Cutty Sark by mojofilter - Sergal/Mantua - 1:78

[mojofilter]

On October 1, 2017 at 11:43 AM, mojofilter said:

 

 

Edited October 16, 2017 by mojofilter

[mojofilter]

Hamilton, the deck house panels are etched brass that I painted flat white.  I scraped off the paint around the port holes.  They are not accurate according to Campbell plans or Longbridge book.  I think they look OK so I don't really care.  They come in a strip that I cut apart, between which I inserted walnut strips (can't find teak).

 

Hof, Looks like these pictures were before the topgallant rail was applied?  Is the brass strip one piece?  Is it a solid strip from the deck to the underside of the topgallant rail?  And from the knighthead to the poop?  Looks like it ends back there somewhere?

The warped fore deck: I live in New Mexico and we have very low humidity - we can use evaporative (swamp) coolers effectively.  The laminated plywood of the fore deck is not happy with the fluctuations though. It looks like the aft end of the deck runs to the fore side of the WCs and attaches there?

Again, beautiful execution, even at this early stage!  Thanks for the pics!

 

- Tim

[hof00]

Hi Chap,

Yup planked on the outside of the Bulwark "Extensions" with 0.5mm I guess Basswood.

Brass was installed afterward and extensions removed post this.

Decking followed.

Your Metal Working skills are good, mine poor....

The Poop Deck Bulwarks i resorted to wood, as per the photos.

The PE as far as Mantua couldn't be shaped, come Hell or High water....

Main difficulty with this subject, the difficulty, mine anyway, is the fact that Rigging, is in the main, "Inboard."

As stated, lots of images. (I'd like to see your "Execution" better than mine!!)

Hmm....Unsure about the Humidity "Excuse."

We have Temperature/Humidity fluctuations in the Antipodes also!! My memory of the "Skeleton" was that it "Slotted" together with no issues, just "Pinned" my False Decks.

 

Happy to help/advise.

How can I help further?

 

Cheers and Regards,

 

Harry. (HOF)

[NenadM]

Very, very promissing !

 

[hof00]

Hi Chap,

To answer your questions:

 

The Brass Bulwarks came in the same sheet of PE, from memory there were three sections, (Lengths), per side and the afore mentioned Stern piece that I struggled with.

The "Freeing Ports" were cut out prior to fixing on the Bulwark Planking. Once in place, the Bulwark planking "Freeing Ports" were removed using the Brass as a Template so to speak.

The width of these, I guess from False Deck level to the Top Gallant Rail Level.

And, yes, the Top Gallant Rail was fitted after the Pin Rail/s, Stanchions otherwise I would never have been able to fit these.

(There is also some other detail that goes into the Inner Bulwarks prior to fitting the Top Gallant Rail. (I'll find a photo.)

 

Yup, the Fore Deck butts up to the WC's.

Just a note here, I put a 1.0 X 1.0mm strip around all the rear edges of the Foredeck.

(I performed this before fitting.)

 

The Pin Rails were modified also, there are not enough holes for all the Backstays for the Fore and Main Masts.

 

Enjoy!!

 

Cheers....HOF.

 

 

 

Edited October 16, 2017 by hof00

[mojofilter]

On 10/16/2017 at 11:09 AM, NenadM said:

Very, very promissing !

 

Nenad - A while back on keelhauled's log, you posted:

 

"Marc, if you are interested, I could send you a link to my Gdrive where is my collection of CS photos ( couple od hundreads)

Edited June 30, 2015 by Nenad"

 

Do you still have this link available?

Thanks,

 

- Tim

Edited October 18, 2017 by mojofilter

[NenadM]

3 hours ago, mojofilter said:

Nenad - A while back on keelhauled's log, you posted:

 

"Marc, if you are interested, I could send you a link to my Gdrive where is my collection of CS photos ( couple od hundreads)

Edited June 30, 2015 by Nenad"

 

Do you still have this link available?

Thanks,

 

- Tim

Yes I have

Try

https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0BzxUQf9ppp1zQTR5Yk5ybmRyeVE

[mojofilter]

Thanks Nenad!  A treasure trove!

[mojofilter]

Two things - I am working on the deck fixtures; deck houses, mast coats, pumps, windlass etc. in order to define mitered borders around these for decking.  Looking at stock of pictures of the real ship (thanks again Nenad!), I don't see mitered decking trim at the base of the deck houses.  At least not the modern version.  Was there?

 

The other question is skylights - certainly one on the poop deck house, either 6 or 8 lights.  One on the aft deck house?  Or two?

I saw somewhere here the use of real glass for the lights.  Microscope cover slide.  Incredibly thin at 0.007".

My first attempts were with a regular glass cutter.  shattered shards.  A search showed to use a carbide tipped scribe with gentle, consistent pressure.  Viola!! (the French version).  The secret is to apply a drop of isopropyl alcohol.

 

Edited October 27, 2017 by mojofilter

[NenadM]

Neverlasting question - depends which period of Her life you want to reproduce - at present day or some decades earlier, or much much much earlier

I tried to do some research, mentioned it in my build log, and decide for "middle" solution - combination of present stage and look of Her shown in Campbel`s plans

She is very old ship, changed Her look many many times, particulary on details, so ... in my opinion, there is not "universal truth" here

All the best

Nenad

[mojofilter]

I know I'm kinda jumping around a bit but I built a caddy for the old Prestolite torch.  Cleaned everything up a bit.  The Admiral is not thrilled at having the thing in her dining room - I'll wheel it into a dark corner and sneak it out when I need to.  It's not the fire and flame - she is a silversmith - it's just that the shipyard looks like it's taking over . . .

