Eric W Posted January 27, 2018 #1 Posted January 27, 2018 Joining a distinguished club on MSW. Jumping into my first plank on bulkhead after two solid hull builds. russ and Ryland Craze 2 Quote
Eric W Posted January 27, 2018 Author #2 Posted January 27, 2018 So far I am impressed with the parts. The bulkhead former is very straight. Ryland Craze, kuya and russ 3 Quote
Eric W Posted January 27, 2018 Author #3 Posted January 27, 2018 Formed and glued the rabbet to the BF. Now to research this whole "shaping the rabbet". kier, russ and Dutchman 3 Quote
Peter Bloemendaal Posted January 28, 2018 #4 Posted January 28, 2018 Hi Eric, Welcome to the Syren club and enjoy the journey. Peter. Quote Current Build: USF Confederacy 1778 - Model Shipways - 1:64 Completed: US Brig Syren - Model Shipways - 1:64 San Francisco Cross Section - Artesania Latina - 1:50 Future build: HM Granado - Caldercraft - 1:64 LeRenard - Artesania Latina - 1:50
Nirvana Posted January 28, 2018 #5 Posted January 28, 2018 Eric, Warm welcome to the Syren world.... Quote Please, visit our Facebook page! Respectfully Per aka Dr. Per@Therapy for Shipaholics Finished: T37, BB Marie Jeanne - located on a shelf in Sweden, 18th Century Longboat, Winchelsea Capstan Current: America by Constructo, Solö Ruff, USS Syren by MS, Bluenose by MS Viking funeral: Harley almost a Harvey Nautical Research Guild Member - 'Taint a hobby if you gotta hurry
fnkershner Posted January 28, 2018 #6 Posted January 28, 2018 Let me be another person to welcome you to the club. Good luck. you have quite a journey ahead of you. Quote Current Builds - 18th Century Longboat, MS Syren Completed Builds - MS Bluenose, Panart BatteStation Cross section, Endevour J Boat Half Hull, Windego Half Hull, R/C T37 Breezing Along, R/C Victoria 32, SolCat 18 On the shelf - Panart San Felipe, Euromodel Ajax, C.Mamoli America, Its a sailor's Life for me!
Eric W Posted February 7, 2018 Author #7 Posted February 7, 2018 I think I got the rabbet line set. I have 1/16" on both sides. I like Chuck's Idea of setting the rabbet strip in between the stem and keel. fnkershner, kier, russ and 2 others 5 Quote
Eric W Posted February 7, 2018 Author #8 Posted February 7, 2018 Setting the figurehead seems to be a ubiquitous part of Syren blogs, so I did not want to disappoint. I have a wee gap behind the head and may need filler, or should I work the taper more? She looks good everywhere else. russ, fnkershner, AntonyUK and 1 other 4 Quote
AntonyUK Posted February 7, 2018 #9 Posted February 7, 2018 Hello Eric. This is going to be a complete change for you building a plank on bulkhead model. The good thing about this kit is that there is a lot of excellent builds here on MSW. Will follow along from the beginning with this build. Regards Antony. Eric W 1 Quote Best advice ever given to me."If you don't know ..Just ask. Completed Mayflower Completed Fun build Tail boat Tailboat Completed Build Chinese Junk Chinese Pirate Junk Completed scratch built Korean Turtle ship 1/32 Turtle ship Completed Santa Lucia Sicilian Cargo Boat 1/30 scale Santa Lucia On hold. Bounty Occre 1/45 Completed HMS Victory by DeAgostini modelspace. DeAgostini Victory Cross Section Completed H.M.S. Victory X section by Coral. HMS Victory cross section Completed The Black Pearl fun build Black Queen Completed A large scale Victory cross section 1/36 Victory Cross Section
Eric W Posted February 8, 2018 Author #10 Posted February 8, 2018 Thanks Antony. The support on MSW is very good. Quote
Eric W Posted February 17, 2018 Author #11 Posted February 17, 2018 So, after reading through a couple of logs, it seems quite a few folks are gluing the bulkheads to the BF prior to bevelling and fairing them. Yet the instructions say to bevel prior to installation. I also have quite at bit of play in my bulkheads, but I think that will be fixed with the filler pieces. Be happy to get some opinions on this issue. Ryland Craze and russ 2 Quote
russ Posted February 17, 2018 #12 Posted February 17, 2018 Eric: You should consider bracing the bulkheads to keep them square while the glue sets. Maybe clamp a machinist's square to the former to hold the bulkhead square while the glue dries. You could use a scrap wood block as well. Just something that square that you can clamp to both the bulkhead and the former to keep them square while the glue dries. After the bulkheads are glued in and the glue has dried hard, definitely glue filler blocks in between the bulkheads to help stiffen the hull. I would glue them in closer to the outside of the hull because that is where the most stress will be as you work on the hull. However, you could use blocks that are glued to the former and the bulkheads. The main thing is stiffen the bulkheads. As for beveling the bulkheads, if you can lay out the bevels on the bulkheads accurately then you can do some beveling before gluing them in, but I would not try to do it all. Always take off less than you think you should. It is easier to remove a little more but it is difficult to put it back on. Once the bulkheads are glued in and everything is nice and stiff, then you can do the final beveling. That is why those stiffeners between the bulkheads will come in so handy. Hope this helps. Russ Nirvana 1 Quote T'aint a hobby if you hurry Completed projects Cross section model by Russ 1/48 scale Biloxi schooner model restoration 1/24 scale Biloxi oyster skiff 1/24 scale Biloxi schooner 1/48 scale POB Current project Biloxi lugger Captain Roy 1/48 scale POB
Eric W Posted February 17, 2018 Author #13 Posted February 17, 2018 Thanks Russ, that definitely helps. Quote
svein erik Posted February 18, 2018 #14 Posted February 18, 2018 Hi erik this is wat I did on my syren I bockup the intire hull Svein.erik GrantGoodale, Nirvana and kier 3 Quote
Eric W Posted February 19, 2018 Author #15 Posted February 19, 2018 Wow Svein, it looks just like a solid hull build. The lines look very nice though. Quote
Eric W Posted February 19, 2018 Author #16 Posted February 19, 2018 I am using these great sanding stylus from Lumberton Industries. They come in four different grades of coarseness. I think several people have come up on the net in various build logs with trepidation about going at the bulkheads with chisels. I am definitely in that camp. The sanding belts on each stylus are about a quarter inch wide, so they work great on the bulkheads. Quote
Eric W Posted February 19, 2018 Author #17 Posted February 19, 2018 Going with Russ' advice and bracing each bulkhead with a 1 5/16" block. Looks like it is working pretty good so far. Nirvana 1 Quote
Jim Rogers Posted February 19, 2018 #18 Posted February 19, 2018 Like Svien I basically build a solid hull. This does a couple of things IMO it makes fairing easier as you are sanding a solid hull AND it provides a completely solid base for deck planking allowing a good spacing pattern. fnkershner, Nirvana and Ryland Craze 3 Quote Regards, Jim Rogers Damn the Torpedoes , Full speed ahead. Adm David Farragut.
