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Posted

Lower band of planking. 1st plank (Garboard is 3/16" aft tapered to 1/8" forward). It is beveled to seat into the rabbit created by the side pieces on the former (keel). It is then followed by 8 strakes of 1/8" x 1/16".

 

 

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Posted

Hi Samuel

 

I really like what you're doing with this cross-section.  From the temporary structural timbers to give rigidity to the hull whilst it's under construction, through to the nice and clean planking, she's looking really good.

 

Well done and keep the updates flowing!

 

Cheers

 

Patrick

Posted

Thought I'd switch sides, band C is installed on Starboard.

 

As with Port, the Garboard strake is beveled from 3/16" to 1/8" length wise. It is then beveled on edge to tuck into the rabbit formed by the additional piece added to the Keel (former).

 

The remaining strakes are all at 1/8".

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Posted

Port side middle band ("B") is comprised of 11 planks. The planks are 3/16" forward tapering to 1/8" aft.

 

The first 5 are installed and the spacing/measurements are checked to assure the planks are running true.

 

The remaining planks are tapered and installed with the 11th plank being un-tapered until it is installed to make any adjustments necessary for inconsistencies in taper of previous planks.

 

The entire side below the Wale is sanded with a series of progressively finer grade of sandpapers (4-5 steps) from 80 to 600 grit.

 

The entire hull is then wiped down with a tack cloth and blown with compressed air.

 

 

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Posted

Starboard side.

 

Wales are installed. They feature a laser etched/embellished anchor stock planking detail. This will be repeated on Port. The wales, (for photgraphic detail) have been given a coat of wipe-on poly to highlight the etch. When finished they will be painted black.

 

There is one 3/16" strip installed below the wale. From that point down to planking band "C" the hull on Starboard will be left open for view of lower deck details.

 

A thin veneer was added to each bulkhead/frame face between the wale and band "C" providing a cleaner surface for finish (either paint or stain)

 

Next up: Above the wales

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Posted

Samuel

 

Thanks for sharing the photos of your build.  Starting with a cross section is a great learning experience.  Per Bill's post, I am also curious as to what ship(s) this is based on? Taking the time to make the top and butt planking as you have done is a home run.  You do show things I have never seen before, and have me curious such as  the wale being parallel to the gun ports especially as it runs aft, the extremely deep keel, and as mentioned above, the aligned ports.  

 

Allan   

PLEASE take 30 SECONDS and sign up for the epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series.   Click on http://trafalgar.tv   There is no cost other than the 30 seconds of your time.  THANK YOU

 

Posted

Allen

 

 

Thank you for your interest.

 

 

The wale is actually not parallel to the gun ports. The angle of the photos (even straight on) is skewing the perspective a bit. Also, the scale of the build (1:76.8) is an OK size but a distance of say 2" is barely 1/32" so it changes are slight. The gun ports actually rise moving fore to aft about a 1/16" of an inch as well.

 

 

The source material for the build is an acknowledged historical source(s) endorsement by a recognized and accredited organization.

 

 

The build is 9"-3/4" long, 6" high (hull) and 5"-3/4" at beam (6"-3/4") at widest point. Height when masted will be approximately 34" with a main yard (w/stunsils) at 19".

 

 

The keel in scale is only 12" deep from bottom of garboard strake.

 

 

Much work to do.............

 

 

Samuel

 

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Posted

For all those who have asked the build is the CONSTITUTION c. 1812 in 1:76.8 scale.

 

Tim Igoe is working with me on the project (testing my design) and will be producing a concurrent build thread.

 

Should be fun (famous last words)

 

Sam

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Posted

For all those who have asked the build is the CONSTITUTION c. 1812 in 1:76.8 scale.

 

Tim Igoe is working with me on the project (testing my design) and will be producing a concurrent build thread.

 

Should be fun (famous last words)

 

Sam

 

Ugh, now I cannot hide in obscurity.

 

:pirate41:

 

- Tim

Posted (edited)

For those of you who have asked my apologies for not responding sooner, the source material for the build are the plans of the PRESIDENT after capture and the deck drawings of the UNITED STATES. There will be some additional sources as the build progresses all on the recommendation of acknowledged experts on the subject.

 

A cradle was created for the hull out of plywood. Felt was glued onto the surfaces to offer a soft resting place and hold the hull firm.

 

Above the wales I placed 3 - 3/16" strakes. All 1/16" thick. They arrive just short of the gun port openings (apprx. 1/32") creating the sill reveal. Once the inner tongues are removed the gunports will be fully framed internally.

 

As all with the lower planking theses strakes were pre-sanded.

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Edited by samueljr

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Posted (edited)

The next area moving upward are the gun port stripes. To get a crisp paint finish a number of steps will be/were performed off the hull and prior to installation.

 

The area(s) around the  gun ports and their inner edges were painted. Additionally 4 - 1/8" x 1/16" strips were painted white, while 1 - 3/16" x 1/16" strip was painted black. All surfaces were sanded progressivley. The strips and hull area were given several thin (water consistancy) coats of paint with a very light sanding between coats (600 grit) and wiped down. After the final coat of paint a finish of wipe - on poly was applied. 

 

The colors used are Artist Acrylics, Titanium White for the stripe and instead of a deep or stark black (such as Mars Black) Paynes Gray was used. It is a duller black, almost sooty in apearence.

 

The white strips will be glued together off of the hull and then cut to length to fit between the gunports. The black strip will cap the installation. This will create a sharp definition between the black and white surfaces.  

 

Next up: installation of the strips

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Edited by samueljr

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Posted

As stated in a previous post the gun port stripes consist of 4 - 1/8" x 1/16" strips glued together off of the hull, progressively sanded and painted with several thin coats and then with a coat of wipe - on poly. They were cut to length (the reveal is on 1/32" on each side) the edges were painted white and then they were glued into place. The first and last piece(s) were left just a bit long and then sanded back into the hull.

 

Next Up - Planking the rest of the side

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Posted

I am quietly watching from the shadows Sam!!!!! One question did you thin the acrylics? I tried some last eve out of the tube and did not like the uneven cover. I have been a Floquil user in the past.  Hard to walk away from those results. Have experimented with Model Master acrylics with the same results as my wife's arcrylics..

Joe

Posted

The placing of ports one above the other bothered me, too, so I checked a little bit.  I think because the upper deck ports are on a spar deck and not part of the original structure of the hull, indeed some wind up directly above the gun deck ports, especially in the waist.

Posted

My thanks again to everyone for their interest and likes. The journey has just begun.

 

There has on several occassions been coment on the gun port alignment. 

 

It could be the angle of the photographs (for that I apologize) but the ports are not in line. 

 

Although they are not in the usual staggard sequence from deck to deck which most of us are used  to, they are correct as per the source material (the drawings of the PRESIDENT after capture as per the Admiralty)

 

I've attached an image of the drawings used for the build here and will later this evening upload an image of the PRESIDENT's port alignment.

 

Thanks - Sam

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Posted

Joe (Thistle17)

 

Yes, the acrylics were thinned as I was using them. A small dalop of paint was sqeezed out and my brush was dipped into water and then into the paint. Just a small portion of the paint was worked at a time until I had the consistancy that I wanted. Also if the paint went on a little too heavy I would wet brush it to spread it out. A gauge was that if I could see the paint filling in the joints between strakes it was too thick. 

 

It's best to practice a bit on some scrap.

 

I too am a former Floquil user. I loved their solvent based paints and still have a quite a few left. I don't have much need for them as the color palette of my more recent projects have been limited.

 

Sam 

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