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AON

NRG Member
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Everything posted by AON

  1. Wish I could offer some advice about stenciling but I suppose that will be one more thing I'm about to learn.
  2. The late 1700's saw a lot of changes, like the woolding ropes/hoops being replaced with iron hoops, various developments in the dolphin striker. Your rudder bolt heads look wonderful... thanks go to John Cairns of our local club for having shared this method with us. Those plastic build guys can do amazing things!
  3. I recently had to do the same thing for my 3D program. Why can't they leave well enough alone?
  4. Poplar, hmm. I used it as contrast for the floor boards and double bladed paddle of my kayak.
  5. Sorry to hijack this build but I've one question. Why does a raft adhere when a brim or just the object doesn't?
  6. I am not sure how your printer feeds but I have the same issue. I level the bed 3 times after it has been allowed to warm up and soak at temperature and noticed no matter what I do the centre is perfect and the corners are tight or the corners are perfect and the centre is loose (concaved glass?). And I clean it before every use. I tried printing off centre. Tried a brim. The only thing that consistantly works for me is a raft. Also, occassionally I need to disassemble the feeder and clean the gear teeth as it gets clogged with filament and then starts skipping.
  7. I am not sure why, as I can see 5 people liked the last post, but I cannot open the link I get a "cannot find" message.
  8. I think the unusual pic without the lug dipped is because the cox'n has no crew to do it and he cannot leave the tiller unattended.
  9. One afternoon of searching revealed only one item with any detail. Not really a primary source as it is a model of masts and yards on a display board, dated as being displayed at an exhibition in 1938. If you zoom in on any of the three tops you can see the bar with the slotted holes through it. There is no swivel gun chock though. https://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/68788.html I'll keep looking.
  10. When I was a teen (1969-70) the lug rigged boats were set with a rope/bullseye type fitting that dropped onto a traveller hook that was raised up and down on the mast. Just a short portion protruded forward of the mast. When we tacked it was one fellows job to dip the lug to the other side of the mast. I'll see if I have any photos. I should have mentioned the traveller was a leather covered metal hoop with a hook. A halyard was used to raise/lower it. update: photos I have are too far away, or the traveller is too high (out of frame). sorry.
  11. Notes to myself FACT: So the most convincing argument against a copper plate is the galvanic (corrosion) reaction that would occur between the iron deadeye strap in contact with the copper. OPINION: In Mr. Longridge's Anatomy of Nelson's Ships book: he may have suggested copper but failed to mentioned it would be blackened to simulate iron. OPINION: In Mr. Lees' Masting and Rigging book: The iron plate was not individual pads between the stiffening battens, but was one long plate running under the stiffening battens in the early version of the top construction (1745) , and over top in later version (1794) of top construction. Worth noting: It was not shown in the 36 gun version, but then they are shown again in figures for 1802-1815 and 1815-1833 which are not attributed to any specific size of ship. I will continue my search for any definitive primary source. I am also intrigued by the swivel gun chocks and have been looking into those.
  12. so people can see what I'm looking at My main mast top... below is The Anatomy of Nelson's Ships, pg 173, fig 103... below is The Masting and Rigging of English Ships of War, pg 23...
  13. What slicer program are you using? Does it allow you to make adjustments to the settings? Not suggesting you should since everything is printing tickedy-boo right now, without errors (knock on wood)... just curious.
  14. I believe the new RN aircraft carrier HMS Queen Elizabeth (1) was built that way also.
  15. I can imagine the satisfaction of realising the fit while assembling these pieces. Can you please hurry up so I can see the whole thing! 😇 😁
  16. But are they truly in balance? I've seen shrouds on cutters slack slightly on the leeside so can imagine deadeyes wearing a pocket in a wooden filler piece. The soft brass plate seems a good bearing or wear surface. Why would one source specify them in the larger ships and another suggest something was there? I wonder about these things 🤔
  17. Thank you Druxey Yes that is correct. Yet The Anatomy of Nelson's Ships page 173, Figure 103 shows it as a copper deadeye plate with the slots for the deadeye through it. The write up (2nd paragraph from the bottom) reads as if it is two long plates at one per side. The Masting and Rigging of English Ships of War on page 23 shows for a 1st rate, 1745, a darkened "A" - "plate for the futtock shroud". The accompanying figure, 1794, 36 gun ship, shows no plate. Page 24, 1802 to 1815, no ship specified, shows "A" - "plate for the futtock shroud". and the accompanying figure for 1815 to 1833 shows "J" - "plate for the futtock shroud". There is no written description for it. Might I also point out Steels plate 2 shows 13 woolding hoops for the main mast, whereas plate 3 shows only 10 for the exact same mast. The written description calls up 6 bolts to connect the two halves of the main mast cap but the image on plate 2 shows 8 It is difficult to find sources that agree with each other, or even themselves! I am beginning to think I may need to "wing it".
  18. I am building a British 3rd rate MOW, launch date 1786, and am trying to represent her as launched. At this point I am working on my main mast top (platform) and am looking at the small details. I am confused by the fact many sources do not agree. Even Steels reads one thing, then presents images that do not agree with the written description or the other view! The Anatomy of Nelsons Ships does likewise. Can anyone tell me if there were in fact 1) individual copper plates, or 2) one long plate per side, or 3) no plates on the top at the slotted holes for the deadeye shrouds? Thank you. Alan
  19. If there is a need to press the softened parts together to bond does this deform the edge creating a bulge that needs to be trimmed back? Thank you for this info as it will be very helpful to me.
  20. Can anyone tell me if there were in fact 1) individual copper plates, or 2) one long plate per side, or 3) no plates on the top at the slotted holes for the deadeye shrouds?
  21. Looking very impressive. How well do the white couplers fit? Have you tested the glue to a sample of the PLA?
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