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JerryTodd

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Everything posted by JerryTodd

  1. JerryTodd
    The rudder head comes through the counter and there's no place to run linkage through that wouldn't be obvious and clunky looking. Pride had relieving tackle rigged most of the time and rigging the steering this way approximates that somewhat.
  2. JerryTodd
    I've been trying to figure out the steering so I can get this one in the water. I thought I had a plan; the tiller lines would run through blocks in the waterways into tubes in the lazerette hatch coaming and then on to a servo mounted in the main cabin. but that part of the plan wasn't going to work out. The problem is, there isn't enough room below decks for the servo to move a large enough arm to get the tiller to move as far as I need it to go. A quadrant or drum set-up wasn't getting it, and there's no way to set-up a direct linkage with push-rods and such. So, I placed the servo for the steering forward of the battery and routed the tiller lines up to it. I epoxied in a couple of blocks just forward of the battery to mount the rudder servo deck on, and jury-rigged an arm on the servo to try to nail down this rudder control thing.
  3. JerryTodd
    On the prototypes, shrouds are precut to length, wormed, parceled, and served fully or partially, and mounted on the boat. Model's shrouds are typically cut long, the dead-eyes and lanyards are pre-set to length, and the shroud is pulled around the upper deadeye, seized, and made fast, and then cut to length, so all the deadeyes line up nice and neat. You would need to serve the shroud to it's end and when you go to cut it to length, glue it at the cut so the serving doesn't unlay. You might also use fabric glue on the ends of the shroud as you're serving it, as it's flexible and shouldn't interfere with bending it around the dead-eye.
  4. JerryTodd
    There's no heat or AC in my shop/garage, so over the winter nothing of substance got done and the garage served more as an extension to the refrigerator. With warmer weather here the focus is on getting the garage cleared up and usable as a shop. The bandsaw got casters, the tablesaw's casters got repaired, and small cabinet with a bunch of shallow drawers found at a thrift store was added for all my little tools. It requires moving a lot of stuff out onto the driveway to work on the shop and then it started to rain - a lot. During the monsoon I was playing around in my old 3D drawing program with an old idea for a 4 foot by 6 foot work-table on casters and I think I finally nailed a mechanism that will work. There's a lot of folks here that suffer from work-area space issues and a need tools and tables to be mobile - so I thought I'd share this with you. A lot of it was inspired by a fellow on YouTube and this video: Here's some images of the 3D model (drawn in free software called Anim8or) Please pardon Posin' Paul, he's just there for scale. With some internal bits removed so you can see; the brown arms are L iron from a bed frame. The 6 casters are mounted on a 3/4" thick white pine board and levered against a strip of wood. Lowering the end of the bed-frame sticking out of the right of the table, levers the wheels down and lifts the table an inch off the floor. No hinges are used saving $20 at least. The whole caster set-up will slide right out if you want to remove them for some reason. The top is 4' x 6' with hardboard (Masonite) work surface that can be replaced if it gets too gnarly. The body is basically two 5 foot by 21.5" boxes built of OSB (Oriented Strand Board) which is running about $12 for a 3/4" x 4' x 8' sheet. The caster levers operate in a 2" gap between the boxes making the body 45" wide and 60" long. A pair of drawers will go into one of the pigeon holes; a vice get mounted in one end, and electrical outlets will be installed on all four sides There will probably be hooks and such on the ends to hang things. The skirting around the base will have relief cut in (not show in pics) so the table will essentially have four feet to sit on; and the lever will have a latching system to hold it down in the deployed position. The height of the table is designed for it to also act as an out-feed table for my table-saw. Obviously a 4 x 6 table may be a bit much for some of you, but it's the caster set-up I'm mainly showing you here - which can be adapted to nearly any size bench or table, as shown in Carl's video above. When I get to building this beast, I'll add it to this thread.
  5. JerryTodd
    I painted the sheeter arms red, 'cause I still have a can of red spray paint and not much else to do with it. The set-up is mounted between the servos This shows the arms at their full extent with the servo arms centered. The amount of sheet the arms have to haul on either side for each sail is: Starboard servo: Fore sheet: 17.5" / 44cm Main sheet: not measured yet Port servo: Fore stays'l: 4" / 10cm Flying jib: 11" / 28cm Jib sheet: 13.5" / 34cm Tops'l yard brace: 15.5" / 39cm For those of you only familiar with Pride II, here's the sail plan of both Prides at the same scale to show the difference in size between the two.
  6. JerryTodd
    Let's hope this works.... I cut 4 sticks 6-1/2" long, 3/4" wide, and 3/16" thick from pine. I tapered and sanded them. They stacked, two each, on a bit of brass tubing as a bushing to keep the pivot holes from wearing larger. A pan-head screw serves as a pivot pin and holds them to a common block so it's all one assembly. There's a thin styrene "washer" between them and on top, and they sit on a 1/4" Delrin block to lift them over the servo arm. The block will be screwed to the servo-tray between the two sail-arm servos, one pair facing port, the other starboard.
  7. JerryTodd
    So here's a rough idea of how the sails will be controlled. Two "Mega-sail-arm" servos will be used with the Semaphore Sheeter as described above to control the sheets of the heads'ls, fores'l, mains'l, the running stays, and the tops'l yard braces.
  8. JerryTodd
    Well, busting my bottom the get Constellation rigged for sailing in open water at the Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum Model Expo this weekend and the event's been cancelled because of a tropical storm coming up the coast. I think I'll continue on prepping her and maybe take her down to Annapolis in a couple of weeks and sail her on the Severn.
  9. JerryTodd
