AON
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Everything posted by AON
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Very nice prints! BZ I see the section is a good thickness, I imagined thinner and thought you might have a problem. Should be easy to glue the pieces but I would test your plastic glue on some scrap if you've not used it on PLA before as it might melt the part. That was my experience. I ended up using a 2 part epoxy. I found the PLA a pain to finish (sand smooth). They say a wet sand paper should be used. Have you done this before? Can't wait to see this come together.- 321 replies
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I am very interested in your Corvette build. May I ask.... Are you using PLA material in this printer. What size nozzle will you be using? How thick is the hull? I am a novice 3D printer. Using an JG Aurora A5 3D printer with a full set of nozzles. I tried printing 1:64 scale 18th century gun barrels with black PLA filament, and gun carriages with PLA/Wood filament. The barrels were impossible but the carriages were a success. I had a friend from our local club print my barrels in his liquid resin printer. I had success with a 1:12 scale gun barrel. Alan
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Below is a photo of the holes and slots done. The fore part of the deck is not quite as pretty as I had hoped for as I moved two battens and alcohol swabbing and scraping to remove the glue residue didn't quite clean up as nicely as I had imagined it would. I'll get the aft railing done next and attempt a repair up forward.
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Yes. I read that in TFFM and after rethinking drilled 23 holes.
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Main mast platform shroud deadeye slots. As no sources seem to agree and having chewed this over for days, and looking at it logically, I've made a decision. Four. Exactly what Steels tables read. I looked at the distance the deadeyes were spaced between, then divided this by 3, 4 and 5 to get the possible interval distance for 4, 5 and 6 deadeyes. I then subtracted the size of the deadeye to get the physical gap dimension between deadeyes. Thought about how much space a sailor might need to climb up. Took my pencil template and penciled in the location of 4, 5 and 6 deadeyes. How did they relate to the location of my stiffening battens. Considered how a greater number of shrouds would reduce the footing clearance at the dead end of the shrouds. This last bit was brought to my attention by a member of our local club as I reviewed my thought process with him. Six was too much. Five was a possibility. Four ticked all the boxes. Now I need to figure out the number of holes for the crowsfeet. I've seen 20 and 18 for this platform... and just now 30! I've decided on 18 simply because when laid out the spacing works and the look of it is pleasing. I'll be drilling these holes and making my stanchions now.
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I did that when I saw the word from TFFM 😮 😉
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Seen this word in the TFFM. We called it a cut splice. I'd also noted in Steels what the "valley" between twisted strands was called. I'm too much of a gentleman (in my own mind) to repeat the word in public or on a forum. Those crazy sailors.
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I see on the original rigging warrant for HMS Monarch (1765), a 3rd rate, 74 guns, main top mast had 6 pairs of shrouds and 12 dead eyes (both hand written in the columns).
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Thank you Druxey. I'm guessing it is four pair... but then wonder why Vanguard kit has six? This may never have an answer. I should double check museum models on line just to feel better about it all.
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I am presently trying to determine the number of shroud slots in a 3rd rate main mast platform. Steels table reads 4 pair but 12 deadeyes. All details below that support 4 pair. Were the other 4 deadeyes spares? Vanguard models show 6 pair. Bellona (the book) has 5 pair. Taking a break.
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To be more specific TFFM section 15 shows concave as are Greg's accompanying 3D images. Historic ship models page 223 show the same. TAONS (HMS Victory) page 174 shows tapered. Did Mr Longridge simplify it? I'll chew on it a bit. Would David and Greg lead me off course? I think not.
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Some references showed scooped while others seemed to be a simple taper. Presently they are tapered.
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Got a little bit more done to the platform. I've a couple more pieces and some holes to add before this small part can be called done. (it is only dry fitted to the trees to see how she looks in place)
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Took the TREES apart to shape them then reassembled. Removed the BIBS, remade and refitted them. TREES installed and battens installed. Made the TOP (platform) that sits on the trees. Three layers of 1/32" glued cross grain. Planks laid out and scored with a knife, highlighted the joint with a pencil, then sanded. Underside scored to show the different overlap. More work to be done to the TOP before it is fitted permanently.
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I understand what you are saying about the hoops. It was an effort to try to keep them straight and level and evenly spaced... I am not saying I was successful. I thought if it should look like kaka I paint the space between the hoops (under the rope) as camouflage. Worst case... off it comes. I guess I should wrap some twine between a couple and see the "damage" before I get further ahead of myself! Tapers... yes. Angle... very slight. Thank you.
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Been busy putting things on, taking them off, putting them back on... normal stuff. Removed the bibs, added the wooden hoops for the woodling ropes, added the metal hoops above the stops, made the cross/trestle tree assembly, put the bibs back on. I sanded the wooden hoops so they are presentable. Made my bolsters but have not added them to the tree assembly as yet. Need to add other metal hoops, battens, and build the tree platform.
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Looking darned good. If it were any of the sea cadets I knew the sweeps would be all wonkey! Still waiting to see how the rudder yoke connects to the tiller. I know how it worked on the whalers but they had a mizzen mast to pivot on.
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Thank you Druxey. We learn by our mistakes. Easily remedied...but I will have a Trestle Tree made to guide me when I correct this.
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Some update pics. I've yet to add the Woolding Hoops and the eight Battens above the stops.
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The sweeps on the whalers and cutters I am familiar with were exactly that and very light, made of ash.
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