Beef Wellington

Interesting subject Andy, definitely want to see how this plays out.

AFAIK it depends on the curvature of the deck. If the deck is rather flat (which is the case for bigger ships) most gunports are rather square or rectangled. But take a look at the NMM Plan below (don‘t know if it is speedy or something lookalike). If you follow the deck to the left (stern) or the right (bow) the gunports become more like parallelograms. This is because the sides are defined by the frames of the ship which are usually orthogonal to the waterline or keel while the upper and lower edges of the gunports and sweepports following the deck (and its curve, indicated by the red line on the plan). 

Quite a bit to catch up on Pat, but as others have said your metalwork and soldering are just fantastic.  Looking forward to a few more overall beauty shots hopefully soon 🙂

Fantastic metalwork Pat, pleasure to catch up on all the great progress, the small details are the 'fun' things but make the model IMHO.  Would love to have your abilities here!

Well, here is my finished dinghy. Not perfect but I think she’s seaworthy. Thanks for your likes and comments!
on to my next project...

Hello all, thanks for the comments and likes.
 
Time for another small update.
 
As mentioned in a previous post, I have largely been unable to locate a proper drawing for this particular car, but I do have a drawing of the smaller version in a book:
This was just a quick photograph of the folio drawing. The book, "From Abbey to Zorra via Bagdad" by Dale Wilson, is a based on a copy of the 1955 CPR passenger timetable, and includes many images of some of the passenger rolling stock used by the CPR, as well as copies of the 1949 and 1960 passenger equipment registers. Although the above drawing is of the smaller car, the interior layout is generally the same as the car I am attempting to build.
 
Moving along with the build, I've finished the trim on the corridor side of the car, there is only a few remaining pieces of 1/4 round that will frame the doors (that will have to wait until the car sides and ends are assembled), as well as the mullions for the transom windows. I've also begun work on the smoking room side of the car, cutting out the windows on the sub-side layer. 
This tedious task has now been completed (thankfully)
The two layers have now been glued up. After the glue has had a chance to set, the next step will involve cutting out the transoms on the outer layer, as was done on the corridor side. Although tedious and repetitive, things are still moving forward at a fairly steady pace, assembly is starting to look like a looming possibility.
 
Andy

Hi,
 
Now i can start rigging the cannons. Seems to be almost endless but is fun


 

After I had finished rigging I started the details on the upper gun deck
The first thing i did was assemble the bilge pump

Then i assembled the stairs and the railing
Finally I sanded the skid beam support pillars square and glued it on deck

After everything was done, I started fitting the quarterdeck. The assembly of the sliding clamps was a bit tricky


The planking of the quarterdeck can begin

I have cut off the bulkhead so that I can assemble the inner gunport patterns and planked it



Then I painted them


 
Forecastle breast beam

Bellhouse


 
Now all the details on the inner gunport


Assemble the copper profiles and the channels
In the channels I drilled a 1 mm hole and put in a brass pin with cut off the head.
So that i can mount the channels on the hull   Helli  

According to TFFM the elm tree pumps also terminate in the bilge, very similar to the low point of the chain pumps.  Your identification of the placement for the elmtree pumps is consistent in the photo above.

You have a very fine model coming together there Helli.

Since I have little time, I left my SMS Seydlitz in her mothballs and picked up this little build.

The only thing I can say: "it is small!!!" and it is almost finished before you start it
 
Resin and PE ready for painting

 
Base coat "Black base" with chrome - both AK extreme metal colours - enamels

 
Base colour is RLM 66 some details filled in with colours, and metal PE which has been prepainted - Vallejo acrylics - added a bit of wear and tear

 
Getting the PE, resin, and plastic fitted took the better part of an eveing, painting took in all about 1.5 - 2 hours. Quite a fun model to build despite it's size, lot's of detail on the resin parts too
 
Cheers

Hi Jim, your analysis seems sound.  The pumps would all have been contained within the well around the mainmast, and would need to be forward of the chain pumps and aft of the pillar with the rhodings for the Axeltree.  Any other location would interfere with the working of the fore and aft winches when installed.   The only remaining question is why they are missing from your reference material, and that's a mystery.  I would include them if I were in your shoes. 
 
