Beef Wellington

Second planking started. I first used the darkest and poorest quality planks for the wale position as these will be covered.

For the planking above the wales I first sorted any planks that were uniform in colour through out their length. I then chose from these the lightest for this section. When I reached the line of gun ports I followed kit instructions which was to use small sections between the gun ports. I was concerned about doing this and my thoughts were confirmed. The small sections tended to go on as small straight sections which lost the shape of the hull. Continued on both sides as whole lengths.


I now have a huge concern. These planks were so easy to shape that I never soaked and pre-shaped them. My concern is that the stresses imposed will make the planks spring out once the bulkhead tabs are removed. I am now considering soaking them in situ and then letting them dry before removing the tabs. Would appreciate your thoughts.

The three main superstructures are done, there is a fold out flybridge to go yet but I need to do stuff to the deck which will place them at risk

Construction progress. The model is almost finished. It is necessary to make four boats, a little work with rigging and hang the remaining boats.

I start to put the boat and finish the little things.

still added chests for dishes.

Menacing Superb quality  she just looks so real  - truly inspirational.
 
OC.

Thanx Gary and OC, I will come back to this!
 
Smoothed up every thing and did the port frames.
 

 

 
XXXDAn

Happy New year to everyone!  First off my apologies for not being on the site as much as usual and checking in on everyone's progress, something I hope to rectify soon. 
 
My progress has been limited, some small steps have been taken, and problems encountered that stopped me in my tracks for a while.
 
Channel Brackets:
The kit supplies PE channel support brackets, unfortunately I found this unworkable as is as the profile impinged on the decorative molding, they're also a little wider than indicated on the plan.  The PE parts are scored pretty heavily at the bending points so trying to tweak these was not really an option.  The problem also identified by others is that there are not enough provided in the kit (per the AOTS there are 3 shown on the mizzen, 6 for main and 4 for the fore channel) and only 11 provided, so the kit is 2 short.  Further analysis suggests its likely 3 short as there are 2 brackets used between ports, and it appears that one is simply hidden behind the stock of the anchor on page 69.  I'm going to reflect 5 brackets on the fore channel.  Another slight complication is that the mizzen brackets need to be smaller to account for the lower position of the channel in the open rail configuration I'm following.  Basically I needed to make my own, and without any really good photos to follow went with my gut.
 

 
Not having any other suitable materials handy, my eye turned to one of the spare sets of PE from other CC kits I had purchased a while back.  Not sure which kit, but a little filing and cutting to length allowed the chains to be workable.  These also appear to be almost exactly the same narrower width as shown in the AOTS profiles.  The center portion of the Diana PE part was re-purposed to attach to the channel.  Exactly the same approach was taken for the mizzen, except that the top of the Diana PE part was used and different dimensions for the bracket supporter.  This was all rather fiddly and took rather longer than I'd care to admit... 🙂
 

 

 
Cannons....finally:
Once the channel supporters were in place I could then proceed with installation of the cannons.  These are now glued in place (using CA), I didn't pin these in place as this would have been a little problematic at this stage, and they seem quite secure as is.  Breeching ropes were attached off the ship prior to installation.  Another self imposed delay was decision to go with 'light brown' Syren line rather than the 'tan' used previously - this seems to have a tone that blends better with the colour palette.  The Syren line is very nice to work with and the usual trick of using dilute PVA was used to fine tune the final profile.  For these more obscured cannons, I used a simple eyebolt to secure the breach rope, for the more visible ones in the waist, I want to explore using ringbolt as per practice, but even using a simple eyebolt gives a satisfactory result to my eye at this scale.
 

 
And finally, the exterior shot...in retrospect I'm happy with the decision to install the channels and brackets first as I'm pretty sure there would have been collateral damage to cannons during installation.  5 down, 23 to go.

Three weeks worth of clamping seems to have solved the bending problem.  This is progress.  There is some touching-up to do and with luck the other side will be finished in the next day or so.  The whole thing has proven to be very difficult indeed, though most of the difficulties have been self-inflicted.
 

 

 

 
While way we had some interesting weather. We have had a property overlooking the ocean for more than 30 years, and while away, experienced some of the strangest weather we have seen: thick ocean fogs, storms, and quite amazingly, a roll cloud.  I had never heard of such a thing.  It was about 300 metres from the sea surface, about 500 metres high, stretched from a headland to the horizon and was shaped like ...well, a perfect roll. Unfortunately I hadn't brought my camera, but photos may be found on the web.  Evidently they are very rare.  As it moved north towards us, without warning we were hit by a single huge gust of wind which blew lunch (and almost us) off the table.  It was quite extraordinary.

Alan: I have found a shop in Sydney that sells Mr Hobby paints.  They did not have the colour I wanted of course, but progress, nevertheless.
 
