Beef Wellington

As a kid I always remembered staring up at this kit with longing eyes, it was always sitting out of reach - physically on the top shelf, and financially in its huge box!  Never seen the PE before, so definitely want to follow your progress Kevin, this is the first PE I've seen that needs to be soldered.  You're doing a great job.

Good evening everyone
 
over the last couple of days i have been learning to solder, and even I have seen some improvement 
 
the hull will stay as it is for a while, whilst i basically built a ship out of PE 
 
so at present i am concentration on the Bridge area, for several reason
it is one of the smaller kit from GLS, so if i was to completly mess it up it wont cost as much as the the main set set to replace, also has a wide variety of different projects to build so that i can get used to not burning my fingers so much and learn new techniques 
lol it also uses some of the original kit as well
 
Bridge area
PE set

from the kit

replacement walkway

first real successful soldering


flag locker 20 pieces no glue,  has been cleaned up a lot since the photo

nearly all the metal work has reverse rivets the need to be pushed through with a centre punch 


 
 
 
 

good evening everyone
 
made some progress over the last couple of days, not pretty though, lots to learn, and enjoyable but shameful to show everyone, but im happy to share the rubbish, as i like to think i will get better
 
this is the bridge area 

good evening not my photo and i dont know where it came from

That is some seriously good first planking, well done!

Because the parts are too small and the rate of good products is not high, today we can finally solve the problem of this part.

Hi Vane - Looking good.  The trick with the wale it seems is to have it parallel to the sheer of the top of the bulwarks and all of the various rails.  Once you see it it seems so obvious but is very apparent from looking at original plans, but I completely missed it on my Snake build.  Given that you have these preformed, it should be possible to use that as a guide.

Those are just stunning Thomas, well done, such precise work at a small scale.

That is some seriously good first planking, well done!

Post 11
Planking above the wale
Above the wale I  have used Boxwood strip forming three strakes down to the wale top. At the aft end the planks are shaped to meet the lower side counter pieces.

1598(2)
I won't completely finish these Top sides off until I have cut the half ports along the bulwark.

1606
I then moved onto planking the internal bulwarks. For the Spirketing I used kit Pear wood strips,(1x3mm and 1x4mm)
Above this I used a Boxwood strip sanded back to the top line.

1607
The second layer of the Wales were then attached using 6x1mm Boxwood strip.
A rabbet is cut into the bow stem to take the forward end which is slightly reduced in thickness.
The plank requires a little heat bending to take the stress out of it and before fitting the three Hook and and Butt scarph joints are  represented by scribing into the surface.
I have followed the arrangement from the Goodwin Alert book.
Using Caldercraft metal black paint I applied a thinned coat to seal the wales, but these will need to be finished much further down the road.
As suspected the scarf joints are barely visible, and probably not worth the effort.

1604

1605
 I added the waterways along the deck, cut from some Boxwood sheet.

1609
Starting to look a little better now, my next  job will be to cut the half ports along the bulwark, before planking the deck.
 
B.E.
08/08/2019

This week has been a great exercise in patience for me, both in terms of my knee's recovery and in terms of the next section of planking! Fortunately I at least have something to show for the latter ;P. I'm learning to accept that planking often requires a "two steps forward, one step back" approach in order to achieve the best fit, particularly as a beginner. I've found that my initial measurements were definitely "more guidelines that actual rules" and need constant readjusting. I'm learning to be more flexible and recognize problems earlier so that they can be fixed before they escalate.
 
The next ten planks took me days of solid work to get right but I'm loving the resulting hull curvature that is starting to take shape!


Any advice on easy DIY ways to hold the stern planks in place while they dry, apart from physically holding them while watching TV or something ;P? My peg method lasted a sum total of 5 planks!

The pre bending tool makes it a bit easier... but I hope i got this right. It feels that everything else will be relying on getting this in exact position!

Those are just stunning Thomas, well done, such precise work at a small scale.

Feedback for Eberhard and John,
 
this is the result for the bilge access lifting plates, (as already mentioned it is a compromise though, providing 8 hatches )
The black lines are preserved by a layer of Humbrol Enamel clear varnisch. I will varnish the complete floor area, when the first layer over the lines is cured out....
 
Nils

 
 

status of build :
fastening a steel strop to the centerboard, a structure board for passing main mast through and stiffening out centerboard. Aft section floor with outcut for motor well.
The main mast is a dummy in lack of 8 x 8 mm square bar for checking the alignment of the mast sockets
 
Nils

These two pics are out of my own book "Zeesboote" by Hermann Winkler, it shows the hard work even at night (note the petroleum lamp), to check out what the catch has brought
 

the Zeese-netting will be dumped into the buckets below
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

I found that the steel galvanised strop is nor flexible enough for the centerboard pulley tackle, will change to adequate rope zise
 

 
 

the prop shaft will be shortened to allow length of motor and coupling
 

the motor will look somehow like this sample, one cylinder glow head for gas oil fuel, water cooling, complete with gearbox
 
 

many thanks Michel and Geert,
and also thanks to all the "likes"..
 
