moreplovac Posted March 8, 2019 Author #271 Posted March 8, 2019 (edited) Work on ratlines continues... For a change from ratlines, i cleaned up the anchors with sandpapers and files and start preparing a wooden anchor stocks from scratch. The kit supplied anchor stocks will not be used... Happy modeling. Edited March 8, 2019 by moreplovac Overworked724, lmagna and GrandpaPhil 3 Quote
jct Posted March 15, 2019 #272 Posted March 15, 2019 looks outstanding Overworked724 1 Quote Thx J In process On Hold US Brig Niagara Model Shipways Pinta ...Shipyard, card build; In the Queue HMS Endeavor...Corel; Completed builds Agilis...Steingraeber, Dual build with Popeye USS Hannah...scratch build to something between 1/72 ish and 1/60 ish scale Corel's...Half Moon; USN Picket Boat #1...Model Shipways; Model shipways...18th Century longboat.. Harriet Lane...Model Shipways Henry J Gasser Keeling-and-Clayton-mustang-funny-car Green Elephant Funny car Curtiss Sparrowhawk
moreplovac Posted March 16, 2019 Author #273 Posted March 16, 2019 21 hours ago, jct said: looks outstanding Thanks J.. Quote
moreplovac Posted March 16, 2019 Author #274 Posted March 16, 2019 For a change, started to work on anchors; a layer of flat black was applied. The anchors stocks is next.. The continue with ratlines. It is slow but very rewarding work... It appears that i squeezed the 5 or 6th line a bit more than necessary so i have to fix it.. Happy modeling.. lmagna and GrandpaPhil 2 Quote
moreplovac Posted March 17, 2019 Author #275 Posted March 17, 2019 Climbing the ratlines.... This is the way how i made a clove hitch... The second set of ratlines completed... and the sailor' view.. To break a bit from a rigging i continue work on anchors.. I discarded anchor stocks that were provided in the kit and made one from the piece of bass strip. The dimensions were taken from the plan and transferred to the strip wit h a help of scotch tape.... Two stocks were made and with file and knife carved to the correct shape. I made the stock from one piece; practicum uses two stocks and glue them together. I use one piece of wood per anchor. After carving and sanding i drill a hole in the center (1.5mm) and shape it further with a file. The final shaping was done when anchors were glued to the stocks. Next will be adding a electric tape strips to simulate iron band, a layer of golden oak stain and layer of varnish, ring for an anchor, anchor buoy .... Happy modeling.. mcpwilk, Overworked724, lmagna and 1 other 4 Quote
moreplovac Posted March 18, 2019 Author #276 Posted March 18, 2019 The iron bands were simulated with black electrical tape. The tape was also secured with touch of glue around the place were it will be wrapped up.. The both anchors were dipped (stock down) to the golden oak stain, left with a stain for few seconds and extra stain was wiped out with bounty.. The ring for each anchor was made from 0.3mm black wire. The ring diameter is app 3.2mm. The rings were cut, ends were filled to provide good seating between two ends of a ring. Then a small amount of glue was applied to the ends and positioned in the way that cut ends were in the anchor, not visible from outside. The anchors will be mounted on the ship with anchor buoys. As from practicum: "Ships similar to the Sultana would certainly have had them. There were strict laws and codes that mandated the use of anchor buoys while in a harbor or port. They weren’t used for the Sultana’s benefit. They were used so the other ships wouldn’t get damaged by the anchor and cable. Stiff penalties were brought against a ship’s crew when they failed to use a buoy". The kit doesn’t come with buoys so i decided to follow practicum and make them from sculpey. It was a bit hard to find out correct size but i looked at the buoys from practicum and trying to get a feeling for a size. The sculpey was cut in approximate same size loafs and shaped. The quick bake (130 degrees C for 15min) and they are ready for a next stage.. I made few extras and will pick the best looking pair.. Happy modeling. GrandpaPhil, Sea Hoss and lmagna 3 Quote
