Beef Wellington

I have to check the PE install sheets again, but I hope the tower is ready to prime ... Radar dry fitted ...

 
Tripod aerial mast, one more to go, a tad smaller ...

I agree wholeheartedly with Martin, a waterline set too low creates an unbalanced look in my opinion, a higher line, besides being more historically accurate, provides more of a sense of "heft".  On my Snake the waterline is in my opinion too low (but not horribly so) which I did in blissful ignorance, but I see it everytime I look at her.

Really nice Mobbsie, I was not even aware of this kit until your build so nice to see something different, the stand is really subtle and discrete, love it.
 
As for the ensign, think you're good with the red duster as red, white and blue would still have been in use - and I believe the red was used for HM ships under admiralty orders, which I suspect a harbor gun boat would be....
 
Will look great anyway whichever way you go!

The position of the figure and look of the oar look good to me BE.  Ignorance is wonderful...can only guess that the functional reason for the loom is to provide some counter balance to the outboard weight of the oar and improve handling balance, but its interesting that your modern example (and any that I've seen) do not have this.  I would also have thought that the square loom would be beneficial if it extended to the tholes to keep the blade angle constantly perpendicular making it easier to control if there is no need to feather the blade angle (?)
 
 

The position of the figure and look of the oar look good to me BE.  Ignorance is wonderful...can only guess that the functional reason for the loom is to provide some counter balance to the outboard weight of the oar and improve handling balance, but its interesting that your modern example (and any that I've seen) do not have this.  I would also have thought that the square loom would be beneficial if it extended to the tholes to keep the blade angle constantly perpendicular making it easier to control if there is no need to feather the blade angle (?)
 
 

Thank you Steve, Mark and Martin.
@ Mark and Martin - With a single banked arrangement the rower should be close to the opposite side  to the tholes, to gain maximum leverage.

Here's a modern version of single banked rowing and you can see the rowers are close to the sides. These modern oars don't seem to have the old style looms but rather a slightly thickened and protected area where the oar passes thro' the oarlocks, although in this case not all the oars are set the same.  Not sure Martin that the extension outboard of the oar should change with the forward/backward movement of the rower, but I base this purely on my very limited experience of having an occasional scull up the river. 
 
Cheers Guys,
 
B.E.

Been too long since this has been updated.  Things around the household have become rather busy and hopefully a calm is coming.
 
I'm doing the inner planking and fitting the planks to the gunports as I go.  Rather fiddly but it's cut, glue and then sand to shape.   I'm trying to cut the planks more to the size between the ports just cut down the amount of sanding to fit.  I have at least the bottom of the ports done which will give me clearance and a clear demarkation of the ports, Hopefully the rest of this will go a bit faster.
 

 

The Breast Work for the QuarterDeck
 
This structure complements the Breast Work on the Fo'c'sle, but entails a bit more decoration on the stanchions, along with some sheaves.   As FFM states, It's worth taking a bit of time on this, because it really does add to the architectural beauty of the Swans.
 
The kit's plans show that the Breast work is 5/8" high.  I chose to start with 1/8" square boxwood for the stanchions.  I worked out a diagram that divided the length to allow for the curved part, the mortise for the lower rail, and the double sheaves at the bottom.  Then I turned the curved section on the lathe (FFM warns that it is virtually impossible to replicate the design exactly over five stanchions -- and that is very true, but at 1:64 I'm not terribly sure the differences are glaring).
 

 
Next I cut the slots on all four sides to create the tenons on which the bottom rail will fit.  Using the mill, I cut 1/32" on each side.
 

Using the kit's plans to determine the spacing of the stanchions, I marked a strip of 3/16" boxwood, and cut out the mortises, first using the jeweller's saw to make the cross cut, and then a 1/16" chisel to snip out the waste along the grain.
 

Back to the mill, I next drilled the sheaves.
 

Because these are double sheaves, they take up quite a bit of room.  I used my smallest cutter, and still the holes are pretty sizeable, leaving very little wood.  I cut a vertical groove in one pair of holes (not visible in the picture), and it removed so much wood that I worried about everything collapsing.
 
