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Beef Wellington reacted to Wahka_est in HMS Cruiser by Wahka_est - Caldercraft - 1:64
Small progress-fasle deck glued. Some additional balsa pieces applied, will add more before sanding.
I do not darw to start sanding yet. Last time whole room was full of dust. Waiting nice weather to do it on balcony-Admirals idea.
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Beef Wellington reacted to MEDDO in Queen Anne Barge by MEDDO - FINISHED - Syren - scale 1:24
Nailing has been completed. Sanded down the excess and everything seems to have come out nicely. Going to paint/coverup the few breakthroughs on the inside then move onto next step.
sorry for photo quality taken by phone
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Beef Wellington got a reaction from mtaylor in The Four Days' Battle of 1666, by Frank L. Fox
Or you may want to stretch to the hardback edition, a new copy going for $989 on Amazon...
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Beef Wellington got a reaction from thibaultron in The Four Days' Battle of 1666, by Frank L. Fox
Or you may want to stretch to the hardback edition, a new copy going for $989 on Amazon...
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Beef Wellington got a reaction from Archi in Queen Anne Style Royal Barge c1700 by Beef Wellington - Syren Ship Model Company - 1:24
Keel Assembly:
Firstly I want to recognize Chuck for providing amazing customer service, I'll get into details below, but suffice to say I needed a replacement sheet sent, not because it was defective, but because I messed up. There was no charge for the replacement, great support!
The keel pieces have had some preliminary shaping done to them and been assembled, this was pretty much a weekends work (for me). The plans were used to establish the various joint angles of the bow and stern post while the glue set as there is a little play in these. This is my first time working with cherry, and so far it seems a pleasure being easy to shape with sanding sticks. Small guide holes have also been drilled as indicated on the plans for future mounting.
MEA CULPA - Despite clear warnings in the instructions, I was worried that the scarf joints as supplied were not sufficiently 'tight', primarily due to the edges not being perfectly 90deg because of the laser cutting through the wood sheet. To try and 'correct' this the various faces of the scarf joint were gently sanded until these seemed much tighter. Big mistake!!! The result was that some of the length of the joint was lost before I knew it, and as a result, the keel was too short. No option but to restart...
With the replacement parts in hand, the scarf joints received some VERY minor tweaking to fit and plenty of glue to ensure that any joint gaps would be filled. Once dry and cleaned up, the results are very satisfactory, which is all down to the precision of the pre-cut parts. Pencil was used to darken the face of the joint.
The keel requires to be tapered, narrowing by about 1/5 of the keel width at the bottom on each side, this profile also follows around the stem (but stops short of the top where the profile remains square). This has been roughly shaped at this point and will need to be fine tuned once the other structural keel pieces are glued in place to make the whole assembly stronger.
The stern post also requires some subtle shaping. Narrowing slightly at top, dictated by transom, and also narrowing at the bottom to match the rest of the keel.
Apologies, these aren't the best photos...
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Beef Wellington got a reaction from BobG in Dinghy by Voyageur - FINISHED - Midwest Products - small - first ship model build ever
Great start, looking great and very clean so far, based on how you're approaching this kit I'm sure you'll have no difficulty with something a little more complex in the future.
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Beef Wellington got a reaction from KARAVOKIRIS in Queen Anne Style Royal Barge c1700 by Beef Wellington - Syren Ship Model Company - 1:24
Keel Assembly:
Firstly I want to recognize Chuck for providing amazing customer service, I'll get into details below, but suffice to say I needed a replacement sheet sent, not because it was defective, but because I messed up. There was no charge for the replacement, great support!
The keel pieces have had some preliminary shaping done to them and been assembled, this was pretty much a weekends work (for me). The plans were used to establish the various joint angles of the bow and stern post while the glue set as there is a little play in these. This is my first time working with cherry, and so far it seems a pleasure being easy to shape with sanding sticks. Small guide holes have also been drilled as indicated on the plans for future mounting.