lmagna Posted March 18, 2019 #277 Posted March 18, 2019 Heck I could have saved you a lot of trouble. I have a pill that I have to take that looks exactly like that. Have a ton of them in fact! Great looking anchors. I especially like the ring, turned out quite nice. Quote Lou Build logs: Colonial sloop Providence 1/48th scale kit bashed from AL Independence Currant builds: Constructo Brigantine Sentinel (Union) (On hold) Minicraft 1/350 Titanic (For the Admiral) 1/350 Heavy Cruiser USS Houston (Resin) Currant research/scratchbuild: Schooner USS Lanikai/Hermes Non ship build log: 1/35th UH-1H Huey
moreplovac Posted March 18, 2019 Author #278 Posted March 18, 2019 15 hours ago, lmagna said: Heck I could have saved you a lot of trouble. I have a pill that I have to take that looks exactly like that. Have a ton of them in fact! Great looking anchors. I especially like the ring, turned out quite nice. I was contemplating of getting some Advil or similar but don't think it will hold the paint that well.. 🙂 Thanks lmagna 1 Quote
lmagna Posted March 19, 2019 #279 Posted March 19, 2019 3 hours ago, moreplovac said: don't think it will hold the paint that well. Yeah there is that. Oh well just consider where the idea came from! Quote Lou Build logs: Colonial sloop Providence 1/48th scale kit bashed from AL Independence Currant builds: Constructo Brigantine Sentinel (Union) (On hold) Minicraft 1/350 Titanic (For the Admiral) 1/350 Heavy Cruiser USS Houston (Resin) Currant research/scratchbuild: Schooner USS Lanikai/Hermes Non ship build log: 1/35th UH-1H Huey
moreplovac Posted March 24, 2019 Author #280 Posted March 24, 2019 (edited) The work on buoys continue... The buoys were not included in the kit so i am following practicum when it comes to roping the buoys... First, i made 4 eye bolts from 0.3 mm wire, by twisting them around a small nail.. Two buoys were chosen from the pile of six. The small hole was drilled on both ends of each buoy and eye bolts were inserted. The small amount of glue was put in the hole before. The eye bolts were not inserted to the end, app 2mm reminded between buoys and eye bolts. The eye bolts were inserted... this pictures shows eye bolts fully inserted just to test the fittings.. The harness for each buoys were made, two per each buoy. Three lines were knotted along the main, rigging line. It took a little time to space the lines properly. I used small template that helped a bit. Four sets of harness were made and set aside. The buoys were painted in flat white, not paying to much attention that color covers whole buoy. Did not want to have brand-new buoy effect... The harness was wrapped around the buoy and fixed with a small amount of glue. The three knotted strands are seized at the eye bolt; here those 2mm are coming into play.. The second harness was also mounted making sure that space between strands is as close as equal possible. This time the strands are going above the first set of harness and seized in the same manner as the first one. Both completed.. Another rigging line was seized on one side of the buoy. This line will be tied to the anchor. With assistance from helping hands, the work was easy to complete. This is the way how it will be tied to the anchor. Happy modeling. Edited March 24, 2019 by moreplovac russ, tkay11, GrandpaPhil and 2 others 5 Quote