Michel,
I`m not sure what size the ballast-rocks have, but I`m sure that smaller pebbles would stray around in the under floor sections in rough waters. I would appreciate any pics for examle, if anyone has...
 
Geert,
yes, the  water filled boxes contained live fish, I just made some ventilation airholes into each lid to provide sufficient oxygen...
 
Nils

I spent some time building a jolly boat prototype for the Syren. I wanted to find out what it would look like to hang a jolly boat from her rear davits, and also to experiment with a few techniques needed for some of the boat details (also applicable to the long boat construction). To build the jolly boat I bought the Master Korabel kit. This is a kit for a highly detailed jolly boat, which additionally is very similar to the jolly boat plans shown in the ‘Anatomy of the Ship – Frigate Diana’ book. However, the scale of the kit is 1:72 and therefore not directly usable. As the kit does not come with a useful plan I put the 3 sheets of laser cut pear- and ply-wood on a copy machine, increased the copy by a factor 1.25x to get to the correct boat dimensions and then built the boat according to this ‘plan’. The different boat building stages are shown in images 1 – 7. Images 8 and 9 present the finished result. Image 10 shows a direct comparison between the jolly boat built from the kit at scale 1:72 based on the kit provided laser cut parts and the scratch built ‘enlarged version’ potentially suitable as Syren jolly boat.
 
Thomas
 

Image 1
 

Image 2
 
 

Image 3
 

Image 4
 

Image 5
 

Image 6
 

Image 7
 

Image 8
 

Image 9
 

Image 10
 
 

The whales have been marked out. This kit design differs from others i have done where u start with doing the complete whales by adding 3 strips of 1x4mm walnut in 2 layers.  After that you start with the 2nd planking.

Wow, you really have your work cut out for you with your Caldercraft selection.  As you point out, this is probably one of the older 'modern' kits out there so there are plenty of opportunities to improve one the kit out of the box as you see fit.  The Artois class really are one of the best looking ship types available in a model (IMHO!).  Look forward to seeing you start, there is quite the 'Diana' club right now on MSW so plenty of other builds to get pointers from.
 
Cheers

Post 10
Reworking the Transom:-
I have already departed from the kit arrangement by incorporating lower side counter timbers.

1453
My next step is to glue the stern transom pattern (49) this also is planked with thin box strip. I think the stern pattern will stand a slight beefing up and the Box wood cladding will do the job.

1462
Initial trial fitting of the transom  showed that there was no margin along the bottom of the gun ports inboard, to allow for the deck planking, which would otherwise rise above the framing.
The one clear photo in the build guide shows such a margin, but that is without the 1mm planking applied to the platform deck above the counter.
I had to tweak the transom piece by adding a strip along the bottom to raise it slightly above the deck level.
Once this is done it is clearer to see how the upper side timber (75) which incorporates the boom crutch, can be accommodated.

1463
With the Transom piece fitted, I now have a solid edge to work the Upper side timbers.
I think the inboard framing detail of the kit Transom configuration is a little sparse, having only the four vertical counter timbers, which are either side of the stern ports.

1460
Using Boxwood strip I added the transom beam which runs across the top of the gun ports, and a Tafferal capping strip.

1464

1459
Fixing Capping rails to the transom involves an eclectic mix of  clamping items.
 
These small additions, replicate more accurately the stern framing of the cutter, and imho greatly improve the look of the model, or will once I've fettled it.

1476
The modifications require making new side pieces including the crutch. The original piece is shown in the centre.

1481
These are attached to the transom  and will be fine tuned  on the model.

1482
A second layer lower Side piece is glued to the hull. These are quite intricate pieces that butt up to the upright and curve and twist down to meet the wale aft edge.

1486
Still very much wip but  it is progressing as I hoped, and with the structure now there I can decide on the paint scheme and add the second layer wale timbers.
 
B.E.
05/08/2019
 
 

I continue to build - conning tower  and navigation bridge.

Some more Iron works. 
1. Rolling chock (with testing tack) 

2. Fastening of the stern-post to the keel

3. Horse (it will be blackend later) 

Also started work in the channels, mizzen below, air gaps at the back 

 

I have finished water ways. Before I move on with other fittings I put inside of the hull under first layer of oil. 

Hello, everyone, we haven't updated the development progress for a long time. When we produce metal parts, we find that one part has been unable to meet our requirements. This problem will be solved in the next few days. We tested a blackening agent for zinc alloy. Here we share it with you. It consists of three parts, 1. Surface activation (I personally think low concentration hydrochloric acid) 2. Blackening agent (I don't know what ingredients) 3. Surface isolator (similar to varnish), because the liquid can't be mailed, I think you can buy similar products locally. The development is expected to be completed in the next week. Thank you again for your attention.