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Nirvana

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Everything posted by Nirvana

  1. Matti, that is just beautiful! I am so glad to see a true Wasa master.
  2. Take a look at my topic of Japanese saw. I wrote this one back in 2013. http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/4171-japanese-saw/
  3. I like this little boat. It's a fun and great project. Thank you Chuck for creating this model!
  4. Using the Dremel idea from other builders of reducing the frames I cautiously started the project. Here I noticed the frames are very thick. There is a lot of wood to reduce. Then I thought why not use the soft head from Dremel, I cut out a slightly larger piece from regular sandpaper ( I used 320grit ), having the soft head. It became easier to sand the curves of frames. I wondered how much "meat" from the frames on the inside needed to be sanded out, here I used the caliper and set it to 3/32" which is according to the instructions and marked each frame. There is a lot to sand down.
  5. I haven't sanded down the frames nor the keel, meanwhile I did make a copy of the plans and cut out the cap rail as for a dummy. This just to get an idea how it will look like. The rap rail in the plans are correct and I can use the cut-out as a template for making the rail.
  6. Oldpaperone, glad to see you back at the building table. I also lile the usage of wooden cloth pins and wooden screws. Very genious!
  7. The solids towards the stem I found to be tricky to get leveled. First I used the Dremel (again!), then I used the fine tooth razor blade sized saw to do the rest. 10 minutes later I had it in my hand (ok, rather on my finger) This without damaging the stem piece. Btw, this is a funny little boat to build. It has it's challenges but at the same time, once beyond one point lot of things happens. I am leveling all the ribs to the plank and thinking what to do with the inner hull..... colorwise
  8. Ribs and keel will be trimmed internally once the top heads are leveled with the plank.
  9. Using the new light-weight Dremel 8050 the reducing of the head was a breeze without touching the planks. Now fine filing to get them to level for the cap rail.
  10. Cutting away the bulkhead notches was something I didn't look forward to. But using the new "type" of razor blade saw the cut is almost like laser cut. The blade itself is 1 1/2" long. In this picture it look huge.
  11. A long time has elapsed since I started the log, however today I am uploading the very latest pics, work has been done during the day. The hull was fully planked earlier this week. I had to do some mod's as I noticed some of the planks didn't attach fully to the bulkheads. All is CA glued. The bulkhead support (coffee stirrer from a famous coffee chain) was cut into parts by the new Dremel Micro 8050 The machine itself is really nice to work with, it's re-chargeable Li-On batteries charges fast and it's easy to hold (low weight) General Finishes Arm-R-Seal is the poly wipe on I am using. I didn't even bother to let it dry the slow way, I used the hair dryer. Some extra light sanding I and I should be ready for painting.
  12. Jack, that is looking so much better. I am glad you didn't give up. Enjoy your Thanksgiving, don't eat to much bird. We are having Alaskan fresh water salmon instead of the bird.
  13. Jack, It seems like you have the same issue as I did with the third plank from top, as it like to curle outwards (not sticking to the bulkhead completely), either you redo the whole plank or just do partial at the bow. Since I used CA, it was easier to cut out and replace part of it. Just take it slowly and think "each plank as a separate project".
  14. I was searching for more info regarding the longboat especially how they were painted, and came across this website containing lot of useful info. I thought this book could be very useful for many of us to get in-depth about the artillery. Enjoy, http://www.privateermedia.com/Publishing/book1.htm
  15. Sorry for intruding, but I felt I like to be part of this conversation. No, I don't have a Byrnes table saw, but it's on the "wishing list". Because not having such I have been buying strips from Jeff at HobbyMill. Since he is to close down his business there won't be any more of the high quality strips available. See where I am heading? And yes, buying ready made strips are more expensive than buying a plank and ripping it yourself. Price difference may vary depending on the material, but I did a short comparison and found the strips being about three times more costly than a plank and ripping it. Sure you will have a higher initial cost buying the Byrnes table saw, but it won't take much before it has paid itself versus buying strips. I do have the thickness sander and am very happy with it. But this is only my two cents. Ps. The Byrnes table saw can be used in other applications besides ship modelling.
  16. Augie, as mentioned before I have the Confederacy waiting, and I enjoying every little bit of your build log. Question: Do you think it would be possible to plank the deck with thicker strips and no false deck; type Bluenose? Just curious.
  17. The Sjöberg work benches are so good they are being used in the wood classes in Sweden. Remember my wood classes in the 70's, the quality is outstanding. Definitely worth the money. Plus there are many accessories available as well. Here is the link to the company. I made it sure you have it in English.
  18. Kevin, appearently you have bluenose II, probably made by AL or could be BB. If a BB, go to their website where you can access to the instructions. Good luck
  19. Poplar is also very popular material for solid hull models, many of solid hulls in museums are poplar. The finish is amazing, both for painting but also for planking. Good wood for carving. You can't go wrong with poplar. I have some waiting for a scratch built.
  20. Hmm, this apple debate has got me going .... well in two ways, I have some outside dried apple branches (got them last year) still with their bark on. Recently became friend with the owner of the local WoodCraft store. I have bought things from him before and he is now willing to help me for a low fee having my apple "cut/trimmed and planned" At the same time I am an avid BBQ cook, where apple, alder, pear and many more of the woods enhances the flavor of the meat, so what is left is going for the cooking. WIN -WIN situation ??!!
  21. Sorry for the non-editing, hope you can figure the relationship out.
  22. and finally, SWISS PEAR SYCAMORE TAMBOUTI TULIPWOOD WALNUT WILLOW YEW
  23. PADAUK PAU MARFIN PERNAMBUCO PEROBA POPLAR PURPLEHEART REDGUM SITKA SPRUCE SNAKEWOOD
  24. HORNBEAM INDONESIAN ROSEWOOD JATOBA KINGWOOD KOA MACASSAR EBONY MADRONE MANSONIA MAPLE MOPANE OSAGE ORANGE
  25. CANARY WOOD CHAKTE KOK CHECHIN CHERRY COCOBOLO CYPRESS DOGWOOD EBONY GONCALO ALVES GRANADILO HOLLY
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