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Posted

Hi all, forums were not available when I started modelling. Now that I've rejoined modelling fraternity I've decided to join and tap the wealth of info here.

 

I've inherited a model of the Lilla Dan. The hull is finished with just the fittings to be attached which is not a problem.

 

My question is about the rigging fittings. How are the eye bolts (F664) fitted to the hull. Also are the railings fixed with "Araldite" or another glue?

 

Thanks in anticipation.

Posted

After drilling the appropriate size hole, most put a tiny drop of CA glue on the eyebolt shank and insert it into the hole.  If you are at all concerned that that's not strong enough (lots of rigging tension) you could use a tiny bit of 2 part epoxy.  The CA should be fine, though.

Posted

I do exactly what Dave described using only CA and do not recall ever having an eyebolt come loose.

PROWE

 

If someone says something can't be done, it only means they can't do it.

 

Building:Shipyard - HMS Mercury card madel

 

Completed Builds:

Wood Models; AL Bluenose II 1989, Corel Toulonnaise 1995, Corel Flying Fish 2000, AL Scottish Maid 2005,

Sergal President 2010, Mamoli Beagle 2011, Corel Eagle 2013, Mamoli Constitution Cross-section 2014, Victory Cross-section 1/98 by Corel 2015, Occre San Francisco Cable Car 2018, Model Shipways Armed Long Boat 2021

Card Models

Christmas Train by PaperReplika 2012, Yamaha DSC11 Motorcycle 2013, Canon EOS 5D Mark II 2014, WWII Tiger I Tank by Paper-Replika 2014, Wrebbit Mercedes-Benz 500K Roadster 2014, Central Pacific no. 60 Jupiter card model 2015, Mirage III 1/30 converted to 1/33 card model 2017, TKpapercraft 1912 Mercer 2021

 

 
Posted

Ahoy Mates

 

A couple other things you might do: sand the sides of the eyebolt end that gets glued in. I roughens up the surface and also removes any oil or oxidation that would lessen the holding power of the glue that you use.

 

If the eyebolt is going to have tension on it straight in line to the hole it's in,file some notches into the sides of the end that goes into the hole 90 deg. These will fill in with glue and hold the eyebolt in even better than just the glue around the straight sides  of the eyebolt end.

 

I have not had an eyebolt come out of a deck after notching the ends for the glue.

 

Do not have a hole too tight to the eyebolt size,you need some space for the glue to form a film around the eyebolt sides.

 

Keith

Posted

Thanks for all your comments. This makes sense in "blind" holes but is it acceptable, in "through" holes, to bend the eye bolt shank to fix without glue?

Posted

I'd think you would still want the glue, even bent under the plank.

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

  • 1 year later...
Posted

Hello there, I have a query:- often it is said, 'add a tiny drop of 2-part epoxy'. This part of the planet that means Araldite. Well, if you have just a couple or three eye-bolts to attach, my experience with the stuff tells me you're going to waste a lot of it, even if you just dispense the smallest blob. Then there's the problem with the screw caps locking up. Araldite has a lot of usefulness, but for ring-bolts etc., surely there's a better product. 

Has anyone tried what could be a suitable 'Locktight' product?

Posted

You may also want to insert the eyebolt shaft at an angle so that it is not in direct line of the force of pull.

 

5ad3a74076395_attachingeyebolt.thumb.jpg.a3005bc5b03420e44d372d2db2ea95cc.jpg

Chuck Seiler
San Diego Ship Modelers Guild
Nautical Research Guild

 
Current Build:: Colonial Schooner SULTANA (scratch from Model Expo Plans), Hanseatic Cog Wutender Hund, Pinas Cross Section
Completed:  Missouri Riverboat FAR WEST (1876) Scratch, 1776 Gunboat PHILADELPHIA (Scratch), John Smith Shallop

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