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Posted

Henry: cumulative error means that the first thing one does is a tiny bit off. The next, measured from the first, is a little more off... and before you know it, everything has become way off. It's the rolling snowball effect. The only way to avoid this problem is by repeatedly re-measuring and checking things, be it a distance or an angle. With a scratch build like yours or Kevin's, it's imperative. One can't be even a bit careless and get away with it. Ask me how I know!

Be sure to sign up for an epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series  http://trafalgar.tv

Posted

How do you know?  :D

Alan O'Neill
"only dead fish go with the flow"   :dancetl6:

Ongoing Build (31 Dec 2013) - HMS BELLEROPHON (1786), POF scratch build, scale 1:64, 74 gun 3rd rate Man of War, Arrogant Class

Member of the Model Shipwrights of Niagara, Niagara Region, Ontario, Canada (2016), and the Nautical Research Guild (since 2014)

Associate member of the Nautical Research and Model Ship Society (2021)

Offshore member of The Society of Model Shipwrights (2021)

Out of State member of the New Bern Maritime Modelers Guild (2025)

Posted (edited)

I get to 9:51 in the above video and it kicks me back to the beginning!

I can pick just ahead of that and it loads and plays... not sure what I missed, assuming not much

Edited by AON

Alan O'Neill
"only dead fish go with the flow"   :dancetl6:

Ongoing Build (31 Dec 2013) - HMS BELLEROPHON (1786), POF scratch build, scale 1:64, 74 gun 3rd rate Man of War, Arrogant Class

Member of the Model Shipwrights of Niagara, Niagara Region, Ontario, Canada (2016), and the Nautical Research Guild (since 2014)

Associate member of the Nautical Research and Model Ship Society (2021)

Offshore member of The Society of Model Shipwrights (2021)

Out of State member of the New Bern Maritime Modelers Guild (2025)

Posted

Yeah, Kevin, I feel your pain. Getting the cat tails scored under the beams is very tricky.

Be sure to sign up for an epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series  http://trafalgar.tv

Posted (edited)

Sometimes I find the small restricted area fiddles with my mind to make it more difficult than it should be.

I also find carving on end grain to be difficult.

I find that if I take a slightly larger piece of thin stock and rubber glue that to a base piece of wood that is clamped, then pencil mark the shape, then start carving it is somewhat easier. Then I remove it from the base and take it to the table top disk sander and sand the edges to their margin lines.... but still the first one can take three attempts! But it gets easier.

Edited by AON

Alan O'Neill
"only dead fish go with the flow"   :dancetl6:

Ongoing Build (31 Dec 2013) - HMS BELLEROPHON (1786), POF scratch build, scale 1:64, 74 gun 3rd rate Man of War, Arrogant Class

Member of the Model Shipwrights of Niagara, Niagara Region, Ontario, Canada (2016), and the Nautical Research Guild (since 2014)

Associate member of the Nautical Research and Model Ship Society (2021)

Offshore member of The Society of Model Shipwrights (2021)

Out of State member of the New Bern Maritime Modelers Guild (2025)

Posted

While watching your video and your bowsprit problem I was going to suggest checking the stieve of your bowsprit vs. the plan. But you came up with this on your own. Your solution worked out well though. You could have worked in a set of beams on either side afore beam #1 but it will be hidden so not really an issue.

 

You mentioned the "as built home plan" vs the architect's original plan. I'm sure you're aware that many ships plans were labelled "as built" and differed from the original plans as well, likrly for the same reasons.

Greg

website
Admiralty Models

moderator Echo Cross-section build
Admiralty Models Cross-section Build

Finished build
Pegasus, 1776, cross-section

Current build
Speedwell, 1752

Posted

Kevin, You mention using the rotary tool to accomplish the result. We didn't hear anything about that approach at the workshop given by David and Greg. Nevertheless, if you look to Ed Tosti, who also does magnificent work, he uses the rotary tool almost exclusively. Greg and David will be in New London, CT on April 26. Be great if you showed up!

Tom

Posted

Hi Tom

David does not like power tools while Greg is like me and loves them. You will see this demonstrated in book 3 of the Swan Practium . Having said that David’s approach is to learn carving  skills using gouges . I found that to work at this scale and the size of the cathead  it was easier to use my Turbo carver to carve the diamond shapes. David would definitely disagree and use a v shape gouge to achieve the same result. I will continue to practice using the gouges but have no issue using power tools to achieve the end result.  Sorry will not see you this year, my next visit is in December as we are planning white Christmas in upstate NY.

Posted

Of course, there is no single 'right' way'. Some of us prefer power carvers, some hand tools. My preference is the latter, as I never was able to achieve as much control with a rotary tool at small scale, unlike others. The other point I'd like to make is the polished surfaces and sharp inner corners made by an edge tool a power bit can't achieve. But, each to his or her own.

Be sure to sign up for an epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series  http://trafalgar.tv

Posted

I needed some more wood do out to the outside workshop to cut some stock and almost had an issue. So decided to make a rip jig for this saw. Strange as I never cut up small stock on this saw always on the Proxxon.  Here is the jig I made using Green heart and Juniper wood .i should have done this a long time ago.  Its nice to be able to make your own tools.

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