HMS Warspite by Old Collingwood - FINISHED - Academy - 1/350 scale - PLASTIC

[popeye the sailor]

you could also use testor's in the green tube.   the testor's brown tube is the same stuff.......it's used when a gas engine is involved.

 

 

I know what you meant     I've never used P.E. either.....it will be interesting when I do.  keep going......it will get easier.......bet on it! 

Edited June 2, 2015 by popeye the sailor

[Old Collingwood]

Hi folks - just a quick note to say that i have not deserted my cause,  just another passion of mine called me away from the build bench for a few days, i will have my mojo back and continue where i left off - with the pe work on the mid deck section around the 4inch guns, i left this stage with the armour plate pe placed in situ,  awaiting a coat of paint prior to me fitting the paper metal deck  area around/underneath the 4inch gun mountings.

 

OC

[Old Collingwood]

'persevere' - you were only off by two letters. 

 

synonyms: persist, continue, carry on, go on, keep on, keep going, struggle on, hammer away, be persistent, be determined, see/follow something through, keep at it, press on/ahead, not take no for an answer, be tenacious, stand one's ground, stand fast/firm, hold on, go the distance, stay the course, plod on, stop at nothing, leave no stone unturned;

 

Sounds like the right word!

 

I'm watching your progress on the P.E. intently; I've never used it before, but my next kit project relies on it for a complete model (as opposed to some kits where it is an optional improvement). The base kit is resin, through, instead of polystyrene. So I think nearly everything will need to use either epoxy or CA glue.

P E  with me is a learning curve requiring a patient attitude and a lot small steps with breaks in between, i have also realized that this can not be done without working underneath a magnifiyer or opto visors, and i am learning as i go along and cleaning up my work again under magnification, as i finnish each stage.

 

OC

[Old Collingwood]

Hi folks,  a quick update,  i purchased a rattle can of a hull red color today and after a bit of prep work by some wire wool, and brushing it down, i set about spraying the bottom hull, i found this quite easy although i was holding my breath a bit through nerves incase i made a mess off it,  but it has turned out ok and much better than i could have hand painted it.

 

 

OC.

[kpnuts]

Glad you got it sorted I was going to suggest doing it as a waterline model. PE is really frustrating stuff but the difference it makes is phenomenal, I hate the stuff with a vengeance but find I am nearly always inexorably drawn to using it, you do know it was invented by a group of optometrists to boost spectacle sales don't you.

[Old Collingwood]

Here are a few pics of the painted bottom hull, please excuse the color the flash has bleached the red somewhat and given it an orange look, the finnish is smooth and i am very pleased with it,  i will have to flat it down abit as the finnish at the moment is gloss.

 

OC.

[popeye the sailor]

now......THAT's RED!!!!        I agree.......when it cures fully,  it will lose some of the sheen.  it's good to see your still going on with it.....looks good!

[Old Collingwood]

now......THAT's RED!!!!        I agree.......when it cures fully,  it will lose some of the sheen.  it's good to see your still going on with it.....looks good!

 

 

Thanks mate, it certainly has sprayed on as a gloss red, but no worries as it will be easy enough to apply a matt sealer when i am finished with the hull.

 

OC.

[Old Collingwood]

Just another quick update, if they get any smaller i will need to post them on postage stamps

I have marked the boot line by the old method of - working out the scale width - i have gone with RN British ships of the time,  they where 6 feet wide, i then converted this to 1/350 scale and marked a dot on the hull, then i made a jiggy jig type device that i would mount a pencil on, a suitable block of wood came to hand and my pencil was led kicking and shaouting, and then taped down onto the block    

I then ran the pencil along the hull while the hull was sat on a flat table, this gave me a good water line boot line, that will be taped ready for some black paint that will be sparayed on(now i am becoming the spray champ of the world - after one go)

 

Well thats a few more words than i have put of late, oh yeah just remebered - dont worry i freed the pencil from the block, gave it a stiff J D and set it to sleep

 

OC

[Old Collingwood]

Another update folks, not quite a popcorn and coke or J D moment but still a step forward

 

I purchased the black boot line spray, and this afternoon i masked the lower section with firstly a few thin strips, then a few slightly wider till i had covered the whole bottom area, then i took the funny looking thing outside and sprayed the black paint along the gap.

 

It went quite well and i am waiting and waiting till i can take the tape off to have a nose

 

OC.

 

 

[Old Collingwood]

Right then - i took the tape off the boot line :o slowly slowly   and apart from a bit of leakage this is the result........

 

OC

[Old Collingwood]

Next plan of action folks with my little saga will be to do some camo on the hull sides   this will be done by hand as i have the acurate colors ready to be applied by my brushes,  i will give the black boot line a few days to harden then this will be masked again, before i mask off the different camo lines ready for my first coat,   because the area for each coat is smaller - i should be able to get a better level of smooth paint on, than my horrific attempt at hand painting the hull bottom .

The difference in my attitude now ia a lot more posetive and i feel a hop in my step with the build agin

 

OC.

[popeye the sailor]

well......that's good to hear!  nice when things go your way        there's a few bleeds.......but no matter,  your going to paint there anyway   well done

[Old Collingwood]

well......that's good to hear!  nice when things go your way        there's a few bleeds.......but no matter,  your going to paint there anyway   well done

Thank you so much my friend, and congatulations on your anniversary

 

OC

[Old Collingwood]

More progress folks - i  sorted out a few leaks from the masking then i masked out the first stage of hull camo, i have started on the lighter og the grey colors and masked off the hull as needed.

