
 
The next question was how to install on the model.  Info on anchor handling practices seems to be a little sparse, with diagrams and descriptions appearing in 'Lever' being replicated in other reference books.  Other logs, especially BE's fantastic Pegasus build, helped fill in areas of confusion.  Again Steele sheds a bit more light:  “The best bower is then placed forward near the bows on the starboard side; the small bower near the bows on the larboard side, a little abaft their respective catheads; and are secured by their stoppers, from the catheads and shank-painters. The stopper has one end clinched round the cathead; the other end passes through the ring of the anchor, returns upwards, and leads over a large thumb cleat bolted to the cathead, and is made fast with several turns, and the end hitched round the head-rail and timber-head, on the fore side of the cathead.”

Anchor hawse clinch:
The approach to attaching the hawse to the anchors using a clinch is shown pretty clearly in 'Lever'.  A bight is made by lashings ("no larger than the anchor ring") and the hawse fed through the anchor ring and the bight.  Nothing too complicated, but this was rather tricky to execute because it needed to be done in situ, a tin was used to rest the anchor while this was performed.  Before the last bight lashings were put on, the intended end of the hawse was seized to prevent it unravelling once cut.  This approach seemed to work well, and the extra untrimmed length of the hawse was helpful in keeping things positioned to allow the last lashing to be put in place.
 

Anchor stopper:
Per Steele:  "The stopper has one end clinched round the cathead; the other end passes through the ring of the anchor, returns upwards, and leads over a large thumb cleat bolted to the cathead, and is made fast with several turns, and the end hitched round the head-rail and timber-head, on the fore side of the cathead." 
 
The rope would likely need to be reasonably substantial, and given a diagram in Lever which corroborated, 0.75mm rope was used.  Although the size looked appropriate, the poor quality of the kit rope led me to look for options, and a solution became clear after looking at some photo's of Victory.  It seems the stopper was served (presumably for protection), so this was replicated and it went a long way to improving the visual appeal.
 

Cat block:
The cat blocks seem to be a nice feature to add for visual interest.  The blocks were made up from a couple of kit 7mm double blocks and shaped.  Card was used for the iron band and brass ringbolts used for the hook and the simulated axle.  A small PE eye bolt was installed on the rear of the cathead and 0.5mm line attached and fed through the block before securing to a cleat at the base.
 

 
Shank painter:
Per Steele:  "The shank-painter hangs the shank and fluke of the anchor to the ship's side outboard; and when stowed, the shank-painter is passed under the inner fluke round the shank of the anchor, and made fast with two or three turns, and the end stopt round timber-heads on the forecastle."  Lever also has a well replicated diagram showing how this would be used.
 
Luckily I had some spare chain left over from the rudder, and this was used for the shank painter together with some 0.5mm line.  At first, I felt this was a little oversized, but looking at photos again of Victory it doesn't seem too out of line.  Against the black background of the hull it sits OK with my eye.  I suspect that the end of the chain ended in a hook, but this detail was omitted for convenience, as it would not be very visible.
 

Undecided as of now whether to leave the port anchor suspended from the catblock or replicate that used on the starboard side.

 

This is looking really spectacular. Great photography too. 

Jason Mate .. That is outstanding !
 
Eamonn

Looking good Jason. Home stretch!

Wow!  It all looks really good, Jason.  I'm jealous!
 
Cheers,
 
Martin

Jason, you a master!
A master of naval architecture and in the same time a master of photography!!
Cheers 
 
Stergios 

What a great ship model. He is really very impressive. Well done !

Quite remarkable rigging and photography, Jason.

So clean! 😮

Well, I knew there were some plans slipped under the dust jacket, but I only got round to checking them today - what glory!
 

Beautiful boat and exquisite workmanship, and educational as always. Congratulations, Seasons Greetings and Cheers (to 2021) and a new build (and bathroom..)!  

Mike when I experienced this issue I also tried a self-made drill very similar in concept to what you have made (based on a Russian modeller's ideas [posted in MSW generation 1])
 
I also experienced the slippage on the bit, and also found I did not have the level of control I desired.  Based on the advice offered by Paul Budzic (Rotary Hand Tools for Scale Modeling - YouTube), I looked around for an affordable dental handpiece (micromotor).
 