As to the number of chain pumps, I can only speculate its down to the size of the ship.  There is ample evidence for there being 4 on 1st and 2nd rate ships of the line, and similarly 2 on smaller 5th rates, so logically there must be a cross over point wherever that is.  Don't think I've seen any discussion on that, but 2 doesn't seem unreasonable on a 50 gun 4th rate.

According to TFFM the elm tree pumps also terminate in the bilge, very similar to the low point of the chain pumps.  Your identification of the placement for the elmtree pumps is consistent in the photo above.

Thanks, Paul, my wife is starting to get nervous about how long it is taking me to finish this project. She doesn't know what to do with it if I pass on before it is done, and I think she is looking forward to putting my ashes on it and floating it out into the lake on fire. She hasn't noticed that it has no planking below the waterline...So I thought I better pick up the pace a little with some shortcuts.
 
And thanks, Grant, I was afraid the secret would get out...☺️
 
We had a snowstorm last night, plus nowhere else to go while sheltering in place, so I got more done today.
 
I was finally able to trim the planking back to the lower and upper counters, turning the hull upside down so I could see what I was doing. This was pretty tricky doing, trying to clean up the edge flush with the counters, while avoiding sanding anymore into the counter surface itself. I wrapped sandpaper around half the length of a large dowel, with manila file folder stock wrapped around the other half. This was to ensure that the manila folder stock would ride on the counter surface as a stop, preventing the sandpaper from sanding any more when it got to the final surface.

Then turned upright again, I was able to attach the moulding at the top of the upper counter, just to see how the lines are looking. I still need to do some trimming on the planking at the lower edge of the upper counter, as you can see. You can also see in this photo how much the planking following the outboard sheer climbs quite high relative to the the line of the decks and therefore the ports. Although it is kind of visually awkward how the one just cuts across the other, it is also this exaggerated sheer that I think makes this generation of ships so beautiful.
 

 
 
 

Just thought I’d let you know of an error in the placing of the pillars near the binnacle and under the poop deck for anyone doing corels Bellona. The first pic is where I had them originally and the second pic is the correct positioning with one single pillar in front of the binnacle and the other two further under the poop deck.

Hi Jim, your analysis seems sound.  The pumps would all have been contained within the well around the mainmast, and would need to be forward of the chain pumps and aft of the pillar with the rhodings for the Axeltree.  Any other location would interfere with the working of the fore and aft winches when installed.   The only remaining question is why they are missing from your reference material, and that's a mystery.  I would include them if I were in your shoes. 
 
As to the number of chain pumps, I can only speculate its down to the size of the ship.  There is ample evidence for there being 4 on 1st and 2nd rate ships of the line, and similarly 2 on smaller 5th rates, so logically there must be a cross over point wherever that is.  Don't think I've seen any discussion on that, but 2 doesn't seem unreasonable on a 50 gun 4th rate.

Glad to have you follow along Jean-Paul, I very much enjoyed reading through your QAB log, a model to aspire to.
 
Frame Installation:
 
Additional work done on the keel was some final shaping of the stern post, finishing of the keel taper, installation of the transom, and a coat of wipe on poly for protection.  One thing I have noticed with cherry is the grain can cause optical illusions.  In a couple of places I know the surface is as smooth as I can make it, but the grain makes it appear quite course still.
 
I had been working on making up the frames for some time, for many this simply requires to a frame foot to be glued to its corresponding futtock after cleaning off some areas of laser char.  Pretty simple as each has its own guideline which is well explained in the instructions.  The grooves on the assembly board needed to be filed out a little to allow the frames to be inserted, primarily due to the thickness of the wood and the slight angle introduced by the laser cutter.
 
I think this is good opportunity to share an observation about the kit.  It is definitely a well thought out design with very clear instructions, however, that does not mean that some experience is not required as I was soon to find out....I'm sharing my experience below because every other build log of this kit seems to go together without a hitch, so a little humbling that I found this so problematic.
 