MEA CULPA - Despite clear warnings in the instructions, I was worried that the scarf joints as supplied were not sufficiently 'tight', primarily due to the edges not being perfectly 90deg because of the laser cutting through the wood sheet. To try and 'correct' this the various faces of the scarf joint were gently sanded until these seemed much tighter. Big mistake!!! The result was that some of the length of the joint was lost before I knew it, and as a result, the keel was too short. No option but to restart...
With the replacement parts in hand, the scarf joints received some VERY minor tweaking to fit and plenty of glue to ensure that any joint gaps would be filled. Once dry and cleaned up, the results are very satisfactory, which is all down to the precision of the pre-cut parts. Pencil was used to darken the face of the joint.
The keel requires to be tapered, narrowing by about 1/5 of the keel width at the bottom on each side, this profile also follows around the stem (but stops short of the top where the profile remains square). This has been roughly shaped at this point and will need to be fine tuned once the other structural keel pieces are glued in place to make the whole assembly stronger.
The stern post also requires some subtle shaping. Narrowing slightly at top, dictated by transom, and also narrowing at the bottom to match the rest of the keel.
Apologies, these aren't the best photos...
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Beef Wellington reacted to Vane in HMS Speedy by Vane - Vanguard Models - Scale 1:64 - Master Shipwright (limited edition)
Finally, now it start to look like a really nice ship... sorry I mean Slop-brig.
Me and my airbrush are not friends yet so it took a couple of hours to do this and i also sprayed the building stand just to make it abit more natural on my shelf when not Working on her.
What do you think?
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Beef Wellington reacted to JamesT1 in HMS Agamemnon by JamesT1 - Caldercraft - 1:64
Good afternoon all
Well after reading so many excellent logs for some fantastic models, I have decided to build my own and share the experience...
After a lot of reading research I decided to go with the Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon in 1:64 scale, please don't ask me for a reason,,, whilst reading through a lot I really liked the look of her, the more I read the more I liked,,, in addition I also liked the look of HMS Diana,, Diana will come later...
Whilst I am not a beginner when It comes to modelling, I am a beginner when it comes to wood and ships, so please shout out when you see where I may be going wrong… This log hopefully captures my experiences both with kit and what I do to resolve any issues, I create and resolve
So here goes,,
These are the photos for the checking of the main keel and the bulkheads. As I planned on cutting into the bulkheads I required them to be fairly easy to put on and take off
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Beef Wellington reacted to Ringadingdong in USS Thatcher DD-514 by Ringadingdong - Tamiya - 1/350 - PLASTIC
Maybe we should establish a support group?
"Hello, my name is Michael, and I'm unable to build kits as intended!"
Anyways, todays harvest, a little work on the funnels. Funnel caps, the whistle platform and the center tube leading up to the ship's whistle. More tubework ahead!
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Beef Wellington reacted to Wahka_est in HMS Cruiser by Wahka_est - Caldercraft - 1:64
Hi all
Got HMS Cruiser from stock clearance sale few weeks ago with really good peice (excuse for Admiral). It has been standing there for weeks now and decided to start with it.
My first build was(still ongoing) Terror by Occre. Somehow Cruiser cought my eye with natural finish apperance-i really liked it. Also its advertised as so called simple build, so would be hopefully simple and fast build. So plan is to just sand and varnish it. Maybe paint or stain cannons cause plywood edges are visible.
One other reason why i like it is that i seems big. Its little longer than Terror but a lot more wider.
About the kit.
Box is nice but inside is full of wood bust from cnc. Also the lines are still full of dust. First thing i used vacuum to clean most of it but eouting lines are now hardened and wont come out easily.
Cnc part are nicely cut, didnt notice any errors so far.
Fitting seem a lot better than Occre.
Wood is good quality except planks-some quanitu has quite “hairy” edges after cutting. With little sanding it should come off.
