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Everything posted by alde
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Yes, the standard tool holders that go on the operator side are about 1/4" shorter so they cut from the top. The rear mount is designed to cut from the bottom and the cut off tool is put upside down.
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Yes, it's the rear mount tool holder. I got it because I thought it might be better if I make several parts like cannon barrels. I have the thinner table on the way and it should solve the problem. Thanks again for all the help. I will post back when I get the new part and have it up and running. Then I have the fun of learning how to use it. Al D.
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Thank you. This is just the information I was looking for. Yours is a full 0.25" thinner. I must have the wrong part on my lathe. I sure hope the part I get from Sherline works. Thanks again for all the help.
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Mark, I had the slide off and could not find a part number. I went ahead and ordered the slide that should be correct for my lathe directly from Sherline. It was $35 but it will be well worth it if it works right.
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Yes, and after looking at it and comparing it to pictures of other Sherline lathes and a drawing with dimensions I found on the company site it looks like my cross slide it too thick by 0.25". It was bought used. I am thinking somebody switched the slide with one from a mill or something.
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It's been a while since I have been at the work bench or the computer but I have made a bit of progress on the Launch. I have started the rigging and got a new toy. I got this serving machine from one of sponsors, Domanoff's Workshop. I know there is very little rigging on this boat to justify a serving machine but what a great tool it is. Very well made and works like a champ. I hope to get the rigging done in the next few days and move on to the other details. Al D.
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I just got what I thought was a good deal on a used Sherline 4000 Lathe. It runs great and seems nice and tight but there is one problem. The distance from the top of the cross slide to the center of the chuck should be .94". Mine measures .69". I noticed there was something wrong when I could not get a tool close to the center of the work and I could not chuck up a 1.5" diameter aluminum rod over the cross slide. My cross slide is .88" thick. Can somebody please measure the thickness of their Sherline lathe cross slide for me? Here is a picture of mine with a brand new rear mount cut off tool that goes over a piece mounted in the chuck. Thanks for any help, Al
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I am looking forward to seeing the "faux-trenails" progress but I thought we might see the puffer fish effect. Good luck with the move. It's always a stressful thing to do. Every time I have moved I said never again.
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Floyd, You might look into the 2 part resin they use for fiberglass. It sands much better than epoxy and can be thinned to a watery consistancy with acetone and brushed on. I did this for an RC tugboat hull then used red Bondo auto body filler to even up any spots. It comes in a tube and sands better than any else I have tried. Al D.
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Oh, the floor looks fabulous. Your distressed look is working very well.
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I haven't posted to my log for quite a while because I have not had much time to do any work on the Launch but I did manage to make the sails and taper the spars. The instructions show both sewn sails and faked lines with a pencil. I opted to go with the simple method and it turned out ok. The lines are a bit darker then I would have liked but I can live with it. I still have to put the reef points on the sails and the cleats on the spars. I also did the edges of the sails with fray stop. I hope to have them rigged over the weekend but we'll see.
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The pumps along with everything else look fantastic Bob. It's been a great learning expierience following your log. Al D.
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Draftsight Question
alde replied to alde's topic in CAD and 3D Modelling/Drafting Plans with Software
Bob, I don't know why I didn't try the shift key. Maybe because It was midnight after a long day. I bought the boxed program for less than $40 and it works fantastic. For what I need it's as good as AutoCAD. Now I need to get a big screen for my tired eyes. For my first project with it I am laying out a Constitution 2 deck battle station section with 2 long guns on the main deck and 1 carronade on the spar deck. It will use the gun kits from Model Expo. Thank you for your help. Al -
I have been using AutoCAD at work for years but needed something for my modeling at home so I got a copy of Draftsight. I have to say that I love the program. It is very much like AutoCAD and pretty easy for me to figure out. I am at a loss on one thing though. When I first loaded the program I was able to select several items such as erasing more than 1 object at a time. Now when I select a second object the first one is un-selected. The same goes for trimming. I can't trim a circle tangent between 2 lines. Also when I try to draw a curve it only lets me select 3 points. I'm pretty sure I messed something up in the settings but for the life of me I can't figure it out. Any help would be very much appreciated. Al D.
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Patrick, Just to add more information into the pile here are 2 drawings I came accross from the National Archives Online Resources. They are outboard profile and sail plans drawn in 1817 and is a very high resolution images. They clearly shows no gunports. There are also some other interesting details. If nothing else they are cool period drawings of the ship in high resolution. http://media.nara.gov/social-media/gallery/19-4-43-2011-001.pdf http://media.nara.gov/cartographic/gallery/RG_19_Dash_108_12_2.PDF Al D.
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That should keep you busy for a while. Looking forward to the results.
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Thank you for taking the time to post so much detail on your build log. I will refer to it when I start my AVS. It will be my second build.
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The book The Sailing Frigate: A History in Ship Models by Robert Gardiner shows models of several frigates (British) of that period with no ports. I understand the Admiralty models did not have them to better show the ship design but the book also shows several fully rigged ships with no ports. If this book shows the actual configuration it looks like the ships with an open waist tended to have no ports. This book is a great reference with really nice photos of period models. Just what you need is another reference to help cloud the issue.
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Thanks Bindy, I have been having a great time building my first kit and am looking forward to the next one. I am not as ambitious as you with the Surprise though. I am going for something a bit simpler for my first rigged ship. I am doing Model Shipways Armed Virginia Sloop next. Chucks parts are fantastic. I got some of his rigging blocks and rope too. It's much better that kit parts. Al D.
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