 

 

Can't seem to rotate the picture.

 

I'll be making a lot of parts of brass.  Silver soldered.   Here is an attempt at a stanchion. 

 

It's 18 gauge so it's probably out of scale.  The rings are 20 gauge - I'll try some smaller material.

Only 51 more of these

 

 

 

 

Edited October 27, 2017 by mojofilter

[mojofilter]

Some more metal work.

Mainmast top

 

 

 

Bowsprit/Jib boom collar

 

Soldered

... with lugs

Experimenting with bulwark angle iron (er, brass)

 

 

Edited November 11, 2017 by mojofilter

[mojofilter]

Hello all - Can anyone tell me the dimensions shown here?  I gather not all of the panels were exactly the same but I suspect most were the same size?

Thanks,

 

- Tim

 

[mojofilter]

A trial strip.  This is 0.5mm walnut.  At 1:78, the panel is 12.5" high.  The 'slots' are 5" high by 32" long, and 14" between slots.

In looking at the treasure trove of pictures of Her Majesty, I can see a few different widths of slots.

 

[etubino]

Mojofilter

 

You have achived an impecable finish! I´ve seen many solictiosn simulate this "ornamental" part of the inner Bulkwark and I can tell that yours is treally good if not the best!

 

Eduardo

[mojofilter]

Thanks for the compliment Eduardo.  Actually, a Cameron Micro Drill with a Proton XY table, and a 1/16 end mill.  

My father bought this many years ago and used it to drill holes in printed circuit boards.

From pictures it looks like the teak panels were 12" high, the white reveal 4" high and (at least some) 36" long?  Paneling over and under the reveal at 4" each?  The space between the reveal ~12" (4" 'post' in the middle of this that the topgallant rail sits on?).

I'm not going to get too carried away with this - just a point of interest.

Also, it seems that this top bulwark paneling ends forward against the heads, forward of that, on the anchor deck, it seems to be iron, painted white, with just the butt plates/angle iron to support the topgallant rail.  The aft paneling appears to end midway down the poop deck and looks to be wood planks painted black.

Any details on this appreciated!

Thanks,

 

- Tim

 

 

[NenadM]

[mojofilter]

Thanks for the likes and the detailed picture Nenad!

The panels will be 12" X 40".  I am still a long way from there but I will use this technique on the upper bulwarks.

I will continue on with the metal work; masts with coats, bands, lugs, trees etc.

The brass bowsprit is finished except for the cheek sheaves for the fore topmast stays, which I intend to turn this morning.

 

[NenadM]

Briliant !!!!

 

[etubino]

Tim, in this Bowsprint you are achieving accurate autenticity! It really looks like the real one.  Using metal and soldering is something I would like to learn.

 

Eduardo

[hamilton]

Great metal work Tim! 

hamilton

[Kevin]

did any more progress get made with this build

[mojofilter]

Hello everyone -

It's been WAY too long since I've dropped in.  It's very good to see a lot of the same folks and builds progressing, and in some cases completing their projects.  I was able to retire (finally) about a year ago, and with some big items off the honey-do lists, I'm finding myself with a little time.  Looking at some interesting metalworking and engraving websites is rekindling my nautical interests, so I'm going to re-open the shipyard.  The CS was placed in mothballs several years ago so finding just where I left off is taking some time.  Also trying to find the treasure trove of photographs I'd collected from the incredibly helpful folks here proving difficult.  It's been one or two computers ago and backing up was not one of my strong points.  Fortunately Nenad's links still work so that's a great start.  Anyway, please bear with me as I ask many questions all over again, and try to dive back into this build.

Best regards,  - Tim

[LeoM]

Hej Tim,

Good to see you are back. I will be following your proceedings with utmost interest. 😉

All the best and good luck

[mojofilter]

Hey folks - does anyone have a good graphic of the transom scroll work?  I'm looking for something flat that I can use for a pattern for engraving.  The larger (and more accurately detailed) the better.  I've got tons of pictures but translating this to a flat surface would be kind of a mystery to me, with the compound curved surface.

Thanks in advance,

- Tim

[AHolt]

Tim --

 

To your question about a graphic of the scroll work: the Campbell plans have one, I think it is at 1/4" scale (different from the 3/32" scale of the main parts of the ship). But it's flat and shows the scroll work well. It is on either the Rigging or the Sail plan. 

 

I know the Sergal "photo etch" for the transom scroll work -- for that matter, the bow name plate and trail/head board as well -- is not very good. If you decide to go another route than engraving, there is a company, HiSModel (https://www.hismodel.com) that offers a very nice photoetch set of the bow and transom scroll work for the Billings kit, but I think will work on the Sergal kit -- not that different in scale. I bought it -- not very expensive -- It is a significant improvement over the Sergal "photo etch" and is very close to the actual ship. I've got a 40+ year old Billings kit and the Sergal kit, and will tackle probably the Sergal kit after wrapping up Syren (now in masting and rigging) although I'm pulled toward Chuck's Winchelsea. 

 

Anyway -- FYI.

 

Allen