Beef Wellington

BE, Pat, Joe, Michael, Nils, Wayne, JPAM  and the likes - thanks so much.
 
Ron - I'm hoping to make it, would love to see your fantastic Diana in person, my challenge is always football/soccer as I coach my sons team and that takes a big bite out of weekends at this time of year.  If I could just arrange a game in New London then I'd be set!
 
Small update, I've been missing making posts but I have a little to share and hope pictures make up for it.  Continuing to work on the more foundational aspects as I can.  Paint has been applied to the upper hull - I used Tamiya matt XF-18 medium blue.  I applied many layers of watered down paint and corrected larger imperfections, but left the slight imperfections from planking visible.  I'm no painter and have limited experience with modern acrylics!  Watering down the paint gives a nice smooth finish, but at the expense of surface uniformity - this should disappear completely once a clear sealer is applied so not concerned.  I found that using a brush the undiluted paint dries so quickly that brush mark are inevitable.  Lots of touchup to do which should be pretty easy, but I want to get a protective coat of poly onto the boxwood to reduce the risk of mishaps.
 
The waist rail has been applied on one side and the side steps added.  I left gaps for the fenders, after having already cut these roughly to shape - using boxwood of course adds the number of pieces that need to be fabricated to keep consistent.  I wont attach these until later.  Steps were made using 2x2mm boxwood strip and a different profile scraper to the side molding and then cut length and shaping the ends.  These hopefully give more of an impression of the fine molding as keeping that to scale was just too much for me.  The upper and lower 2 steps are not glued yet.  I think they pass the scale test with the assistance of Able Seaman Lewis.


I've also made up the anchor lining bolsters, not identified in the kit plans but approximated from AOTS and TFFM.


And the usual 'all over' shot of where things stand..

 
 
 

BE, Pat, Joe, Michael, Nils, Wayne, JPAM  and the likes - thanks so much.
 
Ron - I'm hoping to make it, would love to see your fantastic Diana in person, my challenge is always football/soccer as I coach my sons team and that takes a big bite out of weekends at this time of year.  If I could just arrange a game in New London then I'd be set!
 
Small update, I've been missing making posts but I have a little to share and hope pictures make up for it.  Continuing to work on the more foundational aspects as I can.  Paint has been applied to the upper hull - I used Tamiya matt XF-18 medium blue.  I applied many layers of watered down paint and corrected larger imperfections, but left the slight imperfections from planking visible.  I'm no painter and have limited experience with modern acrylics!  Watering down the paint gives a nice smooth finish, but at the expense of surface uniformity - this should disappear completely once a clear sealer is applied so not concerned.  I found that using a brush the undiluted paint dries so quickly that brush mark are inevitable.  Lots of touchup to do which should be pretty easy, but I want to get a protective coat of poly onto the boxwood to reduce the risk of mishaps.
 
The waist rail has been applied on one side and the side steps added.  I left gaps for the fenders, after having already cut these roughly to shape - using boxwood of course adds the number of pieces that need to be fabricated to keep consistent.  I wont attach these until later.  Steps were made using 2x2mm boxwood strip and a different profile scraper to the side molding and then cut length and shaping the ends.  These hopefully give more of an impression of the fine molding as keeping that to scale was just too much for me.  The upper and lower 2 steps are not glued yet.  I think they pass the scale test with the assistance of Able Seaman Lewis.


I've also made up the anchor lining bolsters, not identified in the kit plans but approximated from AOTS and TFFM.


And the usual 'all over' shot of where things stand..

 
 
 

BE, Pat, Joe, Michael, Nils, Wayne, JPAM  and the likes - thanks so much.
 
Ron - I'm hoping to make it, would love to see your fantastic Diana in person, my challenge is always football/soccer as I coach my sons team and that takes a big bite out of weekends at this time of year.  If I could just arrange a game in New London then I'd be set!
 