I found a very affordable one on eBay that had all the features I needed including variable speed, high top speed, low speed with sufficient torque, a  foot or front panel  controller, and most importantly it was light and easy to manoeuvre/handle the hand-piece even inside the hull (1:64).  The machine came with a straight and contra angle end-piece and accepts the standard 2.3xx mm shaft dental drills, burs, cut-off disc etc.  These are easily purchased through eBay but for better quality a chat with your preferred Jeweller's Supplier will give you an idea of what you can get.  I have a full range of micro-drill bits ranging from 0.3 through 2.0 mm (anything larger I use my Dremel with standard small drill bits), some excellent carbon-fibre cut off discs and burrs etc.  Some of these can be expensive but the quality is great and last a lot longer than the cheaper versions.
 
You may wish to take a look at such an option?
 
cheers
 
Pat

Beautiful boat and exquisite workmanship, and educational as always. Congratulations, Seasons Greetings and Cheers (to 2021) and a new build (and bathroom..)!  

Season's greetings Stergios!  Can't say definitively whether this is definitively right or wrong, but it is at least consistent with the plans and various references I could find.  It gets pretty crowded in there 🙂  Hope this helps.

Beautiful boat and exquisite workmanship, and educational as always. Congratulations, Seasons Greetings and Cheers (to 2021) and a new build (and bathroom..)!  

Cheers Guys, nearly there now.
 
Post 51
 
Crewing the Boat
 
I like to include a figure or two on a model purely for scale reference purposes. In the case of a Zulu the entire crew can be represented as it comprised no more than six including a boy.
 
 
I prefer to display them as silhouette figures by either painting or chemically blackening depending on the medium.
 
This also neatly avoids testing my very limited figure painting skills.
 

9494(2)
For the crew I am using Modellu figures in S scale (1:64) and they are an excellent fit to the model and very finely detailed.

9501(2)
Modellu don’t do specific Fishing boat crew figures, but their industrial, farming, and gardening figures provide reasonably suitable candidates.
 
Deck accessories
 
Edgar March gives useful details of these additions.
 
 
Six oars 26’ long with a blade of 12’ x 5”
 
They are more like sweeps than oars and were used to row the boat out of the harbour and very hard work it must have been. Sockets to take the thole pins were fitted between the stringer and rail.
 
At scale these work out at:
o/a length 124mm with a blade 57mm x 2mm.
 
The oars at this scale are quite delicate. The shafts are made from 1.5mm Boxwood square stock and the blades from 2.4mm x 0.7mm Boxwood strip.
 

9520(2)
When I made a prototype to these dimensions, I was struck by the seemingly long length of the blade which looked out of proportion to the overall length, but as best as I can gauge from photo’s, Gordon Williams reproduced them to the same proportions.
 

9543(2)
There was quite an attrition rate in making the oars, ten started to produce six.
 
 
 
Two Push sticks or wands 36’ x 2¾” ø
 
These were used like punt poles for manoeuvring and fending off.
 

9541(2)
At scale: 171mm x 1mm ø
 
One Boathook 14’ x 2” ø

9544(2)
At scale;
67mm x 0.80mm
 
 
Spar for squaring jib when running 36’ x 6” ø
 

9525(2)
I’m not quite sure how this was used, but it does present another large impediment on the deck.
At scale: 171mm x 2.5mm
 
 
This is a lot of stuff to be lying on the deck; how was it positioned to not interfere with handling the boat or when fishing; how was it secured to stop it sliding about or going overboard in rough weather?
 
 
It was all certainly there as many old b/w photo’s, including the one below testify, The crew must have been pretty nimble of foot to handle the boat in a lively sea whilst negotiating all this deck hamper.
 

9527
Zulu British Ensign leaving port.
 
One of the crew members can be seen using the Wand at the stern and one of the oars is also in use. The large amount of clutter on the deck is clearly evident.
 
 
Still these items do add to the interest on the model and give some idea of the conditions in which these boats were worked.
 
 
The next post will see the model finished with the completion photo’s.
 
 
 
 
B.E.
27/12/20

Thank you John and Martin.
Post 50


 
Snaggings And Dressings


 
As the build nears completion the eye finds lots of little areas needing attention such as marks on the paintwork, small items I forgot to complete, and general cleaning.


 
Firstly, having got all the rigging lines in place the next task is to arrange the falls.


9508
I have deliberately not been too tidy in laying out the lines; having looked at many old photo’s of working boats of the era, Navy style is not to the forefront of Fishermen concerns, but  most of those photo’s  are taken in port during the unloading of the catch when a degree of working detritus may be expected.


9506
The skill in the handling of those enormous lugs by only three or four men is beyond question.


9511
I very much doubt that the line falls were left in such a state that increased the risk of fouling or tripping, there were hazards enough in working these boats in an unforgiving North Sea.

 
Dressing the model.


 
Time for some basket weaving – a matter of Crans.


