barkeater

I have blackened after gluing and there was loosening. I wont do it again.

Rich

Model Expo and Historic Ships both carry eyebolts. I'm sure just about any hobby outlet catering to model boat builders would carry them. They are pretty easy to make. Use silver wire (26 guage should work in your scale) for metal fabrication (eyebolts, ring bolts, hooks, etc.) as it is stronger and holds a shape better than craft wire which bends to easy. I silver solder my metal work but for eye bolts you probably don't have to unless you are going to have them under a lot of tension. I just use two needle nose pliers without a form such as the drill bit mentioned above but doing them on a form would give you more consistency.

Welcome and do let us know what you are interested in.

The battle of Valcour Island was pivotal in the success of the American Revolutionary War stopping the British forces from coming down lake Champlain in 1776. This stopped the invasion that year which allowed the colonials another year to organize and when the British strike came next year they were defeated at Saratoga. Although Benedict Arnold and his hastily built fleet were defeated they quite possibly saved the American Revolution. While the Philadelphia may have had a short life and unfortunately was sunk she is a truly historic vessel. Good luck on her build.

I use an electric plank bender and they work fine. I do not hold them in place however while they dry. I'm talking about the second planking on a double planked ship.  I bend them to the curve I want testing by putting them in place. When I'm satisfied I just let them dry on my bench and then next day glue then treenail. I use pva and hold in place with fingers for a count of 100 and this usually works. Really tough bends may require holding to a count of 300 but they do stick.

Congratulations. Nice vessel,

Welcome aboard.

I would also recommend semi soft silver wire which can be purchased online in multiple gauges. I find it stronger than a lot of craft wire. You have to silver solder it instead of soft solder but you get a stronger end product. It blackens nicely and can be flattened or shaped to make parts such as latches and hinges.

Yippee! I added the website to my favorites list. 

It is difficult to work with, requiring a lot of work to bend it, and it is toxic but it looks soooo good. I use it for wales. It also is good anchors, stoves and accent pieces such as window frames. If you need to bend it, work in stages, soaking, heat bending then soaking and heating again until you get the curve you need. I leave all wood natural color without painting so I am always looking to add in different types and colors of wood to give contrast.

Do all your lines to a particular mast or yard. Wrap them around their appropriate belaying pins leaving a small tail in case you have to adjust. When all lines have been placed with good tension glue using pva to the pins. Add your rope coils and your done.

I'm a lazy susan type of guy.

Congratulations. Awesome!

Excellent and fascinating work all along in your restoration. Thanks for sharing.

Tough to say without seeing it but I would consider a small amount of cyanoacrylate. It will be visible so only a tiny bit.

Nicely done. 

Back to the original question. If you follow the rigging as shown in Lee's book or others you should not need to use a brass rod. I would recommend Petersson's "Rigging Period Ship Models" as the book is all simplified illustrations of different lines including lifts, truss pendants, jeers, slings and pendants along with braces. There is very little if any text and no discussion of different changes over time like Lee's book but the drawings are clear and simple.  

Rich

Dremel?!!!! You are a brave man. Glad it worked out. Looks great.

If you are going to stain it, do it before you add a different wood unless you are going to stain that wood too with the same stain/color. I do not stain at all but leave the wood natural color. As to varnish, varnish will give you a shiny surface. depending on what you are building this may be good or bad. I use Testores Dullcoat which is a matte finish and does not shine. For what I build I feel the dull finish is more appropriate. Take a test try on scrap if in doubt.

Rich

Agree that the break was a blessing in disguise. It looks much better without the bulge.

Great stuff. I find it very puzzling too why on the earlier repair the preventer was run under the pin rail. Snaking it under makes no sense from an accuracy point of view and would be harder to do? From the picture it looks like there was enough clearance to run it straight to the bowsprit.

Have you ever tried fly tying thread?  I fly fish and starting using it on my builds. It comes in very small sizes much thinner than sowing thread. I use 6/0 and 8/0 to serve or lash lines.  It comes in many colors including black and tan.

Interesting that you are starting to get more background info on the model. 

The splice came out nice.

Enjoying your work. Is there any way to use bone instead of ivory?