Santisima Trinidad by md1400cs – FINISHED - OcCre - 1/90 - cross-section - bashed

[CaptainSteve]

Michael. Some time back I found these little lanterns, as produced by MSW member Timbers_B_Shiverin. He has made his to 1:64 scale, but I am sure you could scale them to suit your own size. I have made some rudimentary attempts to produce a lantern at 1:76 scale for my Constitution (still working on that little side project). I used the plastic sleeve from the tip of a paintbrush, pushing the LED down inside of the sleeve. 

Edited April 28, 2018 by CaptainSteve
Corrected hyperlink.

[NMBROOK]

Excellent work Michael.Two suggestions re lanterns.One is to cast them with the LED inside using clear casting resin.Other option would be to buy larger LEDS and file to shape.The body is clear epoxy I believe so should shape and polish with files and wet and dry abrasive.

Kind Regards

Nigel

[md1400cs]

 

Hi Mates,

 

Martyn: Nice idea indeed.

Oops – I have fallen behind on your log – need to fix that 

 

Captain Steve: Thanks as well – lot’s of excellent work. Plastic sleeve is a clever idea!!

 

Nigel: great idea – my skills make me a bit unsure of this very clever solution.

 ========================== 

 The lighting subject is interesting as well as a new to be learned skill. Appreciate all the advice that you are all posting.

 

 PLAN: the hold, and storage decks one will hang from above (center). In the two gun decks I will attach two to each wall per side. So will need 10 lights in all. Will need to make some sort of housings as well.

 

First decision is what types to purchase.

 

• Some have shrunk wrap connectors.

•Some are rectangular but also have bulky (for my purposes) wires.

• Colors warm white or yellow?

• Flickering (random) or steady light?

 

If I were adding these to within the hull it would not be such a dilemma. For this cross section all the lights themselves will be visible. So wiring with shrink wrap could be an issue

 

• The Nano or pico might be the best.

 

I spoke with a very nice person at Model Train Software. He also said that I could purchase soft white and then purchase yellow Galley Glass paint. A product used by stain glass hobbyists. I could apply as many coats of this translucent paint as needed to create the yellowish lighting that I specifically wanted.

 

I think that I will go with the Nano or Pico style of LED – those will allow for the stealthiest wiring installation.

 

Also leaning towards flickering yellow to avoid experimenting with yellow paints.

 

Will also purchase the 3V outputs attaching all the lights to that very smart button battery housing that also has an on and off switch. The lights are already at 3V set-ups.

 ===========================

 After receiving the lights I will think of how to make the housings.

 

 Here are various photos from Model Train Software. AND The last photo might be great for some ships as stern lanterns

 

[BLACK VIKING]

Hi Michael I plan not to use wires but copper tape so I can hide them under the deck and between the beams. I have been looking for dolls house lanterns but haven't found any the right size yet but will let you know if I do 

Martyn 

[md1400cs]

Martyn,

Yes copper tape is also a good solution. In my case were I to completely plank all the decks I would also prefer tape.

I might be trying to do a bit too much with this current build. 

 

Michiel sent me this link a bit closer for you - They ave a lot of choices for LED lights

 

http://www.expressmodels.co.uk/acatalog/WHITE_LEDs.html

 

[EJ_L]

I'm  little late to the discussion but, I went with the flickering amber lights on my interior work on SR. They are the same ones I have used for simulating campfires on my model railroad and I think look very nice as they give the space that orange, fire glow. The flickering is I think important for a flame sourced light. As for the lantern, mine (though a bit large for the scale) are made from air line tubing for the glass and wood trimmed to make the frames. Nothing fancy but they serve their purpose. I think you could probably scratch something together easily enough. The wiring is small enough that you should be able to run it inside the framework with little trouble.

 

Be sure to plan where the wires are going to exit and what will turn them on and off! I have mine exiting the bottom of the hull and will travel down the stand in to the display case bottom. There it will connect to a switch/battery compartment for the power and easy access for on/off.

 

Good luck! Looking forward to your new improvements!