Instructions at first seem scary-7 sheets of drawings and few pages of text. Photo instructions make it mich easier. BUT taken into account experience with Terror and also im civil engineer then after checking i realised that drawings have much more info than photo instructions. Only problem is that they are so big-hard to keep them anywhere when you dont have workshop(like me).
One problem with instructions is that none of the fittings have markings so it takes some time to find exact one and always double check to be sure.
This build will be easier and also harder than Terror. Easier cause not so kany deck fitting but harder vause there isnt finished detail build log.
About the start.
Dryfitted bulkwarks on keel and they fit like a charm. Very little sanding needed. I also like that its 5mm plywood so it can bare little more handling.
Glued bulkwarks to place and used cnc cut deck to position eberything to right place.
With the experience from Terror i now look 3-4 step ahead and check how other parts fit also(keels etc).
Problems that other builds had havent occured yet.
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Beef Wellington got a reaction from egkb in Queen Anne Style Royal Barge c1700 by Beef Wellington - Syren Ship Model Company - 1:24
Keel Assembly:
Firstly I want to recognize Chuck for providing amazing customer service, I'll get into details below, but suffice to say I needed a replacement sheet sent, not because it was defective, but because I messed up. There was no charge for the replacement, great support!
The keel pieces have had some preliminary shaping done to them and been assembled, this was pretty much a weekends work (for me). The plans were used to establish the various joint angles of the bow and stern post while the glue set as there is a little play in these. This is my first time working with cherry, and so far it seems a pleasure being easy to shape with sanding sticks. Small guide holes have also been drilled as indicated on the plans for future mounting.
MEA CULPA - Despite clear warnings in the instructions, I was worried that the scarf joints as supplied were not sufficiently 'tight', primarily due to the edges not being perfectly 90deg because of the laser cutting through the wood sheet. To try and 'correct' this the various faces of the scarf joint were gently sanded until these seemed much tighter. Big mistake!!! The result was that some of the length of the joint was lost before I knew it, and as a result, the keel was too short. No option but to restart...
With the replacement parts in hand, the scarf joints received some VERY minor tweaking to fit and plenty of glue to ensure that any joint gaps would be filled. Once dry and cleaned up, the results are very satisfactory, which is all down to the precision of the pre-cut parts. Pencil was used to darken the face of the joint.
The keel requires to be tapered, narrowing by about 1/5 of the keel width at the bottom on each side, this profile also follows around the stem (but stops short of the top where the profile remains square). This has been roughly shaped at this point and will need to be fine tuned once the other structural keel pieces are glued in place to make the whole assembly stronger.
The stern post also requires some subtle shaping. Narrowing slightly at top, dictated by transom, and also narrowing at the bottom to match the rest of the keel.
Apologies, these aren't the best photos...
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Beef Wellington got a reaction from GrandpaPhil in Queen Anne Style Royal Barge c1700 by Beef Wellington - Syren Ship Model Company - 1:24
Keel Assembly:
Firstly I want to recognize Chuck for providing amazing customer service, I'll get into details below, but suffice to say I needed a replacement sheet sent, not because it was defective, but because I messed up. There was no charge for the replacement, great support!
The keel pieces have had some preliminary shaping done to them and been assembled, this was pretty much a weekends work (for me). The plans were used to establish the various joint angles of the bow and stern post while the glue set as there is a little play in these. This is my first time working with cherry, and so far it seems a pleasure being easy to shape with sanding sticks. Small guide holes have also been drilled as indicated on the plans for future mounting.
MEA CULPA - Despite clear warnings in the instructions, I was worried that the scarf joints as supplied were not sufficiently 'tight', primarily due to the edges not being perfectly 90deg because of the laser cutting through the wood sheet. To try and 'correct' this the various faces of the scarf joint were gently sanded until these seemed much tighter. Big mistake!!! The result was that some of the length of the joint was lost before I knew it, and as a result, the keel was too short. No option but to restart...