Small update, I've been missing making posts but I have a little to share and hope pictures make up for it.  Continuing to work on the more foundational aspects as I can.  Paint has been applied to the upper hull - I used Tamiya matt XF-18 medium blue.  I applied many layers of watered down paint and corrected larger imperfections, but left the slight imperfections from planking visible.  I'm no painter and have limited experience with modern acrylics!  Watering down the paint gives a nice smooth finish, but at the expense of surface uniformity - this should disappear completely once a clear sealer is applied so not concerned.  I found that using a brush the undiluted paint dries so quickly that brush mark are inevitable.  Lots of touchup to do which should be pretty easy, but I want to get a protective coat of poly onto the boxwood to reduce the risk of mishaps.
 
The waist rail has been applied on one side and the side steps added.  I left gaps for the fenders, after having already cut these roughly to shape - using boxwood of course adds the number of pieces that need to be fabricated to keep consistent.  I wont attach these until later.  Steps were made using 2x2mm boxwood strip and a different profile scraper to the side molding and then cut length and shaping the ends.  These hopefully give more of an impression of the fine molding as keeping that to scale was just too much for me.  The upper and lower 2 steps are not glued yet.  I think they pass the scale test with the assistance of Able Seaman Lewis.


I've also made up the anchor lining bolsters, not identified in the kit plans but approximated from AOTS and TFFM.


And the usual 'all over' shot of where things stand..

 
 
 

BE, Pat, Joe, Michael, Nils, Wayne, JPAM  and the likes - thanks so much.
 
Ron - I'm hoping to make it, would love to see your fantastic Diana in person, my challenge is always football/soccer as I coach my sons team and that takes a big bite out of weekends at this time of year.  If I could just arrange a game in New London then I'd be set!
 
Small update, I've been missing making posts but I have a little to share and hope pictures make up for it.  Continuing to work on the more foundational aspects as I can.  Paint has been applied to the upper hull - I used Tamiya matt XF-18 medium blue.  I applied many layers of watered down paint and corrected larger imperfections, but left the slight imperfections from planking visible.  I'm no painter and have limited experience with modern acrylics!  Watering down the paint gives a nice smooth finish, but at the expense of surface uniformity - this should disappear completely once a clear sealer is applied so not concerned.  I found that using a brush the undiluted paint dries so quickly that brush mark are inevitable.  Lots of touchup to do which should be pretty easy, but I want to get a protective coat of poly onto the boxwood to reduce the risk of mishaps.
 
The waist rail has been applied on one side and the side steps added.  I left gaps for the fenders, after having already cut these roughly to shape - using boxwood of course adds the number of pieces that need to be fabricated to keep consistent.  I wont attach these until later.  Steps were made using 2x2mm boxwood strip and a different profile scraper to the side molding and then cut length and shaping the ends.  These hopefully give more of an impression of the fine molding as keeping that to scale was just too much for me.  The upper and lower 2 steps are not glued yet.  I think they pass the scale test with the assistance of Able Seaman Lewis.


I've also made up the anchor lining bolsters, not identified in the kit plans but approximated from AOTS and TFFM.


And the usual 'all over' shot of where things stand..

 
 
 

BE, Pat, Joe, Michael, Nils, Wayne, JPAM  and the likes - thanks so much.
 
Ron - I'm hoping to make it, would love to see your fantastic Diana in person, my challenge is always football/soccer as I coach my sons team and that takes a big bite out of weekends at this time of year.  If I could just arrange a game in New London then I'd be set!
 
Small update, I've been missing making posts but I have a little to share and hope pictures make up for it.  Continuing to work on the more foundational aspects as I can.  Paint has been applied to the upper hull - I used Tamiya matt XF-18 medium blue.  I applied many layers of watered down paint and corrected larger imperfections, but left the slight imperfections from planking visible.  I'm no painter and have limited experience with modern acrylics!  Watering down the paint gives a nice smooth finish, but at the expense of surface uniformity - this should disappear completely once a clear sealer is applied so not concerned.  I found that using a brush the undiluted paint dries so quickly that brush mark are inevitable.  Lots of touchup to do which should be pretty easy, but I want to get a protective coat of poly onto the boxwood to reduce the risk of mishaps.
 