[md1400cs]

E.J: thanks for you thoughts as well. Yes you are also correct flickering is indeed the correct style of lights to include.

 

That said, in this case they won’t work for this cross-section. The available flickering added tech, at the base of the LED, along with the bulky shrink-wrap make them too large and bulky for this particular very visible application.

 

 

Intended locations for both gun decks are here – both sides

 

 

So ordered these super tiny Pico in yellow.

 

 

Captain Steve: I sure like your idea of using paint brush sleeves –Thanks for the tip. Ordered some tubing from Amazon

1.5mm id - 3mm od.

 

 

 

I will play around and make lanterns that look something like this one (From AMC “The Terror” series).

 

 

Again mates thanks for you advice and suggestions.

 

Regards,

 

 

 

 

[NMBROOK]

Michael there is a useful guide to Leds on this website,this is where I get my LEDS and various other items for my RC builds.

https://www.componentshop.co.uk/

Kind Regards

Nigel

P.S. make sure you follow the guide to voltage,required voltage varies with the colour of the LED,too low it won't work,too high it will blow.This is why you quite often have to incorporate resistors in the circuit.

[md1400cs]

Nigel,

 

As always thanks so much for your continued advice. Yes voltage is an aspect that I am just learning about. This vender, it appears, has

incorporated voltage choices for the consumer. Here is a link to the available pre-volted purchase choices. Easy for novices such as I.

 

https://www.modeltrainsoftware.com/smd-chip-leds.html

 

Do appreciate the advice,

PS: Glad that you are back active in your yard!

 

Cheers,

[Baker]

Great build Michael,

 

And a beautiful new profile photo  

 

 

[md1400cs]

Hi Mates,

 

Patrick: thanks so kind - especially from such a perfectionist such as yourself  . Yes, it was time for a new profile photo.

 

Minor lateral update. Re-did the hold ballast rocks. Don't know what I was thinking before. These may be a bit too big as well, but certainly

more to scale. Satisfied with this bit.

Now waiting for the lights and will start the next floor. I intend on using pear wood that I received from 

Cornwall Model Boats (PS: great vender) as many of you already know. Here are a couple of updated shots.

Cheers,

 

 

 

[popeye the sailor]

those rocks are a big improvement.......OK just as they are     they don't have a shine......and if you went smaller,  you might as well use pebbles.  they are a nice colorful mix....the ones at Home Depot are likely all one color.   ...and you've decided to turn it up yet another notch........bravo!   lighting is always nice......kinda dumb in that area myself.  I'll look into one of those links  thanks for posting them.   wonderful progress   

Edited May 3, 2018 by popeye the sailor

[Baker]

Thanks michael 

These rocks are indeed much better.

 

Actually

I am very curious about the further finishing of your decks.
To get ideas for the finishing of the decks in my G.H. .

[md1400cs]

Patrick,

 

If you are asking about artificial sealers that are typically used to protect wood, I have never used any.

My Vasa is also entirely unprotected in that regard. Subjectively speaking I don't care for the look of woods after sealers have been added.

I do know that they should, in fact, be used.

 

For me, the exception would be using an oil such as Wacto. That I did apply on my old Santa Maria - still looks the same after all these years.

I had thought of that for the Vasa's hull but decided not to.

 

Here are a couple of recent photos of the SM.

 

 

 

 

[federicoaa]

Hi,

 

I must say I felt inspired by your build. So inspired in fact that I ended up doing something similar hehe

Only difference is that for the fittings I did not use metal, but cardboard painted with metallic paints

 

By the way, do you intend keeping the cannons in their original color?

All the cannons I've seen in real life are iron, the ones in the kit seems like brass

 

I had a spare cannon from another build I decided to play around.

Sorry the pic is a bit out of focus, I can't get the focus right on such small things with the cellphone

Edited May 5, 2018 by federicoaa

[md1400cs]

federicoaa,

 

Nice detail. Glad that you could make use of this detail. A detail that I also borrowed from an other build log.