With the replacement parts in hand, the scarf joints received some VERY minor tweaking to fit and plenty of glue to ensure that any joint gaps would be filled. Once dry and cleaned up, the results are very satisfactory, which is all down to the precision of the pre-cut parts. Pencil was used to darken the face of the joint.
The keel requires to be tapered, narrowing by about 1/5 of the keel width at the bottom on each side, this profile also follows around the stem (but stops short of the top where the profile remains square). This has been roughly shaped at this point and will need to be fine tuned once the other structural keel pieces are glued in place to make the whole assembly stronger.
The stern post also requires some subtle shaping. Narrowing slightly at top, dictated by transom, and also narrowing at the bottom to match the rest of the keel.
Apologies, these aren't the best photos...
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Beef Wellington got a reaction from JpR62 in Queen Anne Style Royal Barge c1700 by Beef Wellington - Syren Ship Model Company - 1:24
Keel Assembly:
Firstly I want to recognize Chuck for providing amazing customer service, I'll get into details below, but suffice to say I needed a replacement sheet sent, not because it was defective, but because I messed up. There was no charge for the replacement, great support!
The keel pieces have had some preliminary shaping done to them and been assembled, this was pretty much a weekends work (for me). The plans were used to establish the various joint angles of the bow and stern post while the glue set as there is a little play in these. This is my first time working with cherry, and so far it seems a pleasure being easy to shape with sanding sticks. Small guide holes have also been drilled as indicated on the plans for future mounting.
MEA CULPA - Despite clear warnings in the instructions, I was worried that the scarf joints as supplied were not sufficiently 'tight', primarily due to the edges not being perfectly 90deg because of the laser cutting through the wood sheet. To try and 'correct' this the various faces of the scarf joint were gently sanded until these seemed much tighter. Big mistake!!! The result was that some of the length of the joint was lost before I knew it, and as a result, the keel was too short. No option but to restart...
With the replacement parts in hand, the scarf joints received some VERY minor tweaking to fit and plenty of glue to ensure that any joint gaps would be filled. Once dry and cleaned up, the results are very satisfactory, which is all down to the precision of the pre-cut parts. Pencil was used to darken the face of the joint.
The keel requires to be tapered, narrowing by about 1/5 of the keel width at the bottom on each side, this profile also follows around the stem (but stops short of the top where the profile remains square). This has been roughly shaped at this point and will need to be fine tuned once the other structural keel pieces are glued in place to make the whole assembly stronger.
The stern post also requires some subtle shaping. Narrowing slightly at top, dictated by transom, and also narrowing at the bottom to match the rest of the keel.
Apologies, these aren't the best photos...
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Beef Wellington got a reaction from MEDDO in Queen Anne Style Royal Barge c1700 by Beef Wellington - Syren Ship Model Company - 1:24
Keel Assembly:
Firstly I want to recognize Chuck for providing amazing customer service, I'll get into details below, but suffice to say I needed a replacement sheet sent, not because it was defective, but because I messed up. There was no charge for the replacement, great support!
The keel pieces have had some preliminary shaping done to them and been assembled, this was pretty much a weekends work (for me). The plans were used to establish the various joint angles of the bow and stern post while the glue set as there is a little play in these. This is my first time working with cherry, and so far it seems a pleasure being easy to shape with sanding sticks. Small guide holes have also been drilled as indicated on the plans for future mounting.
MEA CULPA - Despite clear warnings in the instructions, I was worried that the scarf joints as supplied were not sufficiently 'tight', primarily due to the edges not being perfectly 90deg because of the laser cutting through the wood sheet. To try and 'correct' this the various faces of the scarf joint were gently sanded until these seemed much tighter. Big mistake!!! The result was that some of the length of the joint was lost before I knew it, and as a result, the keel was too short. No option but to restart...
With the replacement parts in hand, the scarf joints received some VERY minor tweaking to fit and plenty of glue to ensure that any joint gaps would be filled. Once dry and cleaned up, the results are very satisfactory, which is all down to the precision of the pre-cut parts. Pencil was used to darken the face of the joint.