 

Here is a few pics including one of the paints i am using for the corect colors...

 

OC.

[Old Collingwood]

After letting the first atage of the two color camo set over night,  i removed the tape and the edges where not bad   just a little bit of an edge to the tape seam but i guess i will be able to smooth this down after both colors are applied, anyway i continued with the masking for the second color by sitting this ontop of the first color, and with the aid of a small soft brush i lay the second coat down.

I did this coat without to much fuss and the paint was settling well with the drying aid of a hairdryer from Mrs OC

 

So here is a pic to show where i am at tonight.

 

OC

 

[Old Collingwood]

Mrs OC said i need a "Shed in the Shape of a Ship" to build my boats :D

Try saying that when you are Brahms and List

 

 

OC

Edited June 28, 2015 by Old Collingwood

[Old Collingwood]

Hi folks - just popping in to say I am still about just had to put the warspite to bed for a bit as I am getting over a hernia and a broken ankle, when I get some energy and my mojo back I will try to get at the table and have another go.....

 

C.

[Old Collingwood]

I Will be getting back to her in the next few days as I have bags of goodies like turned brass gun barrels and all the small AA sets, not to mention a few Pontos bits including the wood deck,        one thing that I will have to get my head around - is how I can smooth out the masking line on the hull between the two grey colours as the masking and painting by hand has left a ridge that you can feel with your hand, I want o do this but I am fearful of rubbing away some of the paint if I try to smooth the line between the colures to hard.

 

Any tips folks??

 

OC

[RGL]

What mask are you using? The Tamiya one works very well, normal tape is rubbish.

[Old Collingwood]

Hi greg,   its that general low tack blue tape you can get from most stores, it masks very well and leaves no residue and very little creeping, what I think happened was - as I am hand painting in stages along the upper hull, and building the colour layers up in thin layers  the paint has gathered against the tap making a slight ridge.

I do not have a sprayer you see yet the Admiralty Paints I have I have to apply thinned down as they suggest and apply by brush,  the coverage is good with no brush marks and a nice even application, just these ridges where the paint meets the tape to spoil it a bit.

 

 

OC

[Old Collingwood]

Its like decorators low tack tape - the type you can tear easy, I am sure its not the tape - more a combination of my technique and brush painting, in several thin layers that have just settled against the tape edge causing a slight ridge.

 

OC

[RGL]

I tried to use it and I got the same spillage (it's crap for house painting too!), try the Tamiya though as I think the glue is on finer or better coverage. Nice kit tho, I have the Emden to go then maybe I'll go large with the Dreadnought, there's something about the old girls that appeal to me.

[Old Collingwood]

Hi folks,   I have just brought the Airfix 1 350 scale HMS Trafalger Sub that I will start building along side my Warspite, the question is - should I show my progress with the sub in my Warspite build or start a fresh one for the sub?

 

OC.

[Old Collingwood]

Just bean doing a bit more lateral thinking about this and  what I am tempted to do is - mask off the boot line but hand paint the different colour shades freehand over a pencil guide, that way I should be able to get a soft subtle difference between colours and even dry brush them to make them merge.

 

OC

[Canute]

OC, make the sub a separate build, if you would. These are distinctly different builds, so rolling them together won't look good. And it'll be easier for others to search for these builds. My 2 cents.

[Old Collingwood]

More progress with the ole girl - I have been working on the mid ship section refining the bulwark armour plate sections around the 4Inch mounts, this involved thinning the fixed plastic plate down as there scale thickness was around a foot :obut after getting some brass etch detail bits and pieces  that included the correct scale thickness plate sections, the nest job was to offer them up and attach the sides to the thinned down plastic plate.

I have also had the separate smaller plate sections in brass etch, so I cut away the small plastic sections,  then fitted the brass after bending the bottom ridges to aid seating correctly,  afterwards a stern walk strip was fitted to the completed side again with a small amount of super glue from a stick with a fine point.

 

Here are a few pics -

[jbshan]

I don't know if this will work with your procedure or not.  Once you have the tape on, put a layer of the first color on the edge of the tape.  This will seal the tape edge.  When you put the second color on and strip the tape the new color will show only inside the tape.

[Old Collingwood]

I was again at the table yesterday doing a bit more work on the mid ship section, concentrating on the other armour plate sections where the 4inch mounts go, I also fitted another Spurnwater  that was with my brass update set - this was tricky as it had to sit in a very narrow section and required just a thin layer of super glue applied with a fine ended brush handle.

The plan is to sand the inside edges of the plate down and the deck area ready for a light grey paint, then I will lay down the semtex coloured sheets that I have made out of paper and painted,   these were in the general area around the 4inch guns, but with the planking running behind and in front of this section, it will then be ready for the wood decking sheet I have - I would have liked to have worked fitting this on each separate piece of the plastic kits deck, but the join with the wooden sheet would look a bit false in a strait line, and I can not leave anything overhanging as the wood decking sheets are way too delicate, otherwise I would have staggered them like I have real deck planking.

 

OC.  

[Old Collingwood]

More work on the mid section today by tidying up the plate sections then a coat od grey primer, next will be the light grey inside paint to be applied, then I will be able to lay down my first section of wood decking, I will aim to do this in smaller sections than on the sheets to aid positioning.

 

Here is a pic of the wood decking to go down, its shows the sections to be cut out around the 4inch mountings that will be metal deck with a dark grey finish.

 

OC