Beef Wellington

Whales added...

And here is the result of the Stern.

Yes, Eberhard, these parts are made using electroforming.
 
The wax mold is coated with a conductive layer of graphite and lowered into a galvanic bath. I already told the details in my topic above.

Ventilation pipes .

That's looking really good Jesse, love the look of your model and flags are definitely in keeping.

That's looking really good Jesse, love the look of your model and flags are definitely in keeping.

Rosters , ammunition rail and bridge for the transition are soldered together.

If I may chip in - I think there are three main limiting factors to working with small parts:
 
Patience - this is up to you; I believe that in many cases when people claim that they cannot do this or that, what they really say is that they do not have the patience to do it (ok, eyesight and manual dexterity also play a role)
 
Materials availability - sheet metal/foil is commercially available down to about 0.02 mm thickness, wires down to 0.01 mm, fibres for ropes down to about the same thickness; this puts physical limitis on the size of parts.
 
Workability - the mechanical strength of a part decreases not linearly, but at the same rate as the volume; you cannot turn a copper wire of 0.1 mm diameter in the lathe; the precision of your tools also puts limits on the size of parts (remember that industry produces twist drills down to 0.1 mm diameter ... but their machines may be a thousand times more expensive than ours); 'touchless' machining techniques, such as etching, laser-cutting, galvano-plastic, or EDM offer(ed) there new possibilities.
 
Working at a larger scale for me doesn't make it necessarily easier, as it means that you just can pack more details into the model - the absolute size of the parts to be worked on stays the same. Again, the level of detail is limited by the materials that are available and how it can be worked. For instance, at 1:350 I probably wouldn't represent door hinges, up to 1:96 scale I would represent it by length of wires, up to 1:48 I may shape the wire on the lathe and above, I may reproduce it in full. Or, at 1:350 I would not represent the rivets on rivetted parts, up to 1:96 I would represent them by surface etching and above, I may to go for individual rivets.
 
We had the scale discussion somewhere else a while ago: I think the problem is that a typical  (ship)model is viewed from different distances, unlike the situation, where a diorama (in the real meaning of the term) forces the viewer to preset viewing distance and angle (as for a theater stage). This means, that when you put your nose close to it, you expect to see all the little details, that you wouldn't be able to see say from a couple of metres away.
 
So, for me the question is not the scale of the model, but rather what is the smallest part I have the physical ability and patience to reproduce ...

Finally got to work on rigging the Jack to the Jackstaff. Got it on. Not positive on just how this is supposed to be tied off but here's what I got. Haven't settled on which direction I'll have it waving, will get the Ensign on and then figure it out.
 
Jesse
 

The oars are almost complete


I just need to add the thin tape around the tip of the blade.
 
The Flags have also been added. I think the flag at the bow need more folds...


I just have to finish the carvings...

In parallel, I worked on the oars. The problem was to find a solution to repeat the regular shaping of the blades.
I built a little jig for this.

Just turn the blade halfway in order to have a regular angle on both sides.


Then the blades are slightly bent

All the four pieces are finally glued together

The ten sweeps are ready for the painting phase...
 

The Queen Anne cypher was separated from his backing piece (one night in the alcohol bath)  and glued.
I worked on the rudder. I followed the instructions strictly. Ah ! this manual ! What a pleasure !

I also added micro bolts of 0.4 mm.

The tiller was simply carved from a 1/16" x 1/16" cherry strip using a sharp #11 xacto blade.

After painting, the two pieces was glued.



Time to work on the two flags... and continuing to carve...

Thanks to all the 'Likes'.
The resin castings are in place.





I will start now to carve the Queen Anne cypher.

Post 80
 
The Anchors
 
I had an initial look at the anchors back in Post 47, at that time it was clear to me that while the anchors were ok the kit provided stocks did not pass muster.

3987(2)

4783
Boxwood replacements were made, using the Alert book drawings.
 
 
The white metal anchors are nicely formed, the only modification I did was to drill thro’ the shaft for the ring.
I did need to tweak the anchor shaft a little so that the stock sat square to the arms. Holding the square in a vice and a gentle turn on the arms brought everything into line.
 
 
According to Steel the Anchor ring would scale to an 8mm outside diameter, with a 0.9mm thickness of ring.
 