moreplovac Posted March 25, 2019 Author #281 Posted March 25, 2019 (edited) The buoy line was tied up on each anchor... A bit of a glue was put on three spots were seizing will be completed and two runs around the anchor was quite enough to keep the buoy line in place.. and to look interesting.. More work on buoys will come shortly... Then i started to do more ratlines.. Was contemplating how to make the spacing between ratlines as equal as possible and come up with this plan/idea. Not sure how it will be working but until i get something more useful i will try with this technique. The space between the ratlines was transferred on piece of wood, then individual ratlines were fixed with a small piece of scotch tape on each mark. This should provide fairly equal spacing for the ratlines. Then this template was fixed on the ship with a help of a small clamp. So when i work on one line, the rest of lines is dragged on the back of this white background so it is not in the way. It appears to be working fine for now... Then each knot was fixed with a small amount of glue and after the glue is dried, the extra line was cut with sharp cutter. For this purpose i find it more useful to use wire cutter (a good one) instead of using scissors or nail clipper. Happy modeling. Edited March 25, 2019 by moreplovac lmagna, GrandpaPhil and Sea Hoss 3 Quote
moreplovac Posted April 1, 2019 Author #282 Posted April 1, 2019 As i always looking for some improvement in building process and tools used, i was thinking of getting some sort of template to have making of ratlines a bit more unified and easier. The challenge with helping tools i used so far is that the piece of wood with markings was always standing straight up and not following rigging angle. This has the result that wood "moves away" from the rigging and makes ratline making process a bit difficult and not always with the same distance between two ratlines. So my next invention was based on this: the idea is to have a top edge of the office foder presenting a place where ratlines needs to be mounted and top edge of wood piece is matching the previous ratline. The purpose of a small cloth pin is to keep the ratline rope fixed so the first knot will not be loose... The sandwich was made, the edge were sanded to have a smooth edge and pin was glued to the edge. The distance between two ratlines is 5mm. The white color of a folder provide adequate contrast for the black ratline so it was visible enough and easy to mount... Then this little helper was positioned on the ridging and fixed with another (normal size) cloth pin. The third set of ratlines is completed now with a help of this tool. These two pieces of toothpick were put in place just to divide two ringing lines so i can actually maneuver ratlines around the ridging ropes. The top of the toothpick were sanded (shape showed below) to correct spacing, cut to length of 15mm and put in between second and third ridging ropes. Happy modeling.. Overworked724, GrandpaPhil, yvesvidal and 2 others 5 Quote
Overworked724 Posted April 1, 2019 #283 Posted April 1, 2019 (edited) Very nice jig! 👍🏽 Edited April 1, 2019 by Overworked724 Quote ---------------------------------------------------- “Work like a Captain....Play like a Pirate!” — Every Ship Modeler...everywhere.
moreplovac Posted April 3, 2019 Author #284 Posted April 3, 2019 On 4/1/2019 at 5:10 AM, Overworked724 said: Very nice jig! 👍🏽 Thanks Patrick. Quote
moreplovac Posted April 7, 2019 Author #285 Posted April 7, 2019 The ratlines work continues. Last part.. No much to report at this moment... Ratlines appears to be much cleaner and unified when using a new jig.. And to protect it from the element, while waiting for a next ratlines round... Happy modeling. Overworked724, GrandpaPhil and lmagna 3 Quote
moreplovac Posted April 15, 2019 Author #286 Posted April 15, 2019 ... and the last ratline... So, this time consuming but very interesting task has been completed. Overall happy with the result but i can see the difference between start and end job of adding ratlines.. Plenty of lessons learned and room for improvements. I am keeping a building notes so will not forget all things that come to mind while working on this nice model.. Moving forward... i have start cleaning up 16 kit provided cleats.. Happy modeling. GrandpaPhil, lmagna and Overworked724 3 Quote
