Emma C Berry by yvesvidal - Model Shipways - 1/32

[gjdale]

Very nice work Yves, she’s looking great!

[yvesvidal]

Next on our construction bench, is the windlass. This equipment is small and mostly used to lift the anchor or secure the boat on a mooring. The Windlass was manually activated as the vessel does not have any source of energy (besides the Wind).

 

The drum is supported by two bitts morticed into the king plank: 

These bitts are made of yellow pine 2.25 inch thick. They stand above 25" above the deck and are made up of three parts bolted together. In the kit, only two parts are used, which is a good idea and make it sturdier. The top of the bitts are capped with a lead sheet, to prevent the water and rain from entering the end grain. Below are a few more drawings from the Restoration book: 

 

 

The final drawing gives an idea of how the windlass mechanism was actuated: 

 

Two levers made of wood, were inserted on each side of that central piece, resting on the bowsprit mortice.

 

 

The drum is provided in cast pewter metal and is not too bad for a Model Shipways molding (they have a bad reputation). The 12 tiny pieces of wood used to grab the ropes and lines, were totally unusable as they disintegrated when I removed them from their sprue (see wood pile below). I fabricated 12 new teeth and sanded them in a realistic way. Some staining was then performed: 

 

 

Yves

Edited December 19, 2020 by yvesvidal

[yvesvidal]

The windlass is now finished. To simulate the lead sheet on top of the vertical mortices, I have used aluminum foil: 

 

 

It is a little bit bright, but with some dirty clear coat, it should be better.

 

 

 

Still waiting for these Dry Transfers, and this is preventing me from assembling the bowsprit and finishing the hull.

 

Yves

[mek]

Perfect!

Mike

[DocBlake]

Great progress.  A fine model, very well done!

[Sea Hoss]

Nice progress, I'm happily following along behind you with my ECB.

[yvesvidal]

1 hour ago, Sea Hoss said:

Nice progress, I'm happily following along behind you with my ECB.

That is great. I noticed on the forum, a regain of interest for the Emma C Berry recently and it is nice to see multiple Build Logs, running at the same time.

 

Yves

[yvesvidal]

The windlass is now finished. The aluminum foil was darkened with Tamiya Smoke and covered with a generous amount of flat clear. I have also added two wooden levers to actuate the windlass: 

 

 

Since the Dry Transfers are still stuck with USPS, somewhere in the USA, I am going to work on the stern mooring bitts, on each side of the tiller.

 

Yves

[yvesvidal]

Stern mooring bitts are now completed.

 

The mooring bitts have evolved on the Emma C. Berry and have been changed a few times. The original bitts were located on each side of the wheel house, enclosing the rudder mechanism. Later on, that little housing was removed, the wheel discarded and replaced by a tiller. The bitts were later on removed from the deck, during the latest renovation and installed on each side of the bulwarks. I have decided to represent the vessel, with the tiller and still the old mooring bitts, on each side of the rudder mechanism.

 

Looking at the Restoration Book, the mooring bitts are depicted in the following way: 

 

 

Inside the hull, a very strong base is provided. Unfortunately for me, with a fully planked deck, it is not possible to depict the base. It would not be visible anyway.

 

 

So, armed with a 2.5 mm bit and a square file, we reluctantly drill through the deck: 

 

 

The openings are done with a small square file and the bitts fabricated with square wood. They insert with a good amount of resistance and are long enough to touch the bottom of the hull: 

 

 

The top is covered with our fake lead, a coat of smoke and a coat of matte clear coat to finish the bitts: 

 

 

Even though the picture cannot reveal the details, the bitts are actually resting against the hull: 

 

 

Et voila. That pretty much concludes what I can do on the hull, while waiting for these @#$%^& Dry Transfers.

 

 

Yves

[gjdale]

Nicely done Yves.

[yvesvidal]

Finally, the Dry Transfers were received and the hull has been completed. The bowsprit can be fully disassembled for future maintenance or transportation. I will try to do the same with the main mast and rigging.

 

A few pictures: 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I have also procured a nice board made of bamboo plywood (no risk of warping with that stuff), which is very light and extremely sturdy. With a dimension of 30 x 8 inches, it will give me a nice area to build a diorama representing the ship undergoing some restoration.

 

Happy Holidays to all the members of the Model Ship World forum.

 

Yves

[BobG]

Look great, Yves!

[DocBlake]

Looks great!

