Nirvana
-
Posts
5,000 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Everything posted by Nirvana
-
Blackie, I am following your build with interest just like Floyd, There are details I am to implement to my build . Thank you for all the drawings. -
Michael, any decent fly fishing shop has the bobbin (hangers), found one at Cabelas for 4 dollars (don't recommend it) and upward.
-
Many of our instructions reads: "after placing the first two or three hull planking under the deck, find the most natural way for the "main" strake. With my current project X, I have found not one but four natural lines for the planking strips to follow without twisting and bending. Should I follow them and add in the missing and twisted? I have divided the hull into three sections, and just following the hull line seems more natural to me. Again, just my two cents
-
Janos, I am intending to use it both with regular soldering iron but also with the micro butane solder. I will try to give MM a call tomorrow to hear more about the issue of burned areas, and areas that peels off. I will get back to you. Thank you for the feed back.
-
I have on several encounters has issues with soldering, especially when it comes to add a third to first part with out un-soldering the first part. There are so many times when soldering include several parts. How have you solved this problem? I have found a soldering pad from Micromark I like to try out, but wonder if any one has tried the before? I am very happy to make an order to try it out, if not and make a review.
-
I will certainly try Cherry or Pear for planking in another project, so far the walnut has worked just fine for me, both bending and splicing. Having a neighbor with Cherry and Pear, Apple orchard close by, gonna make sure to get some of the wood for kiln drying and cutting next year. Two pieces of walnut with the one minute method gluing CA points at the ends and in the middle and then regular Titebond I in between. Works almost like epoxy, the CA grips directly and the.wood glue gives the strength.
-
I am very careful using putty, as my father said once "use it with moderation" Attached you find my current build build, one of the sides has gotten a treatment of putty.
-
Where Do You Keep Your Working Plans
Nirvana replied to BubbleHead's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Thank you very much for a fantastic presentation of your workshop, short and consist, I just need "my perfect" workshop, if it ever will exist. -
Thank you for the tip will try it with walnut.
-
Meredith, I looked into the fretsaw of yours and from the company. They also have one with swivel blade clamps on both sides, price 93 dollars!
-
Russ and Mark plus everybody else, thank you for the help, I think I have the correct directions of where to go with this AL kit. Build log will be there, for this Project X, which has a name.
-
Well this model is supposed to have the soft limewood as first layer and then topped with thin walnut. However, it came with thick walnut base layer and then to have thin walnut on top. But I have decided to go single layer. That's the background to my question. My Constructo America was supposed to have dual layer, but I went single since it was to be painted. The America also had the thick walnut base layer. The America got the keels installed afterwards which contributed to difficulties with the rabbet lines. Thank you all for the information and your point of views.
-
Where Do You Keep Your Working Plans
Nirvana replied to BubbleHead's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
I have the overview plan in between two pieces of 1/4" plexiglass and one on the wall, the one on the wall do have tiles of cork behind so I can pin them. -
LFrank, I will get a bigger for my next project, thank you for the tip!
-
I have found in several instructions especially from AL that you should plank the hull before adding the keel to the false keel. Wonder if it isn't better to add it before planking, this in order to get the correct rabbet line? Anyone who knows better? Thank you
-
I had to add with material on the sides of the bulkheads as they were much thinner than the material list stated. I used basswood for this. However I added on with wood at the edge level and about 1cm inwards, didn't see the purpose of covering the whole bulkhead. It's not as porous as balsa and can handle CA glue much better as well. As for the filler I used 3/16 basswood against bulkhead and false keel then added with a balsa block. Once that was dried, I "painted" the balsa surface with diluted Titebond I, this way the combination of CA and Titebond I will have plenty of grip area.
-
J.Pett, See following link for this amazing saw. It's exactly the same I got from Woodcraft local store.
-
Jpett, Cross grain sawing is not an issue with this saw, does it beautifully.
-
Thank you Bill for the test,
-
I must apologize, you are Casey and not Brian. Please forgive me.....
-
Brian, Before gluing the bulkheads and any further filing (unless it's to late) compare the bulkhead towards the plan. Just to make sure the dimensions are right from the start. Just my 2cents
- 98 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- baltic ketch
- corel
- (and 1 more)
-
Rich, a tea kettle works fine, the steam will be at 105 degree C, careful not to burn your hand or fingers. Works great as well.
-
I was working with some bulkheads and notice a difference between port and starboard side on a certain bulkhead. Some time ago I bought a profile copy gauge thinking it could come handy some day with model building. And yes, it did. I checked one side and compared it to the plans, perfect match. Now I had the correct profile and just traced it over to the wrong side. This tool is made out of metal, a little to heavy weight wise for this purpose but there is one very accurate available made in plastic, that will be on my purchase list.
-
grsjax, This is what found about your wood. Source : wikepedia Breadfruit was widely and diversely used among Pacific Islanders. Its lightweight wood (specific gravity of 0.27) is resistant to termites and shipworms, so is used as timber for structures and outrigger canoes. Considering it's lightweight, I would give it a shot. In comparison Balsa wood has a specific gravity of 0.16, (less dense) Basswood varies between 0.3-0.4 (popular for carving) Poplar has a value at 0.34 European limewood a value of 0.56 Boxwood are at 0.67, just to give you some numbers to relate to. Also the wood of yours is being used by guitar builders. Good luck
-
Cabela's has fly tying vises from 13 dollars upward.
Our Emblem ®