 
Crans are the official measure of a quantity of Herring




Their size was regulated and standardized by government decree as a legal measure.


 
The 1832 Act set the cran at 30 inches high, the diameter at its widest 21.9 inches and at the base 18.9 inches – at scale this represents:
 

H = 12mm, diameter at top 9mm, diameter at base 7.5mm


 
I made a set of three crans for my Fifie build and I hope to repeat the exercise here with a little improvement.


9471(2)
Basket bases

In practice the bases would have been woven in the traditional form.

 

9477
0.5mm brass wire form the rods, 0.1mm line the weave.

 

9480
The long uprights will form the handles.



9502
 
Four is about as much as my patience will stand.

The piece on the right is a gauge for measuring the top circumference.



9513
The completed set.

 
When it comes to the Silver Darlings this is how they translate to a 1:64 scale.


In this image about three times the size of the actual.


 
Am I going to carefully cut out a crans worth ? are you insane!
 
 
 
This is my last post before Christmas, but I will continue working on the remaining fittings.


 
Stay safe folks in these strange times.


 
B.E.

23/12/2020

Cheers Guys for you ongoing support, much appreciated.
 
Post 49


The Rigging Part Four


 
Rigging the jib

 
This is the last piece of rigging fitted to the model.
 

9427(2)
Before I start, I need to make two hooked tackle blocks and a Cranse iron.


9434(2)
The kit provided Cranse Iron suffers from the limitations of Photo etch, being flat in profile with the ring that takes the tack hook being in the wrong plane.

 
Three connections (cringles) secure and work the Jib sail. At the peak, for the Halyard, at the clue, for the sheets, and at the stay for the Tack.


 
The kit jib is fitted with a simple cringle at the peak for the Halyard attachment, whereas the Underhill plans show a jack yard attachment at the head of the sail. Again there is mention of the use of a Sister Hook to secure the halyard to the jack yard strop.


 
Too risky to start messing about with the sail, the possibility of fraying bolt ropes overrides the merit of adding this small detail.

 

9459
The halyard runs thro’ the upper half sheave at the Fore masthead.


 
I have used 0.30mm line for the Halyard, and 0.20mm line for the tackle falls


9461(2)
At its end there is a tackle (6”(3mm) blocks). The upper block is hooked to an eye in the Halyard, and the lower block is hooked to a bolt thro’ the stringer.


The halyard tackle is secured between the Fore yard halyard and the Burton pendent tackles.


9448
The tack is hooked to the Cranse iron to which both the outhaul and inhaul lines are also attached.

 

9449(2)
The outhaul runs thro’ the sheave in the Bowsprit end, thro’ the sheave set low down on the Starboard side stem, up thro’ the fairlead at the bow to belay inboard at a cleat.

The inhaul runs directly inboard to belay at the large cleat fixed to the skegs on the Port side.


 
The sheets (0.30mm line) are doubled thro’ the clew cringle and belay port and starboard at the kevels.

 

9443
Jib sheet to the Port side kevel.


9442
Jib sheet to the Starboard side kevel.


9454
I love the lines of these fast sleek boats.



9440(2)

9446(2)
All the rigging is now in place but will still need tweaking and the line ends properly belayed, that is the next task.

 
 
B.E.

18/12/20


 


 

Stays are getting there. Few still to be done but most are prepared with seizing.
Holiday vacation has given me some good hours on build almost every evening. 
Funny: i was afraid of rigging but now i somehow love it. Its like the ship becomes alive. Big help from Thunder and Snake builds explains some questionable places and also books help alot. Allready doing some modifications on rigging that CC drawings dont show exaxtly how to do.
 
An other note-i know my seizing isnt historically 100% correct-will do that better next time  . 

So painting and masking, base coat done for the big bits 

Hello all so Iv been working on snake today I have glued the deck on as well as pinned the gunport bulwarks into position and glued the walnut keel on the stern facia and stern counter have both been applied to the model. 
I am all set now to start the first planking one of my favourite parts of the build. 

Sorry about the gap in reporting.  I have attached all the shrouds and begun the laborious task of tying all the ratlines...there are a lot. I used 0.25mm natural line which I stained in India Ink.  Each individual line was run through a beeswax block to add a little wax and eliminate line kinks, the wax also helped the knots (clove hitches) slide together by reducing friction.  I set each line at 6mm and used two methods to get the spacing correct.  One option was to use a couple of pieces of 6mm plank held onto the shrouds by pegs. This method did allow all the knots even in size and the line straight as I could rest the knots on the wood which gave a little substance to the operation but was slow(ish) - if not correctly tightened the pieces of wood force the knot down the shroud - I did  three lines and then washed them with dilute PVA, allow it to dry before starting the next group.  By alternating between the three sets of shrouds, I was able to keep tying as the glue dried.  I became reasonably efficient.    For the main mast shrouds I used a printed sheet cut to shape with a matrix of lines against which I could place my knots: reasonably efficient although you do have to be careful not to knock/misalign the paper. 
 