The keel requires to be tapered, narrowing by about 1/5 of the keel width at the bottom on each side, this profile also follows around the stem (but stops short of the top where the profile remains square). This has been roughly shaped at this point and will need to be fine tuned once the other structural keel pieces are glued in place to make the whole assembly stronger.
The stern post also requires some subtle shaping. Narrowing slightly at top, dictated by transom, and also narrowing at the bottom to match the rest of the keel.
Apologies, these aren't the best photos...
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Beef Wellington got a reaction from CaptainSteve in Queen Anne Style Royal Barge c1700 by Beef Wellington - Syren Ship Model Company - 1:24
I really have no excuse for buying, let alone starting this kit as I have plenty going on I my current builds. However, everytime I wandered over to the Syren Ship Model website to buy sundery items, this kit stared back longingly at me, and sadly up to now was 'out of stock'. Fortuitously on the last visit, there was one in stock and I just couldn't resist, after all, it couldn't hurt could it? Well, the package has arrived and despite my best efforts to leave the box closed (about 5 minutes), the genie is out of the bottle.
This will most definitely be a side project, and it will finally be nice to be able to follow some very good instructions and build a very nice looking model out of the box. Hopefully this will be a nice diversion to 'Jason' which seems to be anything but.
I hope that I'm up to this challenge, I can certainly appreciate the reasons why this is classified as a more advanced kit. Progress will be slow. I'm not planning on this being the most extensive build log, but will likely post progress pictures and ask questions as I go...
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Beef Wellington got a reaction from marktiedens in Queen Anne Style Royal Barge c1700 by Beef Wellington - Syren Ship Model Company - 1:24
Keel Assembly:
Firstly I want to recognize Chuck for providing amazing customer service, I'll get into details below, but suffice to say I needed a replacement sheet sent, not because it was defective, but because I messed up. There was no charge for the replacement, great support!
The keel pieces have had some preliminary shaping done to them and been assembled, this was pretty much a weekends work (for me). The plans were used to establish the various joint angles of the bow and stern post while the glue set as there is a little play in these. This is my first time working with cherry, and so far it seems a pleasure being easy to shape with sanding sticks. Small guide holes have also been drilled as indicated on the plans for future mounting.
MEA CULPA - Despite clear warnings in the instructions, I was worried that the scarf joints as supplied were not sufficiently 'tight', primarily due to the edges not being perfectly 90deg because of the laser cutting through the wood sheet. To try and 'correct' this the various faces of the scarf joint were gently sanded until these seemed much tighter. Big mistake!!! The result was that some of the length of the joint was lost before I knew it, and as a result, the keel was too short. No option but to restart...
With the replacement parts in hand, the scarf joints received some VERY minor tweaking to fit and plenty of glue to ensure that any joint gaps would be filled. Once dry and cleaned up, the results are very satisfactory, which is all down to the precision of the pre-cut parts. Pencil was used to darken the face of the joint.
The keel requires to be tapered, narrowing by about 1/5 of the keel width at the bottom on each side, this profile also follows around the stem (but stops short of the top where the profile remains square). This has been roughly shaped at this point and will need to be fine tuned once the other structural keel pieces are glued in place to make the whole assembly stronger.
The stern post also requires some subtle shaping. Narrowing slightly at top, dictated by transom, and also narrowing at the bottom to match the rest of the keel.
Apologies, these aren't the best photos...
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Beef Wellington got a reaction from BobG in Queen Anne Style Royal Barge c1700 by Beef Wellington - Syren Ship Model Company - 1:24
Keel Assembly:
Firstly I want to recognize Chuck for providing amazing customer service, I'll get into details below, but suffice to say I needed a replacement sheet sent, not because it was defective, but because I messed up. There was no charge for the replacement, great support!