[gjdale]

Nice!

[Sea Hoss]

nice work!

[G.L.]

Indeed very nice work Yves.

How did you do the lettering of the ships' name?

[yvesvidal]

1 hour ago, G.L. said:

Indeed very nice work Yves.

How did you do the lettering of the ships' name?

Thank you for the compliments.

 

The lettering.... I used Dry Transfers as the kit does not provide any decals or templates. I went with the Roman font Gold characters from Woodland Scenic MG703. 

 

 

The characters come is various sizes which makes it handy. Note that you will need two sets because of the scarcity of the letter "M" on one sheet.

 

The stern marking was done on a piece of white paper painted black with gesso (like the rest of the hull). That piece of paper is carefully cut following the edges of the large oval shape provided in the kit. Basically, the paper edges will be hidden underneath the wood frame, around the name. It is difficult to dry-transfer/rub characters on the hull directly and it is much easier on a piece of paper on an horizontal table. The "bubble" of paper is then glued on the stern and the wood framing is placed on top with four tiny dots of CA glue to hold it.

 

For the bow markings, I used a small piece of wood, painted black; then I dry-transfered the characters and finally glued the small piece of wood to the hull. It is not entirely prototypical but I could not find a way to place the transfers on the finished hull.

 

Yves 

[G.L.]

53 minutes ago, yvesvidal said:

Thank you for the compliments.

 

The lettering.... I used Dry Transfers as the kit does not provide any decals or templates. I went with the Roman font Gold characters from Woodland Scenic MG703. 

 

 

The characters come is various sizes which makes it handy. Note that you will need two sets because of the scarcity of the letter "M" on one sheet.

 

The stern marking was done on a piece of white paper painted black with gesso (like the rest of the hull). That piece of paper is carefully cut following the edges of the large oval shape provided in the kit. Basically, the paper edges will be hidden underneath the wood frame, around the name. It is difficult to dry-transfer/rub characters on the hull directly and it is much easier on a piece of paper on an horizontal table. The "bubble" of paper is then glued on the stern and the wood framing is placed on top with four tiny dots of CA glue to hold it.

 

For the bow markings, I used a small piece of wood, painted black; then I dry-transfered the characters and finally glued the small piece of wood to the hull. It is not entirely prototypical but I could not find a way to place the transfers on the finished hull.

 

Yves 

Thank you very much for the information, Yves.

[Ras Ambrioso]

This will be my first post. I am amazed at the amount of detail by yvesvidal on the inside. I am just finishing another Emma but I did not detail the interior. I am 84 years old and my hand and eyes are not as sharp as they used to be; but am am really pleased at the results giving room for a few boboos. Currently I am finishing the sails

[yvesvidal]

Ras, 

 

your model is beautiful. Please start a Build Log or post pictures of the finished model, in the gallery section. You are very brave to attempt the sails on such large model. I suspect you have access to a sewing machine or someone who is skilled at that trade.

 

Yves

[Ras Ambrioso]

yvesvidal,  I live in an independent living facility and there is a little old lady that is a genius with the sewing machine. The sails are now finished and rigged but, would you believe, I ran out of the 1mm rope. I actually used 10 meters of that rope. I have ordered more and are now awaiting delivery. Then, I will complete the rigging by attaching the sail to the gaff.

I have taken pictures while the building went on and I intend of publish them once I'm done. This has been probably the most difficult kit I have ever built. 

 

I will soon be starting on the Fifie

[Viggin900]

Do you have any regrets not doing the ceiling inside? I am thinking of leaving it out for the same reasons and was wondering if it makes a difference when you have it all put together looking in at this stage?

 

[yvesvidal]

17 hours ago, Viggin900 said:

Do you have any regrets not doing the ceiling inside? I am thinking of leaving it out for the same reasons and was wondering if it makes a difference when you have it all put together looking in at this stage?

 

I have absolutely no regrets. For multiple reasons: 

- I want to be able to display the inside of the vessel. Building the ceiling would detract the observer and even prevent him/her from peeking inside the hull.

- It is a lot easier to not build it.... 😉

- The renovated vessel does not have the ceiling as indicated by the booklet covering the restoration.

- With the opening in the hull and on the well (that I am representing), the ceiling would seem out of place.

- I am not sure the kit would provide enough planks to build the ceiling correctly.

 

Yves

[DocBlake]

Very nice model.  Well done!