I thought the provided kit item a little on the small side and by virtue of its pe origins lacked a round profile. I replaced it using 1mm ø brass wire.
 

4774
I chemically blackened the white metal anchors using Carr’s Black for Brass; this doesn’t always work, but in this instance it did.
 

4769(2)
I used Morope 0.4mm line for the ring puddening, and 0.1mm line for the four seizings.
 

4786(2)
To represent the iron bands, I took my usual approach of using slices of heat shrink tubing.
 

4788(2)
Saves all that fiddling with Brass strip and silver solder.
 
 
Fitting the Anchors

4792
Clinching the cable to the ring, a tricky business at the best of times.
 
 
Starboard Sheet Anchor.
 

04794
Awkward things to position without fouling other items.

04797(2)

04798
The anchor is secured by the Cat stopper and Shank painter.
 
 
Port anchor
 

04801
These anchors do look large for the model, but they are scaled to size.
 

04804
For display purposes I decided to leave the port Bower hanging from the Cat block.
 
I am undecided whether to complete the Stream and Kedge Anchors, but I can defer that decision until later.
 
I can now carry one and finish dressing the anchor cable.
 
 
B.E.
14/03/2020
 
 
 

I finally finished the forward section and also added the davits to the stern. I had to do some modifying of the rails to get the davits to fit snugly on top of the rails and therefore ruined my perfect paint job. The davits are kit supplied parts. The next thing I planned on doing are the stanchions and netting on top of the rails. I can see that there is netting there on the plans and box pictures but no netting in the kit? hmmmmm? So what do I do about that? I might have to do something else while I think about that.
 
The forward section. Knees and rails in place with the fairleads on top of the rails.
 

 
First side in.

 
Both sides in.
 

The final product.
 

Alright gentlemens, enough discussion and speculation on board directions inside this buildlog.  Interesting topic if someone want to create a thread on it seperately. But too much discussion here simply ruins for those who want to follow the build. Thanks 4 understanding. 

Yes i agree. I dont want to build my ships totally wrong but i mostly just want nice looking models to display in my home. Some variation between each one is just good in my opinion. And frankly, who will notice a thing like that besides like some of the People in this forum.

You've managed to get a really nice sag in the ratlines there Bob, something to aspire to!

The ratlines for the lower mast shrouds are finally complete.  Those for the upper masts are underway.  It's very tedious.  I'm looking at any excuse not to do them - even to attacking the bougainvillias which unfortunately fight back. I have the scars. Here are the ratlines for the port lower mizzen.  Both sides came out quite well.
 

 

Yes i saw the previous discussion on this but decided to follow the manual. 

That looks great!!!!   I have everyone home also.....I hope we dont kill each other.  I will just hide in my shop until its over.  
 
Chuck

Was able to get the caprail on.  Instructions were very good especially the reminders to check the smoothness of the tops of the frames.  Took a few revisions until it matched nicely.  Just started to sand the outside flush and then the big job of sanding down the inner caprail and frames.
 
In other news the Governor just cancelled all schools in the state for 3 weeks starting Monday.  Luckily the Admiral is a teacher so we don't have to scramble for childcare like so many others.  Talk about a freekin panic.  She just came home from the grocery and says it was an absolute madhouse
 

This is how it looks after sanding.  Boxwood is definitely the best mtrl to work with. Now on to trimming gunports and adding the whales. 

A few photos of relics from HMS 'Sirius' which was wrecked at Norfolk island on 19th March, 1790.  These were taken on our recent trip to the island.
 
First, the site of the wreck.  The remains of Sirius lie scattered on the reef in the breakers directly in line with the mountain peak on the island.

In case you didn't think that Sirius was coppered, these are the remains of some of her copper plating.

 
Of general interest, two bronze pump chambers.

A badly twisted horseshoe plate from the bow.

Pintles and gudgeons and the spectacle plate

A carronade showing distress from being pounded n the reef for two centuries. I must say I was surprised by the shortness of this weapon - much shorter than later ones.

A tampion which was found still secure in the carronade barrel.  The gunner's mate certainly knew his work!

Lastly, and of interest to all builders of late 18th century models, a shackle and chain link.