The keel pieces have had some preliminary shaping done to them and been assembled, this was pretty much a weekends work (for me). The plans were used to establish the various joint angles of the bow and stern post while the glue set as there is a little play in these. This is my first time working with cherry, and so far it seems a pleasure being easy to shape with sanding sticks. Small guide holes have also been drilled as indicated on the plans for future mounting.
MEA CULPA - Despite clear warnings in the instructions, I was worried that the scarf joints as supplied were not sufficiently 'tight', primarily due to the edges not being perfectly 90deg because of the laser cutting through the wood sheet. To try and 'correct' this the various faces of the scarf joint were gently sanded until these seemed much tighter. Big mistake!!! The result was that some of the length of the joint was lost before I knew it, and as a result, the keel was too short. No option but to restart...
With the replacement parts in hand, the scarf joints received some VERY minor tweaking to fit and plenty of glue to ensure that any joint gaps would be filled. Once dry and cleaned up, the results are very satisfactory, which is all down to the precision of the pre-cut parts. Pencil was used to darken the face of the joint.
The keel requires to be tapered, narrowing by about 1/5 of the keel width at the bottom on each side, this profile also follows around the stem (but stops short of the top where the profile remains square). This has been roughly shaped at this point and will need to be fine tuned once the other structural keel pieces are glued in place to make the whole assembly stronger.
The stern post also requires some subtle shaping. Narrowing slightly at top, dictated by transom, and also narrowing at the bottom to match the rest of the keel.
Apologies, these aren't the best photos...
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Beef Wellington got a reaction from coxswain in HMS Speedy by Vane - Vanguard Models - Scale 1:64 - Master Shipwright (limited edition)
Looking good, those close up shots show off your really fine planking Vane, well done. You seem to have got some really sharp square corners which makes all the difference.
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Beef Wellington reacted to Vane in HMS Speedy by Vane - Vanguard Models - Scale 1:64 - Master Shipwright (limited edition)
Alot of fitting, filing and sanding... innerwalls, and gunports finally done! This will never be perfect, just need to work untill u think its good enough for your build. Next step is to do some black airbrushing and then I plan to start with the copper.
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Beef Wellington got a reaction from Blue Ensign in HM Cutter Alert by Blue Ensign - FINISHED - Vanguard Models - 1:64 scale
Good choice BE, there was a less standardization of the flag of St Andrew, with colour even varying significantly today. Going with your selection will give a more period feel right off the bat. Interested to see how you tackle this.
The proportion of the size of the Jack is interesting and seems odd. Given this would only be flown in harbor/at anchor, it seems way oversized compared to the Harbour Ensign. I'm assuming both would have been flown from a staff (?)
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Beef Wellington got a reaction from Moab in HM Cutter Alert by Blue Ensign - FINISHED - Vanguard Models - 1:64 scale
Good choice BE, there was a less standardization of the flag of St Andrew, with colour even varying significantly today. Going with your selection will give a more period feel right off the bat. Interested to see how you tackle this.
The proportion of the size of the Jack is interesting and seems odd. Given this would only be flown in harbor/at anchor, it seems way oversized compared to the Harbour Ensign. I'm assuming both would have been flown from a staff (?)
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Beef Wellington reacted to Blue Ensign in HM Cutter Alert by Blue Ensign - FINISHED - Vanguard Models - 1:64 scale
Post 81
A question of Ensigns
I like to add an Ensign to a model it adds a splash of colour and making flags and getting them to hang realistically is an interesting exercise.
One thing that has puzzled me in relation to the Hawke model is the Union flag at its peak.
We know that the rigging of Hawke is original, but a question mark hangs over identification of the model.
There is no Naval cutter named Hawke listed, and perhaps the absence of a Naval Ensign is another indicator.
The NMM has described it as a Revenue cutter.
Revenue cutters did have their own ensign dating from 1694 – a Red Ensign defaced with a ‘castellated gateway’ badge. (1707-1784)
Alert, however, was certainly a Naval Cutter and an ensign is appropriate.