A combination of the Tamiya paint and the capping rails has proven difficult.  I think the paint problem is finally solved, but the rails etc continue to be a problem.  The highly curved part around the bow is VERY reluctant to remain bent to shape.  It's self-inflicted unfortunately - the molding that I have used is happy enough to bend - but only so far.  I had glued it, then left it clamped for 24 hours, but after an hour or two it came adrift near the stem.  I have re-glued it and will now leave it clamped.  I will be spending two or three weeks down the coast south of Sydney from next Sunday, so I hope that be the time I return, the molding will have behaved.
 
This is how things look at the moment.  The first photo gives an idea of how the capping around the fore deck will look.  The connecting molding between the fore and main capping needs a little touching up and will need its length to be adjusted, but it has turned out well.
 

The main capping needs another coat of paint and a coat of polyurethane, but I'm pleased with the result so far.

 
 

 Below are the curved moldings clamped round the bow.  Provided they behave after nearly three weeks worth of clamping, the whole thing should turn out well.  Of course the captain of the Titanic probably said something similar on leaving Southampton.
 
Oh, and Happy Christmas etc to all those who have been kind enough to comment, 'like', 'react' ........ since I began all of this.
 

 
 
 
 

I am now working on the capping rails.  Fitting the main rails is quite a demanding little project.  They have to be level and accurately follow the curvature of the inner bulwark.  The rails are plywood, already shaped, and there is very little 'give' in attempting to bend them to the actual curve of the bulwark.  Fortunately the bulwarks are fairly accurate and not much adjustment is required - just a slight bend of both near the stern.  I will be away for a few days and I will leave them bent to shape, dry-fitted, and hope that at least part of the bend will remain when I return.
 
This is how things look.
 
The eyelets shown here are pushing the rail inwards towards the edge of the bulwark.  I use balsa to cushion the clamps.

I have stolen another of Joe's ideas in using the paper clips as clamps.



 

I am in the process of planking the quarter deck.  It concerned me that the front edge of the plywood sub decking would show.  This was my original solution: gluing a piece of 2x2mm timber to the edge once the decking was complete.  The timber would need to follow the curvature of the deck and would best bent before gluing. The following worked well.  Simply soak the timber, then clamp it to the ply from which the bulkhead was cut and leave it to dry.
 
I include it here as it may help those who may not be able to take advantage of a far easier solution I discovered while looking through a box of odds and ends - some L section timber.
 

Here is the result.  The L section covers the edge, and fits nicely onto the deck.  It, and the planking had not yet been coated with polyurethane.
 

 
.... now with a coat of poly.  Once dry, the treenailing will be done, and then another coat of poly applied.
 

Here is another problem to be avoided. The belfry is supposed to fit flush against the rear edge of the foredeck.  If you install the bell too low - as I did - it will foul the edge as I discovered.  Having tried unsuccessfully to reposition the bell, I eventually glued some 1mm thick strip to the bottom of the supports which raised it just enough to clear the deck.
 
Here are the belfry and windlass roughly positioned.  The 'modification' cannot be seen.
 

 

 
 
 
 

Thanks Druxey for info.  Knowing these are simple poles simplifies things and gives some latitude for "eyeballing".  I've noticed in the pictures I've seen that the poles seem to mimic the order of height of the masts.  Makes sense for the Royal Standard to be highest in the mainmast position, signifying its status.  Interesting the Admiralty flag is at the fore, and the national Union flag at the mizzen, possibly suggesting (in the Admiralty's eyes) its higher status 🙂  

I'm hoping someone would have some information on the masts/poles used to hoist the flags used during the launching of late 18th century Royal Navy ships (Admiralty, Royal Standard, Union) .  I have seen many paintings (and a few photos of models) of these, but none clear enough to show any sort of detail.  I'm considering finishing a model with these featured, so would appreciate insight to allow these to be constructed - any input would be appreciated.  I'm not as concerned with the Jack and Ensign staffs which I think are clear enough and would likely be no different than when in seagoing state.
 
Were these some sort of existing preformed mast (e.g. topgallant) repurposed, or were these just simpler flag poles round in profile for entire length? Dimensions? How would these have been secured?  - assuming some sort of temporary blocking in the partners as the dimensions are significantly smaller than the actual mast  
Many thanks in advance

Thanks for kind words everyone, welcome back Nigel, and welcome Ian and channel.
 
Mini update on a few things, think pictures are most useful.  I saw reference to a 3D printing service somewhere else on this site (Shapeways.com) and specifically one of the 'shops' on that site Model Monkey, so wanted to give it a try.  They offer a few items in 1:64 directly taken from the AOTS Diana book and offered to 3D print.  You could browse for hours through all the items offered, but here is the most helpful link for 1:64 scale offerings, these can also be made in a variety of scales. (https://www.shapeways.com/shops/model_monkey?section=1%2F64+Scale&s=0)
 
Intrigued I ordered a few items, stove and upper and lower capstans.  Out of the packet, these are translucent and it recommended to soak these, brush gently with soapy water to remove oil residue and then expose to sunlight to chemically harden - I did 2 days.  I ordered the 'Frosted Extreme Detail' which is slightly more expensive but apparently a more true print.  With an initial coat of Tamiya arcrylic grey primer the surface texture is easier to see, and the layered structure is quite visible.  I set to work on the stove and sprayed again with a matt black undercoat before finishing with the Tamiya Dark Iron.  After a number of coats, the surface texture is less apparent and really only then in lighting scenarios from above that are unlikely in the finished model.  I was reluctant to try any sort of 'sanding' as the material seems quite soft.  
 