    If was made from Legos you wouldn't have to worry about sawdust and you'd be a feature in the international news.
  10. JerryTodd
    It was never U.S.S. Niagara - the designation USS didn't come into common usage until the 1860's or official usage until the 1900's.
  11. JerryTodd
    Below is a reduced image of the full size plans I've been working on as of today. They're a lot closer to "finished" at least as using them to cut out forms goes. sheesh, I need to learn to proof-read
  12. JerryTodd
    Why sew them? If you managed to maintain 1mm stitches - how long would each stitch be in your model's scale? How wide would the thread be in scale? There's seam lines already printed on the sail, leave it at that.
  13. JerryTodd
    I have a LOT of catching up to do! The Evans model has taken my focus off my own models completely and I'm trying to get Constellation sail-able in open water by early October at the Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum. I also want to have Pride sail-able by then as well. Gazela's still literally on the drawing board as the museum isn't interested in making copies of the plans unless I pay them enough to build another boat for their collection, so I have to work from scratch. It won't be "to the plan" but it'll look that way - if I can ever get back to her again.
  14. JerryTodd
    It's supposed to be "as launched." He's doing something about 15 years later.
  15. JerryTodd
    After your teaser images of the McNarry model, I posted some images I took of it in 09 in the gallery.
  16. JerryTodd
    It's back to the rear of the stove again. I have to build a Revell 1:144 Fletcher kit into the Uss Evans to replace the old Lindberg model I slapped together back in 1981. There's a section for this on my site and I might start one here once I get a bit further into it.
  17. JerryTodd
    Quite often the glue, like epoxy, is harder than the wood. Using sandpaper will scour out wood faster than it removes the glue, where a scraper will take everything down evenly.
  18. JerryTodd
    All the main deck gunports and windows are finally cut out. The focs'l and quarterdeck port will be cut after the inside is framed up a bit. Thought I had forgotten about this one, eh?
  19. JerryTodd
    Spent some time at the post awful picking op a package that allegedly couldn't be delivered on May 14 because no one was home to sign for it - despite being in the garage with the door open and waving at the carrier when he drove up. He also didn't leave any notice in the box, and I had to contact the shipper to find out it's been sitting at the post awful for two weeks. This isn't the sort of thing I ought to work on after an aggravating morning, but I used the trip to go and get some brass and just got immersed in trying to figure this out. If you're wondering, it's the mizzen tops'l yard parrell collar thing
  20. JerryTodd
    What tkay shows is only present on loose footed sails where it is a clew -outhaul and apparently serves as part of the reefing tackle. The sheet attaches to the boom. A sail who's foot is laced, lashed, jackstayed, etc to the boom wouldn't have this gear as such, though it could be reefing tackle. The original sketch didn't show the tackle connected to anything in this manner which is why it looked to me like a stowed preventer.
  21. JerryTodd
    Sea chests nearly always had loops of line for handles at either end, often covered in fancy knotwork and held on by a vertical cleat. Take a look at this site for a variety of chests and their beckets - there's a couple that date to the early 1800's. Often a painting or carving, or even something on paper was pasted inside the lid where it was protected from the abuse the chest was bound to get. A fellow digging in his sea chest with a little painting inside would be nice in your wonderful scene of happy marines. http://www.frayedknotarts.com/chests.html
  22. JerryTodd
    Here's your musket Dafi... It was 136 cm long with a94cm barrel - a little shorter than the Land pattern issued to infantry. There was also a grenade launcher that could be fitted in lieu of a bayonet: The most noticeable and identifying thing about the Brown Bess was the swell in the stock about 1/2 way between the trigger and the end of the barrel. And some info on it and it's family: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brown_Bess I did the Bicentennial of the American Revolution back in the 70's as a seaman and carried an original sea service Bess, loved that old girl The Penobscott Expedition 1979 Me and my Bess are on the right
  23. JerryTodd
    End boards at the bow Fairlead for the fore-tack Mizzen spencer step cleaned up, painted, and installed and an experiment. I finally found my engraver again while digging through the shop looking for something else. I used it to trace the scroll-work of the trailboard into some pine. I pressed some modeling clay onto it to see what sort of impression it would make. I think it may do the job. I'd frame around the carving and pour resin into it to take the engraving and form a backboard that would get attached to the stem knee of the model.
  24. JerryTodd
    I cut the sound on the vid because it was mostly the radio playing in the background - Baltimore radio, even the so-called "classic rock" station sucks. Next time I'll put in a Stan Rogers or Gordon Bok CD. In the sailing portion there was some guy on a loud-speaker introducing Helen Bentley to the crowd. I have a hard time finding decent music that YouTube won't block for copyright, so I just leave it out.
  25. JerryTodd
    If I could come up with a multi-shot system for the pivots, I'd jump on it - but I'm not interested in a single-shot system where I have to bring the boat in and reload it each time. I'm going to get the hull detailed and get controls in order - I can always toss the rig together if something comes up. The hull needs: the rest of the folding bulwarks made the scroll work trailboards on the head pin-rails, including turning the posts for the ones behind the fore and main masts eyebrows over the gun-ports boarding steps gratings glass in the skylight rails on the deck for the guns, new/reworked gun slides Chain-plates stern boomkin repaired - schooner knocked it off last sail ships wheel made - which is a matter of making the 20 spokes. Capstan made davits and the rest of the boats galley stack weather cloths on the head I think that's it, not including rigging

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