Alert was attached to the Squadron commanded by Admiral Augustus Keppel, Admiral of the White, so a White Ensign it is.
Unusual in modelling, Roger Cole in his build of Alert goes into some detail about flag sizes.
Alert would have carried a complement of five different size ensigns or flags ranging from her number one, down through number four, plus a Jack.
In size, the fly of the number one was generally about equivalent to the molded beam of the vessel, the hoist was 5/9ths of the fly at this time.
The other ensigns were proportional and stepped down where the hoist of one became the length of the fly on the next smaller ensign.
The Jack was equal to the canton of the largest ensign.
https://www.craftsmanshipmuseum.com/Cole.htm
Given that the beam of Alert was 25’10” (The fly) the hoist would be 14’ 4” quite a large flag for a cutter.
At scale this would be 123mm (fly) 68.26mm (hoist)
Using these proportions, I scaled out the ensigns;
The Number one or Battle Ensign does look huge in relation to the model, but the Number two looks a tad small for the model display purposes.
No 1 - Battle Ensign
No 2 Ensign – General Service
No 3 – Storm Ensign
No 4 – Harbour Ensign.
Jack
Many contemporary paintings show the Union flag with a narrower diagonal white cross representing the Scottish saltire. The ground of the flag is also shown as a much darker blue.
I have adopted this design which I prefer to the broader white cross and brighter blue ground of many of the commercially available Ensigns.
The trick now is to reproduce this as a viable Ensign which will be the subject of my next post.
B.E.
20/03/2020
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Beef Wellington reacted to MEDDO in Queen Anne Barge by MEDDO - FINISHED - Syren - scale 1:24
Floors in. Had to keep sanding down the frames until it fit at the appropriate level. Fitting the very fore floor was the most difficult part but went smoothly.
Going to WOP the floors and let dry overnight.
Deo Volente
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Beef Wellington got a reaction from toms10 in HMS Snake by Beef Wellington - FINISHED - Caldercraft - Scale 1: 64 - First wooden ship build
Greetings all,
Really is time I got back to finish Snake, time just flies, and incredible that my last update was July 2015! . Firstly, she's been staring at me from across the room and I can't avert my eyes any longer from embarrassment with her so neglected. Secondly, I feel I really need to finish her to be able to hold my head up on this forum by having actually completed something, and thirdly, there are some things I need to contemplate on 'Jason' and skills to hone before I move forward.
I'll be honest, it was a little bit of a challenge getting going again, there are many things about her that I'm not too happy with, but recognize that this is still a first build using kit supplied parts so just need to be happy with it. One trick I've found to reduce 'fuzzies' is simply to use a brush to stroke warm water onto the line. I've tried bees wax, but from my experience it just seemed to result in dandruff!
So what exactly has been done:
Rigging on the foremast has completed for now to include the sheets and clew-line Main mast yards are installed and similarly completed (some lines that belay outside of the line of the main shroud are being left for now to give more room to access the mizzen mast area) Much rework has been done in the completion of the above tasks, which certainly slowed progress, including: Re-rigging many of the horses in situ, trying to give them a little more 'slack' Definitely a case of 2 steps forward and 1 step back picking this back up. The dexterity needed to navigate around the increasingly catch prone pointy bits eluded me, and for every yard rigged it seemed I had to re-strop a block that slipped loose as a result of unwanted contact with a spar or line. Thankfully nothing wooden has broken. Putting a positive spin on this, it definitely required honing of skills - the most aggravating and challenging fix was probably the violin block for the fore mainyard lift (photo below). This was re-stropped in situ and required keeping the existing lines suitably taught and navigating around the existing rigging- despite some rather salty language, this was honestly a bit of a boost after recognizing that if that was possible, pretty much anything can be fixed. (Seizing black thread around black line against the black woodwork proved too much for the eye...)
Finally where things stand. I'm standing by the decision to rig starting with forward masts and moving aft, going from lower to upper. Suspect next up will be the spanker and gaff before installing the cross-jack.