HSM
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HSM got a reaction from mtaylor in applying glue
For CA I use toothpicks and an aluminum foil glue pot.
I "fork" the tip of a toothpick with a knife and dip that tip in the glue. When it's loaded with gunk I fork the other end or throw it out and use a new one.
I have a piece of scrap wood with some ~8mm holes drilled in it. I pull off a bit of aluminum foil and press it into the hole to create a glue pot. Have the aluminum big enough to fold over the edges of the wood or it will lift with the toothpick when you lift it up.
Dirt cheap and makes for very controllable glue applications. Works for me!
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HSM got a reaction from thibaultron in Armchair wreck-hunting
Someone recently found the concrete ship wreck shown in the Amazing Photos thread, so I thought I'd share one I've visited in person.
Near Churchill, Manitoba Canada is the wreck of the SS Ithaca. Here is the Google Satellite image and Wikipedia article.
If you know of a wreck visible on Google Satellite from anywhere in the world, please post it! I find these derelict hulks fascinating.
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HSM got a reaction from ScottRC in Sailing ship rigging on "How Do They Do It"
Discovery Channel here in Canada has a program called "How Do They Do It", and one of the pieces on tonight's show is on how they make rigging for sailing ships. The example they are using is the Cutty Sark.
The show is 1/2 hour long and there are 3 segments to a show so the rope making part will be about 6-7 minutes long. Not much, but then again there is not much for our types on television these days :-)
Interesting program if anyone wants to search for it in their local area!
http://www.sciencechannel.com/tv-shows/how-do-they-do-it/
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HSM reacted to kurtvd19 in Making tiny rivet/bolt heads
The Archer "rivets" are minute bits of C/A on decal film. The strip of rivets is cut from the sheet and applied like any decal. The film is very thin and a bit of clear coat blends the edges into the surface so the edges of the strip are completely invisible.
I have done the hand applied drops of C/A and the Archer rivet decals - will never do the hand application again. They also have weld seam decals that work the same way. Depending on the scale you are working in would determine the scale of the rivets or welds you applied. Ho or the larger 1/48 scale decals might both work on the same model depending on the size of the rivet being replicated.
Kurt
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HSM got a reaction from JPett in Tips and Tricks for Airbrushing
I have a Badger Patriot (double-action, gravity feed) that I love. One thing that I do with it is after painting and cleaning out the paint cup is fill the paint cup with water and shoot the clean water into the sink, and I put my finger carefully (not to bend the needle) over the tip to cover it. This reverses the action of the air from suction to pressure, and it blows any paint remaining in the needle mechanism back into the cup. I alternate finger on, finger off, finger on...... several times until clean water stays clean in the cup. Oh, yeah..... if you have a gravity feed airbrush this may spit paint out of the cup so cover it up until you know how it reacts!
This works with siphon feed airbrushes too and you will see bubbles come up from the siphon tube when you put your finger over the tip.
Anything I can do to avoid disassembling that thing I will do :-)
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HSM got a reaction from Don9of11 in How to print a flag
I print them on regular printer paper and then over-coat them with flat clear to protect the ink from moisture. It takes a few tries to get the two sides of the paper registered but the results are worth it. I find the flags look better folded to represent light winds than they do when "flying". I see my avatar is the same image, but the only one I have in larger format online is a mix of two photos (same model).
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HSM got a reaction from Ponto in What keel clamp is recommended?
I've built 30+ models and never used or wished I had one. I have an old towel that I roll up on the bench and put the model on that when working on it. Consider getting into the build first and working with whatever tools/techniques you have, and then decide as you go what you need and what you don't. Maybe I'm just cheap but it bothers me to spend $$ on something that I buy and then never end up using.
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HSM got a reaction from mtaylor in What keel clamp is recommended?
I've built 30+ models and never used or wished I had one. I have an old towel that I roll up on the bench and put the model on that when working on it. Consider getting into the build first and working with whatever tools/techniques you have, and then decide as you go what you need and what you don't. Maybe I'm just cheap but it bothers me to spend $$ on something that I buy and then never end up using.
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HSM got a reaction from GuntherMT in How to print a flag
I print them on regular printer paper and then over-coat them with flat clear to protect the ink from moisture. It takes a few tries to get the two sides of the paper registered but the results are worth it. I find the flags look better folded to represent light winds than they do when "flying". I see my avatar is the same image, but the only one I have in larger format online is a mix of two photos (same model).
