HM Brig Supply by Jobbie - Caldercraft - Scale 1:64

[Jobbie]

That was straight forward. Happy with that fit now. 

 

The instructions state “It is also recommended that you bevel the edges of the front and rear bulkheads as well as the plank termination patterns before gluing.” Yeah, nah. I’ll choose to wait until the skeleton’s assembled, glued and dried before profiling the hull. 

[Jobbie]

You can see in this photo that the bulkheads extend lower than the rebate. I intend to sand the bulkheads back so they finish at the rebate line. I want the planking at the bottom to be level with the false keel, and the thickness of the planking (lower right) is the depth of the rebate. 

[Jobbie]

I used the dry-fitted quarter-deck to align the framing at the stern (parts 17, 18 & 19) before gluing with Aquadhere (PVA).

[Jobbie]

The completed frame before making fillers out of balsa.

[Jobbie]

I’m using 12mm square balsa as bow contour fillers. Time will tell whether this is a stupid decision or not. I’ll let the Aquadhere dry overnight. 

[robdurant]

Looking great!

 

I don't think you can go far wrong with balsa fillers. I find it so helpful to give an idea of the contours of the hull when I'm fairing the bulkheads, and it helps with adhesion for the first planking where the hull has the greatest curves, too.

 

The other thing I do is mark the edge of the bulkhead with a sharpie - that way when I'm fairing if the black disappears completely, I know I've started to reduce the overall shape of the bulkhead. Hope that makes sense. You can see the black line left along the sternmost edge of the forward bulkheads in the photo below...

[Dan Vadas]

Doing well Jobbie . I find Selley's Aquadhere to be a little on the thin side. I prefer Fullers Maxbond - it's about twice as thick and dries faster as well. It's available at Bunnies.

 

NOTE - Fullers make two products with the same name (confusing ). One is a contact adhesive, the other a PVA glue. I'm referring to the PVA.

 

Cheers, Danny

[Jobbie]

It’s starting to take shape. 

[Jobbie]

I’ve hit a bit of a snag. Bulkhead #10 doesn’t allow me a smooth curve to the stern. I’ll need to pad it out a bit to avoid a dip in the hull. 

[Johnnyreg]

Wow that’s a big gap. I’m sure it isn’t but it almost look like the wrong bulkhead. If that is a kit error then that is inexcusable.

[Dan Vadas]

Easily fixed - just glue a bit (or bits) of scrap planking timber to the edge of the bulkhead and re-sand it to shape .

 

Danny

[Jobbie]

That’s what’s happening- I’m using a strip of balsa. Waiting for the glue to dry. 

[Thunder]

Hi, I built this model many moons ago and my bulkhead 10 was exactly the same. I did mention it on past logs on here in the past and if you look at some other builds you can see where, in some builds, it has not been corrected. I am surprised that Jotika have never corrected this. I worked out that they took there measurements straight from the admiralty plans but then spaced the position of that bulkhead differently. I did what you are doinjg now which worked out fine.

[Jobbie]

Thanks for the insight. It’s somewhat pleasing to know it’s not just me. I’ll email JoTiKa tomorrow with these photos and hope they amend the program. Wouldn’t take much. 

 

She’s all good now. 

[Jobbie]

So, back to the rest of the profile...I’ve placed the forecastle deck on the frame and the bow contour differs from the rounded bow I’ve shaped. What say you? Should I make the deck match the bow, or make the bow match the deck?

[lmagna]

Put me down for the bow matching the deck as well.

[Dan Vadas]

Neither. It should be a smooth round curve, the deck seems a bit flat in the 1st section. Your fillers definitely have too much of a bulge.

 

Danny

[Thunder]

I agree with Danny. Did this kit have pre-shaped bulwark rails? if so you can use these as a former to check. 

[Thunder]

just checked your parts and yes there is pre curved bulwark capping sections for the bows that could be used as formers to give you an idea of the bow shape.

 

 

Edited April 30, 2018 by Thunder

[Jobbie]

Thanks very much for the feedback. 

[Jobbie]

The curvature or the bulwark capping matches the curvature of the deck sheet. 

[Jobbie]

Getting there...

[Dan Vadas]

The deck sheet may not match the capping rail perfectly either. Use the rail to get your final shape - don't forget to allow for the thickness of the planking.

 

Danny

[Jobbie]

There are a couple of areas on the ship where holes in gratings, hatches and around the upper sternpost area where the plywood frame may be visible on the completed model. To help prevent this, I’ve employed one of my daughters to apply a bit of black craft paint to those spots. It doesn’t have to be neat, as it will all be quite dark in there later. Now the deck is ready to be permantly fixed in place. 

Edited May 6, 2018 by Jobbie

[Jobbie]

[Jobbie]

The decks are now securely glued in place and their holding pins removed. 

[Jobbie]

My attention is now drawn to the transom. 

The instructions read “Before progressing with the first planking, it will be of benefit to temporarily position the stern fascia (part 51) & stern counter pattern(73). Using plan sheet 1 for reference, start by positioning the stern facia across the stern pattern edges (17 & 18), such that the lower edge of the facia terminates at the change of angle of the stern extensions (The point at which the straight after-edge changes angle becoming a curve which runs into the after face of of bulkhead 11).

[Jobbie]

“With the stern fascia temporally fitted, the stern counter pattern can also be temporarily positioned.”

 

The stern fascia and counter haven’t been soaked to obtain their nessesary curves yet, but I just need their width at this point. So a simple clamp will do.

 

“The stern counter pattern should be fitted across the curved edges of the stern extensions so that its upper edge is flush against the lower edge of the stern facia previously fitted.”......”At the stern, the planks will run beyond bulkhead 11 and terminate either at the stern fascia & counter pattern or, as you progress down the hull, against the 5mm keel. When you are happy with the termination point of these planks, the stern fascia & pattern can be removed. In this way the planking can be allied to extend beyond the termination point, allowing you to neatly trim them back together when the facia & counter are refitted with the planking completed.”

 

I want to trim the horizontal formers (parts 19) back the width of the first planking (1.5mm).

[Jobbie]

I’ve champhered the top edge of the counter-piece. As this stern counter will be covered with a walnut “second” planking later, I’ve trimmed the horizontal former back slightly less than the total thickness of the first layer limewood plus second layer walnut. I could always sand down later. 

I reckon this is close enough for now. 

 

[Jobbie]

I’m also thinking of adding some more balsa contour fillers on the outside faces of the stern pattern edges. They may not be needed, but I’m concerned about fixing the planking at the rear edge of the hull.