Chaperon 1894 by Mike Dowling - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Sternwheeler Steamer

[Cathead]

Mike, if you think only a few of those seams will show, you could always consider hiding them under a few loads of cargo (barrels, boxes, bales). That's a long-standing model railroad tradition for hiding oddities in work; many layout buildings with vines creeping up the walls look that way to hide a flaw in the paint or siding!

 

If you decide to replank, those holes are a concern. Not knowing how the kit is set up, would it be easier to drill circular holes, then round the bottom of the posts or tabs that fit into them, rather than trying to square off lots of holes?

[Mike Dowling]

I think you miss the point my friend. The planking lines are supposed to show although you have a very good point about some of the other 'joints'. Your suggestion might be brilliant for those. I think there are just too many square holes in this kit for your cunning plan to work but thanks for the suggestion. There is a lot to be said for scratchbuilding methinks but I am certainly not sure I could make as wonderful a model as your Bertrand!

[Cathead]

Yes, Mike, I was talking about the toothed joints between deck panels, not the planking lines. Apologies for any confusion.

 

What about setting small metal pins into the bottom of any post/tab that's supposed to fit into the deck, then just drilling tiny holes into the new deck for those pins to fit into? Could be hard to get the alignment just right, but probably no harder than actually fully redrilling so many holes then shaping them properly.

 

Apologies if I'm overdoing the ideas;  my mother has the same habit of constantly offering advice even when unwanted; I get the solving-others'-problem gene from her.

[Mike Dowling]

No Cathead (wish I knew your proper name, it seems a bit rude to keep calling you Cathead) you are absolutely right. There are loads of solutions to different problems and any/all suggestions are welcome.

 

Having said that I have just had a bath (not that anyone wants to know that!) and come back to look at the painted surface and I have to say I am far from impressed. The problem with MSW and all the experts and advice is that all of a sudden you become like them !!!!

 

I am not at all happy with what I see of my efforts thus far. Cathead you will be thrilled but I am now seriously considering this re-planking lark. Don't know what you think Karl because you managed with the kit as was ?

 

But, experts, what is the best wood for such narrow planking ? We are looking at 1/8th because it is an American kit which is 3. something mm for the Europeans which I simply refuse to be !! I did get some Manzonia before for my Lady Smith and that fairly decent. Any good? I will not get the size right for the laser lines whatever I do which is a bit of a pain but allowing for glue and slightly rough edges this aint going to happen anyway!

 

A lot of the walls and stuff are also planked in this kit much like others I have done so whatever I do has to be consistent. There was loads of planking to be done on the Robt. E. Lee I built which I do quite enjoy and the end result of that build looks one heck of a lot better than what I have in front of me now.

 

So guys, should I stick with Manzonia which is a wee bit wide but a good thickness or use something else ? HELP!

[Roger Pellett]

Several years ago I built model of a US Navy motor whaleboat at 1:32 scale. I wanted a wartime finish so I painted the decks navy deck blue instead of varnished as would have been the case during peacetime. Research indicated a foredeck caulked with white seam compound.

 

I first painted the entire deck white and then sanded the white paint off. The white paint of course stayed in the seams between the planks. I then "caulked" the seams with thread and sprayed on my deck blue. After the blue dried, I pulled out the thread leaving a white seam.

 

On my first try, the seam was too regular and too bold so I tried again with thinner thread and was happy with the result.

 

I did not plank this very small deck but sawed the seams into a piece of model aircraft plywood with a miniature table saw.

 

Roger Pellett

[cog]

Mike,

 

The thickness you can overcome (if to thin) by glueing it on top of veneer/ very thin plywood. To thick, that can be sanded down. The wood. It's merely a matter of preference, you can get most kinds milled to request. Mick (Yamsterman) has an address in the UK where he get's his wood. It depends also on the amount you care to, or can spend on it. If the decks get stained ... it's merely the quality of the "look" of the wood after staining ...

 

Cheers

[Mike Dowling]

Hey guys, here are some pictures warts and all. I would like honest opinions please as to what I should do.

 

 

[cog]

What will be visible of that ugly join, both a midships as length wise, once the walls and deck frniture is fitted ... If that is acceptable to you ... the decision is yours, as it is your build, Mike.

 

If, however, you decide to plank the deck, make a template from your current one for the round and square openings. Put a piece of paper on top and with a soft pencil, 2B or higher, softly scratch over the openings. You'll see a distinct darker circumference of the opening. If you fixate it on one side you can lift the paper and look where the next opening is to be marked. You can then use the template to transfer the marked openings to the new deck.