 
With a little bit of extra work on the stove base (evergreen sheet) I think the result compares favourably to the kit supplied parts.  Overall, the proportions look more accurate (as one would expect), and the front and rear of the stove much better represent the prototype features.  I could easily see that someone could to get a better finish and detail some more but I'm leaving as is, at least for now considering what will be visible in the finished model.  The other benefit is that this barely weighs anything, the white metal stove parts provided are really quite heavy and would need to be well secured.
 
Considering the finish, I'm leaning toward using the printed lower capstan as this will only be partially visible, and provides a reasonably detailed proxy with minimal work.   This will save some time to focus on other much more visible aspects of the build and I'm Ok with 'cheating' on this item.  The upper capstan I'm less sure about, and will likely construct my own as I don't think the finish is up to close scrutiny.
 
The bottom picture highlights this for direct comparison.  The matte black undercoat on the lower capstan shoes direct comparison the "dark iron" and the way that this colour compliments nicely in my view chemically blackened metal (barrel appears overly shiny!).
 


 
Luckily I did not need to rebuild the aft bitts as the stove fit perfectly - lucky that I'd used the estimated AOTS dimensions when these were built.
 

 
In other news...work on the cannons continues slowly: these are all near the point for further detailing and hardware as structural elements are complete.  Each has been allocated its specific location and in some case the bottom of the trucks reduce slightly to ensure good seating on the deck.  Quoins were individually placed to help ensure all barrels form a smooth line when viewed from the exterior.
 

 

Right then  - four assembled and fitted.
 
OC.

Once I got her ready for the first planking I put her aside. I new we were going away for Christmas. Just my wife, myself and our two border collies in a little cottage in Norfolk. We stopped near to a beach which has the biggest seal colony in the UK with 2050 seal pups born between Christmas and November.
 
I new it would be quite with just the beaches and a pub within a minutes walk so took the kit with me.
 

 
So below is the first planking complete.

Thanks Druxey for info.  Knowing these are simple poles simplifies things and gives some latitude for "eyeballing".  I've noticed in the pictures I've seen that the poles seem to mimic the order of height of the masts.  Makes sense for the Royal Standard to be highest in the mainmast position, signifying its status.  Interesting the Admiralty flag is at the fore, and the national Union flag at the mizzen, possibly suggesting (in the Admiralty's eyes) its higher status 🙂  

1) No, they were simple poles reused for many launchings.
2) Look at contemporary paintings or models of launchings/with launch flags. You can estimate sizes from these.
3) I believe that plugs with suitable sized holes for the staffs were used. The bow staff was mounted through an eyebolt in the back of the hair bracket.
 
See the following examples, for instance:
 
http://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/15235.html
http://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/66473.html
http://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/12537.html

Looking good Doug, good idea not to belay those sheet and tack lines too soon.
One thing I would mention the sheets and tacks should run outside of all the standing rigging. If you visualise when working, the sheets and tacks attach to the outer lower corners of the sails, well outboard of the confines of the ship. The sheets would not be able to work if they ran inside of the backstays.
 
B.E.

Hello - things are getting rather harder to do. Having to move slowly with concentrated effort with the rigging and it is harder to tie lines off.
Some lines not tied off as they will have to be loosened so as to do the rest of the rigging lines.
Some photos.
 


 
 

 

 
The anchor cables in place. As I did not think far enough ahead and prepare the hatch cover to take the cables I have done the same as in my HM Brig Supply build and put the cables through the deck.
 

 
Thank you for looking in.
 
Regards
 
Doug

Great result on the pumps Pat, and happy new year to you and yours.

Lovely progress BE.  Your deck came out really well, I still can't figure out for the life of me how to 'calculate' the curvature of the deck planks other than eye-balling, there must be some sort of methodology.  The colours and details are really coming together now as shown in your last beauty shots.

So now the bulwarks are in, a coat of bondo applied to the gaps in the joint and sanded, and a quick shot of primer to highlight the "discrepancies"

Quietly working away.  Poop deck installed and top deck completed but I'm going to change the 'safety' rails around the top deck stairwells and use Sandecott's design instead.  They look too flimsy to me.
 
Also I've stolen my wife's spare hairdryer (not shown) to keep the finished part of the model clean after sanding /fitting new parts.  I hope she doesn't find out until I'm finished with it.