Nirvana

Thank you.  I have watched every one of the videos and I do not have the tools as you do, yet I have gleaned a enormous amount of knowledge from your willingness to share with us your skills.  I am a fan and look forward to more of your work.  I have the Bluejacket kit and much of what you have taught will be used.
Thank you
Rick😎

I found my original drawing of the Argus and it shows side badges. So now I shall try to create some nice ones and ditch the junk from this kit.

Thanks, Zach. I do all my models that way because I love the natural wood.

I was told The Argus did not have a figurehead on the bowsprit, as far as the side badges, The Argus probably had them since I have a picture of a sister Brig that show side badges. If I can't make nice ones, I will leave them off.
Rich

Doing some work on the cockpit area. I´ve also sprayed the struts for the upper wing. But the paint "ran" so I had to soak them in solvent to clean it off and spray them again. 

That's a wonderful picture of Daria and holding the model.

Rich - Didn't you say the Argus did not have side badges? (yes I know I am too lazy to look thru your log). On my Syren I have decided to leave them off. They only detract from a very nice model. 
 
PS Thanks to you. I have ordered the book.

Yea, Jesse,
I'll try to design my own version but this is a lot of effort for just a small payback. This kit should have charged a little more and provided better quality stuff. All my other kits came with excellent extras that didn't require making my own stuff. The cleats are another example. 

Those things supplied in the kit are horrible. I doctored mine up and used them but every time I look at them I am embarrassed.
 
Jesse

Because the bulkheads are so far outta whack, the first plank could not follow correctly. That is now causing me to ever so slightly push up on the plank being installed. See the gap? At this rate I'm going to have a problem. I can either continue and hope the garboard plank fills it on, or I can let the plank lay naturally and fill the gap in with wood filler. Which would you do?
 
Also, I have a FEW planks staggered but towards the bow there's not much staggering.

Thanks for looking in Jon. Is the bluenose II using the same hull design?

Brian
 
great to see you building this great boat
 
i just got to sail on Bluenose ll in Lunenburg.   amazing ride in 20 knot breeze
 
enjoy your build i look forward to following along
 
cheers
jon 

Keith,
 
 

 
Pawel

Wow, fine sail making Keith,
 
Nils

Nice masking solution, Maury!

Changed task for a while...Scuppers have been drilled and reamed to 3 - 4" diameter.  I'm going to use grey paint to simulate metal linings so I borrowed a 1/8" hole punch from an associate who does "scrapbooking" and used it on some tamiya tape put on some wax paper.

I then sliced of sections and covered the scupper holes. 

A couple of coats of grey later I have the 6" (1/8" at scale) flanged scupper linings.

Maury
 

Wow !
 
Nils

amazing!!  
 

Thank you Kees and Nils.
 
I spent a bit of time hoisting the staysail. I think I may have to invest in some rigging tools. Suggestions would be most welcome.
 
I want to set the sails close hauled on a port tack. The natural action of the sheets and blocks is to hold the booms aligned fore and aft on the centre line. To hold the booms to starboard I need to rig preventers which is a bit unusual for this point of sail. I will console myself by assuming the helmsman has has too much grog and the crew as a result are nervous about the possibility of an unintended pirouette. This is not as far fetched as it sounds, a very long night in the Wide Mouthed Frog and a next day hangover while plugging the tide through the Sound of Luing produced just such an event.
 
Setting the sail was a slow process, primarily because I had to make a few more blocks as well as finishing off some of the foredeck detail. Here are a few photos:-

 
 
 

Oh heaven!
I just figured out the search engine......
Once you have entered the "search word" and clicked search,
down below you will have various option of how you search can and will be used.
I tried that with Bluenose and instead of having more than 1000's of answers I had some 60+ all related to Bluenose build logs.

Perfect, thanks for those ideas as my Serv-o-matic should be arriving any day.

Another quick update....I finished putting in the sheer clamps and bilge clamps.  I have done more fairing of the hull, especially the port side, but have a bit more to do.  A couple of the frames have some low spots that I need to shim a bit (e.g. in the first photo, you can see that the second to last frame on the starboard side is not wide enough).  I also have a bit more trimming and tweaking of some of the timber heads.  And I am sure I have a bit more accidentally breaking off and gluing back on some of the timber heads as well.  The carved bow piece is pretty rough....I'll have some repairing and filling to do there.
 
According to my log, I am up to about 63 hours of work on this project.
 

Been a while since I posted.  Progress has been very slow, mostly due to not finding much time to spend on this kit.  I have finished carving the bow and stern/transom pieces and affixed them to the model.  I put a temporary lengthwise stringer on either side on the outside of the frames, attached to about every third or fourth frame, to keep things somewhat aligned, then began working on the permanent ones on the inside of the frames. 
 
Here is the mostly complete stern piece.  I think I did a bit more carving after this, but it is pretty close here.  Compare to the rough shape supplied in the kit shown above.  I did deviate a bit from the kit here.....I cut a carefully shaped, symmetrical transom piece from 1/16th inch thick basswood and attached that to the bottom of the carved stern piece, rather than trying to get the shape just by carving it.  Can't really see it on this picture though.
 
And here it is attached to the keel and last frame:

 
And finally, this picture shows the keelson (across the bottom of the frames) and the starboard sheer clamp being clamped on.  The sheer clamp is made of two pieces...the lower one was supposed to go all the way to the stern but it was difficult to twist in place and seemed a bit pointless so I ended it on the fourth to last frame.  I still need to do the second piece of the sheer clamp on the port side, then there are two "bilge clamps" to be put in, one on each side, half way between the keelson and the sheer clamp.  Once I have those on, the frame should be more solid and I will likely do a bit more fairing of the outside of the frame, as well as trimming the tops of some of the frames to make sure every thing is level (i.e. some of the tops of the frames stick up slightly from the top edge of the sheer clamp), and the tops of the timberheads are not all perfectly even.  Then it is on to making the deck beams.

Yep, I made the same attachment, using another brass tube with a tight fit into the tube on the serving machine. The other mod I did was add a handle to the crank: