USS Constitution by kmart - Model Shipways - scale 1/76

[k-mart]

When I last was working on her, I had made the widows for the stern and quarter gallery.     I cleaned them up and now they fit much better in place.  ready to be painted white.  I also added the eyebrows ??  over the gun-ports.  Hard to see but they're there.

 

[k-mart]

And the chain plates are all ready to glue on.   Right now they are just pinned in  No glue.  I have several brass wires in the edge that go into holes in the hull.   Guarantees I mount in right position but also will add strength.   I kind of want to glue them in now... so I can finish  painting them + the top of the bulk works black.  Cons is they're still fragile and exposed...subject to being hit and backing while working on the rest of the hull/ decks.    I probably will sooner.  I think the logical  order to progress is to:

1) completely  finish everything on the  exterior hull... 

2) Bow and stern ornamentation

3) Then copper the bottom.   

4) Then go back and detail the gun deck.   

5) Then compete gun-ports

[k-mart]

Gun port:  So the photo edge parts that came with kit for gunport lid hinges  are just long enough to cover the lid.  Fine if your going to have lids closed, but  not long enough to have tabs to actually glue on open position.  So I will try to make my own hinges. (non -functioning).  I'll make them long enough that I can bend the ends and use to glue to gun port frames.     I took 0.51 mm brass rod/  small hammer and anvil and pounded it flat.   Cam out right thickness, width as the photo etched parts...  just longer.   

 

 

cut them to length and then glued to the lids

 

Started to paid them white.    Painting with an airbrush (new to me).    Also paining the stern windows frame.

 

 

 

 

 

[JSGerson]

Very nicely done.  Just be extra careful once the gun port lids are installed onto the hull. I would wait until the last possible moment before installing them. The open lids are fragile and are easily knocked off.

 

Are you going to paint the interior face of the lids black like the contemporary images show?

 

Jon

Edited March 20, 2022 by JSGerson

[Bill Morrison]

On 3/1/2022 at 10:16 PM, k-mart said:

I can't believe its been two years since my last post.  Took a pause in model building due to life events.   Switched jobs. sold house moved 1000 miles away. Spend year looking for new house.  Bought new house...settled in.    Now I'm finally back to where I can work on my models again.    Unboxed my Connie and she's just as I left her 2 years ago.   No damage... Ready to start again.  Next post I'll show pics before I start to work on her and of my new hobby space. 

And I need to catch up on the other Connie build logs on this forum.   

 

Been there, done that.  24 US Navy veteran.  I love your Connie!

 

Bill

[Papa]

I spent the first 20 years of my life living less than 10 miles from the USS Constitution and never once visited.  Why not?  I have no idea. For that matter, I was 15 before i even ventured into the City of Boston.  

[k-mart]

On 3/20/2022 at 12:10 PM, JSGerson said:

Very nicely done.  Just be extra careful once the gun port lids are installed onto the hull. I would wait until the last possible moment before installing them. The open lids are fragile and are easily knocked off.

 

Are you going to paint the interior face of the lids black like the contemporary images show?

 

Jon

Thanks Jon.   I'm going to make sure my technique works on 4 lids first.    Then I'll prep the remaining 26  but not install until later.  Probably install them around same time as chain plates.   

 

Yes.  going with black lids on outboard side.   Bent the hinges.  I think this will work well.

 

[k-mart]

Bill,  thank you.  And thanks for your service.

 

Papa  " spent the first 20 years of my life living less than 10 miles from the USS Constitution and never once visited.  Why not?  I have no idea. For that matter, I was 15 before i even ventured into the City of Boston.  "

I lived about 30 ,miles from her when I was in MA.  Made sure to visit at least 2x a year.     Definitely worth the visit.  She is inspiring.   Pics and models don't do her justice.

 

Now my update.   you got to love a hobby that you can spend  hours and hours at a time .. and the progress is just measured in  gluing a few pieces together.....    And people wonder my models take  years and years to complete 1 model.  lol.

 

Installed the painted windows into the galleys and stern.

I used micro Krystal Clear for the "glass"   up close it looks to thick.   but from any distance it looks decent.

Didn't add Krystal to stern windows yet.   

 

 

 

 

 

 

Next up is some of the trim

 

 

I'll start with the three lowest pieces that run the width of the stern.    The laser cut kit pieces are 1/16  x 1/16.  But that wont give the look as in the picture.   And I think the kit supplied pieces looks too big/thick.    I'm going to glue a strip of 1/32 x 1/32  to a 1/16 x 1/32.   So the width stays 1/16  but Hight will be 1/16.   For reference the window sashes are 1/32 wide.   The remaining trim pieces  I plan to use 1/32 wide.   

 

I have the strips for the lower pieces glued and drying now.   hopefully I'll have time to paint them this week  so I can install next weekend.

 

      

[k-mart]

A quick update.   Nothing exciting.  Prepping the all the trim pieces for the stern / quarter galleries.

 

This is a 1/16 x 1/32  glued to a piece 1/32 x 1/32  will be used for the three lowest horizontal pieces that go across the stern.  (Above and below the ships name and then down under the rudder hole

   

 

Jigs, and then steamed pieces for the round pieces port and starboard where the stars go

Needed two,  One for the inner piece and one for the outer.

 

 

 

Jig for making trim around the quarter galleys

 

 

 

 

All the random trim pieces being prepped/ painted.. etc.

 

 

 

That's it for today.  Need to give them all several coats of paint and let thoroughly dry for the week.

Hopefully by next weekend I might be able to start attaching to stern.

 

 

[k-mart]

So started adding those bits to the stern and quarter galley.   

Will need to do a lot of paint touch up and removing some of the excess dry glue

But she is starting to look like she is supposed to.

 

 

 

 

Been trying to figure out how to lay out the top half of the stern.  I think I figured it out.

 

I think I'm going to put two more white  (curved) horizontal pieces.   Indicated by the read arrows

Then I will open the stern ports.  They are already  framed in... just planked over at the moment.   And Mine are spaced a bit further apart than the diagram.

I don't have the skill to make all that scroll work.  so I will omit those.    Plus my stern is a bit tight, Not as high as in the pic so I don't think I'd have room for them anyhow.

And I'll use the kit eagle  which fits perfectly between my stern ports.

 

For the stars... I found a sheet of  various sized white stars   wet transfer ebay  (about $6).  The kind used for plastic models.    I'll  have to experiment if it sticks to wood.   But they look the right size 1/16" for the small and 1/8" for the larger.

 

For the ship name.. I found a sheet of white alphabet stickers 1/4" high at Hobby Lobby $1.       It looks perfect size and close enough to the right font.  Trick will be keeping then straight and properly spaced.

The stars and name I'll just have to practice a lot  off ship before I attempt to put on stern.  

 

 

[JSGerson]

Your Conny is coming along nicely. You might want to look at how I made my nameplate (see post #611). It's similar to the way you plan to do yours.

[k-mart]

On 4/16/2022 at 9:42 AM, JSGerson said:

Your Conny is coming along nicely. You might want to look at how I made my nameplate (see post #611). It's similar to the way you plan to do yours.

Hey Jon.  I did check out how you did your Nameplate.  got some ideas from it.    Thanks. 

Question.  You mentioned when you did the eagle on the transom, you have a file with a scale image of the shield on his chest that you can print out?    Any chance I could borrow that file?  I can make on my own via MS Visio  but it will take a lot of trial and error.  

[k-mart]

 

Used word to size the name on the back.   After playing with point size and point spacing between characters... got it to match ones from pans.

 

Also have the stern gun port locations/size  shown

Ports cut open.

Lined up the location of the name.   Then applied the 1/4 "  self stick lettering following the printed template.

Also added the curved horizontal piece under gun ports.

 

 

Names not perfect but overall I'm pleased with how it came out.

I have one last curved horizontal white strip that will curve to go just over the gun ports

Then the Eagle.         (Both are being painted now)

My star decals are in the mail.  The smaller stars should be interesting (err challenging to add) being sooo tiny   2mm

Then final cleanup /paint touch up  and  stern and quarter galleries I'll call complete.

 

*Note, Many versions of the stern have the baulistrauds?   between the windows on both stern and quarter galleries.    I was originally planning to add those.    But now that I'm this far along and can actually see the stern and spacing... I think it would just look too crowded to put those it.  I like the clean look without.   So I'll leave those off.  Probably not as accurate/authentic....  but at this scale, I think it looks better without. (an omission of a detail does not make it inaccurate.  That's my story and I'm sticking to it 😉  )

 

*Note 2:   Also in my constant googling / research .  I did run across the HMS Trincomalee

Definitely a lot of similarities to the the version of Connie's stern I'm going for.

 

 

 

 

 

[JJUSNRET]

kmart - Thank You so very much for the ideas and details.  I have the MSW kit and copying to file.  Currently working CW Morgan but Constitution is next.  Most helpful!!!  JJ

[JJUSNRET]

JJ so I can follow.  Thanks again!