Do avoid my school boy error.  I set up a table in a word document with 6mm squares or so I thought. In fact my printed sheet came out 5mm by 6mm which I didn't notice until I was half way up the shroud...I had placed 30 odd lines at 5mm apart.  I left them as is and copied the spacing on the opposite side.  You cant notice the difference although it did mean a lot more knots.   
 
Nearly finished.     

Okay - so just looking back at what I did yesterday, I'm still getting confused myself... Here's what I did, using the mizzen mast as the example (the main mast is the same)
 
1. Mizzentopmast stay.
Goes to the block just below the mainmast top, then passes down to the deck where it is secured as shown.
 

 
2. Mizzentopmast preventer stay.
The same, but goes to the block above the mainmast top.
 

 
3. Mizzentopgallantmast stay.
Goes from the hounds of the topgallant to the block on the maintopmast just above the crosstrees, then passes down to the top where it is seized to an eyelet.
 

 
4. Mizzentop royal stay.
Goes from the tip of the topgallant to the block seized round the hounds of the maintopgallant mast, then down to be tied off on the mainmast main shroud behind the mast.
 

 

 
Then rinse and repeat for the main mast, tying off to the fore mast in the respective positions.
 
As always, hope this helps
 
Next post will be on the (somewhat confusing) array of backstays that can be fitted...
 
Happy building
 
Rob

About time I caught up with myself...
 
@Ben - I'm going to have to stand guilty as charged!  Appreciate your post, this was something that I have been wrestling with for some time and fully recognize that the approach taken is a compromise.  My thinking has been as follows, and I suspect that every model builder will arrive at a different place.  Your coils are certainly excellently executed!  
Quality of rope used:  Having used the Syren line on 'Jason', there is just no comparison between good quality custom rope and the 'stuff' supplied in kits.  My skill levels are just not up to achieving consistent coils following a seamanlike practice (that look anywhere near acceptable). Scale:  This seems to be a variable from modeler to modeler, but to my eye many of the coils using this technique just do not look right at scale, especially when many pins are used on a rail adjacent to each other. Much of the rope used per kit instructions are much thinner than your prototype - mostly kit supplied 0.25mm line which is not very substantial and subject to gravity making floating 'ovals' distracting Quantity of rope (on the actual ships):  Looking at many older photographs of ships, the one thing that stands out to me is that the quantity of belayed rope used on contemporary working vessels just looks far more voluminous for whatever reason than that seen on modern 'museum' ships, maybe because of longer working lengths, necessity to be worked by many hands etc etc. The bottom line though is that there is enough on this build that continues to bother me (both mistakes and things that I have since learned) to push me to continue  with an eye to completion.  I'll apply for parole at the duly appointed time...
 
Rigging (almost) complete:
After nearly 7 years, with all the main rigging elements in place, I can start to smell the scent of completion.  The only outstanding rigging feature (in addition to some remaining decorative coils) are the spritsail sail sheets which will be added when I'm confident that the anchor placement won't cause problems.
 
Braces:
One of the bigger challenges were the braces, mainly because many of these are bent onto various stays.  At this scale the rope doesn't behave well, and preventing the stays being pulled into all sorts of unnatural alignments by the much thinner braces, and keeping the braces taught, meant taking this very slowly, ensuring line had time settle into place and in many cases using dilute PVA while attempting to keep the stays in position.  This proved to be especially challenging for the fore and fore topsail braces which bend to the main stay in one rather tight spot.

Sheets, tacks and cluelines:
Petersson was a big help here to illustrate how these worked in practice as the instructions are simplified.  Given that both the main and fore require these, with 3 belaying points for each, some planning is needed to ensure sufficient working room as once in position access is even more severely limited.  The tack is the most substantial of the running rigging used and 0.75mm rope was used as per instructions.  At this thickness, it proved necessary to coil rope on the deck after belaying to pinrails.
 
I took the same approach to BE on his Pegasus build in having the sheets and tacks go outboard of any standing rigging, although the sheets are yet to be finally secured.


And finally, some overall shots..

 
 
 
 
 
 

Will follow along Liam, always good to see a new Snake build.