The waist rail has been applied on one side and the side steps added.  I left gaps for the fenders, after having already cut these roughly to shape - using boxwood of course adds the number of pieces that need to be fabricated to keep consistent.  I wont attach these until later.  Steps were made using 2x2mm boxwood strip and a different profile scraper to the side molding and then cut length and shaping the ends.  These hopefully give more of an impression of the fine molding as keeping that to scale was just too much for me.  The upper and lower 2 steps are not glued yet.  I think they pass the scale test with the assistance of Able Seaman Lewis.


I've also made up the anchor lining bolsters, not identified in the kit plans but approximated from AOTS and TFFM.


And the usual 'all over' shot of where things stand..

 
 
 

Jason,
 
Excellent work, clean.
 
I'm bringing my bashed Diana (2013) to the upcoming Northeast Ship Modeler's Conference and Show in New London this April 29th. The Diana was my third ship model and is still one of my favorites. Fully-rigged now, but I'm contemplating adding furled sails - job I think I can accomplish by the end of April.
 
See you there?
 
Ron

I think that looks very good Jason, you have got a nice curve on the Quarter Gallery which is easy on the eye, so many of these items end up looking wedge shaped.
Love your moulding, light years ahead of the other options.  
 
B.E.

Nice bit of kit bashing Jason, those galleries have come up very nicely and will look even better with the decorations.  I found the other trick with the scraper mouldings is the choice of wood.
 
cheers
 
Pat

Very nice work there Jason. 

Very nice update - well done indeed.

Very nice work at the stern windows Jason,
 
Nils

That's a superb interpretation of the stern there Jason. It's great to see the steps you've taken to bring it closer to AOTS and it sure makes a difference.
Can't wait to see those carved figures - you know you want to...

fantastic, very ship shape. 

Hi Christian, a very nice fix on the hole for the seats of ease.  This seems to be a challenging area but sure it will look great.  The other difference/deficiency I see with the kit is that it seems to completely ignore a seat of ease in the back corner of the false rail and the ships side, simply leaving a large triangular hole which looks odd.  Are you thinking of adding those as well?  Your styrene yards are a much better solution to the really clunky white metal parts and look so much better.  Really nice work!

The Naiad Frigate Volume II – Addenda
 
As with Volume I, I will post addenda as necessary to Volume II  of The Naiad Frigate, here on this forum topic.  Here is the first:
Volume II, Addendum 1
First a printing omission:
 
In the final book production process the last paragraph and part of the preceding paragraph of Chapter 28 was somehow left out.  The last two paragraphs of Chapter 28. p 102 should read.:
 
 "You may wish to forgo the complexities described above in favor of simpler joints.  The quality of your models will not suffer simplification in these minor details.  However, I hope that the process described above will entice you to construct these authentically.
 
When the lower deck hatchways are installed, the ladders to the orlop level platforms can be added.  In keeping with our sequence and chapter arrangement, other lower decks details, partitions for example, will be covered with the upper deck framing in Chapter 31."
 
 
Some additional information on supporting the model during construction – not included in Volume II.
 
Once the rudder is installed the stern end support described in Volume I cannot be used.  A different method was adopted for the remaining construction.  The new supports made it easy to invert and replace the model in the upright position as required.
Initially, the two “clamped squares” were used to support and hold alignment by butting them up to the sides with the model screwed down to the board – as shown in the following picture:
 

 
With the clamps in position, a triangle is being used to center the top of the stern.  Whenever the model is turned upright, repositioned or when the clamped squares are moved, this process should be repeated - fore and aft.  It may be tempting not to do it if no precision construction is being done, but I recommend doing it every time to get in the habit.  It is also possible that you may wish to take an unexpected measurement or dimension check.  It takes only a moment to do this.  In the picture it was being done before starting some work on the taffrail.
 
Another type of support was constructed for this purpose as shown in the next picture:
 

 
The clamping base was made from pine strips.  Thesupport block was made of another soft wood, in this case white cedar, but any soft wood will suffice.  The top inside corner of the block should be rounded.  I made four of these.
 
The next picture shows these supports being used.  They are more versatile than the clamped squares.  They fit nicely out of the way on the lower hull.  Make sure the holddown bolts through the keel are tight and do not neglect the alignment check
 

 
The last picture shows the four supports supporting the finished model.
 

 
The above is also attached as a pdf that can be printed.
 