[JSGerson]

I hope you got my PM with the file you requested. I have another file for the shield on the trailboard. It will be a while before I get to that point as I've started to copper plate the hull first. BTW, those are not gun ports opening on either side of the rudder. They lead into the berth deck steering mechanism space, although I haven't been able to identify the opening from any inside photos I've found. My guess the openings are used for ventilation and for emergency steering ropes that could be attach to the rudder if need be.

[k-mart]

Jon,  thanks for the shield image.

 

My amazon order of waterslide stars came in.  I think these were intended for use with WW II Army vehicles models.  But they worked out perfect for my need.

So it took awhile .  They were tiny.  Even with magnifier headset and very small tweezers it was a challenge.

But the results came out really well. 

I still need to coat it with Valejjo clear matt to seal the waterslides in.

And a bunch of paint touch up is needed.

Trim molding on Quarters in on as well.

 

 

[GrandpaPhil]

Looking good!

[k-mart]

Started the head rails.   Only minor update this time.  

Spent more time figuring out how to make them than actually working on them.

Decided to "try" to make each headrail as one solid piece instead of multiple.

Need to fit that corner piece in square where hull meets the bow.

and then bend the actual rail up to curve around the shape of the scrollwork.

So basically fitting curves in 3 dimensions.

And another challenge,  the ends of the rails narrow in both width and thickness as it nears the top of the scrollwork

• Used this tool (don't know the name of it)  to get the proper curves off the hull where the headrails meet the bow.
• Needed to take 4 measurements.  1 on each side,  for both upper and lower rails
• Transferred curve's to paper.    Combined that with the template on the plans for the headrail.
• Then rough cut them out on a piece of 1/8" basswood
• Cleaned them up a bit

 

Next session, I'm make a jig, steam the long ends and bend them to match the curve of the scrollwork on bow

 

 

 

 

 

 

[LyleK1]

15 hours ago, k-mart said:

 

• Used this tool (don't know the name of it)  to get the proper curves off the hull where the headrails meet the bow.

It’s called a contour gauge!

 

Good idea!

[k-mart]

So work slowly continues on the bow.

Making the blocks that go on the hull where the Anchors rode (rope) goes into the hull.  Hawse pipe block??

You would think this small piece of wood would be easy.  But it wasn't.    

• Getting the curve to match the hull curve isn't too bad.   
• 1st challenge is this board straddles the top of the whale.
• The whale goes from raised to flush with the side f the hull as it approaches the bow.
• So in order to sit flat on the hull its actually two pieces laminated together.   The inner piece sits flush on top of the whale. and tappers to nothing as it approaches the bow
• Second piece (top piece) is full height.  
• Next challenge is the actual length.  This is critical because it will determine where the 5th support is for the 3rd and 4th headrails and the corresponding cross brace that supports the gratings
  • Because the plans are 2D.   its not easy to really tell on plans the proper length of the piece

 

 

The backside that fits the whale

 

Cut and fit including the hole for the hawse

 

cut the corresponding holes in the hull.

Port attached.

I finally judged the proper length (I hope) by using the relationship of the aft end of the board to the form most lower gun port. (on gundeck.)   upper port is for accessing head

Both sides seem to match

Headrails 1 and 2 will butt the top and bottom edge of this board.

 

Had already made the headrails,  but I further cleaned them up.

Further tapered them both width and depth as approach the top of the bow 

 

 

To bend them I put them in a closed Tupperware container with some water.  Then microwave for 4 minutes.

Basically steam them.   Basswood  actually bends fairly easy once steamed.

 

I made a jig that has same curvature as the outside of the lower first rail

Below is the lower rail #1 in the jig.

Let it dry for a day or two and it will hold the shape

 

 

 

And I'll end here for now.  Have to go back to the day job.  Hopefully more modeling next weekend.

 

.  

 

[k-mart]

Progress on the headrails continues

Have the upper, lower rails attached.

Also fitted the hawse holes fittings.

Yes, scuffed up the paint good from the clamps.  Will repaint after all the rails are in place.

 

Currently making Rails 3 and 4

In third picture, on fare left you can see the small opening cut for the cat head.   This in needed now to  determine location for 3 rail where it terminus supports the cathead.

 

Happy 4th  everyone!

 

 

 

 

 

 

[k-mart]

Way overdue for a post.   Have been working on the bow, headrails.   

They are not easy.  I remade  each of  the rail pairs  at least 4 times before I got them acceptable. 

The "braces" for the rail were also difficult.    besides getting the angle and positions right.   They are small.   So when you cut the notches out for the rails.. they break

 

Soo starting with the hawse holes.   

Made the curved piece the hawse holes set in. 

 

Basically made of two pieces each.   Because it sits over the wale   , on the back side there are two levels in order to fit flat on the hull

Carefully positioned and drilled the hawse holes.   In order not to split the piece.. started with a pilot hole and gradually kept going with a larger bit.

 

On the hull over the lowest rail

 

My jury rigged clamps to add the 2nd rail

 

And post clamps

 

 

Next  making supports for the third and fourth rails as well as the rails themselves 

This took me many attempts to get all these pieces right.   

 

 

Note the suppots kept breaking at the notches.  

To get around this... each peice is actually made of 3 pieces glued together.

With the grain of each piece rotated.  ie micro homemade plywood.    each layer was 1/32 thick.

so x3 is 3/32.    Once sanded down.. its the proper 1/8 thickness.

 

Supports on the hull

 

 

 

Steamed Rail #3  and another crazy jig to bend the curve's in boy Y and Z axis

 

  Unbelievably.. it actually fits properly  Whoo Hooo

 

 

Basically repeated the process for the 4th rail

 

From the bow.   More or less symmetrical.  The port side rails lowest two rails are symmetrical on the stem piece,,,, but the knees on the hull port side is a little low.   

I can live with it.   It wont be obvious to most.  wont notice it.  (Still bugs me though)

 

 

Overhead shot

 

 

Adding the cross supports.  

I know there is also supposed to be a tie rod between the braces.   I decided to leave them off.

Really cant be seen once head gratings are on.   And I didn't want to drill through the headrails.  

 

 

[k-mart]

Soo   Next I'll paint all of the above black.

 

Then I'll work on the boomkins.   The pieces themselves don't appear hard to make.    60mm x 1/8" x 1/8"  piece with some chambering at the end.

My challenge is I cant find any good pictures or plans on positioning them.   The Model Expo plans doesn't show any detail on this.   I know it goes between 3rd and 4th rail.

And between support #5 and #4.    It terminates at the hull, where it meets stem.    I can get the off hull angle x,z plane off the plans.  

My question is ... are the boomkins horizontal and parallel with the waterline....  OR do they angle up or down in the vertical (Y plane).   I cant tell from any picture or diagram.   Pictures I have of the real ship does not even have them on the ship.    I

 

 

Question #2.   How do everyone paint their Headboard?     its white scroll work over black.    If I paint either the back or white first... I loose the marks for being able to paint the scrollwork.

 

 

[JSGerson]

K-mart, I'm just starting my head rails and I am studying everyone build logs to get the best methods. Yours is on my list.

 

Question #1, here as some photos from the 1927 restoration which clearly show the boomkin is horizontal and parallel to the waterline.

Question #2, The white piping is raised slightly above the base. Some people use white painted 1/32" x 1/32" wood strips, others like shown in Mr. Hunt's Practicum use vinyl strips. Technically, if you look closely, the piping is painted just on the surface.

 

I hope this is what you've been looking for.

 

Note: You will also see that the cathead and bumpkins are moved aft in the 1927 images from what is shown in the plans, which supposedly are based on the 1927 restoration.

Edited October 2, 2022 by JSGerson

[k-mart]

Jon,  Thanks for those reference shots...  They help a lot.    I can see the bumkins as well.     

 

 

 

More update.  

Note:  I plan to hold off on the final cap  rail and those covering boards between the Top rail and the 4th rail.

Eventually I'll get to the inner (green) bulk works, before I add the caprail.  Will finish that last pieces of the headrail then.  

 

First I painted all the rails black.   As you can see in the pic.... paint is really rough, even though rails were sanded prior to painting.     

I did wind up sanding the rails post paining with 200 grit (After pic was taken).  White stripe still needs some touch up as well.   Very hard to reach with the rails there.

 

 

I decided to use 1/64 inch wide architecture tape for the stripes.  Found it on Amazon.   About $7 bucks for a single small roll.   

Only tape I found that small.    Didn't want to try to glue anything on (wood or styrene strip) as I think they would be very hard to position.  Tape  lets me peal off and try again / reposition as needed until its positioned right.

 

The question is how long will tape stay attached. (long term)    I do plan to clear coat (matt) it when its done.  Hopefully that helps

 

Note 1/64 is real tiny.   It wasn't as hard to work with as I expected, but its a good deal of eyestrain and close up work. Good magnifiers required!    And its all against black so bright, direct lighting is needed to clearly see the edges of the rails.

