bear Posted March 21, 2015 #1 Posted March 21, 2015 Ahoy Mates Other than wood,what do you use for treenailing? How do you use it? And where do you get your supply of it? I have used brass,plastic and nylon. For brass either I cut it before putting into drilled holes,or snip it off after. Using either CA or Titebond for glue. And pretty much the same for plastic. Has anyone used fishing monoflilament line? I see where it comes in various diameters and colors. And I have used Titebond and Elmers glue for filling treenail noles. Have colored the glue with acrylic paint mixed in to simulate wood and tar colors. Whats have you come up with for this labor intensive work? Keith IgorSky 1
CaptainSteve Posted March 21, 2015 #2 Posted March 21, 2015 Someone suggested using the bristles from a broom in the Kit-Basher's forum ... CharlieZardoz and IgorSky 2 CaptainSteve Current Build: HM Granado Bomb Vessel (Caldercraft) My BathTub: Queen Anne Barge (Syren Ship Models) Log: Queen Anne Barge (an build log) Bounty Launch (Model Shipways) Log: Bounty Launch by CaptainSteve Apostol Felipe (OcCre) HMS Victory (Constructo) Check It Out: The Kit-Basher's Guide to The Galaxy Website: The Life & Boats of CaptainSteve
mtaylor Posted March 21, 2015 #3 Posted March 21, 2015 EdT and others use the monofilament for bolts and nails. See his Naiad log and Young Armerica log. Mark "The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me Current Build: Past Builds: La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD Triton Cross-Section NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64 Non-Ship Model: On hold, maybe forever: CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)
hornet Posted March 21, 2015 #4 Posted March 21, 2015 (edited) Interesting thread. Whatever you use - other than some sort of filler material - would need to be able to be pulled through a drawplate such as the one produced by Jim Byrnes, otherwise scale would become an issue. I prefer to stick with bamboo myself. Edited March 21, 2015 by hornet Hornet Current Build: - HMS Adder - Vanguard Models. Completed Ship Builds: OcCre - Shackleton’s Endurance (in gallery) Caldercraft - HM Bark Endeavour (in gallery) Caldercraft - HMAV Bounty (in Gallery) Caldercraft - HM Brig Supply (In Gallery) Aeropiccola - Golden Hind - Constitution Clipper Seawitch (Scientific) Corel - Victory Modeller's Shipyard - A Schooner of Port Jackson - In Gallery - Brig `Perseverance' - In Gallery - Cutter `Mermaid'- In Gallery - Sirius Longboat (bashed) - In Gallery - Sloop Norfolk - In Gallery Completed Cannon: - French 18th Century Naval Cannon - Napoleonic 12 pound field piece - English 18th Century Carronade Non Ship Builds - Sopwith Camel - Artesania Latina - Fokker DR1 - Artesania Latina
jwvolz Posted March 21, 2015 #5 Posted March 21, 2015 Wood filler. Very easy method. I used a Minwax product on my current build. Joe Volz Current build: Model Shipways "Benjamin W. Latham" Completed builds on MSW: Caldercraft HMS "Cruizer" Caldercraft HMBV "Granado" Model Shipways "Prince De Neufchatel"
S.Coleman Posted June 24, 2015 #6 Posted June 24, 2015 Some use a hypodermic needle and simply push into the wood leaving little round impresions. Regards, Scott Current build: 1:75 Friesland, Mamoli Completed builds: 1:64 Rattlesnake, Mamoli - 1:64 HMS Bounty, Mamoli - 1:54 Adventure, Amati - 1:80 King of the Mississippi, AL 1:64 Blue Shadow, Mamoli - 1:64 Leida Dutch pleasure boat, Corel - 1:60 HMS President Mantra, Sergal Awaiting construction: 1:89 Hermione La Fayette AL - 1:48 Perserverance, Modelers shipyard
hornet Posted June 24, 2015 #7 Posted June 24, 2015 Spyglass. It is not always the case that the treenails are invisible. Check out the photo I took on board the Endeavour Replica and posted on another treenailing thread a while ago. They are quite visible in this case. http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/8317-to-treenail-or-not-to-treenail/ Canute 1 Hornet Current Build: - HMS Adder - Vanguard Models. Completed Ship Builds: OcCre - Shackleton’s Endurance (in gallery) Caldercraft - HM Bark Endeavour (in gallery) Caldercraft - HMAV Bounty (in Gallery) Caldercraft - HM Brig Supply (In Gallery) Aeropiccola - Golden Hind - Constitution Clipper Seawitch (Scientific) Corel - Victory Modeller's Shipyard - A Schooner of Port Jackson - In Gallery - Brig `Perseverance' - In Gallery - Cutter `Mermaid'- In Gallery - Sirius Longboat (bashed) - In Gallery - Sloop Norfolk - In Gallery Completed Cannon: - French 18th Century Naval Cannon - Napoleonic 12 pound field piece - English 18th Century Carronade Non Ship Builds - Sopwith Camel - Artesania Latina - Fokker DR1 - Artesania Latina
Maury S Posted June 25, 2015 #8 Posted June 25, 2015 For simulated treenails, I use colored wood putty. Seal the planks first, drill the holes then rub in some putty and wipe clean. The putty provides no strength and takes much less time than drawing bamboo nails (which I still use where strength is required). Choose your color to make them as subtle as you like. Maury Canute 1 Current diversion: Anchor Hoy c 1815 - 1825 1:48 scale Recent Builds: Fair American: 18th C. Longboat: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/2284-longboat-18th-c-by-maury-modelshipways-by-chuck/ Echo Cross Section: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/513-echo-cross-section-by-maury/ Emma C. Berry http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/gallery/album/203-emma-c-berry-132-pof-by-maury/
Modeler12 Posted June 26, 2015 #9 Posted June 26, 2015 Brass wire, installed into a pre-drilled hole with a slight touch of CA, sanded and then quickly blackened works for me. The deck below needs to be stained and then some polywipe. The stove and stanchions are free to be moved at this point. Canute and mtaylor 2 Jay Current build Cross Section USS Constitution http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/10120-cross-section-forward-area-of-the-uss-constitution/ Finished USS Constitution: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/103-uss-constitution-by-modeler12/ 'A picture is worth a . . . . .' More is better . . . .
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