Naiad Frigate Volume II Addendum 1.pdf

Hi Ed,
 
Very ingenious! Thanks for showing this. I made some chocks a number of years ago (see photo), but I got nervous about leaving them for a long time because the finish might not "weather" as much behind the chocks as the rest of the hull, and I wasn't sure how I would fix it. You have given me an idea of putting some smaller "buttons" on the chocks so they touch less of the hull, and then using your great idea of using the side T-sections to clamp them in place. The other problem with mine is that the hull has to be removed to bolt the chocks in place. Your idea solves that problem.
 
Thanks!
 
Mark
 
 
 
 
 
 

Hello,
Yards : preparation : The stunsail brackets
 
As Ray quite rightly at page 15 mentions  (HMS Diana by Ray - FINISHED - Caldercraft/Jotika - A 38 gun Heavy Frigate, 1794) they are a bit oversized, indeed.
 
I decided to go for the "styrene"-option.
I used 0.25 mm thickness sheets. As the end of the yards are tapered, the strip that was to be bended and fixed with superglue around them, described a small curve.
The stunsail brackets are to be overpainted anyway.
The 3rd pic shows what was supplied with the kit
I also had to fore a 1mm hole at both extremeties of each concerned yard, no big deal.
 

So far for the good news show.
Here's a word of caution related to the position of the seats of ease in front of the gallion.
 
As the pics show and as consequence of a mistake of mine the, holes are covered.
So I filled them up, sanded with a high grid.
I'll see were to install on the gallion the seats of ease later on.
Sad but not critical.

Out of breath reading the last installment, so much to consider, the only think missing from this rip roaring tale are a couple of gypsies thrown in for spice.  I was devastated to see the issues with the log (seems to be every time that there is an upgrade) and want to say again how appreciative of your time and effort I, and I'm sure everyone, is to keep this jewel of a log alive and kicking.  So much great information, tips and tricks...I love the shot of the great cabin deck, I'm assuming its not accessible at this point though?

BE, let me add my voice to the loud chorus of people that appreciate all the time you have put into not only posting your very detailed build log -- one of the very best logs ever on MSW -- but also for reposting it twice!  I have to say, you are a saint in being so patient and good hearted about all this.  I have to confess that I don't think that I would do the same one time, let alone twice.

small update:
 
the upper brass profiles on the railing are carrying base for the mahagoni handrails (glue on with CA)
 
Nils
 

the U-type brass mini- profiles give stable strength to the fragile upper railing wire
 
 

like here on the aft ship railing
 
 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 
 

Update :
 
ladders to the midships platform, railings to the lower bridge, and supports for the upper bridge (railings still require some straight bending, wooden handrails and paint)
the structures in the light tower areas require some filler material before final painting....
 
Nils
 

several stairways attached
 

 
 

boats winch in foreground, the whole boatsdeck is crowded with "detail structures", I`m quite pleased that all could find its place in accordance with the actual ship
 

supports for upper bridge, railings for lower bridge, light tower areas require some filler and repainting. Left some fingertips in the pic for scaling
 

 
 

all fragile parts, I do`nt think its so wise to choose that small scale again 
 

those upper railing wires hardly withstand touching, structure here filler is needed
 
 
 

Hi Carl,
 
in answer to your earlier question, I would like to provide this illustration :
 
this is what the funnel guy wires will be like, here I started with funnel 3 + 4
The steel wires are 0,3 mm diam. normaly used for wire controlled model aircraft. The fact that they are tin-galvanized coated provides excellent soldering possibilities. The buckle screws are smallest I could find (M1,4 left /right thread), I blackened these chemically.
The small center drilled nickel beads are from a fashion jewelery store
 
Nils
 

 

small update :
 
all the fastening points for the funnel guy wires are placed. In order to check if they go clear with the structures and they do`nt foul the vents and the boats, I put on preliminary thin polyester threads that resemble the tin coated steel wires that will be attached in their place and each one spanned with its own buckle screw. It looks like all is clear to go....
 
Nils
 

 

 

 

 

 

Thank you very much Denis,
 
made 2 additional smaller watertanks for the aft boatsdeck today and added the fill- and discharge tubes on all three
 
Nils