Royal William by marktiedens - FINISHED - Euromodel - scale 1:72

[piratepete007]

Hello Mark and Keith,

 

I must admit the filigree inserts are a refreshing idea and they do sit well on the transom. However, examination of the following photo from the USNA collection shows the use of those oval shaped sections supplied by Euromodel - albeit the centralised filigree shown is what Mark was after. Mark, any chance of seeing your mastery at milling to remove the central section of the supplied oval pieces and then inserting that filigree ? Could those oval pieces be painted with more detail ?

 

Probably too difficult but just an idea.

 

Pete

[marktiedens]

I see what you mean Pete. I may fiddle around with those oval pieces & see what I can do with them.

 

Mark

[piratepete007]

I think this close-up is a better portrayal !!!

 

Pete

Edited July 11, 2016 by piratepete007

[Keith_W]

I purchased some silver solder paste, a pencil flame soldering torch, and a soldering base from a jewelry supply store. I thought - if jewelers can make all those insane little things, so can I.

 

Well, it turns out that soldering at that scale is more of a skill than I previously thought. I AM able to make the joins, but I can't do them consistently. I have been practising but alas, the thought of making so many of them fills me with dread.

[marktiedens]

Thanks Keith - I don`t see any way I can duplicate that intricate pattern ,so I am going to try & cut out the recessed areas of the ovals & use them. Someone really good with photo etch might be able to simulate that fancy scroll work. 

 

Mark

[marktiedens]

Hi all.

Just a thought before I continue - If anyone has thoughts about getting a Euromodel kit their web site is offering their kits at 20% off for a limited time. I have no connection to them - just a satisfied customer.

On with version 2 of the stern railings. I decided that my little scrolls did not look that great,so I decided to change them back to the kit supplied oval decorations with a little modification. The first picture shows the decoration as supplied. I modified them by carefully cutting out the recessed portions to produce a better 3D effect as shown in the second picture. After painting & gluing in place I am happy with them. Next,I will work on getting the lower wales in place before finishing the stern while I can still lay the ship on its side.

 

 

 

 

 

Mark

[piratepete007]

Mark, the extra effort in re-shaping those ovals produced a great end result. Well done.

 

Pete

[marktiedens]

Thanks Pete. I see from the close up that I have a little touch-up do do yet. Funny how the camera can show things better than the eyes alone.

 

Mark

[marktiedens]

A little more progress has been made - lower wales are on & painted. I made one little error - after gluing all the wale strips on I saw that they are a little too high.This is not a problem except for fitting the lower decorations at the stern,so I added a 2mm strip to the bottom of the wale so the decoration would fit. Also painted the upper part of the stem

 

 

 

 

 

Mark

 

 

Edited July 18, 2016 by marktiedens

[marktiedens]

Update - I finished up the stern today. I decided to cut out the recessed areas of the upper railings & glued them in place. Then the stern fascia was glued on & the rest of the decorations added. The only things left are the lanterns,& 2 spears held by the upper figures. They will be added much later to avoid damaging them. I added a couple of brass pins to the uppermost decoration due to it`s weight. This ship is getting really heavy!

 

 

 

 

 

 

Next I will probably put some finish on the hull under the lower wale.

 

Mark

Edited July 20, 2016 by marktiedens

[md1400cs]

Mark,

 

One of your great builds for sure !! Stern work looks awesome indeed.

Edited July 21, 2016 by md1400cs

[marktiedens]

Thanks Michael - a lot of fiddly work,but fun.

[piratepete007]

Mark,

 

Your work so far = passion + persistence + a great dash of initiative. All totally impressive.

 

Pete

[marktiedens]

Thanks Pete - a long way to go yet.

 

Mark

[Greg the peg leg sailor]

G'day Mark

Bloody marvelous mate! Looks so, so real. You should be so dame proud of it. Well done memattieee.

Havagooday Greg

[marktiedens]

Many thanks,Greg .

 

Mark

[fmodajr]

Mark,

 

Just beautiful!!!

 

Frank

[marktiedens]

Thanks Frank!

 

Mark

[marktiedens]

Update - before adding the upper wales,I pre-shaped the fenders to the contours of the hull. They were made from some 4x4mm walnut strips. After bending them with my plank bender,filing,& sanding they ended up being 2.5x3mm. I figured it would be a good time to put a finish on the hull below the lower wale,so on went a coat of polyurethane. The ship was getting a little top heavy with all the metal work,so I felt it was a good time to mount it on the stand,which is a beautiful solid mahogany - not plywood as in most other kits. All the upper wales were then glued in place & notched for the fenders,which were also notched to fit over the wales.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Mark

[marktiedens]

Update - I fine tuned the fenders by tapering the lower ends & glued them in place. The tops will be trimmed off after the railings are in place - if I don`t break them off first. I then added the bolster for the hawse holes - another layer will be added when the cheek rails are fitted. I simulated the double doors at the bow by simply cutting into the planking with a chisel & added some hinges from my spare parts box. Then I put a coat of polyurethane on the hull below the upper wales. I think it may be a good time now to start working on the side decorations.