Eric W Posted February 20, 2018 Author #19 Posted February 20, 2018 Thanks Jim. I see what you mean with the the photo. That certainly would be a good idea for the deck planking. I also like how you have left the bulkheads somewhat exposed. Quote
fnkershner Posted February 20, 2018 #20 Posted February 20, 2018 PS Jim what an amazing Shipyard! I really enjoyed my visit. Quote Current Builds - 18th Century Longboat, MS Syren Completed Builds - MS Bluenose, Panart BatteStation Cross section, Endevour J Boat Half Hull, Windego Half Hull, R/C T37 Breezing Along, R/C Victoria 32, SolCat 18 On the shelf - Panart San Felipe, Euromodel Ajax, C.Mamoli America, Its a sailor's Life for me!
Jim Rogers Posted February 20, 2018 #21 Posted February 20, 2018 Any time shipmate fnkershner 1 Quote Regards, Jim Rogers Damn the Torpedoes , Full speed ahead. Adm David Farragut.
Eric W Posted February 27, 2018 Author #22 Posted February 27, 2018 Here are a couple shots of the bulkhead fillers that I was able to get done over the weekend. I am going with balsa since it is pretty malleable and light, yet I think it will sufficiently stiffen the bulkheads. I am sticking with the praticum's suggestion of about 1" by 2" for the filler blocks. These are only dry fitted so far. fnkershner 1 Quote
Eric W Posted March 18, 2018 Author #23 Posted March 18, 2018 I was able to glue in the bukhead fillers, but I think I was a little too cautious about fairing the bulkheads first. I have quite a ways to go between P and N in the bow. Peter Bloemendaal, fnkershner and Nirvana 3 Quote
russ Posted March 18, 2018 #24 Posted March 18, 2018 Eric: Cautious is good. I always try to take off less than I think I should. It is easier to take off a little more than it is to try and put it back on after taking off too much. You are doing good so far. Russ Nirvana, fnkershner and svein erik 3 Quote T'aint a hobby if you hurry Completed projects Cross section model by Russ 1/48 scale Biloxi schooner model restoration 1/24 scale Biloxi oyster skiff 1/24 scale Biloxi schooner 1/48 scale POB Current project Biloxi lugger Captain Roy 1/48 scale POB
Eric W Posted March 26, 2018 Author #25 Posted March 26, 2018 Getting a little bit better form today. Ryland Craze and kier 2 Quote
Eric W Posted March 26, 2018 Author #26 Posted March 26, 2018 At the sixth bulkhead (center of the photo below) I have noticed a bit of a bulge. My concern is the upper portion is already at 1/8" of an inch. I think it needs to be brought in a bit though. fnkershner and Ryland Craze 2 Quote
Eric W Posted April 15, 2018 Author #27 Posted April 15, 2018 (edited) Okay, I think it's time to jump into the deep end of the pool and move onto Chapter Three. Edited April 18, 2018 by Eric W fnkershner, svein erik and Peter Bloemendaal 3 Quote
Eric W Posted April 24, 2018 Author #28 Posted April 24, 2018 Finished fairing and marking the lower port sill with the batten this weekend. Got two pieces of the sill cut and rough fitted. Probably going to need a little spackle to make a nice joint. JpR62, Peter Bloemendaal, kier and 1 other 4 Quote
Eric W Posted December 17, 2018 Author #29 Posted December 17, 2018 (edited) Suprise, I did not in fact quit the build, just had a bit of a hiatus over the summer. Spent last couple months building the port sills and lintels and sanding them in place. I think I may have sanded myself into a bit of a corner on the two forward most gun port sill pieces on the starboard side. Specifically how they are bowed around the second bulwark. Can that be hidden by the inner planks later, or should I try to fill it now? Edited December 17, 2018 by Eric W Misspelling svein erik and Tigersteve 2 Quote
Eric W Posted January 13, 2019 Author #30 Posted January 13, 2019 (edited) Closing out the weekend with the gun ports and sweep ports framed. I also started the initial sanding on them. I took Chuck's advice and sanded a bit in between each color frame. This gradual process definitely works well. Also, for the sweep ports, I used some leftover 1/8 x 3/8 basswood. Cutting at 3/16 gave me the perfect width. With that, I just had to sand or cut for length. Edited January 13, 2019 by Eric W Tom E, smarra, Sea Hoss and 2 others 5 Quote
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