First Attempt:
First off, the assembled frames were inserted and the keel glued according to the instructions making sure that frames aligned well beforehand and that the bottom of the frame floor were at the right height to sit in the keel, and best effort to keep this in a straight line as well as by eyeball trying to keep what will be the top of the frames smoothly aligned.  Everything seemed to work fine, and once the glue had had sufficient time to set, I started to fair the frames.  This is when a first inkling of problems started, I noticed that some of the frames were moving in their slots, and upon further investigation some the frames were not really secured solidly to the keel.  Although the planking will definitely add to the strength, I wasn't convinced the frames would be rigid enough to allow planks to be installed.   Given the construction method, its not possible to remove and re-glue a single frame, so the isopropyl alcohol was brought out to remove all the frames....
 

 
Second Attempt:
Upon analysis two things became clear.  I hadn't used enough glue in the joints, and that my judgement of what 'play' was needed for the frames in the build board was wrong (the instructions say that these shouldn't be too tight or too loose), but it was really only trying to go through the process of fairing that indicated what this should be.  Some tape was added as suggested in the instructions to more rigidly seat these, and the process to align and glue repeated (using more glue this time around).  Unfortunately, in the final stages of seating everything,  I somehow placed too much pressure on frame G and the result was that the frame foot broke in two places, and the small tabs on one side of the futtock popped prematurely (these are weak by design to allow easier removal at a later stage).  The isopropyl alcohol was brought out once more to remove all the frames........I don't have any photos of this, honestly I was too despondent to record it...
 
Third (and so far final attempt):
After examining the break, the cherry had broken with the grain and looked like it could be repaired.  These are delicate pieces, but I don't think will be subject to much stress once the planks are on.  The breaks were located on each side of the foot where there is a small dark element of grain, and can just be seen in photos below.  The small tabs on the futtock were also given a tiny spot of glue, and to hopefully provide a little more strength a splint was glued to the central section to absorb some of the shearing forces that will be unavoidable while fairing the frames (this is NOT glued to the actual futtock itself). 
 
So far, things seem to be back on track, and work has resumed on fairing the frames which is where things sit currently.
 

That's looking really good Jesse, love the look of your model and flags are definitely in keeping.

You have a very fine model coming together there Helli.

For the oars, I rounded out the interior side of the mahogany pieces so they fit flush with the 1/8” dowel. The fit was perfect and sanded down with no need for filler in the gap that would have been there if left flat. I don’t have a mill so it was freehand. 

Looking sweet Eamon, that's a very sharp looking false sheave.

Hi,
 
It continues with the planking of the inner bulark gunport pattern and the production of the other details from the upper gun deck




Now the cannons can be assembled.
For this I made a template with which I can drill the cannons at a 45 ° angle. Then I made a strap with a 1mm wire


Then the cannons are assembled


I had to make a small tool to bend the cannon axis bracket (by Charter 33)





Then I could start painting the hull.

And now the copper



 
To finish off the copper plates, I sanded back an L-profile made of plastic on one leg so that it just barely covered the copper plates

Then I drilled the holes for the dummy cannons. So that I can drill horizontally, I built an auxiliary device as shown in the picture

 
Helli
 
 

Hey There Folks .. Time for another Exciting Ballahoo Update .... (Hopefully I'll be able to go an entire Post without using the St*cK word)
 
I have the anchors 90% complete, just waiting for material to make the Bands (You know, those Bands that go on the 'Wooden Cross Piece' .. yes that piece.. am determined not to say it.. 😁 ) and delivery was for yesterday, but what the World in turmoil at present it might be a wee bit longer arriving..
 
This time around I went back to finish the Boom and get going on the Gaff also ..
 
I made up the 'Strop' that holds the Top Block of the Boom Sheet , you can just about make it out in the photo, it is made of Served rope with two loops that are lashed together to the side with the bight of the rope seized around the block..  The foot ropes were added as was the Cleat and attaching point for the pulley arrangement  (underside of boom) that tightens/operates the Clew of the sail (am trying to work out if this same pulley /cleat doubles up to also tighten/operate the Boom topping lift (when not used for the sail) as I'll be making the Topping Lift fast to the boom via a Block fitted to the end of the Boom as opposed to the Ballahoo Plan version which sees the Topping Lift go to the Mast head and then down the mast to be belayed on deck (at the foot of the mast)
My next thoughts are with Boom Guy Pendant(s) (attached at the boom where the Sheet Block is made fast) then properly onto the Gaffs and their attendant Blocks and Fittings
 
All The Very Best From Rapid Fast Boat Builders previously known as Glacial Boat Builders
 
Take Care Folks & Thanks For Stopping By
 
Eamonn
 
PS in the photo you will see a rather nice wooden cleat (almost completed)  that I was happily carving until I remembered the Kit came with about a dozen pre-made !!