Along all the bottoms, I also cut a tenon to fit into the deck, but forgot to take a picture.  Fitting required paring out some space in the upward curve of the breast beam, then drilling a good sized hole to accommodate the tenon.  Since this structure could be holding some rigging, I wanted it set solidly into the deck.
 
Then, using the same strategy I followed on the Fo'c'sle to get the rail together (a strategy from FFM -- of course!), I put the back part of the rail on, let the glue dry over night, then put the thin front part in place. 
 

 
All the edges of the rail have moulding scraped into them.
 
And finally the top rail.  Again I used 3/16" boxwood, the same width as the lower rail.  And to simulate the through tenons, I drilled holes that I squared with a small chisel, then glued in 1/16" square boxwood.
 
Here are a few views:
 

 

 
My one concern is that this comes in a bit high -- it's a bit under 7/8", and with my own metallic Captain off in the ship-yard taverns, I can't use any figure to judge whether the difference is damning or not.  I'll stare at it a few days, and hope that some of you will weigh in.
 
Cbeers,
 
Martin

Really nice Mobbsie, I was not even aware of this kit until your build so nice to see something different, the stand is really subtle and discrete, love it.
 
As for the ensign, think you're good with the red duster as red, white and blue would still have been in use - and I believe the red was used for HM ships under admiralty orders, which I suspect a harbor gun boat would be....
 
Will look great anyway whichever way you go!

Really nice Mobbsie, I was not even aware of this kit until your build so nice to see something different, the stand is really subtle and discrete, love it.
 
As for the ensign, think you're good with the red duster as red, white and blue would still have been in use - and I believe the red was used for HM ships under admiralty orders, which I suspect a harbor gun boat would be....
 
Will look great anyway whichever way you go!

Really nice Mobbsie, I was not even aware of this kit until your build so nice to see something different, the stand is really subtle and discrete, love it.
 
As for the ensign, think you're good with the red duster as red, white and blue would still have been in use - and I believe the red was used for HM ships under admiralty orders, which I suspect a harbor gun boat would be....
 
Will look great anyway whichever way you go!

Really nice Mobbsie, I was not even aware of this kit until your build so nice to see something different, the stand is really subtle and discrete, love it.
 
As for the ensign, think you're good with the red duster as red, white and blue would still have been in use - and I believe the red was used for HM ships under admiralty orders, which I suspect a harbor gun boat would be....
 
Will look great anyway whichever way you go!

Really nice Mobbsie, I was not even aware of this kit until your build so nice to see something different, the stand is really subtle and discrete, love it.
 
As for the ensign, think you're good with the red duster as red, white and blue would still have been in use - and I believe the red was used for HM ships under admiralty orders, which I suspect a harbor gun boat would be....
 
Will look great anyway whichever way you go!

Hope this is temporary also,  I have had nothing but exceptional service from Crown in the past and hope that nothing serious has occurred.

Really nice Mobbsie, I was not even aware of this kit until your build so nice to see something different, the stand is really subtle and discrete, love it.
 
As for the ensign, think you're good with the red duster as red, white and blue would still have been in use - and I believe the red was used for HM ships under admiralty orders, which I suspect a harbor gun boat would be....
 
Will look great anyway whichever way you go!

Hello from Chicago to all of my good and concerned friends. My son in law was able to have a company plane come down and pick up my wife and I and a few others at the last minute and we are now with my family in the Chicago area. I am obviously relieved and thankful to be here, but also feeling a little guilty for leaving my friends in Florida. I now join all those who are hoping for the safety of those still facing the storm. Thanks again to all for your support. 
 
Bob

Hi Guys,
Back from the Hols this time and ready to finish this rather long winded log.
 
The next thing for me to ponder was the type of stand to put her on, I didn't want the kit stand as it seemed a bit chunky. I decided to make what I can only call "feet".
I cut a paper template and cut the feet from 6mm Swiss Pear, I quite like them as they are unobtrusive and they serve the purpose
 

 

The Bow "Foot" in place.

The stern "Foot" in place, I think they fit quite nicely and do not draw the eye.

Only remains to put all the parts together and complete the rigging, the rigging was very simple and did not take long at all, various ropes were used such as Morope, Caldercraft and the local haberdashery shop. Unfortunately I didn't take enough pictures of the methods used and so there is a big jump.
 