[Mike Dowling]

Thanks for that Carl, I had been thinking about how to make a template in case and I like your suggestion. This kit, apart from the laser marked planks has a lot of guidelines to show were other pieces go later. That is partly why I didn't dare sand the deck any harder in the first place.

[cog]

Ah, to be on the safe side, Mike. Make a xerox copy when finished and use that one to transfer the markings. You could use carbon paper to transfer the markings ... if that is still available

[Cathead]

The photos are very helpful. It does like nice as it is. To my eye, it's too uniform and shiny, I find that subtle variations in color and finish make a model look far more realistic than a uniform finish, even if the latter is technically more accurate. So if you keep it, I'd try to dull and vary the finish a little bit, maybe with careful application of pastels or something. Make every few planks a slightly different shade, or more weathered, or something. But unlike a sailing ship, much of the deck will end up obscured, so maybe it doesn't matter. You could focus that effort only on the bow and other areas that will remain exposed.

 

Those toothed joints between panels do stand out, but again most of that area will be covered, so I suspect that a few crates and barrels would take care of the rest.

 

Does that deck have any plank ends? From the images, it looks like just a continuous run. It's probably too late to scribe in some plank joints, but that would give it some extra nice detail and variation as well, and is something that would happen naturally if you replank it.

 

Honestly I'm torn. It would be a lot of work to replank what is a good-looking deck, and most of your work would be obscured (Chaperon has far more enclosed space than Bertrand did). I guess I'd say do it if you want the experience and the extra work and detail, but what you have would look plenty good with just a little finishing.

[Mike Dowling]

You sir are a gent! Yes I reckon I could get away with it but..........!

No there are no plank ends, something else I don't like about it and I have already tried scoring across the wood but it tears rather than leaving nice ends.

 

The scale of this model is 1:48 so, because I am no good at maths either, how long should scale planks be? Any ideas? I would reckon about 5 inches or 12 cms ?

[chborgm]

I hate to make this to simple, but take some measurements, and cut off the tabs. This is what you would do on a scratch build and with many other kits with no tabs.

[Cathead]

For context, nearly all of Bertrand's decking was preserved intact, and the archeology team mapped every plank. Most look to be 20-25 feet long, with a somewhat chaotic planking pattern that seems to fit the backwoods construction. Widths are pretty variable, too, again fitting the way a lot of early steamers were built. Given that Bertrand was built 30-odd years before Chaperon, I don't know how much decking methods changed in that time, I don't know much about these late steamers. I'd guess they were more standardized by the late 20th century. But that's at least some context for you.

 

At scale, 20-25' comes out to roughly 13-16cm or 5-6 inches.

[Mike Dowling]

chborgm, sorry but I don't understand what you mean, I don't know what you mean by 'tabs'.

 

Thanks for that cathead, that's about what I thought.

 

Any ideas about beech wood anyone?

[kurtvd19]

Mike:

I have attached 2 photos of my Chaperon when it was under construction.  Sorry but these are the best photos I have of the area in question but they might help.

 

If you are able to very lightly sand the paint to knock off a bit of the shine I think that you will have a pretty nice deck.  The areas of the notched plank joints are pretty well hidden once the model is finished and as suggested some bit of cargo can hide most of it, but I just went into my loft to examine the model and with the location of the joints between the back of the boilers and just ahead of the cabin I just can't see the joint at all.

 

The first photo shows the deck with the starboard cabin walls in place and the port side ready for the walls to be put in place.  The seams are directly forward of the end of the forward end (left in photo) of the cabin walls.  In the lower photo this area is shown with the main deck completely finished.  With the railings at the deck edge there just isn't much visibility of the planking seams.

 

As to the lack of plank butt joints the only areas this will be visible is the fore deck area and the aft decking by the Chaperon name.

 

It's your decision regarding planking over the deck.  As to the holes for the various posts and locating the structures I would handle these as you do the planking by notching the planks for each square hole as you fit the planks that will cover them.  I found that I had to fit each post to it's hole by either enlarging the hole with a square file or sanding the bottom end of the post.  Mark the planks as you cover any of the laser scribed locating lines.  Doing it this way would eliminate the need for a pattern.  Using think planking the trim board at the perimeter of the deck might need to be a bit wider or you might be able to use the kit provided pieces - I just don't remember how much they extended below the kit's deck.

 

I hope this helps.

 

Kurt

[Mike Dowling]

Thank you very much Kurt for both the PM and your post. I have used the method you describe for locating holes etc when planking before so I understand exactly what you mean.

 

I have bitten the beginning of the bullet as you will see by sanding the whole thing down rather severely and getting rid of that red paint where it would show.