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HSM got a reaction from Mfelinger in How to print a flag
I print them on regular printer paper and then over-coat them with flat clear to protect the ink from moisture. It takes a few tries to get the two sides of the paper registered but the results are worth it. I find the flags look better folded to represent light winds than they do when "flying". I see my avatar is the same image, but the only one I have in larger format online is a mix of two photos (same model).
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HSM got a reaction from justsayrow in Cad Programs
I use Turbocad on a PC and love it. Easy to use and very powerful once you get a bit of practice with it.
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HSM reacted to von stetina in Lightning by von stetina - 1/96 - extreme clipper
Here are some pics of the yards being built. I made the cradle to help hold them still as I worked on them. Also, here are some details of the tops and crosstrees.
My methods are the standard ones. The masts were shaped from square blanks of lemonwood taken from bow staves. Yards too. It was a lot of shaping. Timely, but really not too difficult. It gave me a lot of control.
The deadeyes and bullseyes were made using standard jig techniques.
There is a lot of metal work involved. There will be a lot of chain rigging too. I've measured a need for about 9 feet. I've made some chain, but decided to use some 40 link per inch stuff I've found. Making this much was just too much for me. So far this is the only thing I've bought ready made except for thread.
I'm making the 11 1/2 inch and 8 inch standing rigging size line right now on my rope walk. This is for the lower shrouds and stays. I'll need a lot of the 11 1/2 as the Lightning had this huge stuff all they up to her topgallant back and forstays! It may look a bit heavy, but McKay really layed on the strong stuff for some of his ships. Especially the ones for the Australian emigrant ships like Lightning.
By the way, I have a list all of the laws layed down by the captain for the passengers. PHEW !!! I'm working on a book too.
I'm still trying to load that photo of her real figurehead that's rotting in a garage down under....
Bruce
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HSM reacted to von stetina in Lightning by von stetina - 1/96 - extreme clipper
Thanks for the great replies everyone. Micheal, do you want to part with any of that wood? It would be great as part of a base.
Seeing the increase in clipper model interest on this site I thought it would be good to include several pics of where the masting and rigging is going.
I'm tying to post a pic of her real figurehead too. It's rotting away in some old guys garage down under.
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HSM got a reaction from WackoWolf in Best Gold Paint??
I've had a Krylon Gold Leafing pen for maybe 10 years and it still flows like it was new. Gives great coverage, drys quickly and looks great! I've just added the silver pen and it works just as well. I got these from Michaels art supplies in Canada but have seen them in craft departments of other stores as well.
http://www.krylon.com/products/leafing-pens/
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HSM got a reaction from NMBROOK in Everyone's paint preference
I use artists acrylics almost exclusively. There are literally thousands of colors and they are cheap and easy to find at any craft store. Most brush and spray very well, but others are a bit more work. It seems the difficulties I have are more color dependant than manufacturer dependant, so if Folkart's "fire-engine red" (just kidding Brian ;-) doesn't mix or spray well I'll try a similar color from anothe manufacturer.
I do totally agree, bright colors on a period ship can make an otherwise great work look "cartoonish". Dull down those bright colors guys!
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HSM got a reaction from hamilton in Everyone's paint preference
I use artists acrylics almost exclusively. There are literally thousands of colors and they are cheap and easy to find at any craft store. Most brush and spray very well, but others are a bit more work. It seems the difficulties I have are more color dependant than manufacturer dependant, so if Folkart's "fire-engine red" (just kidding Brian ;-) doesn't mix or spray well I'll try a similar color from anothe manufacturer.
I do totally agree, bright colors on a period ship can make an otherwise great work look "cartoonish". Dull down those bright colors guys!
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HSM got a reaction from Jaxboat in Everyone's paint preference
I use artists acrylics almost exclusively. There are literally thousands of colors and they are cheap and easy to find at any craft store. Most brush and spray very well, but others are a bit more work. It seems the difficulties I have are more color dependant than manufacturer dependant, so if Folkart's "fire-engine red" (just kidding Brian ;-) doesn't mix or spray well I'll try a similar color from anothe manufacturer.
I do totally agree, bright colors on a period ship can make an otherwise great work look "cartoonish". Dull down those bright colors guys!
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HSM got a reaction from JerseyCity Frankie in Everyone's paint preference
I use artists acrylics almost exclusively. There are literally thousands of colors and they are cheap and easy to find at any craft store. Most brush and spray very well, but others are a bit more work. It seems the difficulties I have are more color dependant than manufacturer dependant, so if Folkart's "fire-engine red" (just kidding Brian ;-) doesn't mix or spray well I'll try a similar color from anothe manufacturer.
I do totally agree, bright colors on a period ship can make an otherwise great work look "cartoonish". Dull down those bright colors guys!
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