The mast has been stepped and fully rigged

This rig is really simple, no Ratlines ( lovely )
 


Bow on, all the little bits have been placed inside, none are fixed.

I've just noticed the ensign, it's the Red Ensign (Red Duster) which is for the Merchant Navy, I will have to get a White Ensign.

The knots on the Yard are correct and quick release.

The final picture, it's done, I did enjoy building this boat and would recommend it to anyone.
I hope you enjoyed what turned out to something of a long journey and I thank you for your patience.
 

Next up will be HMS Pickle, I love the story behind this little boat.
 
Be Good
 
mobbsie
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

I would LOVE the idea of any 'kit' POF kit with precute frame pieces - a definite buy as a stepping stone to fully scratch build.

Hope this is temporary also,  I have had nothing but exceptional service from Crown in the past and hope that nothing serious has occurred.

Hope this is temporary also,  I have had nothing but exceptional service from Crown in the past and hope that nothing serious has occurred.

Hope this is temporary also,  I have had nothing but exceptional service from Crown in the past and hope that nothing serious has occurred.

Hope this is temporary also,  I have had nothing but exceptional service from Crown in the past and hope that nothing serious has occurred.

Hope this is temporary also,  I have had nothing but exceptional service from Crown in the past and hope that nothing serious has occurred.

Pat - that is a great suggestion - cheers!  I had been mulling over how to reduce the quoin thickness but it seems much more practical and easier to use thinner wood fort the bed as this would probably not be noticed.  Will continue to mull this over.

Cheers gents.
 
Christian - I'm being consistent in using the Admiralty paints yellow ochre which I quite like.  Constant handling of these parts seems to be no match for any paint and paint rubs off the high spots despite an undercoat.  Should not be a problem to get looking OK when the time comes.
 
Cannon Conundrums (or "Armament Angst")
 
I felt I needed a bit of a change of pace while continuing to work slowly on the stern, and decided to get a head start on the cannons as I foresee these being a rather repetitive activity.  Psychologically, it feels like I'm getting a head start on things a little by commencing work on these now rather than waiting until I have to do them.
The first decision was to finally decide on which barrels to go with.  Photos below show 3 options, specifically left to right, Chuck's Syren offering, RB Models and the kit supplied barrels.  I know I posted these pics in Andy's Diana log, but can't remember if I did here so pls forgive any repetition!
Kit provide barrels - Painful as it is, the kit provided ones just don't cut the mustard with the bore being too large, the muzzle not being the right shape and the pommel just way too big. Chuck's barrels are very nice indeed, while the length certainly works, the bore seems a little small and for a 1:64 18lb'er and overall the barrel is a little dainty to my eye RBs Models (44mm) are also very nicely shaped and to my eye seem to fit the needed proportions best.  Each barrel is also supplied with a scale precut trunnion of high quality, so some labour would be saved there.
Next up, carriages.  I had ordered a set of Chucks Syren carriages a while ago and finally got round to building one up in addition to a kit carriage for comparison.  Pictures are self explanatory and show the kit carriage with kit barrel (left) with Syren carriage and RB models barrel (right).  Making these up allowed all the possible permutations to be tried, but these are best comparison.  Note - these were built over a number of very brief 10 minute sessions when I could escape to the boat yard, i.e. very quick and dirty, with quick paint job and no fittings. 
 
Couple of things are apparent:
The kit walnut is not great, being very splintery with pronounced grain, and would require a lot of work to get an acceptable finish.  The carriage is noticeably a little more squat, and the 2mm thickness of the ply looks less substantial, and the trucks a little on the small side. Similar level of finish work on the Syren laser cut parts gives a much better result.  Dimensions all around look a little more pleasing to my eye.  
The width of the Syren carriage were made slightly wider than the plans indicate to try and better scale to the RB barrel.
 

 
Final comparison was to place in situ.  The RB/Syren combination seemed to sit nicely mid port.  Placement of a quoin will need to be thought about as the barrel is probably already at approximately the right elevation.  Feel the RB/Syren combo is  clear winner, despite the additional investment that will be needed my view is that this will ultimately provide a more enjoyable building experience, especially as 28 of these puppies will need to be made up...