HMB Endeavour by Captain Slog - Caldercraft - 1:64

[src]

Very nice. What is cartridge paper?

Sam

[kenr]

Hi Sam

It comes with the Caldercraft Endeavour kit

it is black card about 250-300 gsm

 

Regards

Ken

[src]

Ahhh ok card stock. Thought it might be something I would find at my local black powder gun shop. Something increasingly rare in California...

Sam

[RGL]

Nice work, good to see you back

[BANYAN]

Very nice Slog!  keep jumpin about mate, keeps the reader more interested also

 

cheers

 

Pat

[Captain Slog]

Hi Guys,

 

Thanks for the comments.

 

Right lets head back to the other end of the ship to work on the bowsprit.  Previously I did a bit of work in positioning the bowsprit on to the stem post which was more or less there.

 

Today I cut the Jib-boom from 4mm dowel and after checking the tapers against the plans marked the various transition points on to both dowels with masking tape and headed out to the shed to the drill press.  Holding the Bowsprit and Jib-boom in the drill press and using various files and grits of paper I put the tapers into the Bowsprit and the Jib-boom.

 

The bowsprit (BS) was left full width near the middle and tapered down towards the front and back.  The Jib-boom was left full width until ti passed the Bowsprit Cap (BSCap) point and then tapered down to the front, leaving a section untouched as it flares out to full width again.

 

 

On to the photos, I placed the hull in my MDF plumb and level jig so I can determine the position of the Bowsprit Cap.  After securing the BS in position with Blu-tac I used the carpenters square to get the vertical position on the BS, since the BSCap is vertical to the waterline.  Once marked up I started to cut the tenon into the end of the BS with razor saw and craft knife.

 

 

Here is the BSCap, as can be seen there is a number of minor problems with it.  Firstly I am pretty sure the mortise for the BS should be square. And secondly the JB hole should be on an angle to match the slope as this will cause problems which will be seen later.  The photo also shows the rough ‘round’ tenon.

 

 

Okay the BS in place and the BSCap positioned vertically with the water line as determined by the carpenters square.  Photo 4 shows the round tenon sticking out.  Once glued up I will trim to length and fill the gaps since it will be painted black and shouldn’t be noticeable that the tenon is round and not square.  I did at one stage think about doing a fake square tenon on the end but since its being painted not worth the effort IMHO.

 

 

Here is the assembly in place showing the shapely JB and the issue with the BSCap JB hole.  If I fittedthe JB through the hole as is the JB would be parallel to the waterline!  So I had to enlarge the hole to incorporate the angle of the JB to the BS so the BSCap hole becomes elongated and therefore not a nice tight fit round the JB.  Again not fussed as this area is painted black so will fill the gaps and paint once everything is fixed.

 

Currently the BSCap is glued up as per photos 3 & 4 and once dry I will continue fitting painting, staining the rest of the components etc.

 

Cheers

Slog

[RGL]

Nice and square, but I'd do all the rope work and blocks before you stick it on for good

Edited January 1, 2014 by Greg Lester

[Captain Slog]

Hi Greg,

 

Your Bowsprit and Cap is stunning.  Mine won't come close to yours, going to do mine straight out of the box.

 

I have glued the Cap on to the bowsprit and will glue the Jib-boom into place also.  The plan from there is to attach all the bits and pieces, cleats, bees, fairlead etc, paint and stain and then pack away.  Where the ship currently resides, doesn't have the space to have the bowsprit assembly fixed in place.

 

I will move on to the masts, tops etc without the rigging and pack away also until we move to the new place at the end of the year.  Then hopefully just the rigging to do.

 

cheers

Slog

[RGL]

I hope your new place is planned around the ship!

[Jeff-E]

Hi Slog,

 

Great work, your bowsprit is looking good all nice and square

[src]

Slog, Looks real good like always. Thanks for the photos of the jig, you just solved a dilemma for me. I had been wondering how I would place my Bow Sprit when the time came. What is blue tac? It looks like some kind of putty.

Sam

[Captain Slog]

I hope your new place is planned around the ship!

Hi Greg, won't have a problem with the new place.  Got a whole spare room for modelling (can see 2 or 3 builds going at once then) and there will be plenty of display space.  The titles for the block were just released, 2 months late and it will be ours on the 10th Jan and got a builder all lined up so just have to wait now.

 

Hi Slog,

 

Great work, your bowsprit is looking good all nice and square

Thanks Jeff.

 

Slog, Looks real good like always. Thanks for the photos of the jig, you just solved a dilemma for me. I had been wondering how I would place my Bow Sprit when the time came. What is blue tac? It looks like some kind of putty.

Sam

Hi Sam, words from wikipedia

 

"Blu-tack is a reusable putty-like pressure sensitive adhesive produced by Bostik, commonly used to attach lightweight objects (such as posters or sheets of paper) to walls or other dry surfaces. Traditionally blue (blu), it is also available in other colours"

 

​Very useful having blobs of it to stick things into for holding also.