Glad to have you follow along Jean-Paul, I very much enjoyed reading through your QAB log, a model to aspire to.
 
Frame Installation:
 
Additional work done on the keel was some final shaping of the stern post, finishing of the keel taper, installation of the transom, and a coat of wipe on poly for protection.  One thing I have noticed with cherry is the grain can cause optical illusions.  In a couple of places I know the surface is as smooth as I can make it, but the grain makes it appear quite course still.
 
I had been working on making up the frames for some time, for many this simply requires to a frame foot to be glued to its corresponding futtock after cleaning off some areas of laser char.  Pretty simple as each has its own guideline which is well explained in the instructions.  The grooves on the assembly board needed to be filed out a little to allow the frames to be inserted, primarily due to the thickness of the wood and the slight angle introduced by the laser cutter.
 
I think this is good opportunity to share an observation about the kit.  It is definitely a well thought out design with very clear instructions, however, that does not mean that some experience is not required as I was soon to find out....I'm sharing my experience below because every other build log of this kit seems to go together without a hitch, so a little humbling that I found this so problematic.
 
First Attempt:
First off, the assembled frames were inserted and the keel glued according to the instructions making sure that frames aligned well beforehand and that the bottom of the frame floor were at the right height to sit in the keel, and best effort to keep this in a straight line as well as by eyeball trying to keep what will be the top of the frames smoothly aligned.  Everything seemed to work fine, and once the glue had had sufficient time to set, I started to fair the frames.  This is when a first inkling of problems started, I noticed that some of the frames were moving in their slots, and upon further investigation some the frames were not really secured solidly to the keel.  Although the planking will definitely add to the strength, I wasn't convinced the frames would be rigid enough to allow planks to be installed.   Given the construction method, its not possible to remove and re-glue a single frame, so the isopropyl alcohol was brought out to remove all the frames....
 

 
Second Attempt:
Upon analysis two things became clear.  I hadn't used enough glue in the joints, and that my judgement of what 'play' was needed for the frames in the build board was wrong (the instructions say that these shouldn't be too tight or too loose), but it was really only trying to go through the process of fairing that indicated what this should be.  Some tape was added as suggested in the instructions to more rigidly seat these, and the process to align and glue repeated (using more glue this time around).  Unfortunately, in the final stages of seating everything,  I somehow placed too much pressure on frame G and the result was that the frame foot broke in two places, and the small tabs on one side of the futtock popped prematurely (these are weak by design to allow easier removal at a later stage).  The isopropyl alcohol was brought out once more to remove all the frames........I don't have any photos of this, honestly I was too despondent to record it...
 
Third (and so far final attempt):
After examining the break, the cherry had broken with the grain and looked like it could be repaired.  These are delicate pieces, but I don't think will be subject to much stress once the planks are on.  The breaks were located on each side of the foot where there is a small dark element of grain, and can just be seen in photos below.  The small tabs on the futtock were also given a tiny spot of glue, and to hopefully provide a little more strength a splint was glued to the central section to absorb some of the shearing forces that will be unavoidable while fairing the frames (this is NOT glued to the actual futtock itself). 
 
So far, things seem to be back on track, and work has resumed on fairing the frames which is where things sit currently.
 

Some further work started as I received the PE I had drawn up, which I then send off to have etched.  The sheet is .025mm thick
 
Cheek Blocks - once I have parted the the base (backing) and top piece s off, I give them a touch up with the file.  I then drill out/clean up the holes to 0.6 mm diameter, then fold down the side pieces.  I then thread the base, sheave and top piece onto some 0.6mm brass wire and place into one of the holes in the soldering jig ready for soldering.  Once silver soldered, they need to be cleaned up before blackening.