moreplovac Posted April 17, 2019 Author #287 Posted April 17, 2019 The cleats were modified in order to fit the scale of the ship. Out of the box they were looking a bit oversized... Each cleat was cleaned and filled to fit properly on the line. They were mounted on the inside of each shroud as per kit plan. They were glued first and then, when glue was dried, lashed with a black rigging line, in size .008. The lashing was tied around the center of each cleat. Just simple two knots were enough to fix the cleats to the shroud.. The coat of flat black will be applied to each cleat once all are mounted and lashed. During this process i noticed few ratlines that were become loose.. Not enough glue was applied to knots. so i decided to replace them. Four removed ratlines... and four replaced ratlines. Happy modeling. lmagna and GrandpaPhil 2 Quote
lmagna Posted April 17, 2019 #288 Posted April 17, 2019 Great work and another milestone reached! Quote Lou Build logs: Colonial sloop Providence 1/48th scale kit bashed from AL Independence Currant builds: Constructo Brigantine Sentinel (Union) (On hold) Minicraft 1/350 Titanic (For the Admiral) 1/350 Heavy Cruiser USS Houston (Resin) Currant research/scratchbuild: Schooner USS Lanikai/Hermes Non ship build log: 1/35th UH-1H Huey
moreplovac Posted April 18, 2019 Author #289 Posted April 18, 2019 On 4/17/2019 at 7:19 AM, lmagna said: Great work and another milestone reached! Thanks Lou, appreciated. Mental note to myself to make sure ratlines are tightly knotted and frozen with a touch of glue so they will not open with time.. lmagna 1 Quote
moreplovac Posted April 18, 2019 Author #290 Posted April 18, 2019 Cleats were installed and painted flat black. Mental note to myself: don't follow practicum to the letter and paint cleats before mounting them... Much easier.... Next, rigging the stays.. I dont have enough black rigging lines so i will try to color some dark brown (or tan) lines instead of buying new set of lines. Happy modeling. lmagna and GrandpaPhil 2 Quote
moreplovac Posted April 20, 2019 Author #291 Posted April 20, 2019 (edited) The work on standing rigging has begun. Following practicum i will start by rigging the forestay, inner jibstay, outer jibstay and fore topmast stay. The forestay will be rigged using a mouse. Apparently this is how schooners in those days were rigged, according to Practicum some other books referenced in it. I was able to dig up some left over black rigging line in correct size i will be using it for this work. The rigging line is in 0.7mm (.028), and apparently this is the heaviest rigging line used on Sultana, with exception of the anchor cables. This rigging will be only one where a mouse is used. The construction started by seizing a loop. It is a bit of a challenge to have it done nicely since this is very tiny loop.. The loop is done, and the mouse position was marked with a piece of a tape... With a help of super glue i was made a pear shaped mouse by coiling sewing thread around the stay... And completed assembly.. - I made a mistake, the same one as mentioned in practicum so need to find a way to correct the mouse, this is not correct way of positioning the mouse.. The wider part should be further from the loop, not closer. Testing on the ship.. Need to be tied up a bit more... So, now to the rigging of the forestay. One more heart was made and seized on the end of the rigging line. The correct length was marked with a scotch tape and seizing done with sewing rope... And testing with some lineyards... It is already too late, finishing it up tomorrow.. Happy modeling. Edited April 21, 2019 by moreplovac GrandpaPhil, Sea Hoss and Overworked724 3 Quote
Overworked724 Posted April 20, 2019 #292 Posted April 20, 2019 Just curious. You may wish to check the mouse on the stay is the correct orientation. In Chuck’s practicum, he rigged his backwards as well but noticed too late. I believe yours is rigged in the reverse orientation. The loop should fit around the narrow ‘nose’ of the mouse as in your figure. Nice work on the stays, though! Quote ---------------------------------------------------- “Work like a Captain....Play like a Pirate!” — Every Ship Modeler...everywhere.