 

Cheers

Slog 

Edited January 2, 2014 by Captain Slog

[src]

Hi Greg, won't have a problem with the new place.  Got a whole spare room for modelling (can see 2 or 3 builds going at once then) and there will be plenty of display space.  The titles for the block were just released, 2 months late and it will be ours on the 10th Jan and got a builder all lined up so just have to wait now.

 

Thanks Jeff.

 

​Very useful having blobs of it to stick things into for holding also.

 

Cheers

Slog 

Thanks I will look into it.

Sam

 

​Very useful having blobs of it to stick things into for holding also.

 

Cheers

Slog 

[RGL]

Sweet, a whole room. Off to the porno shop for married blokes then (Bunnings)!

[Captain Slog]

Hi Guys

 

Sweet, a whole room. Off to the porno shop for married blokes then (Bunnings)!

Greg I practically live there as it is!

 

 

I included a picture of a strip of Blu-tac for Sam and showing it holding some of the small parts being pre-painted before installation.  I only painted the areas which contact the bowsprit or would be hard to access after fitting.  In this case the white metal cleats, jib-boom saddle and the fairlead.

 

 

Once I marked all the positions of the components I drilled and glued on the various components to the bowsprit.  I used Tamiya masking tape to mark the black paint line.

 

 

Okay here is the almost completed bowsprit temporary in place.  A few points of note, most of them bad!  The dowel supplied in this kit does not take stain well as it appears quite blotchy in places.  I used the black paper again for the hoop bands and marked the position on the BS from the plans but as can be seen one clashes with the stem (another lesson learned here, don’t rely on the plans alone).

 

I also found it difficult to mark the positions of the cleat holes on a circular dowel.  The eight cleats are in groups of 4 with the two groups being in different positions but the group nearest the deck aren’t very symmetrical.  Hopefully this will be hidden once rope coils are going every which way.

 

I also didn’t fully paint the BS Cap since I will need to do some filling once the Jib-boom is in place.

 

 

Okay I now have a question for some of the masters out there (do you see what I did there?) LOL  I am confused with the relationship between mast, Cheeks and Hounds/Bibs.  The plans below show how you file a flat into the mast for the cheeks to sit on, then hounds go on top of these.

 

Question, does the mast really have a flat, I assumed the cheeks wrapped partially around the mast and the hounds’ let in’ to the cheeks.  From what I have seen the cheeks and hounds are all smoothed into one.  Also the plans mention placing paper bands between the cheeks.  Would these go round the whole mast and the backside of the cheeks recessed for the thickness of the hoops?  A lot of questions I know but any help would be appreciated.

 

Cheers

Slog

[RGL]

Um, not sure what you mean, but this is how I did mine,

[mikec]

Awesome build. keep up the great shots and tips. cheers Mike

[shipaholic]

Hi Slog, looking good.

 

Actual masts were fairly complex and yes instructions with kits are usually vague. Here is how I did my masts - they are tapered along the length but the sides where the cheeks go are also sanded flat. The cheeks themselves also have a taper both in thickness and width, the bottom being flat and the top curved. The curve on the fore and aft of the mast is gradually reduced so that it becomes the flat square section above the top. Confusing eh? In the pic there's a shadow on the mast plus the grain makes it look like theres a bit of a hump but it does taper gradually.

 

Cheers

Steve

Edited January 3, 2014 by shipaholic

[Captain Slog]

Hi Greg,

 

I hope you don't mind but used one of your photos to make my questions clearer.

 

 

The section between the green lines - This is the full circular width of the mast?

 

The Section between the red lines - Does this section have flats on it like the CC plans ask for? or round?

                                                         Does this section have a taper put into the round mast?

 

The Blue pointed hoops - Are these cut between the Cheeks or are they full circumference with notches cut in the underside of the cheeks

 

The Yellow line - Is this a straight line going right up the mast , along the cheek and the hounds or would it step out when it hit the cheek and step out again when it hit the hounds.  (The AOTS shows a straight line upto the cheek and then a straight line along the cheek and hound page 84)

 

Thanks for the photos, I think between your answers to the above and the AOTS I am getting close to the answer.

 

The CC plans show the Cheek plonked flat on to the mast and then the hounds plonked flat on to the cheeks.

 

Cheers

Slog

 

EDIT

 

Hi Steve,

 

You posted as I was writing the above.  I am finding that whole area confusing.  THanks for the photo I see you did a flat for the Cheeks like the CC plans I wasn't sure if this was the case or not.  The drawings in your photo looks like page 84 of the AOTS.  That is what I am aiming for as the CC plans ask for a lumpy layered effect where as that shows a nice smooth line.

 

Thanks for the info.

 

Slowly getting my head round this 

Edited January 3, 2014 by Captain Slog

[shipaholic]

Hi again Slog,

Your new post appeared whilst I was still posting mine. Here is a pic from Lees' masting and rigging of English ships of war that shows sections, the Endeavour didn't have a front fish. Hope it helps.

 

Steve

[Captain Slog]

man, this area is such a head (bleep).

 

The flat area on the mast for the cheek - does it start from nothing and gets deeper until the full thickness of the cheek at the top?