 

Regarding the canons, yes they will be air-brushed black. I will not use the kit supplied issues instead using the same ones

that I used in my previous Vasa build. I will also hand make the carriages. The kit provided metal one piece bits - I prefer to

make these up. 

 

 

here are a few shots of how they should look once done - from the Vasa. Thanks for dropping by much appreciated.

 

[federicoaa]

How did you make the logo in the cannons?

[md1400cs]

federico,

Canons with emblems can be bought from most ship model supply companies. They come in several sizes as well.

 1) paint black (air brush allows for a super smooth flat cover)

 2) Using a flat blade to scape off the paint from the emblem

 3) add a clear coat after just to the emblem – helps to keep the brass brighter.

 Here is a link to the store from which I bought these canons;

 

https://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/cgi-bin/sh000001.pl?WD=a4169&PN=4169-Decorative-Cannon-Barrel-36mm-A4169%2ehtml#SID=1552 

 

PS: All members here at MSW are super helpful – any questions will always be answered.

 

These canons do not have the correct emblem for the last ship I built (that's for sure)

and not for this one that I am building now. Almost nobody will ever know the difference - 

well some here would haha

In any case it does make for nice added details. Hope this helps.

 

 

 

[md1400cs]

Hi Mates,

 

FYI: The LED 3V lights and switch arrived. YES these will be perfect.The LED is so tiny that it will, in scale seem, like a candle.

Waiting of the silicone 3mm tubing so that I can build the lanterns. 

The wires are also so tiny that I think that I can manage to actually install the lights through the bottom of the lanterns, add a bit of white paint to represent the 

candle wax within the lantern housing, easily hiding the wires from view - I think (:-)

Very happy with this light supplier!!  Will update soon--

 

 

 

[popeye the sailor]

look'in good Michael   

[md1400cs]

Hi Mates,

 

Thanks so much for the likes, and comments always so appreciated.

 

First attempt with lights done. Well the first one in any case. I very much like the look of these super tiny yellow LED's

 

Parts: toothpick, silicone tubing, black pinstripe tape. Here are some updated shots.

 

The next lights will all attach to the side walls so will need to make tops that will attach with hooks. This first lantern will hardly be  viisible

so just attached it directly to that beam.

 

[Ferit]

Realistic superior work...

[BLACK VIKING]

Wow super job on the lantern . I hadn't thought of using tape brilliant idea. Number one son is up this weekend and he is a wizard at electrickry unlike me so he can show me how to wire up the leds 

Martyn

[NMBROOK]

Who would of thought a bit of silicon,toothpick and tape could look so effective! Excellent Michael

Kind Regards

Nigel

[popeye the sailor]

awesome job on the lantern!   

[EJ_L]

Awesome lantern! Well done indeed!

 

[BLACK VIKING]

Hi Michael do you know the current draw of the LEDs you are using 😳

Martyn

[md1400cs]

Mates thank for the super nice comments!

 

Martyn, See my post one above the last one - 3V using a button battery all lights will hook up to the on/off bat. holder.

[BLACK VIKING]

Cheers mate   looking forward to the next update 

Martyn

[md1400cs]

Martyn,

 

A bit more  - from this vender you can order exactly what you need with the voltage resistors pre-installed. They work right out of the box, no need to fiddle

with adding resistors. lights wires have two colors red and green.

Once all of your lights are installed, grab all of the red wires and spool them together to make a single red bundle. Do the same for the green wires.

Then just connect the bundled red wires to the red wire on the battery pack, then same for other side. click "on" there you go lights on everywhere.

 

PS: This very simple wiring is the same for all battery packs. Just be sure that you order the lights that are the correct voltage for the battery and

holder you plan on using. AAs' 9V etc. According to the order I placed this 3V button battery will power up to 10 LEDs of the type I bought.

Hope this helps

 

PS: there are two LED wire lengths available. I got the 8" had not thought about the resistor toward the end of the wire. I don't know the size of your cross-section.

You might want to order longer wires (12" If I remember correctly)

 

https://www.modeltrainsoftware.com/smd-chip-leds.html