 

 

 

 

Mark

[marktiedens]

Update - After painting the background black,the side decorations were trimmed to fit around the gunports,painted gold & glued in place.The joints were filled with some filler & smoothed over & painted. The forward most section will be fitted after the positions of the cathead brackets are determined.

 

 

 

 

The port side decorations will be fitted next.

 

Mark

[piratepete007]

Mark,

 

You and I keep in contact via PM but just wanted to say publicly how good your work is. Your craftsmanship will lead to a fantastic conclusion... what more can be said ? Having said that, I am hoping to see others follow in your footsteps. When a fine product is being presented on MSW, I shake my head and take a big breath... like "whow, he/ she is so good and I could not do that" Not so, folks. We all know that it just requires time, patience, initiative, interpretation, research and the will to see it through.

 

Pete

[marktiedens]

Hi Lawrence - thanks for your kind words. If you are referring to the red color,it is a Vallejo paint called gory red which I darkened slightly with a few drops of black mixed in.

 

Mark

[marktiedens]

Pete - many thanks to you for your kind words. You are so right about requiring time,patience,initiative,interpretation,research,& time,PLUS a bit of help from you. This is the most difficult kit I have done,but also the most enjoyable.

 

Mark

[marktiedens]

Another update - port side decorations done & cap rails installed & finish applied to the rest of the hull. I think its time to turn my attention to the bow area - looks a bit tricky.

 

 

 

Mark

[marktiedens]

Hi all - thanks for looking in & all the likes.

Update - working on the bow,the next thing I did was to make a cleat for the gammoning out of some hard walnut. After painting it black,I glued & nailed it to the stem. Next I started work on the head rails. I was having trouble bending the cathead supports using the heating with a flame method,so I decided to try a heat gun. While wearing some thick leather gloves to keep from burning my fingers I found that holding the metal cathead support in the heated air from the heat gun I could bend the metal pieces quite easily. After a bit of filing to fit the curves of the hull,they were painted gold & glued in place. To anyone building this ship using the heat gun is the best way I have found to bend the metal pieces. The low setting on the heat gun is all that is necessary to heat the metal to be bent.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Mark

[piratepete007]

Bravo Mark ! That little cleat is often overlooked and your ingenuity in bending the metal has certainly worked. Question - during the bending phase, did you deliberately cool the metal or did you aim to keep it warm at all times ? You appear to have overcome the problem of the metal becoming brittle so interested to know how long it took to do and what care you took with the temperature fluctuations !

 

Pete

[marktiedens]

During the bending I did not let the metal cool too much. When I felt I could start the bending I just backed away from the heat gun - the metal would stay hot, but not too hot. I didn`t want it to cool too fast in the middle of trying to make a curve. I did the heating several times because I had hold it up to the ship to check the curve & it would cool down. Re-heating several times did not seem to affect the workability of the metal. It was a trial & error kind of thing,but it seemed to work out ok. I probably spent 30 minutes bending each piece. Even after all the filing I had to do to make them conform to the curves of the hull,I had to tweak the bends I made earlier. Just have to be careful not to get the metal too hot - just enough so it can be bent. The temp at the nozzle of the heat gun is about 500 degrees,so it wouldn`t take long to overheat the metal & destroy it. I held the pieces close to the gun only about 7 or 8 seconds then backed away. When I could feel the metal not wanting to bend anymore I moved a little closer to the gun to warm it more. Kind of hard to explain - I just did it by "feel".

[marktiedens]

Hi all - more work on the head rails, First thing I did was cut a notch out of the front edge of the bulwarks for the upper head rail top timber to sit in - right next to the cathead support. Forgot to take a picture for this post,but can be seen in my previous post #271 in the next to last picture. After fine tuning the shape of the upper head rail it was glued in place. I then built the bow grating - it needed to be put in place before the lower head rails were in place. The grating was then glued in place. The front section of the side decorations were then trimmed & glued in place.

 

 

 

 

 

Mark

[marktiedens]

Pete - thanks for your compliments. Your responses showed up in my email,but didn`t make it into the forum

 

Mark