[RGL]

Ok, the whole mast tapers for the cheeks, with the green bit being full circumference. I did it on the lathe. I filed the sides above the green for the cheeks so they are fairly flush. The woulding was filed into the cheeks and used ratan for the hoops. The metal bands were just cut to appear as if they go under.

[shipaholic]

Hi Slog

No the flattend areas arent quite as wide as the bibs. It has to be a bit of a trade-off because you are starting with kit supplied round section. I compromised with mine a bit hoping that it won't be noticed once its painted/laquered and hidden under the top.

Steve

Edited January 3, 2014 by shipaholic

[Captain Slog]

Greg and Steve,

 

Thank you both for your patience and input in helping me with this, I feel a bit stupid actually.

 

I will spend a bit of time going through, what you have posted, the AOTS and the CC plans and will come back with a proposed plan of action to run past you guys to see if I am heading in the right direction.  

 

Cheers

Slog

[Micklen32]

I am not going to read this

Edited January 3, 2014 by Micklen32

[Captain Slog]

Hi Guys

 

It makes my head hurt glancing at it

It certainly hurt mine

 

Just a small update.  Thanks to your comments and a look at the plans and the mast instructions I have came up with a plan of attack for doing the masts/cheeks.

 

I will follow the instructions except will try and do the hounds set-in/flush with the cheeks like you guys have done.  Also the cheeks and hounds are from 1.5mm walnut ply which I will try and redo using some 1.5 mm lime wood strip glued together to get the width correct.  This will allow me to stain and varnish the cheeks like the masts instead of them standing out a lot darker walnut.

 

 

Made a start on the last of the major components from the kit, after the tops are done, apart from the rigging, it is only small bits and pieces left.

 

The first picture shows the individual parts for the tops all cut out and cleaned up ready for assembly. The tops and batten surround are from 1.5mm walnut ply instead of individual wood deals but this is not a problem as they will be painted black.  One thing which is annoying is you have to drill out the individual holes for the crows feet.  Considering they drilled out similar holes you would think they would do these also.

 

 

Here is the batten surrounds glued up and clamped to the tops with plenty of clothes pegs.  The surround was a perfect fit to the tops.

 

 

Whilst the tops were glued and drying I did the trestle tree and cross trees, which are from the 3mm solid walnut sheet.  The slots required only a pass or two with a miniature file and slotted together nicely.  These as glued up also.

 

 

The next step, once the glue is dried is to carefully mark out the crows feet holes and drill them out using a 0.7mm drill as per the plans and then fit and glue up the many 1.5mm square battens that radiate out from the centre to the batten surround.  Join the tops to the trees and install the rear hand rail.

 

Cheers

Slog

[RGL]

I used the CC Photo etch fret. The crows feet thingy does not have enough holes! You'll have to do one by hand.

[Captain Slog]

Hi Guys,

 

A bit more progress on the tops, this time marking and drilling the crowsfeet rope holes and fitting the battens.

 

I used the CC Photo etch fret. The crows feet thingy does not have enough holes! You'll have to do one by hand.

Hi Greg, I thinks it called the ‘The Euphroe’.  Will bear that in mind when the rigging time comes.

 

 

Okay to mark the line of the holes on to the surround batten I used a pair of compasses and extended the pin leg so it went past the top surface and pressed against the outside edge.  I found it easier to place it over the tops and holding the compass still, rotate the top about the pin marking the line.

 

 

Next up was to mark the positions of the holes.  Rather than use a ruler and try to mark the same distance each time I used a piece of brass sheet and put a couple of notches into it at the correct spacing.  Then it was a case of using a needle in the pin vice to mark a hole using the notch as a guide.  Keeping the needle pressed down I used the other notch to position the next hole and then moved the needle to next location and worked my way round the curve.

 

 

Once all the hole positions were marked with the needle I went round drilling them all out using the pin vice.  Turns out I didn’t have the 0.7mm drill asked for so used the next size up at 0.8mm.  Doubt it will make any difference.

 

 

Next up was to do the 1.5mm square battens which radiate around the tops.  The strip stock supplied was absolutely terrible, it was grainy, splintery and misshapen. If I wasn’t keen to get a last modelling session in before holiday end and it wasn’t being painted I would have source something better.

 

Rather than try and measure and transfer the positions onto the top I had the brainwave of extending the lines on the plans out past the edges of the tops

 

 

That way I can just place the tops over the drawings and see the correct locations of the battens without a whole lot of measuring and marking.  Then once the batterns were cut to match the surround it was a case of looking down and using the Mk1 eyeball to position.

 

Once I had a few battens done I could use some Tamiya tape to hold the tops on to the plans more securely and then fit the rest of the battens.

 

 

Just remains now to leave the battens to dry fully and then trim the length flush with the inside edge of the lubber’s hole and then glue the trees to the undersides.  This is all I will do to the tops now and pack away until the masts are done.

 

Cheers

Slog

[RGL]

Make sure to do a dry fit of the topmasts before you fit it all so they a) fit and sit square within the width of the inner tops hole. I did the fit which worked at first, then after all the shrouds went on it can be one a very tight fit.

[RGL]

I have no idea how the silly smiley face got there.