Sea Hoss Posted April 20, 2019 #293 Posted April 20, 2019 Great job on this model! I may consider doing it also...It is a fine looking ship! Overworked724 1 Quote Current: Emma C. Berry Lobster Smack-Model Shipways-1:32-1866 Back on the shelf: USS Essex- MS- "Old Yellow Box" Solid Hull Wall Hanger (Half Hull) Completed: 18th Century Armed Longboat-MS 1/24 USN Picket Boat-MS 1864 1/24 US Brig Syren by Sea Hoss- Model Shipways-1803 18th Century Carronade/Ship Section Mayflower-Pilgrims Pride by Sea Hoss-Model Shipways-1620 18th Century Long Boat by Sea Hoss-Model Shipways USS Constitution by Sea Hoss-Revel-Plastic
moreplovac Posted April 21, 2019 Author #294 Posted April 21, 2019 22 hours ago, Overworked724 said: Just curious. You may wish to check the mouse on the stay is the correct orientation. In Chuck’s practicum, he rigged his backwards as well but noticed too late. I believe yours is rigged in the reverse orientation. The loop should fit around the narrow ‘nose’ of the mouse as in your figure. Nice work on the stays, though! Yes you are right, i should have done a bit more research 😞 I will try to correct it, i might have a bit more extra room on the line... Cheers lmagna 1 Quote
moreplovac Posted April 21, 2019 Author #295 Posted April 21, 2019 19 hours ago, Sea Hoss said: Great job on this model! I may consider doing it also...It is a fine looking ship! Thanks, Yes, it is very nice little model, a bit too little for my hands 🙂 but overall very nice project. Just do lot of custom made parts and it will be enjoyable journey.. lmagna and Overworked724 2 Quote
moreplovac Posted April 21, 2019 Author #296 Posted April 21, 2019 Inner jibstay is next, a new heart was made and seized on the black 0.45mm rigging line that will be used for outer jibstay. Then, to make a lineyard in the same length as fore stay, i made a small template out of a wire... This will keep the distance until i finish up seizing a top part of the line.. and completed... Then i drilled a hole in the jib for a outer jibstay rigging... The outer jibstay 0.45mm will be was seized around the trestle tree. The opposite end will run thru a traveller, which i made out of a 0.3mm black wire.. The loop was soldered and soldering part filled... Then the whole traveller was dipped into flat black paint and left to dry. Soldering is done with a torch and solder-it paste.. Not the expert in soldering but this combo works perfectly well.. Finally a small piece of sewing thread was tied around the top of the traveller to finish it up. Single block was seized on one end of outer jibstay .. ..which ended up today' activity. Happy modeling. lmagna 1 Quote
Overworked724 Posted April 21, 2019 #297 Posted April 21, 2019 3 hours ago, moreplovac said: Yes you are right, i should have done a bit more research 😞 I will try to correct it, i might have a bit more extra room on the line... Cheers Actually, you did the same thing I did. I reversed it, then realized after I’d set it on the model! Then, I removed it, remade the mouse, but forgot to thread the line before attaching the closed heart at the other end! So, I ended up doing this 3x! That’s the only reason I know! But in truth, I think it looks great and would just move on! You are doing great! Enjoying your (our?) Sultana build! lmagna 1 Quote ---------------------------------------------------- “Work like a Captain....Play like a Pirate!” — Every Ship Modeler...everywhere.
moreplovac Posted April 22, 2019 Author #298 Posted April 22, 2019 1 hour ago, Overworked724 said: Actually, you did the same thing I did. I reversed it, then realized after I’d set it on the model! Then, I removed it, remade the mouse, but forgot to thread the line before attaching the closed heart at the other end! So, I ended up doing this 3x! That’s the only reason I know! But in truth, I think it looks great and would just move on! You are doing great! Enjoying your (our?) Sultana build! I will try to correct it but will not remove all of rigging line. Wish i found this topic a bi earlier: lmagna 1 Quote
moreplovac Posted April 22, 2019 Author #299 Posted April 22, 2019 Outer jibstay rigging was next.. first i have attached a single block to the hook... painted the hook in flat black paint.. .. and mounted on the ship. Traveller was mounted next, fixed with a drop of a glue to proper position. Must say that traveller' position on kit plan and on Practicum do not match so i decided to drop it somewhere in between, where it made sense in my opinion. The outer jibstay line was pushed thru the jibstay and fixed with a scotch tape.. Prep for seizing... And seizing completed.. Now the other side.. Interesting view of all kind of roping ... And the whole ship so far... Happy modeling. lmagna 1 Quote
moreplovac Posted May 8, 2019 Author #300 Posted May 8, 2019 A bit more of rigging has been completed... Fore topmast stay.... main topmast stay and main stay... Following Chuck' practicum the bullseye were simulated. The rigging line going thru a block... tightening the line with a help of a small home-made weight... Lanyards for the stays on each side of a mast... And the final product... Happy modeling.. lmagna 1 Quote
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