It turned out better than I had hoped for.  Especially at the very end where they all converge.  The bow ends of each rail is < 3/64" wide.  With 1/64th tape   you can still see distinct stripes (not overlapping) with a sliver of black between at the foremost end.

 

Only have the Starboard side done so far.

 

 

Alternated between the stripes and the carvings.

First scanned the carvings onto the PC just in case I screw up the painting.   

Painted the carvings white first.  then when back filled in the black.

 

Its very slow going.   Took several multi hour sessions and am still working on it.

Will definatly need some touch up before there acceptable.   II suck at freehand painting details.... Grrr.

 

 

Final shot for this session.   (carvings not glued in yet)

 

 

 

 

[k-mart]

Making steady progress.

not sure of their proper name but been working on the head boards.... that fits between the 4th rail and top rail.

Decided to make them off ship and then place them in postion after there all made and painted.

 

• First.. used a contour guide and traced the shape of the area for the headboards on some heave computer paper.
• Edge glued enough planks together proper size of template.
• Template was close enough to use for both port and starboard.
• Just cut pieces a bit larger and trimmed to proper side size.

 

 

Added stiffeners.    Not the top and bottom edges of stiffeners need to be cut at angle in order to sit flush against the rails.   This piece is angled outboard on the top edge.

 

Added the top rail next.

This needed to be steamed and bent in a jig.   (Just slighly)     in order to fit flat against the bow bulwarks and then curve up to the stem.

While the curve isn't that much... there is not a lot of surface area to glue against.      easier to steam the wood and not have to force it, soo as  to not  have stress on the glue joint. 

 

 

Cleanedd up head boards and test fit.

Painted  and glued it.

 

I have also been working on the head gratings in parallels.    They were fitted (but not glued) before putting the side boards in.   just easier than trying in that tight area afterwards. Still need to stain to the right color and work on the head seats.

 

I'll post pictures of those next time.

 

I'm just about ready to declare the bow done (for now) 

Next up.... start the hull coppering.

 

 

 

.  

 

[k-mart]

Next update:  Bottom Coppering under way.   over two weekends,   made significant progress.. From 0 to up to the first Gore line.

 

• I'm not doing individual  plates.
• I mass produce about about 12 strips at a time. 
• Working on both sides in parallels.  2 strakes on port then 2 on starboard.   That will help keep them symmetrical. 
• Each strip about 10" long.   Need three strips for one strake bow to stern
• Made a simple jig for scoring the plates using my cutting mat..  just put in lines  using masking tape on the mat, spaced for each plate.   Then where to crore was all layed out.    Jut lay strip on mat.... follow the marks. 
• Each strip  I score "gently"  with a knife.  to simulate individual planks.
  • Took me a few practice trial runs to figure out right pressure to score but not cut the copper.
• Then use seamstress wheel to add all the nail heads.
• One I get into a rhythm takes me an hour to prepare the 12 strips. 
• I wore medical latex gloves when doing all the copper work.   
  • minimized fingerprints on the copper. 
  • plus as the latex is smooth, you can use your fingers to really press the tape down flat.. especially the edges where they overlap.
•  Used my waterline marker to mark where each gore line goes
• The tape near the waterline is the top gore that goes up to the black paint

 

First four days of work

• 

It gets faster as you go along.

I mass produced the strips a few at a time on the weekdays after work .

Then I went from the above pic to all the rest of the way to the gore line this past weekend.  (as the strips were all prepped in advance)

Up to the first gore line

Top view

 

Bow:

Camera + direct lighting make the plates look far more  wrinkled then you notice with bare eyes from any distance

 

Managed to get buy with only two fillers/stealer pieces .  One in bow   one at sten.  Yes match on both sides.

If you look close you can see both of them

 

Overall,  I think it came out decent.

Viewed from the side.... The gore line looks nice and  level with both table and waterline

 

That's the roughed out future/final stand for her.   So that's how she will sit when eventually finished.

They  screw into bottom of keel into a threaded fitting.

 

 

 

 

It will take me at least a few more weekends ( probably a month)  to finish up to the waterline.  

That's it for now.

K

 

 

[JSGerson]

Very nice clean look. Well done.

Jon

[k-mart]

So  another milestone reached.  Coppering the bottom is done.

I'm fairly happy how it came out.    It was not as easy and there are some significant mistakes if you look closely enough.  but from a viewing distance.. they are not obvious.   

 

 

Edited December 28, 2022 by k-mart