Nirvana
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Everything posted by Nirvana
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Waterways being installed, again the material can't be bent in lateral way so I made them in sections. Probably wrong to the time era, but has to work with material provided unless swapped
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Decking is completed now some trim around the edges, once that is done light sanding with 340 paper.
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Oh, forgot the thing about length of deck planks. Since the kit is 1:50, and guessing a normal "real" plank may run in the length of 6 meters (about 6 yards) I cut the planks to 12cm. The kit plans shows a plank length of 7cm which should be 3.5m (about 3.5 yards) Seemed to make some sense to me.
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During the "house call" at Floyd's Shipyard I was able to catch the man in the action...... sort off In the background his lovely dog Willow but also the J-yacht Endeavour. This picture is good to give the idea of the sheer size of the yacht. Floyd in action adding planks to the bulb and first two flush with deck. The bulb planks measure 2x2mm while the regular planks are 1x4mm, that will result with a lot of sanding to get a uniformed side.
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During a "house call at the West side of the state I also had time to work on my "Harley" I have come to the stage of "decking" as in the picture the king plank is attached. To simulate the caulking I used a borrowed graphite pen. It's a tedious job doing the simulated caulking but progress is certainly on the way. And yes, I am the one doing the job ....
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Floyd, Nice progress, I took a last look at her before I left this morning, and saw additional two wet planks in place. BTW, next time you go out to the model, don't burn the bacon in the skillet.
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Matti, fantastiskt jobb! Oerhört snyggt! Amazing jobb, extremely nice! You should apply as curator at the Sjöhistoriska Museumet.
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She is a big one, looking good!
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As I am waiting for the last game of the Olympic Ice hockey I have been working of on my Harvey for a while..... and long before, ( updates has been asked for) Planking is complete and all is with 1.5mm walnut first layer..... and only layer. However, I do like the finish even without any finish. There is several more steps before any painting will happen. I tried to use minimal wood filler and where it is filled, a combo of wood-filler and dust from wood has been combined for the matching. Additional sanding is needed but I am ready to for the next step of planking.... yeah! finally!
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Floyd, my mistake, and yes the swiss pear sounds very intriguing. Would love to work the material. Boxwood as well.
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Chuck and Floyd, based on your conversation, and as an owner of the Longboat, sorry Floyd for putting you in this position, the Swiss pear does sound interesting, but knowing the characteristics of the boxwood, I might go with the original set. There is a reason you, Chuck, decided on the wood for the kit. I am looking forward building this amazing kit of Chuck.
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I can hear the hound dogs howling and sniffing already.
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When it comes to the imperial system only a handful countries in the world are using the system of today. The world of science and especially medical is using metric. Just my two cents.
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Kurt, I have used thin sheets of basswood making my own "plywood", making single layer and letting it dry before attaching next layer. Regular wood glue works just fine. Thin layer of glue even all over on each piece, let it dry for a few minutes so it's still tacky without getting glue on your finger. Apply the two pieces and make sure you have even pressure all over. Let sit for at least 24 hours before next layer.
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Matti, Very impressive! You should talk to the curators at the museum, and let them know but also show them pictures of your build. You may be able to get a little more "specific and private tour". Remembering back in the 70's when you were allowed to be onboard Wasa, walking on the true lower decks. But that's a long time ago.
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Nigel, it certainly is rock hard, wish it came with Obeche especially for the curve around the stern. But as this one still awaits to be built I have plenty of time changing the planking material.
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Yes and hmm, my Billings kit of Danmark (limited version) is supposed to use ramin for hull planking. That's at least to their material list. According to a site handling wood there are 30+ species of this wood, many of them are "farm raised".
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Michael, a warm Welcome onboard MSW 2, Looking forward of your progress of "Wappen" This kit today of yours is listed at USD 1450.00 through ageofsail, that with updated laser cut parts. Seahawk fan? Just wondering because of your "name"
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Floyd, you are way ahead of me, besides if I am to do a second layer I am way behind. I found America easier to plank with walnut due to her lines.
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Floyd my friend. That second planking of yours looks really nice, I am still debating for single or double. The single (1.5mm walnut) is tough as the single strip wants to another way than the profile of the hull. Looking good!
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Late night update, The 1.5 mm single layer walnut is progressing. I am planking in "four bulkhead sections" The grain is beautiful so I am still not sure whether to varnish or paint the hull.. Maybe half and half, underneath waterline painted and above varnished.
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Puckotred, First of all, a warm welcome to MSW, I tried to acquire this model when it was available from "Acrossthepond", I am very glad to see this kit being done and will follow the progress intently. My father built SS Mariefred long time ago. Turned out beautiful, however that kit has a plastic hull.
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Mark, No motorcycle but named after one of my dogs. Hope you have your own popcorn as I ran out of them.
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Secondly, buy your own curling iron, they are not expensive and comes with different diameters. I have got two for less than 30 dollars which I can regulate the heat on. The latest style but much more expensive is the steaming curling iron.
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Curling irons works with 1.5mm thick walnut strips, the strips needs to be soaked before applying heat. Some care and not overheat has worked fine for me.
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