I have also completed the Bowsprit Cap, adding the upper side lugs (for the foot ropes out to the end of the Jibboom) and the horns for the manropes (lead aft to stanchions on the knight heads.  The two horns have holes through the knob for the manropes but cannot be seen in the photo. The lower side lugs are for the Bowsprit Guys/shrouds, and the bottom lugs for the martingale (forward hole) and the Bobstay.  The start of the process for making this is shown at post #528 earlier on this page.  the whole of this assembly has been silver soldered together for strength.  Solder was needed for holding the base of the pin in the drilled holes as the depth is only about 0.2 mm and CA would have marred the blackening process.


The size of these made polishing the brass very difficult, especially with such thin walls etc; so some scratch/filing marks remain.  These are very close up shots, that I have sharpened a bit which enhances the scratches; the marks cannot be seen to the naked eye from about 150mms (6 inches) away.
 
cheers
 
Pat

Glad to have you follow along Jean-Paul, I very much enjoyed reading through your QAB log, a model to aspire to.
 
Frame Installation:
 
Additional work done on the keel was some final shaping of the stern post, finishing of the keel taper, installation of the transom, and a coat of wipe on poly for protection.  One thing I have noticed with cherry is the grain can cause optical illusions.  In a couple of places I know the surface is as smooth as I can make it, but the grain makes it appear quite course still.
 
I had been working on making up the frames for some time, for many this simply requires to a frame foot to be glued to its corresponding futtock after cleaning off some areas of laser char.  Pretty simple as each has its own guideline which is well explained in the instructions.  The grooves on the assembly board needed to be filed out a little to allow the frames to be inserted, primarily due to the thickness of the wood and the slight angle introduced by the laser cutter.
 
I think this is good opportunity to share an observation about the kit.  It is definitely a well thought out design with very clear instructions, however, that does not mean that some experience is not required as I was soon to find out....I'm sharing my experience below because every other build log of this kit seems to go together without a hitch, so a little humbling that I found this so problematic.
 
First Attempt:
First off, the assembled frames were inserted and the keel glued according to the instructions making sure that frames aligned well beforehand and that the bottom of the frame floor were at the right height to sit in the keel, and best effort to keep this in a straight line as well as by eyeball trying to keep what will be the top of the frames smoothly aligned.  Everything seemed to work fine, and once the glue had had sufficient time to set, I started to fair the frames.  This is when a first inkling of problems started, I noticed that some of the frames were moving in their slots, and upon further investigation some the frames were not really secured solidly to the keel.  Although the planking will definitely add to the strength, I wasn't convinced the frames would be rigid enough to allow planks to be installed.   Given the construction method, its not possible to remove and re-glue a single frame, so the isopropyl alcohol was brought out to remove all the frames....
 

 
Second Attempt:
Upon analysis two things became clear.  I hadn't used enough glue in the joints, and that my judgement of what 'play' was needed for the frames in the build board was wrong (the instructions say that these shouldn't be too tight or too loose), but it was really only trying to go through the process of fairing that indicated what this should be.  Some tape was added as suggested in the instructions to more rigidly seat these, and the process to align and glue repeated (using more glue this time around).  Unfortunately, in the final stages of seating everything,  I somehow placed too much pressure on frame G and the result was that the frame foot broke in two places, and the small tabs on one side of the futtock popped prematurely (these are weak by design to allow easier removal at a later stage).  The isopropyl alcohol was brought out once more to remove all the frames........I don't have any photos of this, honestly I was too despondent to record it...
 
Third (and so far final attempt):
After examining the break, the cherry had broken with the grain and looked like it could be repaired.  These are delicate pieces, but I don't think will be subject to much stress once the planks are on.  The breaks were located on each side of the foot where there is a small dark element of grain, and can just be seen in photos below.  The small tabs on the futtock were also given a tiny spot of glue, and to hopefully provide a little more strength a splint was glued to the central section to absorb some of the shearing forces that will be unavoidable while fairing the frames (this is NOT glued to the actual futtock itself). 
 
So far, things seem to be back on track, and work has resumed on fairing the frames which is where things sit currently.