One of the reasons was the dog tooth joint, whilst it might not show much looked horrendous and I just couldn't live with it, also the horrid central bump I had at the prow. So, if nothing else the bumps have now gone. Unfortunately the process has also showed up the variation is laser marked lines and how feint they are in some parts and really strong in others.

 

It occurs to me that I don't really have too plank the whole surface, only the parts that will show and what will be inside the cabins I could then just paint matt black.

 

If I am going to paint rather than stain/varnish I must source some matt iron oxide paint. I bought satin finish without realsing.

 

Anyway contributors, look what you have made me do !   Only joking, it's all my fault!

 

Doesn't anyone know about beech wood ?

 

   

[cog]

Good on you Mike. The first step is always the most difficult one.

 

Beech wood ... Personally I like the colour, and structure, you can bend it easily when steamed, I don't know about the dry heating method. It is often used in kitchens, as it doesn't splinter (cutting boards a.o.) I don't know how thin you can get it or mill it, that's another question left unanswered, but it can be finished very smooth.

Edited July 31, 2016 by cog

[Mike Dowling]

Thanks Carl,

 

I have just spent some time remarking the laser lines with a no11 blade and a very sharp pointy thin I have in my armoury and, it doesn't look too bad.

 

SO, matt paint on order and I will try to paint it again knowing that if I muck it up I can always cover it !!!

 

Thanks for all the comments everyone, I will try not to let you down !

[cog]

Mike,

 

Whatever you do, you can't let us down. Build to the best of your ability, and improve. Have fun in your build, and tackle the challenges ... enjoy it !!!

 

Cheers

[kurtvd19]

Mike:

Like Carl said, you can't let us down.  You learn from a mistake, do the best you can do and try to do better next time.  This is what it is all about.

 

I think the deck looks pretty good now.

 

Kurt

[Mike Dowling]

Yes you are right my friend, it didn't look bad before I started painting it - except for the lumps of course !!!

[Red]

HI Mike 

Another problem overcome, well done.

 

I am currently building a Ship-ways model Philadelphia. So far everything has been most impressive; design, instructions, a very well thought out model.

I  have noticed though, that some of the larger pieces of thin wood do bare an uncanny resemblance to the type of wood you are having so much trouble with (deck).

However it does look a fine model. Anyway I have learnt something from your trials and tribulations, so thanks for posting.

Regards

Red

 

[thomaslambo]

Hi Mike,

 

Personally, I'd re-plank the deck with a nice clean and even pattern (you have a solid foundation to work with...take advantage of it).  Then color or finish it anyway you like...just my personal opinion.

 

Also, Cathead is spot on target with the 1:48 scale plank sizes.

 

Good luck, and what ever you decide will be fine.....beauty is after all in the eye of the builder 

[Mike Dowling]

Thanks Boyd, I am just trying to paint this model in colours true to the original but I do take your point and I often 'alter' the odd bit and piece to suit myself!!

 

Not that it bothers me particularly but if I do have to plank the deck I will have to do the second as well at least. Strangely the top two decks are smooth in the kit but I am not knowledgeable enough to know how that could have been achieved on the original boat.

 

Anyway, thanks for watching and I also reckon the plank size is OK.

[Panama Port]

Hi Mike, it's really frustrating when our expectations don't quite match our toolkits. Throw in some uncooperative pieces and it makes for a bad modelling day. I know you have seen it on my log too. The upside is when we get/develop additions to our toolkit. I think you have done well with this already. But then again I live with expectations and toolkit that are far more modest than yours. Well done amigo.

 

Marv

[Cathead]

Mike,

 

I'm pretty sure the upper decks were covered in tarpaper or canvas, beneath which they were planked as usual. I think Kurt will have some suggestions for how to achieve that effect.

[Mike Dowling]

Marv, I keep hoping I will win the lottery or something and but some really expensive toys like some Byrnes tools !!! I don't think it is going to happen but I still seem to spend too much on little bits and pieces !

 

Thanks Cathead, I seen to remember Kurt saying something about tar paper or similar. Perhaps if he is watching he will be kind enough to enlighten us.

 

By the way, still waiting for the matt paint I have ordered so I am just doing some of the little bits that eventually will go on the deck.

[Roger Pellett]

I personally like the paint job. The joints between the planks show up nicely and the color is good. It doesn' look too glossy but if you think that it is there are ways to flatten it. Here in the US Testors makes a product called Dullcote, a flat lacquer that would help. I have also noticed that paints often get flatter as they fully harden. As for the "dog tooth" joints pile some freight on them!

 

You are doing a great job that will produce a handsome model.

 

Roger Pellett

[Mike Dowling]

Hey Roger, did you notice that I sanded it all off?